A few years ago a contributor to Fine Woodworking, Jeff Miller, made a horrendous blunder in stating that in-line tenons were commonly used in chair making by furniture makers because they were stronger. His assertion was untrue, and I felt I needed to help balance out the issue at the time. It’s this kind of flawed comment that shapes people’s thinking in the wrong way. Название: Fine Woodworking Издательство: Taunton Press Год месяц: April Номер: Формат: True PDF Размер: 42 Mb Страниц: 88 Язык: English Fine Woodworking is designed for all woodwo.  Название: Fine Woodworking Издательство: Taunton Press Год / месяц: April Номер: Формат: True PDF Размер: 42 Mb Страниц: 88 Язык: English. Fine Woodworking is designed for all woodworkers (from hobbyists to professionals) looking for new project ideas, woodworking techniques and shop jigs and tips that will enhance their time in the shop. Projects are presented in a detailed step-by-step format with photos and illustrations. A full size pattern is inserted in the middle of each issue. Fine Woodworking. Об издании. Подшивка. Учтено номеров: •••1. 1 2 3 4. Gently curved legs attach to the base with mortise-and-tenon joints. If you have a lot fine woodworking angled tenons auction angled tenons to cut for a project, this jig is will make cutting them easy and quick. Half-blind dovetails secure the woodworling to a subtop, and a sliding dovetail secures the bottom to the sides. This allows the mortise chisel to cut most efficiently without pulling to the left or right and bending the chisel. The MDF and plastic-laminate top will stay zuction and stable despite extremes of humidity or rough treatment.

This will let you decide which way the top will fit later. A dry fit is definitely a good idea to make sure everything fits and to make sure you know how to hold everything in place once the glue goes on. With the base glued and clamped, cut the pieces for the top, and glue them together.

To reduce the amount of sanding necessary, a few biscuits added to the joint will help align the pieces and keep them from slipping during glue-up. Cut the excess dowel length flush to the table leg and finish sand.

Unclamp the top and sand it flat. Then finish sand the top. I used the same finish on the table that was used on the chair. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.

We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. By David Thiel. Projects , Side Tables , Stickley , Tables. David Thiel has been part of the Popular Woodworking family for 20 years, and now oversees the woodworking video creation.

The opposite view is that the reduction in strength due to grain run out in the tenon is something that cannot be overlooked in a high stress joint like the back leg of a chair.

Pictured are two tenons that make up joints with a 10 degree splay. The angled tenon on the right makes the deviation away from the grain while the inline tenon on the right stays parallel Fine Woodworking Chair Plans 30 to the grain. Obviously the more the tenon can parallel the grain the stronger it will be so the angled tenon technically is weaker. However look at the splay on this joint which is pretty typical of the trapezoidal seats of classic chairs. First, laying out this joint is more difficult.

Instead I found laying them out with my bevel gauge referenced against the end grain to be the best method though it was not very easy and allowed for a fair amount of error to creep into the joint from one to another. This can be a problem when 2 to 4 of these need to be cut when making a seat frame.

The inline tenon however is cut just like any other tenon and the angle is introduced only in the shoulder. A mortise gauge can be set once and used to do all the tenons and mortises thereby increasing accuracy considerably. On the converse, the inline tenon requires an angled mortise.

This scares a lot of people in both the hand tool and power tool camps. Sorry in advance if I screw this up. Quote from: snichols on June 19, , PM. Quote from: Kev on June 19, , PM. RonWen Retailer Posts: ScotF Posts: I think that that is fine for chairs and most furniture projects. There are a couple of members that build lots of chairs and have used the without issue. If you are interested in build a Sam Maloof style chair, Charles Brock uses the in that construction and it is a part of his video instruction.

I have built bookcases and computer desks with the and they are all rock solid and I have had no issues to date with any of them. Also, you might be surprised at how much the smaller tenons can come into play -- I originally thought that I would only use 8mm or 10mm tenons and while these two sizes I use the most, I have used quite a few 4mm, 5mm and 6mm tenons too.

Having the different sizes is nice as you may very well incorporate some thinner stock into your work and having the right Domino is handy. The tenon assortment with the cutters is a good value IMHO. The XL is perfect for doors or beds or large pieces that really require that extra strength, but for most furniture and cabinets I think that the is more than adequate to get the job done. If I need deeper mortises, then I will use a router and mill my own tenon stock.

Scot mentioned Sam Maloof and his chair building, I attended a two day seminar in Northern Ca with Sam Maloof 20 or so years ago and Sam actually made one of his chairs in a day. He had custom router bits made up for him and he used a angle grinder to hog out seat bottoms.

Sam would use his router and turn it off and drop it on the bench before it stopped spinning. Read about his design and you'll find out that he used wood screws to strengthen most of his mortise and tenon joints. I'm still in the Domino camp for your work. Kevin Stricker Posts: Based on the picture you posted, I think the would be a better option. As for the tenon size discussion, I for one used to always advocate bigger is better.

Doing some destructive testing has shown me that the position and orientation of the Domino is a bigger factor in strength than the size of the Dominos. So while you have made a strong tenon, you have deceased the strength of the stock significantly.

In a typical edge to end grain joint you have almost halved the number of long grain fibers at the joint. As a result the joint will usually fail in the stock of the end grain, but will often also blow out the side of the edge grain as well. Hopefully you can also check them both out in person at a local dealer. Most modern chairs have the rear legs splayed out for more stability and the front part of a chair seat should be higher than the back of the seat, for comfort.

The back part of the seat will be narrower than the front part, again for comfort. This means that there are very few ninety degree angles in most chairs.

In my chairs, the only 90 degree joints are those that connect the front legs to the front stretcher. This has two impacts on your question: 1 At most joints, there just isn't room for a long tenon, so no need for the XL. Maybe Fine Woodworking Combination Square the XL has improved on this, I only have the old smaller one.

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