To use as a varnish, apply vihyl very thin coat with your finger or a brush. Nice article l must say! Vinyl sealer yellow sure to use a fresh cleaning pad, not the same one you used for dusting! Just make it thick vinyl sealer yellow and bake it properly. Next Holo Tutorial Updated Next. Thank you for sharing. Unbuffed, a sanded finish will be completely matte.

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Ultra Purple Part M Ultra Turquoise Part M Ranger Orchid Green Part M Ultra Blue Part M Ranger Admiral Blue Part M Ranger Black Part M Ranger White Part M Ranger Off-White Part M Carver White Part M Sea Ray Alabaster Part M Epoxy resin consists of two parts, part A and part B, which are mixed in equal portions.

Once mixed, a chemical reaction begins and the resin gradually hardens. It takes about hours to fully harden. Epoxy resin will not cure fully if the mixture is incorrect or if the mixture is not fully mixed before pouring. You can apply more coats. These resins are very similar in function and application to the epoxy resins, but they cure within 5 minutes when exposed to UV light using a special lamp or a bright sunny day.

Interestingly, UV resins are also used as clear-coats for automotive use as well. Just apply to your project, wait for it to level, remove bubbles, and cure. But it can still be messy. And the cure will be inhibited and the surface will remain sticky if you use it over paints or varnishes.

Because UV resins cure before they can run off your piece, they can be used on curved surfaces. Just brush them on. Wait just a minute for the brush strokes to settle, then cure under a light. You can do this with any UV resin, but Teresa Pandora Salgado sells kits which include a really nice resin and a big fat brush for applying her DeepShine Resin. You may have seen these liquids used to fill pendant bezels.

When poured thick, they will take a few days to fully dry, but they should dry clear and have sort of a resin effect. Dimensional glazes can be applied with a brush and used as glaze or varnish. All dimensional glazes are glossy — there are not matte versions available.

I am not fond of using this class of products with polymer clay. They are notorious for absorbing humidity and becoming cloudy over time. Some brands get sticky on polymer clay. Best for : Thick, glossy coatings. It is a high quality microcrystalline wax used to coat metals against corrosion and tarnish.

It will also enrich the appearance of materials such as tortoise-shell or ivory. It is archival. It can build up and attract dirt. Renaissance Wax does a lovely job enriching a smooth polymer clay surface. Just apply a thin coating, let dry for a few minutes, then buff with a cloth. This will work sort of like wetting a beach pebble and can enrich a dark clay surface. Wax can also change the appearance of surface treatments, such as paint, chalk, and mica powders.

I like to think of waxes as being a surface treatment themselves and not a protectant. Because waxes apply as a microscopically thin layer to polymer clay, they will do nothing to protect mica powder, glitter, paint, or metal leaf from wear or abrasion, and can even remove them. You will not get a glossy shine with a wax. Wax applied to a textured surface will be white and unattractive. There are other waxes which work just as well.

Neutral shoe polish and paste wax both work nicely on polymer clay to create a warm, enhancing sheen. But frankly, so does Vaseline, at a tiny fraction of the cost. Best for : Deepening and enriching dark colors, giving a warm sheen to smooth clay.

Liquid clays are essentially polymer clay without the binders that turn it into a putty. They have many uses, such as acting as a glue, a transfer medium, and a clay thinner. You can also use liquid polymer clays as a glaze or sealer. There are three main well-known brands of liquid polymer clay. You can read more about these liquid clays in my article on using them as a clearcoat here. Best for: Encasing inclusions, sealing surface treatments.

Always clay-safe. Also known as Kato Liquid or Kato Sauce, this liquid has the consistency and appearance of thinned white glue.

To use as a varnish, apply a very thin coat with your finger or a brush. Allow to level, then bake. After baking, you will need to use a heat gun to make the thin layer of clay crystal clear and shiny. Fimo Liquid used to be called Fimo Deco Gel.

It is a syrupy, runny, cloudy liquid. Apply to your clay, allow to settle, and then bake. It will become clear during baking. Of the three main brands of liquid polymer clay, Fimo Liquid is the only one that will remain fairly clear when cured in a thick layer. To use as a varnish, apply to the clay in a thin coating. Allow to settle and level, then bake.

This stand-by, also called TLS, is similar to the other liquid clays and can also be used as a glue and thinner. But it does not bake particularly clear. Thick layers will be opaque. It can be effectively used as a varnish, however, by using a cosmetic sponge to dab the TLS onto your clay surface. Wait a few minutes for it to settle and level a bit and then bake.

Afterward, thin layers will be invisible, but the surface will be matte. If you use a heat gun on cured TLS, it will become glossier, giving a satin finish. Baking it in the oven at normal clay-curing temperatures will result in a cloudy finish. It really does need the high heat of a heat gun.

It will be just slightly less shiny than Liquid Kato. Spray varnish seems like such a perfect solution. But sadly, very few brands of spray varnish will work with polymer clay. MOST of them will be softened by the plasticizer in polymer clay and stay sticky. PYM II now discontinued and nearly impossible to find is a unique spray acrylic coating that does not stay sticky and works well with polymer clay. Multiple coats will give a more durable finish, but do let it dry between coats.

Many thin coats is far better than one thick one. Read about my experiments with spray sealers here. Helmar Crystal Kote Matte is another spray varnish that works well with polymer clay. It is nearly invisible on your project.

You will want to use a spray varnish when you need to quickly seal and stabilize surface treatments such as mica powders, chalks, and glitter. Sprays also work nicely to apply a varnish coating onto textured surfaces. Best for: Sealing surface treatments, especially mica powders. Great on textured items where varnish would pool.

Clear embossing powder is popularly used in crafts because it can be melted in a special melting pot and then used as a clear coating material.

UTEE can be used to coat polymer clay projects, giving a thick, clear surface like resin. It can turn cloudy over time. It is also easily scratched. Best for : Not recommended as a polymer clay glaze, sealer, or varnish. Therefore new polymer clayers sometimes advocate its use as a glaze, sealer and varnish as well. It is available in glossy, satin, and matte versions. It is white and dries clear. But Mod Podge does not make a good polymer clay glaze or varnish.

It is very difficult to apply without obvious brush strokes. After drying, if it dries at all, it can stay sticky in high humidity applications.

Water left on the surface will turn white and the Mod Podge will soften. I strongly recommend this not be used as a polymer clay glaze, sealer, or varnish. Woodworkers know that cyanoacrylate CA can make a fantastic coating for wood. But it works very well with polymer clay as well. Cyanoacrylate is also known as superglue. And yes, some varieties of CA are specifically used to create a tough, durable, and clear surface coating. Liquid Fusion is a urethane glue that is slightly amber colored and crystal clear.

It can be poured on the surface of flat polymer clay and left to dry. When done well, a sanded and buffed smooth polymer clay surface is considered by many to be the best finish. Sanding and buffing is hard to beat because there will never be any brush strokes, stickiness, cloudiness, or other chemical incompatibilities. Unbuffed, a sanded finish will be completely matte. Buff it a bit for a warm satin sheen.

If you properly buff smooth polymer clay with a high speed buffer, you can get a finish that is just as smooth and glossy as resin or glass. If you want to know how to get an absolutely perfect shine on polymer clay with sanding and buffing, with minimal effort, I recommend that you check out my Sanding and Buffing eBook.

It is a comprehensive page guide that explains everything I know about sanding and buffing. I discuss the types of sandpaper, kinds of buffers, using tumbling machines, Dremel, varnishes, and even whether you even need to sand at all.

If you want a shiny, smooth polymer clay surface, this eBook will get you there. I would like my finished items to look natural as they are but still use glaze to protect them from dust. Should I use satin or matte finish? Thank you! Have a look at this article here: Do you have to seal polymer clay? Hello, I already used fimo gloss varnish on some polymer clay jewelry but I would like to use sculpey bake and bond instead of superglue to attach the posts.

Is it okay to bake after the varnish was already applied? Thank you!!! Yes, you can bake varnish. Be aware that it will likely soften in the heat, so varnish might mar during baking and will need a touchup. Thank you for all you do! I used polyurethane on white clay, and thought it would be a good idea to cure the piece for another 10 minutes or so. I regret doing so as the clay now looks yellow.

Can I sand off the polyurethane or will that make matters worse? Thank you, Ginger! The shapes would be set among cutouts in the wall tiles, thin set underneath and grouted in place. I have a wall mural with a blue heron as a centerpiece for the main shower wall and want to play off that with more texture and dimension — and polymer clay shapes came to mind.

Dipping them in resin was going to be my waterproofing solution, with the understanding that i would need to pay close attention to assure complete coverage since resin does run. Your idea is great.

Polymer clay works beautifully in that situation. But skip the resin. Polymer clay does not need to be sealed. It is vinyl. As always, terrific and informative article Ginger! And to do it well you need the ebook. If you are using a sealant to protect a painted surface, is it important to match the brand of sealant to the clay? Can you use Fimo on Sculpey and vice versa, for example? Hi, I would like to make a clay product that can withstand dropping over and over again.

I would like to know if there is anything that comes to mind that can keep it from breaking eventually? Properly baked polymer clay is quite durable. Just make it thick enough and bake it properly. How thick is thick enough? Or a link where you explain those two things? Thanks Bunches! I love how thorough you are. Getting the ebook now. Really appreciate it. I am trying to make a snow globe for my niece. Do you know anything about best sealants for acrylic paints and snow globes?

I recently did a project with cheap modelling clay that dries on its own. What would you recommend? Any suggestions for a great eco-friendly waterproof sealant for this kind of project? Use whatever you feel comfortable using.

Thanks, Ron. I saw that lots of people had the same questions and wrote the answers all in one place to save everyone the trouble.

Glad it was helpful! Hi I just recently did a project with Polymer clay. They will be used on a bathroom sink so they could often get occasionally splashed with water. How can I seal this. I am understanding in your article its not typically required to seal it after baking and curing. However, this powders where applied after the fact quiet a bit before in the molds??

I want it to have a shiney finish. Polymer clay itself does not need to be sealed the way that wood or paper does. But the surface treatments you apply to polymer clay DO need to be sealed if the item will be subjected to wear. I would use a clay-compatible varnish for this. Take your pick from the ones listed in the article here: Testing 41 Polymer Clay Sealers.

Woah, I cant thank you enough for responding and your follow up advice was very helpful thank you so much!!! I am planning to make a snow globe using polymer clay for the figures, but am more comfortable with acrylic painting rather than trying to use various coloured clays. Do you have any advice? Many of them will soak right off. I would make the figures completely out of colored polymer clay. Hi can I ask, I am making bauble with Sculpey III just to use it up, I would like toco er it with glitter and I thought of using mod Podgorica and then pour glitter over.

But reading post on glues it might not be a good idea, can you recommend something else.

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