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This jig is easy to make, easy to use and is the perfect DIY tool to make clean, precise and repeatable mortises every time. The Morley Mortiser creates mortises for loose tenons to join parts together in multiple applications and angles. Don't want to start from scratch? Pick up a flat-pack Morley Mortiser at www. Accurately set the sliding limiters to control the length of the mortise.

Locking knobs allow for precise and repeatable cuts ever time. This project contains several basic and intermediate woodworking techniques, includes multiple parts and hardware, and requires the use of some machines and hand tools. The strong and sturdy base is built to provide a safe work surface and can be clamped down to any workbench. Lay out a tenon on the end of a test rail the same thickness as your project pieces. Set the straight bit so the top of its cutting edges align with the bottom of the tenon layout line.

Back the test piece with a scrap and make a pass on each face to produce the tenon. Check the fit. If the tenon is too thick, raise the bit slightly. Remember, because you cut both faces, raise the bit by half the amount you need to remove. When the tenon fits correctly, you should be able to push it into the mortise with hand pressure or gentle taps from a mallet.

With the tenon partially seated in the mortise, there should be enough friction that, if you lift the tenoned workpiece, the mating piece comes with it. Complete the Mortise And Tenon Router Jig Plans Pdf Windows tenon by standing the rail on edge and cutting the top and bottom shoulders. A 4x4 makes a great backer block for this cut. Note that the two faces of the fence touch to prevent the workpiece from falling into a gap between them. Finally, clamp the tenoned workpiece in a vise and use a bench chisel or rasp to round the tenon's corners to match the mortise.

You're done! With an old handscrew clamp and some scraps of hardwood, you can set up your thickness planer to Skip to main content. The easiest mortise-and-tenon joint ever.

Previous X of 9 View all Next. The template's position in this slot controls the width of the dovetail. There is a 4" x 7" opening in the top for the bit to extend and make its cut. Observe all safety precautions with power tools. Wear eye protection and a dust mask, dont' wear loose clothing, and unplug power tools during set-up. Test your cuts on scrap! Each template has two slots for supplied attachment hardware that clamp it at the desired location.

The female threaded T-nuts are for installation in the plywood. The machine screws and washers go through the recessed slots in the template and thread into the T-nuts to hold the template. When the jig is completed, mark a centerline on its top and upright. Be sure this aligns with the center of the templates. The centerline is helpful in positioning the body or neck when clamping it in the jig. The jig holds the neck or body at a degree angle to the cutter bit. When the guitar body is clamped onto the jig, with the soundboard against the jig's upright, the mortise in the body's head block can be cut properly at a degree angle to the soundboard.

A shim should be placed between the neck and the face of the jig's upright, to hold the neck at this angle before clamping it to the jig. Heat-resistant tubing is supplied with the cutter bit to keep the bearing from riding up the shank.

You can also use the tubing below the bit to raise the bearing to a height that will ride against your template should this become necessary, but always take up the gap between the bearing and collet with more tubing.

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