Do you have wasted space under your stairs? Once the front panels are held in place you can drive a series of small screws in through the drawer front to the front panel to hold firmly in place. Lastly, using a chamfer bit in a router will give the edges a clean edge that will under stairs drawer kit quizlet less likely to suffer damage from minor bumps from everyday use. You can do this by measuring the distance between them at the front and back to ensure the distance is the same. I applied two coats with the roller with a brush around the edges. More by the author:. I find that making the cutting blade as under stairs drawer kit quizlet as possible reduces the amount of burning on the edges.

Step 6. Once the frame for the runners is complete you can begin to build the drawer itself. This should be quite straight forward and can be anything you like. For the shoe drawer I include one shelf and made sure there was a back panel to prevent shoes falling out. Remember to ensure the drawer is completely square and the dimensions measure the same at the front and back. Any slight variation here is going to prevent the drawer from sliding in and out easily.

Step 7. With regards to the runners, try something like these. I decided to get the soft close version and had to make sure that they could manage the weight of the drawer and the shoes. Check the load capacity before buying.

Also check the length and extended length for the runner to make sure it will extend far enough for easy access. Step 8. I fitted the runners to the frame first, then slid the drawer onto the runner and screwed in the from the side. It required a little bit of fine adjustment to get it all lined up correctly but the runners have elongated screw fixing points for exactly this purpose. Step 9. The next job is to fit a handle or knob and fully test the drawer.

Try adding some WD40 to the runners for a nice smooth action. You can remove the drawer for a light sanding and finish off with a nice paint job.

This was all a relatively easy construction and most competent DIYers can do this. Go here to see how i made […]. July 2, February 20, Ben. Building the support frame Step 5. Building the drawers Step 6. Some of these images should help you: Adding the runners Step 7.

Complete under stair drawers. Like this: Like Loading As plywood is multiple pieces of wood sheets glued together, if you are to screw into the end grain without a pilot hole you will force the single sheets apart and your plywood will split. A decent pilot hole will prevent this from happening.

Lastly, make sure you are using a screw that is partially threaded. That is a thread for most of the shaft but a smooth section of the shaft by the head of the screw that will not bite into the top piece of wood. This will allow the pieces to be pulled together when you screw them up tight. I started by fixing the bottom and two sides of the drawers together first.

This allowed me to use two spacers on each side to sit the shelves on before screwing them together. This ensures the shelves sit level. Pull out the bases fixed to the drawer runners as far as they will extend and carefully place the drawer units on to them. If you have larder heavier drawer units you may find it helpful to have someone help you lift them into place.

Next take some time to ensure they are in the right place, push the drawers in and out by pushing and pulling the bases to ensure the drawers conceal completely under the stairs and they they aren't fouling on anything as they are pulled out. Once positioned in place they need to be screwed into place.

You could now just screw down from the top into the timber bases, however you will see the screw heads on your drawer surface so a cleaner look will be to screw up from the bottom. To do this, use wood clamps to hold the drawer to the base so that both drawer and base will stay attached to each other and you can use the release mechanisms on the drawer runners to remove both parts from the frame under the stairs.

TIP: If screwing in from the bottom, make sure you check the length of the screw isn't going to piece through to the top side of the bottom shelf on the drawer. The front panels are the decorative fronts that you will see when the drawers are closed.

I used a thinner sheet of MDF for my drawers. I chose MDF as it has a smooth finish and I wouldn't have to do too much to prep it to make it look like its part of a hidden drawer. I checked the measurements twice for this piece, and allowed for a 5mm gap around each drawer front. Rather than cutting each drawer front individually, I cut a piece to fit in the the space where the wall was and then cut down into drawer sections last.

This meant I would have accurate edges that would align perfectly. I cut the sheet down on the table saw so that the bottom and sides were the right size. The sheet was too large to cut the angle of the table saw sled, so I used a circular saw and a straight edge to cut the angled edge. I find that making the cutting blade as shallow as possible reduces the amount of burning on the edges.

Once the sheet is the right size it can be cut into the pieces to cover the front of the drawers. At this point it's worth checking it fits and checking where each drawer starts and finishes to make sure you're cutting in the right place.

Lastly, using a chamfer bit in a router will give the edges a clean edge that will be less likely to suffer damage from minor bumps from everyday use.

To fix the front panel to the drawer, first wedge the drawer forward so that the drawer is sticking out and you have a solid edge to push against. Use a small amount of hot glue on the MDF front panel and stick it to the drawer that is sticking out. If your hot glue gun is set to a hot temperature you will have seconds working time before it dried solid. Use this time to align the front panels so that they fit in place perfectly.

Once the front panels are held in place you can drive a series of small screws in through the drawer front to the front panel to hold firmly in place. There are a variety of push to latches available.

I first used a magnetic push to open mechanism but the drawers were too heavy for them and tended to bounce back open if they were closed too firmly. I changed these to a mechanical 'loft hatch' latch which worked much better. I got these off EBay. If I had made the drawers a little deeper I could have fixed the latches directly to the drawers, but as I had a bit of space between the back of the drawer and the back wall I screwed these to a scrap of plywood that would stick out the back of the drawer.

I stuck this piece of wood to the drawer with double sided tape, this made it possible to adjust the positioning before screwing in place. Another scrap piece of wood fixed to the back wall held the 'hook' that the mechanism grabbed on to. It took a few attempts to get into the right place, but once aligned I took the drawers back out and screwed the latches down. For the front panels I wanted a smooth finish so that the drawers would look like the were part of the wall.

I contemplated emulsion but after some research went with a water based wood paint. I used a small roller to apply this. Once dry I used sand paper to knock down the bumps on the end grain of the MDF which swell when wet.

I then applied a water based sating finish top coat. I applied two coats with the roller with a brush around the edges. Some people don't mind the look of plywood edges, but I wanted to solid wood effect to used an edge banding to cover these up. I used an iron wood veneer edge banding that was wider than the thickness of the drawers. It is easily cut to length with a knife or pair of scissors and ironed on on a high heat setting. Once dry you can trim down the edges with a sharp knife or edge banding tool.

Try to leave a slight overlap to you can sand the remaining edge back flat. TIP: when trimming wood veneer edge banding, sometime the grain runs away from you and can split over the top of the clean edge, if this is the case, try cutting in the other direction so that the grain is running away from you finished edge.

If I had to do this again I would have applied the edge banding to the pieces before assembling the drawers. I found it tricky to trim the edge banding off on the corners of pieces where they had been screwed to another face. Also if applied before assembly the width of the edge banding can be taken into consideration to ensure flush edges.

I have dark wood flooring throughout my house so wanted the internal wood colour to match the flooring in my house so I used an interior 'walnut' varnish that gave a much darker finish. I applied with a brush but found brush marks were hard to get out. Next time I would try applying with a foam pad or maybe even a roller to get an even streak free finish. The trim around the cut outs was my last step, but this was only so that it didn't get damaged with me taking the drawers in and out when building them.

The trim was hard to find from any online retailers other than Ebay. I used a white PVC 90 degree trim strip that had one longer and one shorter side. The longer side went inside the drawer leaving a thin finished edge around the front of the drawer. For the corners at funny angles, I overlapped the pieces and lined my knife up with the overlap to cut a perfect angle. I'm surprised with how well this worked! And that concludes this instructable. I hope you enjoyed following it and can take what tips you can for making you own set of hidden under stairs storage drawers!

If you liked this, check out my YouTube channel. Great post. Thanks for sharing. And sharing the links to the latches and runners etc. I finished mine this weekend using this and it worked great! Still to paint it but the wife doesnt know what colour yet! Reply 6 days ago. Question 9 days ago. Hey, incredible video and guide, so helpful at the moment doing this for myself. Any ideas? Not sure why my photo is upside down but you get the idea!

Answer 9 days ago. My runners are fixed right to the edge flush with the surround, perhaps this could be the issue? How do you know how far to set the runners back if this is what I need to try? If my space is 80 cm deep what length runners would you recommend? Do you often open yours all the way up? Reply 2 months ago. If it was me I would go with a runner of around 80cm to make the most of the space.

You could get away with a little less providing you can still access the back of the drawer if its not fully extended. Mine open all the way up. Looks great!. How strong are those latches in pushing out the drawers, as my drawers are significantly heavier looking and wondered if those you used would be up to the job? Reply 5 months ago. They're pretty good. This is the best type of 'mechanical' latch I found. There are a lot of magnetic options out there that don't hold the drawers in very well.

If they didn't push the drawers out enough I was planning on using an additional spring at the back of the drawer to push them forwards. It was going to to be something like a 'unitstrut' back nut with the spring attached which I'd screw to the back of the drawer, but I never need to use them. Been building these however mine do not "pop" out and I think they need a handle. Is there anything I could do to ease them sliding out as they are a bit stiff?

Could it be the runners quality or is it more likely that they are not running parallel? Reply 8 months ago. More than likely they aren't parallel, level level with each other or level along their opening path or all of the above!.

My top "bedroom" drawer had the same issue and took me half a day adjusting it. It was a nightmare. You can take measurements between them to check for them being parallel. I found the best way was measure diagonally between front of one runner to the back of the other. If both measurements are equal you'll know they are parallel. Also use a a level to check they are the right height to each other and running out level. I used penny washers to pack them out when they needed it.

Hope that helps! Hi, I am in the process of making this incredible project, I have now completed the base and now onto the the scary part!! I was wondering if you think a 12mm softwood would be strong enough for the draws? Thank you. I think in general it will be OK. If they're sat on a strong base there is less force on them. You might have an issue with the wood splitting if you screw them together if the wood is thinner.

Pilot holes for screws will be essential! Many thanks for coming back to me - The drawers will be around 22" wide and 33" in depths, so I would imagine 18mm hardwood would be my best bet. Again, thank you, I hope to share images when completed. Question 1 year ago on Step 5. Your drawer slides.

In my case, I have a depth of 33" from the back wall to the front of the upright 2x4.

Rockler Products Australia Zone Best Small Workshop Air Filter 00 Cabinet Hardware Hinges Near Me Roll