Launching Plane Maker. Opening and Saving an Aircraft. Creating an Aircraft File.  For the most part, this manual assumes basic knowledge of the X‑Plane user interface-in particular, it assumes knowledge of how to open and fly an aircraft. The best way to use this manual depends on what you need from it. If you’re already a master of Plane Maker, it probably makes sense to just keep this document around for reference. If instead you’re coming to this manual as a guide for a complete walkthrough to creating your first aircraft, it probably makes sense to read through in this order: About This Manual (this page). Bill Anderson shows how to use an 18th Century style wooden jointer handplane to joint a board's edge for glue-up. This comes from the video “Building a. Veritas® Bevel-Up Jointer Plane. View Additional Info: Instruction Guide ( KB, PDF). View images (2 total). Product Highlights: Sole is 22" long, /8" wide and accurately machined flat. Body made of stress-relieved ductile cast iron.  Veritas® Bevel-Up Jointer Plane, PMV® Steel Blade. Accessories. A. 05P Replacement A2 Blade, /4", 25° Bevel. 05P Replacement O1 Blade, /4", 25° Bevel. 05P The answer is simple. It was a very large plane turned upside down with legs on the one end. Over here in The Netherlands I find very often 75 cm and sometimes jointer plane plane analysis 90 cm long wooden planes. The cast iron body makes it durable hence can serve you for a long time before breaking down. As with other hand planes, jointer planes were originally made with wooden bodies. Longer planes exist, but they are often mounted on tables and not manually moved back and forth. So why all the confusion?

You get this effect with all planes but with woodies the effect is most pronounced. It because far easier to joint something free hand because once you get used to the sensation you can feel when you are out of square. The long Stanley 28" transitional plane no. By the time this plane was available however almost every cabinet shop in the US of any size would have used powered machinery to do basic jointing and planing, and there wasn't really much of a call for long planes.

In use compared to a regular iron Stanley they are at best mediocre. I included three that I don't use here. It's just too heavy for regular use. Of course by the 's there was less and less call for long planes and production was never very high. Behind the Norris jointer is a 's Norris A72 22" wooden jointer plane. This is a collectible rather than a working plane.

They suck. Norris in a depression era bid to lower the cost of their tools grafted the Norris mechanism onto a fairly random Beech body. The mouths are wide and it's not uncommon for the cheeks to be cracked. You find them in good cosmetic condition because they weren't used much. The long plane in front of the Norris jointer is a C.

The being the premium line of Stanley No. I find the tool way to heavy for regular use. In my toolbox I have a Bedrock 22" long - the same length as a regular No 7 which I like a lot, use, and is long but a lot lighter than the 8. Lie-Nielsen and Clifton make long planes, we have a Clifton no. I find the modern 8's and 7's planes unwieldy for a long sessions of planing.

The English use the term "Panel Plane" to describe planes that are too long to be smoothers and too short to be very accurate jointers. These planes are a wonderful size and perfect for dressing timber in most cases. In the front on the left is a C. It predates the typical construction of a panel plane and internally it is more like a mitre plane, with the bevel down but a mouth cut in and the sides wrapped around. As antique tools go these shorter infills are far more common, although it's important to get Ulmia Jointer Plane Zip one in good original shape, and too much "restoring" can lessen the very properties that make these planes desirable in the first place.

Now that I have a planer I didn't use to I find myself reaching for long planes less and less. If you really want to work unplugged even for milling timber a No 7 or better yet a wooden long jointer is a wonderful thing to have.

If you mostly use machines for planing wood really all you need is a smoother you can count on, but a panel plane is really nice to have.

Join the conversation. Yes; think you have arrived when you use these more, and power planer less. I tend toward Stanley and Sargent transitional type. When my old-man hands drop them, the wood construction tends to better protect modern upgrade blades by LN Hock etc. Shop go-to plane is a 22" Fore? I have found that the long jointer planes I have an old Stanley do work well for things that are difficult to do on the modern jointers.

I've used it to make table tops and stair landings, and they line up beautifully. Just my experience, but I have gotten to the point where I will use it preferentially. I read your article with interest. I'm in agreement with your thinking and use of long planes. I have one, possibly quirky, use for a No.

I do have a No. It lives untouched in the cabinet. It is too heavy for me. When I am trying to get as near as possible to an invisible glue joint I use my No. Interesting, and probably true we use them less. But, what about jointing long boards for say a 7 foot table, no way I would try to do that on a power jointer.

Also again for a wide tabletop I think the long hand planes are the way to go. Randall, For a seven foot board a nice power jointer with long infeed and outfeed tables is wonderful. For a long wide table you might have a point although I think doing your darnedest to make sure that by the time the top is glued up so that it can't fit in a planer the joints are good enough so some selective planing might be required but not for planing the entire top for accuracy.

A cooper would draw the board over it creating the shape of the stave plank. The staves would not only be slightly curved, but would have to joint very tight to create a waterproof seal so as not to leak. On a recent trip to Rudesheim Germany, there was an old wine museum. In modern times the term jointer has stuck because the hand plane is used to join two edges of a board. Yet jointing boards is not the only use for the jointer.

The jack plane, as mentioned in the previous blog, has done the majority of the flattening of the board.

Many will move on to their smoothing plane after the jack plane. But a smoothing plane is short. The smoothing plane will have the tendency to ride up and down the hills and valleys that the jack plane made.

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