Now is the time to start thinking about Miter Gauge Fence Plans how you want this to be shaped. This opens up a miter gauge plans guitar new realm of possibilities. On the straight shelves, I went with the gauye but strong Rockler floating shelf hardware. UHMW Products. However, the only true rule is that there are no rules! Cigar box miter gauge plans guitar are generally tuned to an open chord and a good rule yauge thumb for 3-string instruments is a I-V-I tuning, which is the root note of the chord, the 5th note, and the root again. Then use a precision engineering square between the two miter gauges to confirm they are exactly at right angles to each other.

Click on the link above to download a complete set of plans for the Mini Router Table shown in my video in pdf format. Zen of Laptop Design. Click on the title above to download a template for the profile of a laptop stand in PDF format which you can view and print on your computer. The Disappearing Lathe Plans. Click on the link above to download a set of plans for the lathe project in pdf format.

Temple Box Plans. Click on the heading above for drawings, templates, and notes about the Asian Temple Box build. Please note that I am not offering detailed, full size plans. I am showing my working sketch with dimensions, and full size templates for the feet, roof profile, and tray handle. I also show the building of the compound miter jig. This is a challenging project that requires some experience with woodworking, and a reasonably well-equipped shop. Mini Workbench Plans. Click on the link above for printable plans.

The sky is the limit here, as it is with the rest of the build. Looking for a Stratocaster-style headstock? Maybe a Gibson Les Paul? Now is the time to start thinking about how you want this to be shaped. This photo shows my walnut and maple headstock glue-up. I milled these to the same width as my neck blank app. Once the glue has set, the headstock is ready for some sketching, cutting and sanding. I wanted to keep the headstock design simple with a nice asymmetrical arc and a gentle swoop.

Using an artists French curve template , I marked out the top portion of the curve and then drew the angled lines toward the neck to form the sides of the headstock. As a tip, while you can fashion your own bandsaw fence for accurate re-sawing, I recently upgraded to a Kreg Bandsaw Fence on my bandsaw and with some tweaking I can re-saw some very thin stock.

NOTE: Be smart when you work in the shop and protect your ears, eyes, limbs and lungs. With the scarf joint complete, and the headstock trimmed and sanded, I took to shaping the radius on the neck.

From this point, I removed any remaining material with a 4-in-hand file as well as various other files and rasps. The goal is to take the radius to a point that it feels comfortable in the hand. As a note, the router is still a great means of removing the bulk of material. Once roughed in, I completed all sanding working from grit paper all the way down to grit.

I then wiped the entire neck down with a moist paper-towel to remove dust and raise the grain. Once dry, I hit it again with grit for the final sand. From here, I set the neck aside to avoid it getting bumped or banged as I worked on the fretboard. This was one of the most rewarding parts of the build and seemed much like a right of passage in the world of guitar building.

Again, the most important thing to consider with the fretboard and neck is the scale of your build. I settled on a It is crucial that the distance between each fret is accurate and that the nut-to-bridge distance is spot on for correct intonation.

As a note, tone and string tension will be affected by your scale length. Generally, cigar box guitars tend to be between Miter Gauge Plans Pdf However, the only true rule is that there are no rules!

This allowed me to input my requirements and then print a scale-version PDF that I could use as a fret template. If you want to get fancy, metal-rule fret templates are available with varying scale lengths from vendors such as CB Gitty and Stew Mac. I may spring for one of these as I get going. Next up was marking out the fret positions using the paper template.

After cutting a 45 degree angle on the nut end of the fret board, I left about 6mm from the cut for the nut slot. This marks the zero position on the fretboard from which the rest of the frets are marked.

With those in place, I positioned the fretboard into a fret-cutting jig I made. This jig is set up so that the top stop-blocks rest along the saw rail and limit the depth of the cut I make with my fret-saw. This particular fret saw cuts a 0. Having completed the fret slots, the next step was to drill my fret position markers. To do this, I simply drew a diagonal line from each corner to determine centre.

Once the glue had set, I used a flush-cut saw to trim off the excess, removed the tape and then sanded the plugs down using grit, and then a final pass with grit.

Ahhh — it feels so good! The final few steps to the fretboard before actually fretting, involved cutting the dado or slot to retain the nut. I added a 45 degree cut to slope toward my headstock and then left about 6mm to cut a 6mm slot about 3mm deep. I made this slot on the table saw after setting the blade height by simply making a few passes and staying within my scribed lines.

To finish things off, I added a 45 degree cut to the opposite end of the fretboard after determining how much overlap I wanted on the box. Bear in mind, these are purely stylistic and the sky is the limit with your own design. Lastly, I drilled out the headstock to accommodate my tuning machines. For this build, I went with 4 and staggered the top two for visual interest.

The common theme — there are no rules, so do what you like! You can buy fret-wire by the foot on Ebay, from various guitar parts suppliers, or even your local guitar shop. For my build, I chose medium fret wire from CB Gitty. Techniques vary for installation, but I chose to secure my neck on some carpet and brace the neck roughly below each fret with a carpeted block. From here, I pressed a length of fret-wire into the slot with my thumbs and then laid a block of scrap hardwood over the fret and tapped down with a small hammer.

You will hear an audible change once the fret-wire has seated fully. Once the fret-wire is in place, I trimmed it off with a pair of flush-cut snips in preparation for the radius and final filing of the frets. Simply file until your frets are flush with the edge of your fretboard. Gently run your hand alongside your filed frets. You should not feel even a hint of drag — if you do, gently file until perfectly smooth. I chose a 30 degree angle and went by feel. If you want to get more precise, which I plan to do on future builds StewMac sells fret bevelling files that will maintain a perfect angle.

Earlier, I spoke about the importance of fret-scale. One of my most reliable squares I found was not square. True up the saw cuts in one or two passes of the miter plane and you will have perfect miters every time! The miters were straight miters from the outside corner to the inside corner so it meant some acute angle cuts.

I used a layout with the miters drawn in, a protractor and lots of test cuts. I took a page from the machinists in the world and bought a NOGA magnetic gauge holder and dial indicator. The first order of business is to get your blade parallel to the fence with as much accuracy as you can muster.

I then used a precision square, which I clamped to my miter gauge head with the miter gauge at 90 degrees to blade. I then adjusted the miter gauge head until I had less than 0. Once that is complete, you can swing the miter gauge over to 45 degrees and then check the alignment again using the 45 degree angle on Miter Gauge Plans 30 the square. The Incra miter gauges help with this as they have detents for every degree of rotation and a vernier for sub-degree settings.

Should have done it years ago. Obviously, the table saw needs to be well tuned-up. I have the luxury of having two Incra miter gauges with long fences.

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