Plane Or Jointer First Value,Hidden Magnetic Locks For Furniture Nz,Mini Hand Saw For Crafts Kitchen - Test Out

18.10.2020
Others Others. I then use the toothed blade to flatten the face of a rough mahogany board. Because the plane body is somewhere between a smoother and a jointer, it may not be as perfectly suited for those tasks as the specific individual tools might be. For me oe plane or jointer first value was a necessity. You picked the best of the bunch. Link to post Share on other sites. This can also be done on your tablesaw if a bandsaw is unavailable.

I think a lot of people would think a thickness sander is very important, but drum or belt. Drum works well but has no where near the capacity of a belt of course belt costs a lot more. I would talk to Jeremy on this subject. He has invested in tools for his production.

He can give you some perspective based on experience. Most builders around here don't build in volume, but the ones that do will be your best source.

A jointer was the first power tool I bought I already had access to a 14" bandsaw. No regrets at all. A thickness planer was second.

If you plan to build a lot of guitars, you'll get better deals on raw wood if you can find a local supplier who sells it "in the rough", not planed down, stuff that you can hold in your hands before you buy.

If Is A Jointer Plane Necessary Values you have access to one or more such dealers, then a thickness planer is a good investment. I do, and I have one. If I have tearout rarely, I change my knives very often then I'll bust out the random orbital sander and have at it.

A bandsaw is also a must. Again, if you will build a lot of guitars and use figured wood tops, you can save money over the long haul by resawing your own tops. In that case, you'll need a big bandsaw with at least 7" cutting height capacity. If not, a smaller one will do.

Lots Jointer Planer Combo Helical Value of people buy expensive exercise equipment with all the good intentions in the world, then lose steam and end up using them to hang clothes on. Be realistic about how many guitars you'll actually build over the next 5 years or so, and price out these three tools. Then make the smart decision one way or the other. I think you should worry more about finishing off number one, before you start looking at spending countless dollars when you have indicated in another thread that you have a limited budget on machinery you may not need, because you have bored of the idea of building guitars.

But hey, im just some dude who sees probably a hundred people a year start building a guitar cause i supply their parts , yet only a handful get finished I'm simply gathering opinion on the most useful tools, as at the moment I have some money to use for tools, and wish to spend it in the right way.

I don't want to buy something that in the long-run the money would have been better spent else-where. I have a planer, a delta 12", its not big enough for most one piece bodies, 2 Piece yes and its great. I am currently gathering parts to make a thickness sander, I figure a hundred bucks in parts maybe. I'm also designing a homemade oscillating sander.

I may design it to drop in the router slot on the extention. I have figured out there is no need to buya tool when you can make it cheaper. I haven't noticed the edges being rounded over with my drum-type thickness sander, I have noticed it when I used a wide-belt thickness sander, though. The cantilever kind are probably tougher to get truly flat, however, thickness sanders are the tool you want if you are thicknessing figured woods. I agree with Wes on this one, that does seem a Plane Or Jointer First Zoom little steep to begin with.

I too own a thickness planer, and I think it is a pretty decent addition to the shop. However, it does have problems with figured woods and to counteract that I am forced to spray the wood with water to keep tear out to a minimum.

Even doing that, I have to take very small cuts to keep from destroying the piece. I have been using hand planes for 1 year now and am nearly to the point that I can plane a 36" X 36" table top without leaving ridges or cups in the surface 5 ridges and 2 cups on the last try. With that being said, it takes me nearly as long to machine plane figured wood as to hand plane it. I don't have any experience with the thickness sanders, though.

What blade are you using? One of the Diablo style blades with the stabilizing cuts or one of those blades with the brass inserts to stabilize? I'm sure you know that if your blade has any play at all you're going to get a less than flat joint surface out of a table saw, so with that said I'd love to see your jig. Thickness sanders are very nice.

Great for figured wood. I can prepair very thin laminates for necks and bodys,binding and so on. Planer is not a good choice for thin applications. Planers remove material much faster if you need to remove a lot of material, with a thickness sander and 36 grit you can remove a lot of material it is just a pain. Both have advantages. A thickness sander can take blanks and tops down to grit which is a nice.

I think several guys are using the Jet around a grand. So many good tools so little space and money. Jointers don't just joint egdes, they are used to prepare a face of the board square to an egde to make thicknessing easier. On larger jointers you can also cut rabets. I'll get some pics of it for you, as for the blade its a dewalt fine finish blade, time for a new one though Agreed but the way I do it is: first I plane in the middle of the planer no edges touching the sides then move to the "cross cut slide jig" put both peices together in the middle dead center so the blade cuts both peices just like the book match, clamp them down and make the pass, since the are not touching the jig any where but the flat i just planed it squares the edge.

Sometimes no need if your cutting out a design and just need the glue joint. I'd advise someone starting out to get the bandsaw first then the jointer then the planer or sander. Rigid and Dewalt consistently take the prize in reviews.

I have a Jet which has a lot of design problems, but does a geat job on even difficult wood less than 12" wide. You haven't told us how you are set up for routers. By the time it's said and done you may wind up with more in routers total than any one stationary tool.

Thanks for the info Doc, unfortunatly all the units you mentioned aren't available to me as i'm in the UK, although i'm currently looking at three Bandsaws. DeWalt, Draper and Perfom 12"units.

I'm ok for routers at the moment, that was my first investment. I'm also building a table for it, so i'm all good for routers! Of course your edges will still be rough. To clean those up you have several options: trim with a circular saw and a saw guide, trim at the table saw with a jointing jig, trim with a hand plane, or trim at the router table.

Admittedly none of these solutions are perfect but remember, this is a temporary situation. Until then, the planer will provide a lot of additional functionality that can make a real difference in your productivity. The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Thank you for making this possible.

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