With the right care, your wood furniture can last venere generations to come. It is also among the most enduring applications. Edit wood veneer finish up Article. Gabriel Connor Salter. This makes it important to prevent water from sitting on any veneer furniture. To create this article, volunteer authors worked to edit and improve it over time. It is usually necessary to apply at least 3 coats of finish shellac, lacquer, varnish, etc.

I even use a rag to apply my first coat of Wood Veneer Finishing Journal finish, first coat only, when applying a finish. Finishing wood veneer with wax is easy and you get a good looking surface quickly and easily.

However, wax finishes give very little protection and successive coats of wax must be applied on a regular basis, forever. Apply the wax with a clean rag, let sit for a minute, wipe off. Buff if necessary. A rule of thumb: Two or three coats at first. One coat a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a month thereafter.

Getting a good finish using wax, stain, penetrating finishes and oil finishes is pretty easy. The drawback to wax, stains, penetrating finishes and oil finishes is that the aren't durable.

Getting a good finish using Shellac, varnish, or lacquer is tricky. Entire books have been written on how to apply a finish to a wooden surface. When using stains, wax, penetrating finishes or oil finishes, you may need to apply more than 1 coat. Use your judgment. When using shellac, varnish, lacquer, you will need to apply more than 1 coat.

It is usually necessary to apply at least 3 coats of finish shellac, lacquer, varnish, etc. Always let the finish dry completely before sanding between coats. Sanding between coats is always necessary when using finishes such as varnish, shellac, lacquer.

Sanding usually isn't necessary when using stains, waxes and oil finishes. Sand in the direction of the grain "with" the grain. Use a fine or very fine grit for sanding.

If it is necessary to sand against the grain, be sure to follow up by sanding the area "with" the grain. Some people use a fine steel wool pad. The filaments of the steel wool should be at a right angle to the wood grain. Apply pressure with your hand and push the steel wool pad back and forth, going in the same direction as the wood grain.

Be aware that steel wool leaves small shards metal on the surface. It is important to remove all of the residue, especially when using a water based finish that will cause the metal shards to rust. Finishing Wood Veneers With Shellac. Shellac is an alcohol based finish that goes on easy and dries rapidly.

Shellac gives off some fumes. Shellac will give a serviceable finish to your wood veneer surface, but with limited durability. Apply at least 3 coats of Shellac.

Brush on the first few coats of shellac. Work in a well ventilated area with low humidity and a temperature of 55 degrees F or higher. Apply light, even coats that go in the direction of the grain.

Let dry between coats. Sand between coats. The final coat can be brushed on, but you will get the best results if you spray the final coat using an aerosol spray can. Finishing wood veneers with lacquer is quick and easy. Most lacquers use lacquer thinner as the solvent. Lacquer dries fast but it gives off heavy fumes. Lacquer imparts a deep, rich finish that is serviceable, but with limited durability.

Apply at least 3 coats of Lacquer to the veneered surface. Lacquers might penetrate through a paper backed veneer to the glue layer. This warning does not apply to shellac finishes or to varnish finishes. One way to mitigate the penetration of a lacquer finish is to apply a coat or two of shellac first, then finish off the process with lacquer.

Penetrating finishes offer a quick and easy method of finishing wood veneers, but they provide limited service and durablility. You will need to apply at least 3 coats of penetrating finish to the veneered surface at first. The luster will soon fade and successive coats will need to be applied to restore the finished look. Penetrating finishes go by different names, such as tung oil, penetrating oil, penetrating finish, teak oil, etc.

Penetrating finishes are petroleum based. Due to high solvent content, penetrating finishes soak down into the wood. Wipe the penetrating finish on with a rag, let stand for a minute or two. Wipe off. Sanding between coats may not be necessary. Penetrating finishes will probably penetrate through a paper backed veneer to the glue layer.

Water Based Polyurethane varnish is a good choice for finishing wood veneers. It dries quickly and it gives a lasting, durable, finish that resists stains, abrasion, water marks and some chemicals. The clean up is with water, there are little to no fumes, and you Wood Veneer Finish 30 can work in a closed area. Work in a low humidity environment and a temperature of at least 55 degrees F.

Apply the first few coats with a brush. Apply light, even coats, using brush strokes that go in the direction of the grain. The final coat can be brushed on, but you will get best results if you spray the Wood Veneer Finish Types final coat using an aerosol spray. Petroleum based polyurethane varnish is our number one choice for the home crafts person for finishing wood veneers. Unlike lacquer or alkyd varnish, polyurethane is a plastic, and that fact becomes obvious when you spread it too thick.

While it is best to spray polyurethane onto a veneer, you can also do it with a brush or rag. It is best to build it up in thin coats, sanding each coat when it dries and recoating before it cures. Sand the veneer by hand with grit sandpaper, going with the grain of the wood. This removes spots of dirt and old finish that may still be on the surface.

Wipe off the sanding dust with a damp rag. Seal the wood grain by wiping on shellac or a solution of polyurethane varnish and mineral spirits with a rag. Let the sealer dry, then sand the surface again by hand with grit sandpaper.

Wipe off the sanding dust. If you're applying a stain, it will seal the Wood Veneer Finishing Techniques wood, so you can omit sealing with shellac or thinned polyurethane. Apply a thin, wet coat of polyurethane, either by brushing or spraying. If you're brushing, deposit material onto a dry surface and brush it with even strokes into one that has already been painted.

If you're spraying, move the gun steadily, keeping a uniform distance between the spray tip and the surface. Don't arc it away at the edges. Pop any bubbles that appear with the tip of your paintbrush. They are more likely to appear when you're brushing, especially if you're using a waterborne finish, and you may be able to prevent them by moving your brush more slowly.

Let the surface dry until it is no longer sticky, then lightly sand it with grit sandpaper and apply another thin coat.

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