I just bought this tobacco smoking pipe off EBay. Can this be sanded and sealed well enough to protect barefoot children from wood for turning mahogany 80 dreaded splinters? Related Articles:. You are considering the right products for sure. These products include: —. Reply to CP. Reply to jamie.

It is further down the line when one starts to wear and the other does not that the issue may become more obvious and ensuring good maintenance will help to avoid future problems. You could consider a product such as the Osmo Country Colour this is a penetrating oil that gives an opaque paint like look and may be better matched to an oiled finish on the inside. Both sides then being Microporous and better suited to expansion and retraction of the wood.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do feel free to get in touch via our contact us page. Hi, really hope you can help. I am wanting to know if oiling or varnishing is the best way to protect oak slats on garden benches? I tend to recommend oils over varnishes for exterior projects, the reason being, that although they oils are not quite as durable as varnishes they are far easier to maintain over time.

Oils penetrate the woods surface and will not peel and flake. They are very good at repelling moisture and when they wear and need refreshing you can simply apply a coat to the clean, dry surface and refresh the appearance and the protective quality.

We have a range of Garden Furniture oils that you could have a look at, a popular choice is the Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil which is suitable for hard and soft woods. Good preparation will be the key to a good finish and I would always recommend a test area first to ensure you like the result achieved.

I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. They look so nice that I think I may leave them natural and oil both sides. Hi, We have treated an oak external door with the Barratine Preservative and Osmo Oak Oil as per the guidelines above. However, 3 full days after applying the Osmo, it is still tacky and wet to the touch in lots of places.

Can you provide any pointers? Thanks John. My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. Slow drying time is often an indication of over application of the oil.

Osmo oils do require very thin coats to be applied and depending on the type and preparation of the wood will depend on how much. Oak being a hard wood, for example will require less oil that a pine or other softwood.

And the preparation can also impact on uptake, sanding to a grit higher than can start to close the grain and make the oil less likely to absorb into the surface of the wood. Or previous product that remains on the wood can also reduce penetration.

Of course the cooler weather and damp conditions of this time of year will also slow down the drying time some what. Over time the oil will dry, however if it is on the surface it could offer reduce protection over time and you may need to consider sanding back and re applying more thinly. If you need any further help or advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with me via our contact us page.

Hi we have had a oak pegolla built over our fish pond 8 weeks ago the oak is untreated but every time it rains the tanning oil comes out the wood and discoulors the water in the pond and stains the brick work around it, the oil is totally harmless to the fish but my question is how long will the tanning oil come from the oak?

Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Its a bit of a how long is a piece of string question I am afraid. It will depend on how old the wood is, how it has been dried, where and how long it has been stored before it came to you.

I would say you can expect the issue to continue for around 5 years. More so in the colder and damper months as this is what activates the tannins. My usual advice would be to wipe down occasionally with some Methylated Spirits, however the proximity of the pond makes this difficult, but if you are able to clean or remove tannins that leach out it will help to avoid black mould.

The tannins are a bit like candy for mould and it is advisable where possible to keep the wood clean. It does sound like you have changed the texture of the door by sanding it. Often you can get the texture back by wetting bare wood, this raises the grain a little. However as you have applied an oil this will not now work and as the doors are veneered I would not like to recommend a further sand at this stage unless it was absolutely necessary or if you are sure that you will never be sanding those doors again in the future.

Veneers in general will only take sanding once or twice, before you start to get through to the base wood ruining the overall appearance of the veneer. If you do need any further advice or guidance please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. Hi there I wonder whether you can help. Any advise please? Thank you. Thank you for getting in touch with your question, because oils penetrate the surface of the wood there is little reflective surface and so little shine.

You are able to apply a wax over the current finish and this can give the desired shine to your wood. Wax can be applied over most finishes with out issue, however you can not apply anything over a wax and so you will need to remove the wax, should you need to refresh or top up the Oil on a future date. You could take a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish which has a clear within the range that you can apply to your handrails and newell posts.

Although it is suitable for use on the flooring and treads I would not recommend as wax can be slippery underfoot over time. For further advice or alternate product options, you can visit our website or get in touch via contact us page.

Does staining on the surface of oak depend on water getting though the timber. Or can it be brought out by water running over the surface. Just cannot seem to find where the water is getting in! Tannins in oak can become reactive because of colder temperatures as well as moisture ingress. If the beams are very aged and very porous the moisture could be traveling around the surfaces of the wood much easier. Barrettine Methylated Spirits can be used to wipe away the tannins, although any that have stained may need sanding.

Locating that source of moisture ingress will be the only way to truly prevent further damage, I am sure you know. And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know. Hi I bought a oak tv unit secondhand. It has a very orange look off it that I dont like.

What is the best way to get rid of this? I dont want it darkened as I like natural looking wood. Also can you tell me how to take off acrylic paint from the top off it as the previous owner sprayed it. Thanks in advance. I would recommend the Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover as a quick and effective stripper to remove much of the current finish. Its a little messy but work well on most previous coatings, a test area should always be done to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

Once most or all of the previous product is gone you are able to sand the wood. How much will depend on the condition of the wood, but as a guide you can start at 80 grit and work up to — grit. You will find the natural colour of the wood is far less orange in appearance and from there you can start to consider your options for a natural finish and Oils are very good for a natural look and feel.

Fiddes Hard Wax Oil requires just two thin coats to be applied for a finish that will nourish and protect the wood. I am here to help if you have any questions at all just get in touch contact us. I cant contact the previous owners to check and i have 9 doors to work on. What would you advise to eliminate any previous coatings, grease, and day to day grime that may have built up on the doors before applying the new varnish etc?

For an all over good clean I would recommend Barrettine Methylated Spirits it will degrease the surface and remove any grime. It does not remove any remaining finish on the woods surface however and to remove these will depend on the type of finish that has been used. Oils will have to be sanded out, waxes can be removed with a Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover and varnishes, either sanded out or a stripper such as the Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover.

With any stripper a test area should always be carried out first to ensure there is no adverse reaction. Its also worth checking all the details for the product that you are applying to the door for any preparation guidance that they recommend.

For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. They support the porch roof which is all open I want them looking natural and not looking varnished. I want to protect them against the elements without looking a fake colour.

Please can you advise the best way forward for me please. A very excited customer, dawn. Using an oil will help to feed and nourish the wood whilst protecting it from weathering. Oils are very easy to apply and maintain and will never crack, flake or peel off. In terms of the finish they produce, if you use the clear from this range, it will darken the wood to give it an almost damp like appearance and will also enhance the oaks natural colour character and grain.

This version will keep the wood lighter in appearance. This gives a fairly good representation of how the wood will look once oiled. I hope the above helps but if you have any further questions about your project or which products to use, please feel free to contact us at any time.

Hi Your expert advise would be hugely welcomed. I am ordering some new custom cut oak kitchen worktops. The company. I think on balance I would prefer to use the osmo hard wax products than Danish oil so want to order the tops untreated then on delivery treat with osmo products.

They say the tops are kiln dried and want me to sign a waiver for bowing or warping from any moisture during transit. My thoughts for best protection are osmo wood protector followed by top oil.

Is this a good combination or are Fidders products better? If you have concerns about the transit waiver with the worktop supplier then settle for the Danish Oil finish. Once the worktops have been installed you can either wait for the danish oil finish to naturally wear then apply the Osmo Top Oil, or alternatively, they can be lightly sanded with a grit sandpaper, then wiped down with white spirit and then treated with the Osmo Top Oil.

I hope this helps but if you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us at any time. What would you recommend? It sounds like the grain has raised after being wetted with water. This is where the soft grain of the wood swells after absorbing water whereas the denser, harder grain does not.

Applying a wood oil will usually darken the wood and enhance the natural colour and character of the timber, some more than others. To better retain the natural, untreated look of the wood whilst still offering protection from dust, dirt and moisture try either Osmo Polyx Oil Raw or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural.

These 2 products will better retain the natural, freshly stripped or sanded look rather than darkening and enhancing the wood grain.

Both products are available in sample or small tin sizes if you would like to try them first. You may be able to remove much of the teak oil by using a clean, white uncoloured lint-free or microfibre cloth dampened in white spirit.

This will help to dissolve the teak oil and you should be able to wash out and wipe it off. The only other alternative is to sand the teak oil out but you will unfortunately loose the raised grain look that you like.

I hope the above helps but if you have any further questions about your project or the products to use, please feel free to contact us at any time.

We have an oak framed extension on our house that has now started to darken after years. Should I sand back and preserve or will putting on a mould resistance treatment pull out the black. I clear wax annually but it is still blackening with the British weather and south facing sun.

Much appreciated. Is it an overall, general darkening of the wood or black patches? Do you know what product was originally used and can you tell us what you are currently using annually to treat the wood? Some pictures would also be helpful. Please use our contact us page to send us some details or alternatively, give us a call and speak with one of our in-house experts to discuss this further.

Once we have a better understanding of the issue, we will be able to recommend some actions and what products will be needed. If it is indeed mould, the wood should be stripped then treated with a mould and mildew cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner.

This will clean and kill off any active or dormant mould spores in the wood. It can then be refinished with an exterior wood oil that provides UV protection. Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is a popular choice and is available in both clear and colour tinted options.

In terms of stripping the wood, it depends on what products have been used in the past. If the wood is sanded to finely, it will prevent or restrict the oil from penetrating into the wood grain. I hope the above helps but feel free to contact us with further details and to get further guidance with your project.

I have some fine internal oak doors which are about 20 years old, the two middle doors open outwards and fold backwards so that on nice days they can be open and facing the garden. All of the doors could do with a revarnish, but as you can appreciate, the middle doors have faded quite a bit more than the rest because of their external exposure to the sunshine.

Can you please advise me how to best go about preparing and revarnishing the doors, and if there is any way of ensuring that the revarnished door colour looks consistent throughout. As the doors are being refinished, am I right in assuming that they are all being sanded back to bare wood? Sanding and re-varnishing all the doors will result in a better matching finish across all the doors.

The colour of the doors that have faded the most will likely require a slightly more aggressive sanding, starting with perhaps a p40 or p80 grit sandpaper and working up to a p or p grit.

This will remove the UV damaged surface fibres of the wood and reveal the naturally coloured wood beneath. Once the doors have been sanded, they can be re-finished with either a wood oil or varnish that contains UV filters or stabilisers.

This will help to protect the wood and will slow down the colour bleaching process caused by the suns UV rays, a little like suntan cream. In terms of a tough, durable varnish that is suitable for both interior and exterior wood and contains UV filters, consider Polyvine Heavy Duty Extreme Varnish.

This water-based polyurethane varnish is extremely tough and durable and is available in a dead-flat and satin finish. I hope the above helps but if you would like to discuss this project further with one of our in-house experts, please feel free to contact us at any time.

I am building a green oak porch. I know that it is detrimental to treat it before it naturally dries out. This may sound stupid but, in order to retain the colour could it be treated on the front side , thus allowing it to dry out on the other 3 sides?

Good Morning Stephen, thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry and I can see the logic in your theory, however I would still probably not advice it.

Blocking one side will just prevent that side from drying out and could possibly cause warping in the wood, depending on thickness and exposure. My advice will be to allow all surfaces of the wood to dry out.

It is always difficult with green oak the wood will naturally silver before you are able to put any product on it. There is the option of once it is dry that you can use the Wood Reviver Gel to get some of the original colour back to the wood, test areas are always recommended.

And then consider application of a protective finishing product, colour will help to slow down any further UV damage as the pigments act as sunscreen. I hope all that helps and if you do need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch. Hi Samantha, Many thanks for getting back. I thought that may be the answer. Best regards. It would be difficult for me to predict as the age, thickness, environment are all factors in the drying of the wood.

There is a general consensus that one inch per year is the drying time of green oak, but again I would not say this is a given. Hello, We have an oak staircase which has a shiny look and feel to it so we think it has been varnished. Please can you tell me the best way to go about this? You could look at a stripper such as the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover this is a quick working gel that makes the varnish bubble up to be scraped off.

A light sand with a grit and a wipe over with Methylated Spirits and you should be back to bare wood. You can then look at application of a Fiddes Hard Wax Oil which gives a natural look and feel to the wood, as well as great protection. Sample sizes are available and I would recommend this as the wood type, age and condition will all impact on the over all finish result.

For further advice please feel free to get in touch via or contact us page. Hi, we just bought a dining table which is untreated dry oak and already see how quickly it stains from everything.

Would you please suggest what could be done to protect the table in the future considering we want it as close to natural as possible. Also, what could be done to remove already existing water and oil stains? I can recommend a great product for you to have a look at that will maintain the natural appearance of the wood, Fiddes Hard Wax oil Natural this contains a minute amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening that you get with a standard clear oil.

This oil penetrates the surface of the wood with just two very thin coats being required for application. Sample sizes are available and I would recommend these as the wood you are applying to will impact on the colour and result that can be achieved.

The oil dries hard and gives a protective, moisture repellent finish to the woods surface and it is easy to apply, clean and maintain over time. It worked really well and got them clean. I then ingorantly used this same technique on my finished white oak banister to try and remove the oil and dirty from the hand rail.

This was a complete failer. Some areas look clean and perfect while others have turned grey. Whilst Vinegar is good for many things, I would not necessarily recommend it for cleaning wood, although it depends on the type of vinegar you use, as it can react with the wood. You can use it to clean if thinned down or simply add a small amount to warm soapy water if that is what you are using to clean your floor with. Undiluted Vinegar and steel wool are often used to create a treatment that ages the wood, giving a silvered appearance or a natural patina.

You may find that this is what has occurred on your banister and I would think that sanding may be the best way to restore the natural colour of the wood. If the effect has penetrated fairly deeply then a Fiddes Oxalic Acid Crystals may also be worth considering, a test area is strongly advised.

I also would not advice Wood For Turning Mahogany Github using steel wool on oak, or other woods such as Iroko or Teak as often little particles of the steel get caught in the wood and over time react with the tannins in the wood and cause black or blue staining to the wood, that is difficult to get out. I hope that helps and please do not hesitate to get back in touch via our contact us page.

Hi I am thinking of buying a deeply carved antique table and chairs made of oak. They have many years of dust buildup. The top of the table is deeply carved with glass sitting on top so it can be used. It is going to be very hard to clean and I do not know what finish is on it. It looks like it could use a high pressure cleaner on it to clean out all the crannies but I have been reading comments above and noticed that water will turn it black.

I have no idea how I am going to clean this if I go ahead. Anything with a lot of detail and carving can be difficult to clean and not knowing what the current finish is makes it that little bit harder also.

A pressure cleaner may be an option, however its not one that I would necessarily recommend as it could damage the current finish. And if the table is of value, then care will need to be taken and you may have to work by hand to get the wood clean. We have a great range of cleaning products suitable for wood and wood finishes Cleaners but you will need to work out which is best for your project.

If you have any questions or need further advice please feel free to email direct via our contact us page. Hi I have an old dark oak pot cupboard. I would prefer this to be a lighter or golden oak colour. How would I do this please?

Oak is not generally a dark wood and so perhaps there is a finish or stain of some sort on it? Perhaps you could sand a small area to see what the result is, if the natural colour of the wood is lighter. I would be happy to take a look at some photos, you can send then direct to wfd. Can you offer any advice on products to use to keep it looking a similar colour to original but will be safe and not dry out and look awful near heat.

It will be difficult to keep a piece of wood that age totally natural and unchanged, the age of the oak is highly likely to result in some considerable darkening when you apply a clear product to it.

There are things you are able to do to reduce the darkening, use a water based product that sits on the surface rather than an oil that penetrates, or consider an oil with a minute amount of white pigment in it to reduce darkening, however until you try your test area it can be difficult to predict how this oak will react.

Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a water based product that may suit your needs, it comes in a range of sheens and in sample sizes to allow you to test first. It will withstand some heat, although direct or long term exposure may shorten the life of the varnish and increase the chance of flaking.

Should flaking occur you are likely to need to sand back to bare wood to re apply an all over even finish again. The alternate is Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this is an oil that absorbs into the wood and dries hard to give a durable protective finish. I would expect this to darken slightly, even though it is designed not to, how much you will not know, again until you try a test area first.

The benefit of oil application is the ease of maintenance, as the oil wears away you are able to top up with a refresher coat, with out the need to sand back, just ensure the surface of the wood is clean, dry, grease free and ready to take on and absorb more oil.

Again heat may reduce the life of the oil, this depends very much on how close and how hot the exposure is. I hope that helps and if you need any further guidance please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. The boards would be in a pyramid shape once up so 7x different lengths. I would say your best option will be to treat the cladding before putting up, this way you will be able to apply to both sides of the boards for a better level of protection.

A clear preserver will help protect the wood from mould, fungus and rot and with a product such as the Barrettine Cladding Preserver which is ideal for your project. With new oak tannins are an inevitable issue and if you take the time to wipe over the wood with Methylated spirits first, this can pull out some of the surface tannins and reduce staining. If you do this before application of the preserver, it will not stop or prevent the tannins from coming out, and this will mostly occur with damp, cooler weather, but it will help reduce initial leaching.

The preserver will protect for a number of years however to maintain that protection top up coats will be required at some point in the future, when will depend on how exposed the wood is to the elements.

I hope that helps and should you have any questions please do get back in touch via our contact us page. Hi, I yesterday mounted a brass plaque on a piece of untreated oak board and then onto a wicket gate.

Overnight it has rained and the plaque now has two slight trickle stains down its surface which I presume has been caused by tannin release from the oak. I understand this might go on for 6 months before all the tannin has run out? Is there any treatment for the oak which could minimise or even remove this problem altogether? Many thanks for any advice you can give. It is as you say a common issue with Oak, moist or cooler conditions will activate the tannins and this can go on for while depending on the age of the wood.

Wiping over well with Methylated Spirits regularly will help to remove and reduce this. And staining however may require a light sand. Its worth a regular clean as those tannins will encourage black mould spores and these will certainly mark the wood if not cleaned away regularly.

It will over time stop occurring but if you keep and eye on the wood for up to 2 years to ensure it is well looked after. And if you need any advice on a product to treat and protect the oak with please do feel free get in touch and speak to one of our friendly advisers via our contact us page.

It is vital to ensure that all previous product is removed. The finishing oils need to penetrate the surface of the wood in order to provide effective protection. Any remaining previous treatments may prevent this from happening and uneven sanding will be highlighted when the oil is applied. We are trying to match a new section of unfinished oak stair case to our existing. The handrail has a slight gloss to it, the spindles less so.

Any tips to finishes we could try please? Colour matching can be difficult, even with the same type of wood, and the age, type and condition will all impact on the colour that will be achieved. Even how you prepare the wood can impact on product uptake and in turn colour. You could have a look at a stain to get the desired colour followed by a top coat of clear varnish, the Manns Classic Oak Stain has a wide range of colours available that may come close to the colour that you want, and they can be intermixed to create an alternate colour or lightened by adding water.

Its worth baring in mind that the top coat of varnish will slightly darken the colour also and full test areas are recommended to ensure you are getting the desired finish. It was finished to p before oiling. What have I done wrong?? I believe the problem you have had is down to the oil being unable to penetrate the woods surface. Oak is a naturally hard wood with a tight grain and as you have sanded to a grit this has closed the grain further, making it difficult for the oil to absorb into the wood.

When this happens some or all of the oil may have dried in the surface and this will offer little protection and is probably why it is marking so easily.

Unfortunately the only way to resolve this will be to remove the current oil and re sand to a — grit, to open up the grain, wipe over with Methylated spirits and re apply the oil. You may also want to consider a slightly thinner oil, more suited for hardwoods called Osmo Wood Wax Extra Thin whilst the Polyx Oil can be used for most wood types the Extra Thin can be easier and just as protective to use. I hope that help and if you need an further guidance please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

I have just had two solid hardwood tree trunk tables delivered which are being used as side tables. They have their bark stripped and have been sanded down. The seller advised that they had been kiln dried but within 2 days of arriving they have started to grow white and green mound from the top and bottom of the stumps. Is there anything I can do to salvage them? Do you have advice?

Many thanks! This could just be the last of the moisture coming to the surface. A piece of wood this size will take a long time to dry out naturally and if kiln dried may have needed longer than it originally got. If you wipe over the surface with a Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray to remove the current growth. And then you could look at treating with a wood preservative suitable for interior use which will help to prevent mould and fungi from re developing.

This advised is based on the wood having no current treatments applied. The preservative is likely to darken the wood slightly and a test area is recommended to ensure you like to darkened appearance. You could also consider application of a penetrative oil to offer some further protection, although I would recommend doing this a little further down the line when you are sure the wood is fully dry and there will be no more mould issue.

Hi, I have an old oak bannister which has been sanded back. I applied one coat of boiled linseed oil with a brush, then wiped off any excess oil with a cloth. The next day I discovered parts of the oak have discoloured to a very dark black. I wanted to retain a natural looking colour for the oak. How do I remove the black areas? Thankfully I applied the linseed oil to the part of the bannister that faces the wall. Should I have used another type of oil eg Danish oil to avoid black parts?

Kind regards. It is rare but it does happen. Linseed can turn the oak and some other wood types, black. You can scrub with Barrettine Cellulose Thinner and this will help to remove some of the staining, but any stubborn stains may require sanding back to remove.

As an alternative I would recommend a product such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil this is a much more durable finish that will be more longer lasting than the linseed oil, it only requires two thin coats.

Sample sachets are available. Danish oil is an option however this is mixture of natural oils and may contain Linseed oil also, and so you may find you have a similar problem. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. We cut some fresh oak rounds about an inch thick to be used at a wedding reception on May 4.

Can you please tell me the best way to keep the beautiful color. The rounds feel like they have some moisture in them. Do they need to dry first before coating with something? Any help would be appreciated. If the rounds still have a high moisture content then it is not advised to apply any product just yet. Ideally the wood needs time to dry out and as a guide an inch thick will take around a year to dry enough for a finish.

If they are wet to the touch now it is unlikely that they will be dry for May. As they are needed for May my recommendation will be to try a test application now on one, with something like the Osmo Wood wax Finish Extra Thin see if it soaks in okay and dries and if that works carry out the rest, but be prepared that long term the finish may fail, if you just require them for the wedding and the test works okay then it is a short term fix.

The Oil should penetrate the surface of the wood and will slightly darken and enhance the natural tones and grain of the wood. I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. I have an American oak staircase and American oak front door. Both Timbers were delivered and installed raw.

It appears that the varnish has dried out the timber and the timber is now looking a lot rougher than it originally was when it was raw. Do you have any advice you can give me? I would not expect the varnish to have this impact on the wood and it will certainly not draw out any moisture from the wood. The wood may be drying out naturally and this is resulting in some shrinking and cracking. It may be worth getting in touch with the door manufacturer to see if the wood was stored some where damp, if you could also let me know which varnish has been applied to the wood and the method of preparation and application, I may be able to advice further.

Hi, I have built a new bathroom on the side of my house and have a false wall which houses the wall mounted taps for the bath. The wall is about mm high and want to put a nice looking shelf on top to finish it off.. I am having some waned oak delivered soon to be used as the shelf.. Thank you for your question. Often for Bathrooms I recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is ideal for bathroom areas that are exposed to humidity and temperature changes on a regular basis.

It will darken the wood slightly however. And you are able to get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the bare wood. It is superior at repelling moisture and is a base coat for an oiled finish with the Osmo Polyx Oil. To keep the wood looking as untreated as possible you could also look at the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw this has a minute amount of white pigment to counter act the darkening effect of a clear oil, however it can not be used with the Wood Protector as this darkens the wood and will defeat the object of using the Raw.

I hope that makes sense and helps but if you do have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Have purchased second hand oiled oak table. Would like to darken it considerably. My best advice would be to sand back to bare wood, this will ensure a good base for any product that you will use and opens up your options for a range of achievable looks.

Oil finishes have the benefit of looking and feeling very natural and they are easy to apply, clean and maintain. Hard Wax Oil offer enough durability for dining tables and coffee tables.

These penetrative oils penetrate the surface of the wood and require just two very thin coats to be applied. They do require application to bare wood. There is a chance that if the current oil finish is fairly old then a light sand will be enough before application however test areas are required and this will not give the best finish. For further advice please feel free to call in and speak to one of our friendly advisers on or via our contact us page.

I have three green oak timbers to install as part of a new stud wall in an old s house. Also do I need to treat all surfaces pre installation? Been allowed to dry naturally or kiln Dried? Within months you will get problems with either the treatment or mould. Perhaps if you can get in touch via our contact us page with some further details. I can advice further.

We had a green oak porch built in Feb this year and all the rain water is coming though at the bottom and marking all the wood. The wood is not drying out as we have had so much rain. Any suggestions please many thanks.

Its a bit of a catch 22 you have there as I can not advice treating the wood unless it has dried out but you need to apply treatment to protect the wood from moisture.

Green oak can not be treated as it has a high moisture content that you should not seal in. So as you can imagine it will take a while for some Green Oak structures to be at a stage where they are ready for treatment and for many people even at this stage they do not apply anything as the like the way that the wood ages. All that said I would not expect a porch structure to allow water in, are you able to email me directly with further details or photos and I may be able to help further.

You can email me via our contact us page. We have just had a green oak porch constructed and I have applied 2 coats of Fiddes high build wood oil and have made the mistake of not applying a clear preservative first.

Unfortunately you will not the able to add a preservative now with out removing all the current finish first. That said its not the end of the world. The Fiddes will repel moisture which is the biggest cause of mould and mildew. My partner and I have purchased a small oak barrel with the intention of it being signed as a guest book for our upcoming wedding. As of now, the barrel is untreated.

Our initial idea was to have guests use fine-tipped sharpies to sign it at our wedding and then stain and wax the wood afterwards. However, would the sharpie ink bleed through the natural wood? Is it best to stain the wood first before signing and then wax it afterwards?

What would be your recommendation. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated! I am sorry that I have not got back to you sooner. If you want to stain the barrel, you should this before the wedding.

Sand the wood to give good base for the stain and you could have a look at the Morrells Light Fast which is a solvent based stain, it will give good colour to the wood and will not raise the grain. Test areas are strongly recommended and avoid the exposure to moisture before you are able to seal it.

Congratulations on your wedding and if you get chance I would love to see some photos of the Barrel. What would be the best thing to use that also offers good protection from water etc. There are two products that you can have a look at, they are similar products and aimed at leaving the wood looking as natural as possible whilst still giving a moisture repellent protective finish.

The first is the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this has a slightly high solvent content than the alternative and so will dry a little quicker. And the second is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw which is made with more natural products and less solvent.

Both contain a minute amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening that you get with a clear product and leave the wood looking as untreated as possible. Hi, I have made an outdoor table from new green oak sleepers which have been drying for a few months, I want to keep a natural look to the surface which has been sanded.

I have read lots on this site and see that you generally recommend preservative before oil for outdoor use but I am wondering if this is safe for surfaces where food Wood For Turning Mahogany 600 will be consumed or will it be OK once dried and oiled over? I have kept the whole thing covered with a tarpaulin but some rain got to it yesterday and it has left brown watermarks on the surface which I guess are tannin marks, will oil prevent this once I get it coated?

Also as the the oak is dry externally but obviously still holding plenty of moisture inside, will it be able to escape once oil is applied? Ask as many questions as you want, I am happy to help. Green Oak is always tricky as it does take a long time to dry, as a guide one year per 1 inch thickness, and I would not recommend applying anything until the wood is much more dry.

You are effectively sealing in the moisture. Oils will allow some of the moisture to disperse but will slow down the drying process considerably and can cause long term problems with the wood. Covering with Tarpaulin will also slow down the natural drying process of the wood. Often with green wood it is about allowing the wood to weather naturally and so accepting that the wood will change shape or colour as it weathers and dries.

So that what you end up with when the wood does dry is a unique. Once the wood is dry this is the time to apply a coat of preservative followed by two coats of exterior oil. I hope that helps and if you have any questions or need help with ordering please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. These were originally treated with Osmo Oil but have not been maintained and there is now significant weathering and quite deep blackening in the grain in places.

Can these be restored, which would be our preferable option, or do we have to resign ourselves to painting or a dark stain? Thanks, Peter. You may be able to save them yet. The blackening you have is likely to be the result of water ingress or the natural process of oak and its tannins.

And this can be sanded off or wiped over with Methylated Spirits and this will be the problem area, as removal will depend on how deep the staining goes.

If you manage to get the wood back to its original condition then this opens up your options for a treatment of your choice. And if you are looking to use Osmo Oil then the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is a clear or lightly coloured oil that will slow down the silvering process and with regular maintenance can keep the wood looking fresh.

Or alternatively you could have a look at the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain which comes in a range of colours and should you have some minor marking still on the wood this can help to mask it. Both are available in sample sizes and I would always recommend test areas first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please feel free to get in touch via our contact page.

Hi we have a large amount of oak beams inside and oak doors currently treated with 4 -5 coats of liberon tung oil. I was wanting to look at finishing all the oak with a harder wearing coating. Iv also have large amount outside that I was going to treat with osmo oil is that the best thing. Thanks dan. For the most durable finish you could consider a varnish Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is surface sealer that will be hard wearing, comes in a range of of sheens and is non yellowing and low odour.

For a more natural look and feel but still with very good durability you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil this soaks into the surface of the wood and protects, it does have the benefit of being easier to maintain or repair down the line. Just two very thin coats is required for this product and so a little goes a long way. If you take a look at both products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

Always try a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved. Hi, your website is excellent and I have gotten great guidance! I would like your opinion on one matter…I am fitting an oak stairs and I really love the colour of the natural oak before application of a laquer…I feel the laquer yellows the colour but I prefer the natural grey tone to the wood.

What is the best way to preserve the natural colour on a stairs? Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. Many clear products will highlight the natural tones of the wood and enhance the grain. For a treatment that leaves the wood looking as untouched as possible but still giving a protective and durable finish you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Natural it contains a minute mount of white pigment that counteracts the darkening impact.

This product is available in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you do like the colour and finish that will be achieved. Hi, Excellent informative web site! I hope that you can help. We are building a porch which is clad in new oak with new oak posts. I have experimented with Sadolin woodstain and found that we prefer their heritage oak finish on this new oak.

We also have a new gable that will have new rough sawn oak fitted. I am attempting to see if we can end up matching the oak colours as near as possible on all three areas.

I have sanded an off-cut of the 60 year old oak to remove most of the black colouring which has revealed grey oak. I have then tried the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel that you recommended which has worked well so that we now have a light oak colour on the 60 year old oak.

I would like to know what you would recommend that we use on the 60 year old oak to both preserve it and colour it up to something approaching the Sadolin heritage oak colour and if the Sadolin product is suitable for sawn oak or whether there is something else that we should be using to both preserve and colour it.

Many thanks, Ian. You could try a test area with the Sadolin to see if the match is close. It is likely that the rough sawn wood will absorb more of the Sadolin than expected and this could impact on the colour, its really difficult to tell until you do a test area. But if you are able to use the same product this is the best option for getting the colours as close as possible. I appreciate that it has taken some time to get back to you and you may have completed your project but if you do need any advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.

Hello and thank you for this informative site. Other than a gentle dusting. We know the artist told us all those years ago to do something like wipe them gently with a soft cloth and then use something maybe tung oil? He has since died.

I would dearly appreciate any thoughts you might have to share with me and if you would require photographs of a few pieces before being able to make a reply I can provide them,. I would certainly love to see some of the sculptures, photos can be sent to helpme wood-finishes-direct. In terms of how to clean and protect you could have a look at the Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray This will eliminate any fungal spores before application of an oil and Liberon Pure Tung Oil will be a good option.

Its quite versatile and can be used on a number of different wood types. I would recommend test areas first and with each sculpture if it is a different wood then carry out a test area to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved. It will darken the wood slightly, I hope that helps but if you do have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

Hi, I am excited to find this website as I have been wondering how to treat our oak front door for years. The door is very likely as old as the house so The outside faces north and is reasonably well protected from rain and direct sunlight. The outer surface is silvery and faded, though not much in the way of black deposits. In places when I draw a finger across the grain it is a little uneven. I did try sanding it down but the sand paper kept clogging with wax, so I imagine it was previously treated with a wax preparation.

If possible I would like to find a treatment to restore the natural colour and protect it for the future. The inside of the door is in much better condition and a rich mid brown. Again I think it was wax treated. The door knocker is probably brass and there is no reaction around this, but the letterbox surround, lock and handle are likely black painted iron and there is increased whitening around these.

Would you recommend replacing these with brass? If it is a wax you have on the door then you could first look at removing this with Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover this will strip away all then waxy finish currently on there and you could then consider the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel to restore the wood back to its original colour.

Once the exterior is clean and bare and as you would like it you can then consider which treatment you would like to finish the wood with for the best protection. For coloured oil finishes a recommended product would be the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain colours and protects at the same time. And the darker the colour the more UV protection it will give.

And you may be able to find a colour that matches the interior. It is possible that the wood and metal used for the the lock and handle etc are reacting and I would be happy to take a look if you would like to send in some photos to helpme wood-finishes-direct. I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via a contact page contact us page.

Hi, Great website, very informative. I would be grateful for some advice: I was forced to cut down a big old oak tree as it was dead and unsafe. Most of the trunk was rotten but we have managed to get some timber from it.

I have about a dozen pieces approx 1. I know builders often work with green oak, but for windowsills I am concerned that if I use it as it is it will shrink away from all the edges, but am not sure if trying to get it kiln dried is a good idea either assuming anyone would even do a small job like that! Any advice would be appreciated!

Green Oak will shrink and move as it dries naturally, it can crack and age and this is why many people like using it but for window sills this could be a problem over time and my advice would be to allow the wood to weather. And as a guide it is estimates that 25mm will dry per year which show just how long it takes for wood to naturally dry. I do not know if kiln drying is a service that you are able to get as you say but we do not recommend application of anything during this drying process either.

I know that these are not the answers that you may have been hoping for but if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know. We have just had European Oak window sills fitted internally and would like to protect and finish them.

From other posts related for window sills it seems that a coat of Osmo Wood Protector followed by Osmo UV Protection Oil will be ideal for indoor conditions. It will ensure the the wood is super moisture repellent and slow down the silvering process if the wood is particularly exposed to sunlight.

The Oil will require just two coats very thinly applied and as with all of our products I do recommend a test area first. We have waxed oak fireplace, doors and skirting boards in our kitchen and they are quite a warm yellow toned colour. We want to change the kitchen and the worktop to something cooler toned.

Is it possible to change the colour of the oak without painting it. Many thanks. Can you tell me if the wax applied is clear and the yellow tones are the natural colours of the wood highlighted by the wax?

Perhaps you could send through some photos to wfdhelp wood-finishes-direct. Do you mean that you would like a lighten the look of the wood? Other than more wax there is not a great deal you are able to apply over the top as wax will repel most products, so you would need to look at removing all the wax first. This can be done by scrubbing with Barrettine White Spirit which will remove most if not all of the wax.

Some sanding may be required. Once you are back to bare wood this opens up your options for achieving the finish you want and if you can get in touch with some ideas via our contact us page and maybe I can narrow down some options for you.

We have recently moved into a year old house. The porch has 3 large, expose oak beams. They are quite a dull, dark grey and have several cracks in them.

Many thanks in advance. My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Oak Beams are very durable and hard wearing in their own right. But to give them a little bit of help will certainly prolong their life that little bit more and improve their appearance. I can recommend the Liberon Pure Tung Oil this will nourish the wood and offer moisture repellent protection to the wood.

As this is for exterior Oak beams you can apply up to 4 coats, particularly if the wood is very dry. Fantastic customer support here, thank you!. I have oak windows in an NE facing extension, originally coated in tung oil I think when built they have silvered but unevenly, no blackening that I can see but some splitting.

Should I sand back, use preservative and something like the log cabin treatment mentioned a while ago to keep it protected but still allow it to silver further? For wood that has silvered we often recommend the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel this with a little elbow grease can help restore the wood to its original colour.

This could give you a more even base for new application and also colour. When wood has silvered it takes colour in a different way and you may not get the expected finish, even with a clear finish. Applying a preservative will help to protect the wood from mould, mildew and rot.

And then a good quality oil to protect the wood and slow down the silvering process. If you take a look at those products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions, I am here to help. Anyway to repeat. We have a s house. We are replacing the door with something new however we still have the original doorstep…..

It was blackened and knackered looking however I have planed it and sanded it and it now looks really nice and has a really nice colour. What do I do next??? I want to keep the colour as it is? Help please!! Thank you for your enquiry. Threshold and doorsteps are particularly prone to wear and tear and we do not have a product specific to this area, however I often recommend Decking Oil as a good option. Decking Oil is designed for use on horizontal surfaces that are exposed and subjected to high traffic, the benefit of using and oil is that it can be topped up very easily when required to maintain that protection.

You could have a look at the Barrettine Decking Oil comes in a clear or coloured finish and a test area is recommended to ensure you like the finish to be achieved. Or alternatively and as it is just one very small area that needs finishing a sample tin of the Osmo Decking Oil is likely to be sufficient for two thin coats.

If you take a look at the recommendations and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Hi I am considering having an Oak countertop for my bathroom sink and some shelves. Will this be OK and how should I protect it? Is the osmo oil right for htis job? Many thannks. Using a wood oil such as Osmo is a good choice as it will protect the wood from moisture and is very easy to maintain and replenish as an when required.

Osmo Polyx Oil Tints White. We have an excellent blog post about white wood finishes here which covers this subject in detail.

It includes details on which products to use to achieve everything from a subtle whitewash through to an almost opaque finish. We always recommend trying some samples first on a small test area to check for suitability and final finish. If you have any further queries, please call or email us and one of our resident wood experts will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Even though the wood was cut a few month ago it is possible that it still has a high moisture content and my advice would be to check this first.

Particularly with Oak that is high in tannins. As wood dries naturally over time it can shrink or crack and will change in appearance, weight and moisture levels.

Applying a treatment will stop this natural drying process from occurring holding much of the moisture in. The table below, shows the sizes we offer. We do not offer custom made adaptors, so if the size you need is not listed, Sorry, we cannot help at this time.

You can unsubscribe from our newsletter at any time. Charnwood Machinery Ltd. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Search within this Product category:. Headstock Thread Adaptors Used for fitting scroll chucks, face plates and other accessories to a woodturning lathe.

Display Num 45 90 all. Our Products. Clocks Pewter Lids Bowls Projects. Mount Cutters Mount Cutter Blades. Router Tables Accessories.

Brand For Woodworking Noise Hand Plane Jointer Fence Grid