Remove the remaining waste by chiselling it away with screwdix mortise chisel of the same width as the mortise. Cranked paring chisels are especially helpful for trimming the plugs used to hide screw heads. Carefully rest the thumb of your free hand against both the timber and the side of the blade to steady marking knife screwfix native guide marking knife screwfix native cut. This could result in a mortise consisting of a series of diamond shapes, or with jagged edges instead of clean, smooth edges. When these offcuts are placed together, they should form a right angle. When turning natlve workpiece, use outside calipers for measuring the diameter of spindles, and inside calipers for measuring the internal diameter of bowls and other hollows. To keep the guide marming moving, hold it in place with a vice.

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Fit the retaining nut onto the spindle and twist it several times to ensure that the thread is fully engaged. Do not tighten the nut onto the collet itself. Dovetail groove cutter Cuts dovetail housings pp. Straight groove cutter Used to cut straight, square-section grooves and housings; can be used to cut out mortises pp.

Do not allow the shank to touch the far end of the spindle. Bearing Retaining nut Spindle Lock the spindle using its buttonor lever-operated locking mechanism to prevent it from freely rotating. Using a spanner, fully tighten the retaining nut. Cutter blade Closely inspect the cutter to ensure that it does not sit too close to the collet or retaining nut, as this may restrict its movement.

Round-over cutter Used together with bearings of different sizes to cut ovolo and roundover types of convex mouldings. Cove cutter Used for cutting concave mouldings; the bearing acts as a guide along the edge of the wood. Cutters are available in a range of shapes and sizes; the following cutters will enable you to carry out the majority of routing tasks.

This rod is aligned with one of the depth stops mounted on a revolving turret on the sole plate of the router. By setting the gap between the end of the rod and the stop on the turret, the downward travel of the motor housing is halted at a predetermined point.

The side fence is a guide that determines how far in from the edge of a workpiece the cutter will sit. It also guides the router in a straight line along a workpiece. Plunge down the router until the cutter touches the surface of the workpiece. Lock the motor housing into this position by depressing the plunge lock — usually located on the back of one of the handles.

If required, adjust the height of the remaining stops using a screwdriver; this will allow Marking Knife Screwfix 300 you to make different depths of cut without having to re-set the depth-stop rod. Fix a short length of smooth timber to the fence.

This timber will butt up against the workpiece and, being smooth, will glide easily along its surface. Remember to attach it to the correct side of the router to allow for the direction in which the cutter rotates. Make trial cuts for each depth of cut setting in offcuts of wood. Measure the results and make any further adjustments to the router as necessary. Place the router on the workpiece with the cutter in the correct position to make the cut.

Slide the fence up to the edge of the workpiece and lock it into position. This hood contains the dust and waste produced while routing; it is attached to the hose of a vacuum extractor, which extracts and collects the waste.

Many vacuum extractors are automatically activated when the router is switched on, and turn off approximately 10 seconds after the router is switched off. Fitting a dustextraction hood Screw the base of the dust-extraction hood into position on the sole plate. Some models allow for the hood to be clipped into place. For the system to work effectively, it is important to ensure that there is a tight seal between the hood and the vacuum extractor hose.

This is useful in situations in which you need to cut a groove or housing so far in from the edge of a workpiece that a fence will not reach. Housings are normally cut using a straight-sided parallel cutter. If the correct size of cutter is not available, use a smaller one and make repeated cuts until the required size of housing is achieved. The best way to cut a straight groove is to use a side fence. Mark out the position of the groove and place the router on the workpiece, aligning the cutter with the groove markings.

Slide the fence up to the edge of the workpiece and lock it in place. Use an offcut of timber to cut a trial groove to check that the fence is set correctly; adjust if necessary.

Never start or stop the router when the cutter is in contact with the workpiece. Workpiece Side fence Timber cramped either side of workpiece Position the router and fence on the workpiece. When steadied, switch on the power. Release the plunge lock after making each cut. Allow the router to fully rise and the cutter to clear the workpiece before switching off the power. This describes a circle in the same way as a pair of compasses. A trammel can be made very simply in the workshop, using a material such as thin MDF.

When setting the depth of cut on the router, you must remember to take into account the thickness of the trammel and adjust the setting accordingly. Drill a large hole at one end for the cutter, and a small hole at the other for the pivot. Ensure that the large hole aligns with the cutter. Plunge the router and start the cut. It is simpler to do this in sections to prevent the cable and extraction hose from becoming entangled.

Always cut in the same direction. While methylated spirits will do the job, there are more effective and environmentally friendly cleaning agents available. First spray on the cleaning agent, and then scrub the cutter with a tooth brush. Do not hone the bevelled cutting edge or you will alter the diameter of the cut.

Leave the cleaning agent to work for a few minutes until the resin is soft enough to remove. An old toothbrush is ideal for removing the softened resin.

After brushing off any loose dust, apply the cleaning agent. If several cutters need to be cleaned, it may be easier to stand them in a small pot of the cleaning agent. Do not work on the outside edges or you may alter the dimension of the cut. You will need to create a template of the required shape from a board material such as MDF as the bearing needs a smooth edge along which to run, MDF is particularly appropriate.

The cutter length depends on the thickness of the edge you are cleaning up. Ensure that the bearing is positioned to run on the template, and that the cutter covers the full thickness of the workpiece. It is especially important to accurately position the bearing if the template is very thin. Cutters are also available with the bearing mounted at the top. The workpiece is fed into the cutter instead of the router being moved across the workpiece.

Using a router table makes it easier to control the cut, as both hands are free to feed in a workpiece, and the cutter is clearly visable.

The width is set by an adjustable fence mounted behind the cutter. Use push sticks to feed in a workpiece, and support it using featherboards. You can either buy a proprietary router table, such as the one shown, or construct one yourself. When used safely and correctly, they are a great labour-saving device. Three types of saw are available: circular saws, jigsaws, and reciprocating saws, although the latter is more suited to DIY tasks than woodwork.

Circular saws and jigsaws can perform most of the jobs that do not require more heavy-duty machine saws, such as table saws pp. This assembly is carried inside a body that allows the blade to be both raised or lowered to give cuts at different depths, and also to be tilted to make angled cuts. There are two types of circular saw. The second type has an adjustable sole plate. As the saw is lowered, the base plate stops moving once the blade reaches the preset depth.

This type of saw performs plunging cuts as well as standard cuts. Both are ideal for carpentry work and cutting timber and manufactured boards to a rough size prior to machining or trimming with a plane pp. Power saws can be either mains- or battery-powered. Mainspowered saws provide more power than cordless saws, but the cable can be restrictive. Batterypowered saws are more convenient to use, but may need recharging several times a day. You can also use the guide marks on the sole plate for freehand cutting.

Circular saws tend to produce a coarse cut, especially when used freehand. Always support the workpiece when using a circular saw. Always keep the left hand on the other hold, unless you are using it to raise the guard. Apply steady pressure on the circular saw as it cuts to avoid the machine from bouncing up. To set the blade of the circular saw to cut at an angle, release the anglelocking lever.

Set the blade to the required angle and lock the lever back. The cut is made in the same manner as a vertical cut. However, the maximum depth of the cut is reduced because of the angle of the blade. Due to the narrow sizes of the blades used, jigsaws can be used to cut curves as well as to make straight cuts. The blades of basic machines move straight up and down. However, jigsaws with an orbital or pendulum action cut into the work on the upstroke and away from it on the downstroke.

This back-and-forth swinging action aids in chip removal. You can adjust the extent of the pendulum action to get the desired result. Some blades are designed for fast cutting, while others are best suited for curved work. Jigsaw blades are disposable and need frequent replacement because the relatively short length of blade quickly becomes dull.

It can also be used with its own fence to make cuts of uniform width, or you can guide it with the help of a rail a guiding tool cramped to the workpiece. Select a drill with a diameter just larger than the blade width. Avoid any breakouts by using a scrap piece of timber under the workpiece. With the saw turned off, insert the blade into the hole and lower the sole plate onto the workpiece. Ensure the saw teeth are not touching the wood before starting the saw. Start the saw and move it forwards, until the waste can be removed.

Always stop the saw before removing it from a cut. Coarse teeth allow the blade to cut fast Specialist blades A narrow blade with small teeth top allows the saw to turn quickly, which enables you to cut curves with small radii. A blade with downward-pointing teeth middle is useful for cutting worktops, as it cuts wood on the down stroke and does not cause breakout on the top surface.

A blade with coarse teeth bottom enables fast cutting. Set the pendulum action to maximum when using this blade. As well as hand-held power sanders, there are a number of benchmounted sanding machines available that are suited to the home workshop. For large-scale commercial work consider using pad or drum sanders. Similarly, hammering in nails by hand can be taxing, so try using a nailer for jobs that include a large amount of nailing. There is a wide range of sanders and nailers available.

Always wear a dust mask when sanding. Orbital sanders An orbital sander is used to sand large surfaces. It has a relatively large sanding pad that moves at high speed in an elliptical motion tracing a circular path. While this may be acceptable on wood that is going to be painted, these marks can be unsightly. To minimize this problem, the random orbital sander below was developed.

These machines have a circular pad that moves in random orbits. The paper is held in place with a Velcro system. A soft pad can also be attached to turn the sander into a polishing tool.

Vent carries dust from wood surface to bag Palm sander A palm sander is a smaller version of the random orbital sander. The paper is held in place with a lever cramp and is easy to change. The replacement abrasive paper should be of an appropriate grit size. Fix the new paper onto the pad, making sure that you align the dust extraction holes in the abrasive paper with those that are on the pad.

Grip the sander use Marking Knife Screwfix Zoom both hands for larger models and move it slowly over the wood. Sand the whole area equally. Avoid applying too much pressure, as this can wear out the sander and result in uneven sanding. Belt sanders remove waste very agressively, so you should always take great care when using this tool. Available in a range of sizes, you can choose between hand-held and bench-mounted models. As with the circular abrasive papers used with orbital sanders left , sandpaper belts are available in a variety of grit sizes.

When replacing a belt, always check its alignment, as the machine and belt may be damaged if wrongly placed. Using a spindle sander is the best way to sand curved edges and other shaped woodwork. These machines are ideal for smoothing complex surfaces, such as the inside edges of concave curves. Spindle sanders use replaceable spindles, or bobbins, for the sanding operation. Spindles are available in a range of sizes depending on the job.

To increase the life of the abrasive paper, some machines have a spindle that oscillates vertically, spreading the wear over the length of the spindle. Keep moving the workpiece to avoid grooves from forming due to over-sanding.

Hand-held belt sander Attachments are available to help prevent hand-held belt sanders from digging into the wood. Due to the large amount of dust created, vacuum extraction is recommended. Always take extreme care when operating a nail gun, as it can be a dangerous tool.

Be very careful when working with thin materials, as there is a danger that the nail will pass straight through the workpiece. While nail guns can be used with a range of nail sizes, they will not take every size of nail.

It is important that you choose the correct machine for your needs. Mark the workpiece with a pencil or a bradawl p. The nails will be pushed straight into the workpiece. A typical blade has a diameter of —mm 10—18in ; the larger the blade, the deeper the cut it can make. Although some table saws are available with heavy cast-iron tables and folded steel-plate bodies, modern table saws are also made of aluminium.

Cross-cut fence A basic modern table saw has a side fence for guiding the workpiece and a blade that can be raised, lowered, or tilted. Most models have a Diagram Of Marking Knife 2020 sliding table which, combined with a tiltable blade, enables the woodworker to cut compound angles.

This is similar in design to the table saw, but has a sliding table used to perform very long cuts, and a side carriage that is large enough to carry sizeable boards through the saw. Take care when using or handling a blade, as its teeth, which are usually made of tungsten carbide, are brittle. It is important that you are aware of the risks, take proper safety precautions, and undergo appropriate training — especially when using powered cutting tools.

Follow the correct procedures at all times, and never be tempted to rush a job or take short cuts. When ripping, it is important not to allow the timber to move out of position as you feed it towards the blade, as the workpiece may become trapped between the blade and the side fence.

To avoid this, position the fence so that its end lies approximately 25mm 1in behind the leading edge of the blade. Set the saw blade as for ripping left but, if cross-cutting with a sliding table, do not use the side fence. This is to ensure that the offcut does not become trapped between the fence and blade. For the best results, use a crosscutting blade. Adjust the blade height and position the fence to the required size.

Remember to adjust the fence so that its end rests just behind the leading edge of the blade. Fit the cross-cut fence on the sliding table. Set the blade to the correct height with the help of the blade-height adjusting wheel. Move the side fence out of the way. Feed the workpiece into the blade. Set the required length on the cross-cut fence.

As your hands get closer to the blade, use push sticks to move the workpiece forward. Never let go of the wood — one hand or a push stick should always be controlling the workpiece. Set the workpiece against the fence and the end stop. Hold in place and push the fence forward to make the cut. Move the fence back and away before making any adjustments.

Isolating switch All table saws should have an isolating switch. This is used to disconnect, or isolate, the saw from its power source. Once the machine has been isolated, you are safe to make adjustments or carry out repairs.

Crown guard A crown guard covers the top of the blade — you should never operate a table saw unless this guard is correctly in position. An extraction system sits on top of the crown guard to carry away excess dust.

On some table saws, you may have to adjust the sliding table to allow clearance for the tilted blade. You will also need to bear in mind that the maximum height of a cut is reduced when the blade is tilted.

For narrow cuts, you may have to alter the fence as the blade will restrict its movement. The blade passes through a table that holds the workpiece. Available in a range of sizes, band saws can cut curves and perform deep ripping cuts — a task impossible on a table saw pp. Most woodworkers use narrow band saws. Wide band saws are also available, but are reserved for specialist projects.

Band saw blades are available with a variety of different tooth counts — measured as teeth per inch TPI — and in a variety of widths. Floor-mounted band saw A more stable and powerful machine than the bench-mounted band saw, this machine is ideal for making heavy ripping cuts.

Most commonly used for cross-cutting, it is a highly versatile tool although not all radial-arm saws are designed to make rip cuts, which can be very dangerous. You can also rotate the arm to cut the wood at a variety of angles. Start the machine. When the blade has reached full speed, start feeding in the workpiece, using the fence as a guide. As you reach the end of the cut, use push sticks to feed the workpiece safely onto the blade.

Choose the widest possible blade for the tightest section of curve and use an offcut waste piece of timber to guide you. Make a series of straight relief cuts perpendicular to the proposed curve. These relief cuts will reduce the tension between the board and blade, and ease tension on the saw. This will avoid the need to withdraw the workpiece from the blade when cutting which can pull the blade off its wheels. You will not be able to use a band saw to cut shapes holes in a sheet of timber — for that you will need a jigsaw p.

Draw the proposed curve on the workpiece with a pencil or marking knife p. Make a series of relief cuts at right angles to the curve, stopping very close to the line. Start cutting along the curve. As you proceed, the waste will fall away as each relief cut is reached, making it easier for the band saw to move around the curved line.

You will also need to replace a blade if it becomes blunt. Make sure that you check these guides regularly. Band-saw blades can be resharpened, but it is more usual to dispose of the blade.

Take care when uncoiling a new blade. Make sure the machine is isolated see Work Safely, p. Open the top wheelhousing of the machine to expose the top wheel. Carefully release the blade guard. Release the tension on the blade by turning the tensioning wheel in an anticlockwise direction. Loosen the blade so that you can take it off the wheel with ease. Wearing protective gloves, remove the blade from the wheel and slide it out.

Hold the blade in one hand and steady it with your foot. Turn the blade over so that it folds into coils.. Loosen all the blade guides by unscrewing the knobs on the sides. The guides are used for keeping the blade in place and stopping it from moving sideways. Release the thrust bearing. This provides support to the blade from the back.

Position the blade within the guides. Turn the tensioning wheel to add a little tension to the blade. At this stage, do not over-tighten the tensioning wheel, as you may need to make a few adjustments. Turn the wheel by hand and check for sideways movement in the blade as it runs through the guides.

Make adjustments until the blade moves with no lateral movement. Set the blade to full tension as determined by the blade width by adjusting the tensioning wheel. Re-check the guides and adjust them if necessary. Run the blade under power to check that it runs smoothly.

Listen carefully to the sound it makes. If you hear anything unusual, isolate the machine and make further adjustments. Similarly, adjust the guides to the same width in the bottom wheel-housing. Planers are used to smooth faces and edges, while thicknessers shave off wood to produce sections of uniform thickness or width. The cutting action is achieved by a series of knives set in a circular block, with the number of knives ranging from two on small domestic models, to six on large industrial machines.

Small-capacity machines are available for the home workshop. Planer-thicknessers To save space, a combination machine called a planerthicknesser has been developed. The in-feed table can be adjusted to control the depth of cut. A bridge guard covers the cutter block and can be adjusted to the width and thickness of the wood being planed. The fence can also be moved back and forth to accommodate the workpiece.

The fence is set square for most tasks, but can be angled at up to 45 degrees for planing bevels. The planing tables can be lifted to reveal a lower thicknessing table. Converting the machine between planing and thicknessing modes takes about two to three minutes.

If the surface is bowed concavely from side-to-side, it is likely that the machine will plane unevenly; adjust the pressure on the wood as you feed it through the planer to avoid this.

If the surface is cupped convexly from side-to-side, the board will rock; you should either hand-plane it with a jack plane p.

Unsecured tables are a safety hazard and may result in uneven work. These smoothed surfaces act as a reference for subsequent work, helping you to achieve parallel surfaces. Unlock the in-feed table, adjust the depth of cut the amount of wood you want to remove , and then relock the table.

You will have to pass the stock across the planer a number of times to achieve a smooth surface. Adjust the bridge guard to the thickness of your stock. Always ensure that the fence is square to the bed of the planer, or at the desired angle to create a bevel.

Check that the feed-rollers are in gear most machines have a lever that engages the drive mechanism. Once the feed-rollers grip the workpiece, let it go and allow the rollers to take it through.

Most machines have a micro-switch that breaks the electric circuit if the cutters are exposed — the machine will only operate if the guard is in position. As for planing, do not use stock that is smaller than mm 18in in length.

After feeding in the stock, move to the other side of the machine to support the workpiece as it emerges, keeping it level.

However, keep in mind that the bench-top thicknesser is only designed for cutting workpieces to the required thickness. Fence locking-lever Planers Woodworkers sometimes use a separate machine, called a planer, for smoothing the face and edge of a workpiece.

These bulky machines are found only in large workshops, where a separate thicknesser will also be present. A planer has the same features as the planing element of a planer-thicknesser left. However, its table is longer, allowing it to smooth long pieces. An advantage of using separate machines is that several operations can be performed simultaneously.

The lathe spins the workpiece around a central axis of rotation at a constant speed. You can then shape or sand the workpiece symmetrically by holding a handheld cutting tool or abrasive paper against it. Headstock delivers turning force to drive centre using a drive spindle Woodturning lathes Modern lathes — some of which can be controlled by computer — consist of a head- and tailstock mounted on a horizontal bed, together with a tool rest, locking lever, and adjusting wheel.

When working between the drive and live centres, you can use the same basic technique to mount a workpiece, although there are several types of centre to cope with different shapes and sizes of workpieces. The most basic arrangement involves a 2- or 4-prong drive centre in the headstock, and a standard degree live revolving centre in the tailstock.

Find the centre of one end grain by drawing diagonals between the corners. Repeat Steps 1—2 on the other end grain of the workpiece. Insert the appropriate drive centre into the headstock. Fix the workpiece by placing one of the end-grain centre holes on the drive centre. Hold the workpiece parallel to the lathe bed and slide the tailstock up until its live centre engages with the other hole.

Lock the tailstock. Lock the tailstock centre in place inset. Gouges have curved blades and are used for the initial shaping of the wood, as well as for forming beads rounded, convex sections , coves rounded, concave sections , and hollowing out bowls.

Parting tools are used to form grooves and shoulders, and to plane surfaces. There are also specialist lathe tools for more advanced woodworking. Gouges Roughing gouges are used for the initial stages of turning square stock into a cylinder.

Spindle gouges, often used next, are thinner with a rounded tip, and are useful for forming coves. The handle of a scraper should be angled slightly above the tool rest or roughly horizontal. Maintain this steady contact to ensure good control. When turning a workpiece, use outside calipers for measuring the diameter of spindles, and inside calipers for measuring the internal diameter of bowls and other hollows.

While you can adapt alternative tools to do the same job — such as a pillar drill p. Machines called tenoners are also available for cutting the tenons that slot inside mortises, but these are larger machines suited to production workshops. Some bench-mounted mortisers have a manoeuvrable head that can be used on a variety of different-sized timbers at a variety of angles. Floor-mounted mortiser Mortiser bits There is a wide range of mortiser bits available, with each one consisting of a square, outer chisel, which cuts the wood, and an inner auger, which removes the waste.

However, you should avoid plunging the machine too quickly as this can lead to the chisel overheating and becoming damaged. Adjust the height of the chisel to give clearance for large timbers and to place the handle at a convenient height — you can even sit down for some types of work.

Lower the chisel into the timber but do not cut too deeply. Space the cuts so that the last one is made using the full width of the chisel inset. If it is set up incorrectly, the chisel may not sit squarely on the workpiece. This could result in a mortise consisting of a series of diamond shapes, or with jagged edges instead of clean, smooth edges.

A smaller gap could lead to wood fragments becoming trapped, or the auger and chisel coming into contact with each other. Either scenario will generate excessive heat, which can severely damage the bit. Use a small coin to correctly measure the gap. Grub screw Insert the auger into the mortiser and lightly lock the grub screw.

If the angle of the chisel looks a little tilted, release the grub screw again and, using a square p. Remove the coin and slide the chisel up to the collar. Tighten the grub screw. The chisel and auger are now set with the correct amount of spacing between them. When the chisel and auger are in place, check the gap between them by pressing on the side of the auger.

If there is no movement, there is no gap. Cramp the workpiece onto the table use a scrap of wood to protect the workpiece and use the control wheel to adjust the position of the table to align the chisel with the mortise.

Push the auger fully up into the chisel and hold both pieces tightly against the coin. Lower the chisel and align it to the marking. Start the machine and check that the auger is running freely in the chisel. When you are ready to cut, bring the handle down to lower the chisel onto the workpiece and then start the machine.

Raise the chisel up before moving the workpiece sideways as you proceed with the cut. Similar to a mortise-and-tenon pp. Dowels and accessories Use a drill bit of the same diameter as the dowel. The design of the dowel affects the performance of the joint, so it is important to choose the correct type. Dowels can be used individually or in multiples, and it is important to correctly align each side of the joint for an effective and attractive connection.

Use a centre point above right to align the holes for a single-dowel joint, or a dowel jig below to align the holes for a multiple-dowel joint. Align both parts of the joint and press together.

The centre point will mark the position for the second hole. To maximize the strength of the joint, insert the dowel to the same depth into each piece of wood. Bush Use a dowel jig to align the pieces of timber to be connected. Use a power drill p. Drill through each hole in the jig, using the bush to help keep the drill upright. The jig will enable you to align each hole correctly, and to drill a series of holes in one continuous operation.

E-cramp keeps timbers correctly spaced Collar governs depth of hole Pocket-hole systems Kreg jig The Kreg drill allows a series of pocketed screws to be drilled into a workpiece at the required angle. A cramp holds the workpiece in position. Stepped drill bit inserted into guide hole Cramp A pocket-hole system is used when it is necessary to hide a screw head, or when it is not possible to drill from the outside of a joint. A Kreg jig is used to make the acute-angled, pocketed counterbored holes necessary for this type of joint.

The stepped drill bit allows both the pocket and the pilot hole to be drilled in one operation. Self-tapping screws Use steel self-tapping screws with the Kreg jig. These are stronger than wood dowels and exert a large amount of cramping pressure, which forms a solid joint.

They are available in three sizes: 0 smallest , 10, and 20 largest. Align the centre line of the cutter with your pencil mark and machine the slot. Use a biscuit jointer to cut slots that are slightly larger than the biscuits being used to allow for any minor adjustments.

Glue the biscuits into position. Domino-based systems Domino joints are similar to small mortise and tenon joints pp. The slot, or mortise, is formed by a cutter that both rotates and oscillates laterally. The cutter can be set to the required depth and width, while the fence can be set square or angled.

Attachments help with awkward shapes or for making a series of cuts. Special friction pads prevent it from slipping when pressed up against a workpiece. Cutter depth gauge Friction pad Sole plate Domino Cutter and domino sizes Dominos and cutters are available in a variety of matching lengths and thicknesses. Changing the cutter in the jointer is a simple task. Use one hand to steady the tool against the workpiece, and the other to depress the jointer and form the cut. The fence can be adjusted for different thicknesses of timber and to match the angle of the joint face.

While there are many different ways to drill holes in timber, such as with hand or power drills pp. To produce such precise work, a pillar drill is the most appropriate machine to use.

Pillar drills have a movable drilling column that — in conjunction with drill bits of different sizes — can be used to make holes of varying depths. As well as being capable of vertical drilling, some pillar drills have an adjustable head that can be rotated for angled drilling, and most have an adjustable table that can be raised, lowered, or tilted.

Both types, however, must be bolted down, as they are top-heavy and can be unstable especially when working at the end of long workpieces. However, for most small woodworking workshops, a benchmounted machine is usually adequate. The required speed of rotation depends on the material being drilled and the size of the drill bit being used. This often involves changing the position of the drive belt on a series of pulleys. However, always remember to turn off the power before making any adjustments to the pillar drill.

Alternatively, use G-cramps or jigs to hold and position the work. To set the depth, lower the drill to the required depth by rotating the depth-gauge and stop-wheel on the side of the machine. To change the bit, use the chuck key to open the chuck to the required size. Insert the drill bit to be used and then retighten. Check that the drill bit is perfectly centred in the chuck. When you have aligned the workpiece, start the machine and turn the wheel to lower the drill onto the timber.

Drilling will stop automatically when the desired depth is reached. If the holes will be visible on the face of the workpiece, place an offcut underneath as you drill. This will prevent any breakout on the surface of the timber as the drill emerges. Screws come in various lengths and diameters, and have heads in different designs to suit the work at hand.

When using traditional woodscrews, it is advisable to drill both a pilot and a clearance hole so that they are easier to drive in. This also prevents the timber from splitting. The choice of head depends on the desired look and the pieces being joined together.

Brass slot-headed screws Brass round-headed screws Used predominantly when appearance is an important factor, these metal screws are relatively soft. They are therefore easily damaged if used with a screwdriver of the wrong type or size. Brass screws are also liable to break if the pilot hole is too small.

This makes the driver less likely to slip. Most, however, will become loose if there is any movement in the pieces being joined. Pins are thinner with smaller heads. Used to attach two components together that still need to move relative to each other, hinges are available in a wide range of styles and sizes.

Always use the correct hinge for the job, such as a table hinge for a drop-leaf table, and check for quality — for example, each one of a pair should be exactly alike and move smoothly on the pivot. They are less noticeable than brass butt-hinges. The thinnest types are used to hold veneers.

Similar in operation to standard soss hinges, soss barrel-hinges are held in place with a tensioning mechanism rather than screws.

Available in different styles, concealed hinges are invisible from the outside, and allow for a range of opening angles and thicknesses of material. Ample lighting is essential. Planning a workshop layout Obviously the more space you have available the better, as it will enable you to work on large-scale projects as well as accommodate specialist equipment that will help speed up your work.

It is possible to work in a very small space, but you may have to limit the size of your chosen projects, and work with hand tools and power tools alone. Alternatively commandeer a garage, or build yourself a substantial workshop if outdoor space and permission allows — however, do consider the impact of machinery noise on your neighbours. The plan view of the workshop layout shown opposite employs a space 7. Each grid square represents x mm 1 x 1ft. Your workshop is likely to be a different size and shape from the one shown here doors and windows will also fall in different positions so you will need to rearrange everything to suit your requirements.

Find some gridded paper and use the scale of one grid square to represent x mm 1 x 1ft to help you design the space. Use the machinery sizes shown in the main diagram as a guide. The workbench area needs good lighting and is best near to a window, and each machine needs space around it as indicated by the blue arrows. Mobile on rollers or balls, it can be used with any of the machines used here. This is a handy place to store off-cuts for completing projects or making jigs.

Fix to the ceiling to keep it sturdy. Consult your local council website for advice. Wood products can be burned, or small amounts disposed of with your household rubbish. For trade waste consult your local council website. These have telescopic support legs. Alternatively, opt for smaller table saws, a radial arm saw, or a compound mitre saw on a stand. This is a place for mounting a bench grinder and a bench vice.

The more shelving, cabinets, and drawers you have available the better. Over time you will accumulate many hand tools and power tool accessories that should be organized and stored in order to preserve them in good condition, while leaving maximum space for working.

Power tools are normally kept in cabinets. Keep planes or chisels on a shelf to avoid damaging the cutting edges. Use low cabinets to store power tools and accessories. Site near to a window. Shavings are collected in a reusable bag. Always keep at least one spare blade, and preferably a range of blade widths for different radius curves.

Fix to the top of a sturdy bench with bolts. Position a shelf or cabinet nearby to hold woodturning gouges, chisels and scrapers. Choose one with a powerful, quiet induction motor, cast-iron tables and a cast-iron fence. The type of workbench you choose will depend on a number of factors, such as whether or not the bench needs to be portable, and the height at which a workpiece needs to be supported. If possible, choose a bench that has drawers and cabinets for storing tools. The bench should be as sturdy as possible, as this will prevent movement during use and will allow it to withstand heavy impacts, such as those caused by a mallet p.

The most important item on any workbench is the front vice, which is used to hold a workpiece securely in position. Other useful features include a second vice end vice , which is usually located at one end of the bench.

Small purpose-built workbenches are also available. These are portable and can be folded away. Despite their small size they will carry a considerable load when locked in the open position. Controlled by handles, the rear half of the benchtop acts as a vice. Handle of end vice Holes for plastic pegs Sturdy legs Shelf for storage Folding frame Storage cupboard Workbench This workbench is made of beech and features a tool well at the rear — used for storing tools while working — and bench dogs in both vices.

Bench dogs are used for additional support when holding items in place. Bench hooks A bench hook is used to hold timber in place on a workbench. It is a useful addition to any bench and can be bought or easily constructed by the woodworker. These cross timbers allow it to be hooked over the edge of the workbench. Sizes vary, but a typical bench hook measures x mm 10 x 10in. Using a vice is preferable as it eliminates movement and leaves one hand free to hold the workpiece.

Slide the workpiece forward until it rests against the back cross timber of the bench hook. Hold it in place with the heel of one hand, while using the thumb of the same hand to guide the edge of the saw.

This bottom board is wider than the top board and extends out to the side. It is along this board extension that a plane pp.

The plane then trims the edge of the workpiece. Check that the front cross timber is square to the upper board. Rest the side of the plane on the bottom board. Press its sole against the upper board. Push the workpiece up to the front cross timber and against the plane. The best way of checking that the cross timber is set to the correct angle is to trim two offcuts.

When these offcuts are placed together, they should form a right angle. A large vice is generally more versatile than a smaller one because it can hold a workpiece in a variety of different positions.

A large vice is also easier to tighten as the load is spread over a wider area. To speed up the process of adjusting a vice, quick-release mechanisms are available.

This means that any minor damage to the cheeks can be planed off, which will prolong their usability. Cut the cheeks from offcuts of hardwood. Aim for a width of —mm 8—12in ; the top of the cheeks should sit just above the bench top. Mark positions for screw holes. Metal dog in front jaw Back jaw Dog locking screw T-handle Cast-iron vice Many woodworkers choose to work with a castiron vice.

For supporting a workpiece, the model shown here has an adjustable metal dog peg , which can be lowered out of the way. Drill countersunk holes in the cheek where marked. With the back cheek in position, drill pilot holes into the workbench and screw it into position. Place the front cheek in the front of the vice and align both cheeks.

Tighten the vice. Drill pilot holes through the screw holes in the vice and screw the front cheek into position. However, the serious woodworker may wish to consider adding some specialized tools and pieces of equipment to his or her workshop — especially those wanting to concentrate on a particular aspect of woodwork, such as antique restoration pp.

All woodworkers, however, will need to keep their tools sharp, and investing in a grinding wheel, for example, or a selction of sharpening stones, could be a wise investment. Grinders Motorized grinders are used to grind the blades of tools such as planes pp. To remove large amounts of metal, you will need a high-speed grinder. However, for general re-sharpening, a motorized whetstone is preferable.

Always wear protective goggles. Sharpening stones Bladed tools must be kept sharp, so you will need a variety of sharpening stones made from either natural stone or synthetic materials, which are generally more affordable.

Most stones should be lubricated before use: as the names suggest, oilstones are lubricated with oil, and waterstones with water. The steel plate is coated with diamond grit and the holes in the plate capture the swarf. Available in various grits or as a combination stone. Man-made oilstones and waterstones of various grits are available. A grit stone is coarse and used for initial honing or restoring an edge. Lubricate with water oil will damage the stone. Again, a combination stone is a popular choice.

Lubricate with oil. This means that it will require less re-grinding, increasing its lifespan. Make sure you use the correct lubricant with each stone. Avoid making sideways movements, with the guide as this may damage it. To sharpen a cabinet scraper p. This sharpening tool has a cylindrical blade made of a particularly hard steel, which is not marked or damaged by the sharp edge of the cabinet scraper. Scraper burnisher Used during the process of sharpening a cabinet scraper, most scraper burnishers have an attractive hardwood handle and brass ferrule.

This burr is created and angled by a scraper burnisher. You will know when a scraper needs to be sharpened because it will form dust instead of shavings when drawn across timber.

The edge of the cabinet scraper must be straight and the corners must be square before it is sharpened. Place the scraper on the edge of the workbench and run the burnisher along the long edges of the scraper. Angle the burnisher downwards slightly to raise the burr. Glue has long been used to join wood traditional animal glue is still used by some woodworkers and restorers , and is often the strongest part of a joint.

You should keep more than one type of glue in your workshop, as different glues have different properties, and therefore different advantages for the woodworker. For example, slow-drying glues are useful for complex joints that will take time to assemble, while fast-setting glues may be more appropriate for smaller, quicker jobs.

To create a strong, even bond, it is important that you apply the glue in a controlled manner. The best way to do this is to use a brush or a roller. Aim for an even coating of glue on all surfaces but not so much that there is an excessive amount to clean up.

If you have mixed the glue yourself, pour it directly onto the largest surface. For gluing small components, decant a small amount of glue into a plastic tub, such as an old yoghurt pot. As most glues are water-based, evaporation plays a key role in the curing process. The time taken for a glue to cure is therefore affected by its rate of evaporation, which in turn is affected by the ambient temperature — the warmer it is, the faster the process, and the less time you will have to make any adjustments.

Be aware, however, that in cold conditions a glue may completely fail to cure. Three types of glue are of most use: PVA, polyurethane, and powdered-resin wood glue. It is easy to spread and forms a strong bond, although it leaves a grey glue-line and melts if sanded.

The curing process relies on cramping pressure and water evaporation. Although cramps can be removed after just one or two hours, it may take up to 12 hours for the glue to cure completely. This is a durable, water-resistant glue that is ideal for outdoor use. Since it relies on moisture to cure, it is useful for gluing timbers that already contain some moisture.

Applied directly from the container, most types can be painted. It is stronger than other glues in end-grain-tograin joints, but can be messy to use. Use equal amounts of powder and water. Start by adding half of the water. Mix well to form a smooth paste before stirring in the remaining water.

A roller is useful for applying glue to large surfaces, since it can help spread the glue evenly and quickly. Start from the centre and work outwards, making sure that the edges, in particular, are well covered. Applying glue straight from a bottle For some jobs — such as running a line of glue along the edge of a board above — you can apply glue directly from the bottle.

Use a brush to apply glue to joint areas, such as mortises and tenons, and for accessing hard to reach places, such as dovetail sockets and dowel holes.

A brush will help you to apply an even coat. Cramps are also used to check for squareness. This is a vital consideration — if just one section of a piece is not square, it can affect the whole work. Different jobs require different types of cramps and you should always keep a good selection in your workshop. The key to successful cramping is careful preparation. It is also a good idea to plan your work so that gluing up is the last job of the day. You can then leave the glue to cure overnight although you should never leave glue to cure in very cold conditions since it may fail.

When gluing a square or rectangular frame or carcass, it is important to check that it is square as soon as the cramps are in place, as you will need to make any adjustments before the glue has cured. To do this, measure the length of each diagonal.

If they are equal, the frame is square. A try-square can be used to check small pieces. Cramping mitre joints There are several ways to cramp mitre joints.

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