I should know better. Waterlox was my other Waterlox Finish Sticky Lighting option and for what its worth, theyre waterlox finish sticky zero very similar. Tip 3: Reuse, repurpose, recycle! If you get a stubborn sticky spot on it after Waterlox, try a paper towel with rubbing stticky, WD40, or Goo Gone first. Thanks again! Please shop early in case shipping delays occur.

See our Woodworking Solutions area for more information. It can be used by itself or with other Waterlox stains and finishes to achieve different colors and gloss levels. See our Countertop Solutions area for more information and product recommendations. It creates a durable, elastic finish that penetrates into the wood while also building a durable, protective layer on the surface.

See our Flooring Solutions area for more information and product recommendations. See our Doors, Cabinets, and Carpentry Solutions area for more information. It cannot hold up to regular direct sun exposure, but will perform beautifully on non-sun exposed projects like porch ceilings, three season porches and other similar situations.

It has been around since before HVAC in homes, so it does quite well in non-climate controlled environments, it just cannot hold up well to regular direct UV exposure.

See the Outdoor Solutions area for more information. It adheres well to almost any surface and can penetrate and seal other porous materials other than wood. Most common would be concrete, stone, and tile. Please visit the Non-Wood Surfaces Solutions area for more information. Some Waterlox products will require sanding, buffing, or screening the existing finish to provide a better surface for adhesion. Sanding is not required for other product families, but some sanding may be beneficial for removing scratches and other damage.

Surface should be well cleaned before reapplying finish. See above for more information. Raw Tung Oil is purely a penetrating finish, so it will blend in easily to the surrounding areas. Wipe on coats to the sanded or dry areas and wipe off excess. Apply coats as needed 24 hours apart until the wood no longer appears starved. The freshly refinished area will most likely be slightly higher in gloss at first, but it will blend in as the tung oil cures.

If you had to sand down the surface and ended up removing some color, start by reapplying some of the TrueTone stain by rubbing it in with a rag or lint free cloth. Wipe off any excess after 10 minutes and allow it to dry for 24 hours with a fan blowing on the area. For just replenishing the clear if it looks starved , simply wipe on some Buff-In Tung Oil Finish and wipe off any excess after minutes.

Repeat every 24 hours until the wood looks re-saturated and refreshed. Surface should be well cleaned before refinishing. If a conventional stain was used, reapply the stain to any discolored areas. Follow the directions for application on your particular product. Allow the stain to dry properly before continuing. Mix the stain and UTOS well. It is not recommended to exceed 1 part stain to 2 parts UTOS. Testing should be done for compatibility, final color and drying. Allow at least 24 hours drying if mixing together.

See below for reapplication instructions. Allow 48 hours of drying before applying finish over the TrueTone stains. While not a finish in itself, if you have worn your existing finish down to bare wood or have sanded down to bare wood you should start your repair by Waterlox Finish Sticky Yu buffing in the Universal Tung Oil Sealer UTOS to any exposed wood areas.

Allow to sit for minutes and buff off the excess with a clean rag, pad or towel. This product soaks into the wood fibers so it will only soak into areas where raw wood is exposed. Allow this to dry overnight. I have a prep sink in my butcher block island, and there has been minimal water damage around it. My children are really hard on the counters, so they will need to be redone this summer. I have had them for almost 9 years now, and have only had to redo them once since then.

This product can now be purchased online. I will only use this product as it has given me years of a beautiful countertop. I am hard on mine too. The sink area gets the most wear but after applying that sealer its fine. I like the way they have aged. If you do sand it down, try the Behandla.

It renews all the scrubbed spots. I have the butcher block countertop from Ikea as well. I finally convinced him that we could put varnish on it. It kept splintering every time it got wet with the oil. I also did not want to deal with the maintenance of the oil. I was not going to be chopping on it without a cutting board so I could have the varnish. I wanted it sealed permanently.

We went down to our local Benjamin Moore and told the man our dilemma and he recommended what they use to seal boats with. It was a Godsend! You could leave water on Waterlox Wood Finish Zero it for days and it stays puddled and will not penetrate through.

We only did two coats, it recommended 3. I would do the three just for the extra. We stained it first then used this. My husband also caulked around the sink with clear silicone for kitchen and baths.

If you use this, you will not be sorry. I would sand down what you have right now on it before you do this so that you have a nice clean slate. Lots of great information here. Can that be done at this point? Kristy, I love your blog and am sorry to see your hard work going down the drain pardon the pun!

I also debated leaving it natural to use as a functional cutting surface, but thought about how easily they could stain with my frequent usage leafy, green herbs, I smite you! For mainly that reason, I sealed them. I followed the very thorough instructions from a couple of DIY blogs and had great success using their recommended products and methods, as follows.

I applied three coats of Minwax Walnut stain I wanted it dark to contrast with my light cabinets and lightly sanded after the last coat of stain with grit sandpaper.

I finished with 6 SIX! So far, so good! I get a great bead on the finish applied Waterlox coats it until I did! I tell myself that it adds character… I still love my results, though and would recommend doing it in a heartbeat! Thanks so much for the info, Michele! So glad you mentioned it specifically! I do have plenty of Waterlox left…both the original and the satin.

Just not sure if I want to use it again. Decisions, decisions! No yellow! I was very afraid that I would have a repeat of the orangish yellow disaster that I had with the Waterlox last time. Use Waterlox again as the manufacturer indicates at least three coats, full drying between coats. You can even reinforce this image by going to a raw, rough piece of scrap wood and actually smoothing it with the green side of a Scotch Brite pad.

It will, in fact, smooth the wood like sandpaper. If you get a stubborn sticky spot on it after Waterlox, try a paper towel with rubbing alcohol, WD40, or Goo Gone first. The stuff is great! I DO have a few stains, from a metal canister that I left on it, and light spots from lemon juice trying to get the stains off, lol. But so far, really, this has been a nearly problem free and totally non-toxic solution.

Hi Kristi, I make and install wood counter tops made from large slabs of our local urban forest trees. I also make butcher blocks for local customers from our walnut, elm, maple, ash, and olive wood. I have found there are things that you can, and cannot do with wood or butcher block counter tops. IKEA butcher block counter tops can be made from either birch, or beech wood. Beech wood is much, much denser than birch, which can keep the stain coat right up on the surface.

As counter tops are a heavily used surface, it is normal for coatings on the wood to wear through over time. When the coating is a darker color than the under lying wood, that can be a problem. If you want the stain coat to continue looking good for many years, be sure to keep a good coat of waterlox over it. Waterlox is a great product, which I use in many of my own installations. It is easy to reapply every months by wiping on a new coat.

This will keep the wear limited to the waterlox layer, and prevent it from digging down into the stain and wood layers. At the end of the day, however, in an application expected to wear, such as a counter top, if you want your wood to be a different color, it is best to choose a different color of wood, rather than stain it. Hi, I use a Ronseal worktop oil on mine.

It has anti bacterial silver in it. It keeps the worktops looking great, and you just re-oil annually. That is the only problem with oak countertops, they wear down. I mean kitchen worktops are meant for you to leave things on there lets be honest so the fact it damages the material is what put me off having them installed in my kitchen.

Always intrigued by the choice to put in wood counter tops. Perhaps for an island or workstation, but around the sink? I half agree with Skeet, at least for use around the sink area.

I installed Ikea bb 7 months ago and tried curing with straight mineral oil first. Nah, took too much maintenance around the sink. Then Tung Oil — nope, same thing.

We are trying to decide between using Waterlox and Monocoat plus 2c. Did you find that to be correct? How did it hold up? If used correctly with the recommended number of coats , it awesome. Have you considered crystal clear epoxy self-leveling stuff? The research I have done says that the FDA considers all modern finishes to be food safe once cured. Which is why there are no warnings on paint cans etc.

It just never comes up. I have no qualms about using a low voc urethane finish to reduce maintenance. You can eat off these finishes, but you cannot cut on them if you want the finish to not look awful.

That said, it mentions that you can just use soap and water and paint another coat over it if it scratches anywhere. What people are telling you, tung oil, is Waterlox without the sealer in it. Consider hardwax oil. It IS food grade, and literally can be touched up periodically by wiping it on and off. Rubio monocoat is one brand, Osmo is another. Waterlox is an tung oil based finish with urethane added for durability and protection.

Regular tung oil, boiled linseed oil, walnut oil, mineral oil with or without beeswax etc will provide zero protection for your countertop. Waterlox also contains flatteners and driers in it to aid in dry time and even sheen. During that first months time it can be scratched and dented pretty easily. In the past ive used general finishes arm r seal for walnut countertops that I had built for my home.

Waterlox was my other option and for what its worth, theyre very very similar. From there ill wipe on thin coats scuffing in between with grit. After that, youll have a great finish that will hold up to most kitchen duties and spills.

If you need to refinish a countertop like that I would suggest sanding or scraping it down then cleaning it thoroughly with mineral spirits or naptha.

Id do it 2 or 3 times to make sure ive got it all off. Then start to reapply by brushing a coat on and wiping a few more thin coats. Before our kitchen remodel, we had butcher block counter tops in the sink area. Worked out well. Since the remodel, the butcher is now sitting in the garage and it still looks amazing. All I do is put mineral oil on them a few times a year. They are full service countertops, i do everything on them.

However, my maple countertops are not as dark as yours.

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