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Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Easy Adirondack Chair Plans Free Trial Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. Brand Woodcraft. Wood Magazine. U Bild. Woodcraft Magazine. But, what sets this one apart, is by loosening four knobs and lowering the seat, then lifting the back and rotating it forward, you can fold this chair up for convenient storage! This spring, Rockler will also be selling the published plans, a set of templates for the curved parts and a hardware kit at Rockler.

Now go ahead and trace the first leg onto the second leg blank and cut it to rough shape, just outside of your layout lines. Then, attach the two legs together, face to face, with double-sided tape. Trim the second leg to match the first leg using a long bearing-guided flush-trim bit in your handheld router or on a router table. Mark both back legs for these bolts here that will attach the front legs and allow these parts to pivot.

When the dadoing is finished, file or sand the sharp back corners of the legs round, ease the long sharp edges and finish-sand the legs to grit. And now we can connect the legs with a couple of seat stretchers — a wider one in back that fits into the front-most dado we just cut, and this one, right here. So, go ahead and make up these parts. Install the rear seat stretcher in the narrow, front-most leg dadoes. When these lap fits into the leg dadoes, it enables the pivots to install flush with the faces of the legs, like this.

Cut these laps on a band saw, with a wide dado blade or a straight bit in the router table. Then make up these backrest stops and install them in their dadoes so their top rounded end is are flush with the top edges of the legs. We can wrap up work on our seat base by installing these seat slats. And that will help prevent splinters. I also drilled these pairs of screw pilot holes at my drill press, before installing the slats, to keep the screw patterns evenly spaced and straight.

Counterbore these holes so you can cover the screw heads with wood plugs. That takes care of the seat portion of this project, so now we can move on to the fold-down backrest.

Each one requires a long slot near the bottom so the backrest can slide up, like this, to set the chair up or fold it down. For each bit height setting, make two passes instead of just one, flipping the workpiece end for end and keeping the same edge against the fence. This way, you can cut the slot in from both faces to speed the process along.

But remember, make sure to keep the same edge against the fence. As long as your bit can cut to at least half the thickness of the workpiece, you can cut these centered slots without buying an overly long bit.

This is also a good time to drill a bolt hole in each support for attaching the back ends of the arms, later.

The backrest of the chair also requires these two horizontal crosspieces. So, make up one, then template-rout the second one to match it, just like you did for the back legs. You want this framework to slide in between the leg pivots without binding. If the fit is too tight, trim the crosspieces a little bit shorter, clamp it up and try the fit again.

With the seatback framework assembled, we can move on to making the back slats.

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