Hand Planes for Sale: Nielsen, Woodriver, Veritas Planers

Woodworking Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional and amateur woodworkers. It only takes a minute to sign up.

Connect and share knowledge hand plane large surface mini a single location that is structured and easy to search. A friend got me an electric hand held planer that he thought I could use to help clean pallet boards faster then what I was doing.

For the most part it has sat in the box. Until recently though when I started using it to clean boards edges. So I thought hand plane large surface mini giving hand plane large surface mini hand held planer a try. It worked Mini Hand Planer Lowes Google very well for getting the paint off and I checked the blades frequently to be sure they were not getting clogged or gummed they were not in any case.

I was having a huge issue keeping the work relatively flat. No matter how hard I tried the planer would be at some sort of angle and cut into wood on one side more that the other usually the side opposite of me. So I have a clean board now but it looks like ass. At least now I know that I can put it through a thickness planer with less worry. Any thoughts as to what I was doing wrong or ignoring that what I should be doing right?

It might not be the right tool for the job but it is what was available. I had it set very low so as to hand plane large surface mini burn it out and took many passes and moved onto the next section that in itself might have been the issue.

In any case I was having a huge issue keeping the work relatively flat. It sounds to me like this may be due to a combination of factors, the first is just one of technique, something that will improve with practice and experience. Hand-held planers are powerful, like belt sanders, and just like them they can run away from you if not held right.

That might be better expressed as they will run away from you if not held right! You may have been trying to take off too much on each pass which would be a critical factor if that's the case. Even at a low speed the bite into the wood will make control difficult. Unlike a belt sander, with a planer you can control the projection of the blades and because they're so effective having them set to remove the smallest amount possible equivalent to 0.

In terms of technique I think you should be trying to have the planer 'take off' at the end of each pass, like a plane lifting off from the end of a runway.

This is even good practice with a hand plane, and I seem to recall when watching experienced users wielding planers that they do this at each stroke. It contributes to the fatigue of using them as you're lifting with arms extended, but that can't be helped If you were planing across that will account for some of the difficulty I'm sure. Cross-grain planing is much easier that planing along the grain, something noticeable even with a hand plane.

But this may be a good illustration of why planers aren't the ideal tool for smoothing larger surfaces. They're great at removing wood quickly, especially from edges narrower than the cutter head, but they shouldn't be expected to produce a good flat, smooth-ish surface as if you'd dressed the board with a jack plane. Mentioning the jack just above brings to mind another thing, if you were cross-grain planing it should be expected that the surface isn't great after that step.

When flattening a board by hand all cross-grain work, whether by scrub plane or jack plane, is further flattened out by planing along the grain afterwards. It's only that last step that produces a decently flat surface, which is then taken closer to finished with a try or jointer plane before final smoothing. In your situation this planing along the grain to flatten off should be done by handing off to hand plane large surface mini thicknesser as you did, so within reason you should expect the board to look rough before it goes into the thicknesser, which will combine jointing and smoothing operations in one.

My belt sander has an attachment that helps prevent it making gouges by tilting it while sanding large flat surfaces. I think if you could build a small guide to attach to the far side of the planer to prevent the hand plane large surface mini from tilting it might work better for you.

Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up hand plane large surface mini rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private hand plane large surface mini. Create a free Team What is Teams?

Learn more. Are there any tips when working a large surface with an handheld electric planer? Ask Question. Asked 4 years, 10 months ago. Active 4 years, 10 months ago. Viewed 8k times. Improve this question. Matt Matt Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. The right hand plane large surface mini is often the one that's available :- But this may Mini Hand Plane Bullnose 5g be a good illustration of why planers aren't the ideal tool for smoothing larger surfaces.

Improve this answer. Graphus Graphus The technique of a plane taking off at the end of each pass is key. In general, you Hand Plane Large Surface Qualification have to be careful with power planers, and I would only use it if 1 you're familiar with how handplanes work in principle and 2 you take very light cuts. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Email Required, but never shown.

Featured on Meta. Stack Overflow for Teams is now free for up to 50 users, forever. State of the Stack Q1 Blog Post. Linked 8. Related Hot Network Questions. Question feed. Woodworking Stack Exchange works best with JavaScript enabled.

Make Thors Hammer Out Of Wood Jackson Dust Vacuum System Shop Jp Wood Plank Wall Candle Holder