Bench plane synonyms, Bench plane pronunciation, Bench plane translation, English dictionary definition of Bench plane. any plane used by carpenters and joiners for working a flat surface, as jack planes, long planes. I use a variety of hand planes, bench planes actually, in the day to day of making, writing and filming because on the one hand I want to use what people can get hold of and afford at a reasonable price and I tend feel a little nauseous when snobbism displaces proven technologies that worked for - kind of creeping culture went.  It’s well proven to a world-wide audience that all well-sharpened, well-set planes will work and work well, with only an odd few exceptions, which has indeed meant that more people today recognise that you don’t need much fancy stuff to create the very finest of fine woodworking. With that said, one of the working-man’s planes of its day remains a favourite of the bench plane range for me, it’s the Woden plane. Definition of Bench plane in the Fine Dictionary. Meaning of Bench plane with illustrations and photos.  Related words - Bench plane synonyms, antonyms, hypernyms and hyponyms. Example sentences containing Bench plane. Join Our Free Trial Now! Most manufacturers used brass for their depth adjustment nuts, but not all. In this case, a very sharp and finely-set blade is required. By continuing to use this plane bench meaning solution, you agree to their use. That way the middle is lower than the ends, so the first time I get a full plane bench meaning solution cut I stop. One drawing shows a large pull-out armrest in the center, evoking the llane of spacious seating arrangement fliers yearn for. The smoothing process of wood using a hand plane is going to be one of the last steps you're going to do and is considered more of a finished type of plane because of that reason.

I own a jointer plane,not a jointer. I take the 4 to the edge right off the table saw. I agree. I, too, have come to prefer a shorter plane when finessing and chasing errors like the person asking the question describes, and would use my 5 with a cambered iron so that a varied depth of cut across the width can be achieved by moving the plane sideways , followed by a final light pass or possibly two with my 7.

I find I get much better feedback through the hands from the 5,I suspect because of the lesser width, length and weight compared to the 7, but also that with the 7 I too often introduce a new error at the same time as I remove a previous one.

Do you think that could be part of it? My L-N block plane is moving up fast, however! But yes: I have used the 5 considerably more than the 7, and that should be factored in. So even from that vantage point of much increased affinity, I will still say that I experience a noticable better tactile feedback from the 5. I, by the way, am about to embark upon same.

My current workbench sometimes seems to have more in common with rickety picnic tables than anything a woodworker would rightly claim as a workbench! On the contrary, I was glad of the opportunity to add clarity about the relative worth of my thoughts on the matter at hand. And thank you so much for your kind words! As for my workbench, Chris was kind enough to include a link to my blog on the build in one of his recent posts here.

Just so I can see the photos, if nothing else. I hear of folks who joint-plane every edge square, straight, and true, and I bounce between reactions of envy and disbelief. Given my own current skills with a plane, whether it be a jointer, a jack, or a smoother, this would be…difficult. We need to remember to respect the many variables that are in play on the field of hand woodworking.

God be with ye, my friend. The tool addict in me wants one! Please consider a group photo and maybe a blog post some day. Another option would be to build an extra long krenov style laminated plane. They are easy to make and you can use the same iron from your 8. I built mine from leftover big box store oak. I have found that by marking a line on both sides of the board, Then plane a bevel on each side to the line then use the 7 or 8 to take out the point you just made gives you a nice edge that is 90 deg and straight.

Finally ended up buying a LN N8 and clamping a block of wood cut to a perfect 90 as an edge guide. I can now reliably get a 90 but there are still a few gaps a few thousandths here and there. I was so glad to read your blog post, as I am struggling myself.

They may end up warping. Could it be that the match of the Stanley Bailey no. I have Hock blades and breakers in nearly all of my Baileys and Bedrocks. They perform wonderfully. After I restored a Bailey no. I could never get the Hock blade edge set properly in the throat, even after endless adjusting of the frog. Skips and dust instead of curls.

I set the no. Apples and oranges of course. The no. So, I reinstalled the restored original Stanley iron and breaker in the no.

I put my experience down to over engineering. This is not a knock on Ron Hock because his stuff is top shelf.

But it did make me wish for a Bedrock no. I had to file the front of the throat on my Bedrock 8 to use a Hock iron. I do resist making irreversible modifications, particularly in this case because I have the original iron and breaker that function quite well. Maybe I should look for a no. Thanks for your suggestion.

Does that introduce the rocking that requires a fence? I use a 8 but wish I had a 7 for jointing. I set up the iron like a smoother with a very slight camber, so I can dial in 90 degrees with very slight lateral adjustments. I built a 9ft. Table top a couple of summers ago and I chased my tail trying to get a descent joint ,finally got some sidewalk chock I stole from my grandson painted one board clamped them up ,an every high spot showed up.

Bailey iron bench planes were designated by number respective to the length of the plane. This has carried over through the type, regardless of manufacturer. A typical smoothing plane approx.

A designation, such as No. Planing wood along its side grain should result in thin shavings rising above the surface of the wood as the edge of the plane iron is pushed forward, leaving a smooth surface, but sometimes splintering occurs. This is largely a matter of cutting with the grain or against the grain respectively, referring to the side grain of the piece of wood being worked. The grain direction can be determined by looking at the edge or side of the work piece.

Wood fibers can be seen running out to the surface that is being planed. When the fibers meet the work surface it looks like the point of an arrow that indicates the direction. With some very figured and difficult woods, the grain runs in many directions and therefore working against the grain is inevitable. In this case, a very sharp and finely-set blade is required. When planing against the grain , the wood fibers are lifted by the plane iron, resulting in a jagged finish, called tearout.

Planing the end grain of the board involves different techniques and frequently different planes designed for working end grain. Block planes and other bevel-up planes are often effective in planing the difficult nature of end grain. These planes are usually designed to use an iron bedded at a "low angle," typically about 12 degrees. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Redirected from Bench plane.

Tool for working with wood. A Japanese plane in use. Hampton, E. Clifford: "Planecraft", page 9. Hampton Ltd. Mercer: "Ancient Carpenters' Tools", page Bucks County Historical Society. Archived from the original on Retrieved Cutting and abrasive tools. History Glossary Wood lumber. Frame and panel Frameless construction. Category WikiProject Commons.

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