Tools, good and not cambdr good, last a long time. In the book, Nicholson states that the purpose of the try plane is to. They also named these planes so that users at the time would be familiar with their intended use. Ken ps The T4 and T7 are surprisingly similar. I'm a palne maker, teacher, jointer plane blade camber unit author, and I share my thoughts and experiences with the goal of educating and inspiring others who are pursuing the craft of traditional woodworking. I routinely set mine as close as possible to the blade edge for fine finishing, maybe as little as 12 thou". First, I love your three books on wooodworking, jointer plane blade camber unit set, that is.

I have never used or examined the newer planes or blades. I knew the newer premium blades are thicker. I did not realize just how much thicker until someome brought me three very nice IBC blades to sharpen at the woodworking show. I definitely need some retraining on modern plane blades!

The Tormek SE video does not mention camber. IMHO this is a glaring omission. Bench plane blades need camber to avoid making "plane tracks", the lines left on the wood by straight ground blades with no corner relief. To return to my old complaint, we need a more in depth chisel and plane blade training video. That's a good tip, Ken. I plan to try that on my smoother blades. Stickan Sr. Member Posts: Sincerely, Stig. Noted and reviewed, Stig.

Thanks for the reminder. My green machine is close to 18 years old and the se76 I now use was an upgrade purchased a couple years ago.

I suspect the original jig would have worked the same way though. Quote from: Stickan on December 07, , pm. Actually, what I use is the TTS I use the B setting the closer hole for chisels, where I want a shorter projection. I use the A setting for plane blades, which allows a longer projection length.

I place strips of blank label strips in the the gouge slots with marks for different bevel angles. This method may not be high tech, however, it is consistent and repeatable. This was the ancestor set up for the kenjigs. Ken ps Stig, your post appeared just as I was ready to post. I thought the longer projection distance was a solid idea.

It was straight from "The Gospel according to Torgny". Thanks for the input. And Stickan, thank you for the info from the manual. I actually have a Grizzly 8 inch water grinder but use some of the accessories.

Tried the TTS but can't move the bar close enough to the wheel. Thinking about getting an actual Tormek, but hesitate due to the price. Do all the jigs work on the 4 and 7 Tormek? Do any of you still use bench stones or some other type of sharpening method for your tools or just the Tormek?

The jigs do work on both machines. Regarding the price, I don't think you will find very many that feel the Tormek is way over priced after purchasing and using one. I do wish that I purchased a new one instead of a used one, however. Mike, I think most of us probably have an assortment of other sharpening equipment.

I do, although a lot of it doesn't get much use since I added the Tormek. Among my other often used sharpening "stuff" is an assortment of hand files. Once you get beyond the "bastard" files correct name for the coarseness which are the only ones carried in most hardware stores, you will find second cut and smooth files in a variety of sizes and shapes.

My file drawer gets a lot of use. I don't mean to be critical, merely curious. The Tormek seems to have a common perception of being expensive. Granted, Tormek equipment is not inexpensive. However, "expensive" compared to what?

Someone investing in a good set of waterstones, such at Norton or Shapton, will have almost the cost of a Tormek, especially if a DMT diaflat plate is included. A set of Lie-Nielsen, Veritas, or Blue Spruce chisels can approach the cost of a Tormek, as can a comparable set of bench planes. How about a Starrett combination square or rule?

A basic set of quality kitchen knives? A good set of quality HSS turning tools? Most blasted the price. However, compared to the nearest competitor, Kennedy chests, it is very reasonably priced and custom designed for the Tormek. Admittedly, my comparison items are all top quality products, as is the Tormek. The jointer plane, on the other hand, while resembling the try plane in appearance and length, is actually a joinery plane, not a surfacing plane like the try plane.

With Jointer Plane Blade Camber Joint this in mind, it makes more sense for a jointer plane to have a straight iron like other joinery planes e. Do not, however, confuse jointing the edge with truing the edge. If an edge needs to be squared to a true 90 degrees for example, the front of a case which will have a face frame applied , a try plane with a cambered blade will actually make the process easier. This process continues until the higher corner has been lowered sufficiently to make the Jointer Plane Height Unit edge square.

On the other hand, when making a joint between two boards, one wants a flat edge for gluing. This is the purpose of the jointer plane. Jointed edges need not be a perfect 90 degrees if the two boards are match planed. When match planing, the show faces of the two boards to be joined are placed together and the mating edges are planed at the same time.

When planed together, the boards can be opened like a book and the angles of the edges will be complimentary to each other, resulting in a flat panel. Perfect 90 degree edges are not necessary.

A cambered iron cannot make this joint as well as a straight iron. Hopefully, this clears up some of the confusion surrounding the try plane. You can see now that a 7 and 8 can both actually make very nice try planes or jointer planes. It all comes down to how you set up the iron.

Tag: Hand Planes. I'm a passionate woodworking enthusiast of over 30 years, with an interest in the methods of pre-industrial joiners and cabinetmakers. I'm a furniture maker, teacher, and author, and I share my thoughts and experiences with the goal of educating and inspiring others who are pursuing the craft of traditional woodworking. In addition to writing about and teaching traditional woodworking, I also build commission pieces for customers, and speak at woodworking shows and seminars.

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. Chris- feel free to ignore my question as I just noticed the links you gave in an earlier comment.

Those links are broken but I was able to find the articles and they answered the questions. Here are the new links if you want to update this thread. Thanks again. Chris- Would you say a few words about setting up a camber for a jack plane, i. Do you establish it on a grinder? Thanks for any insights.

Thomas as well. Chris seems to solve the problem by setting well back from the edge. If you wish to set Jointer Plane Blade Camber Name real close the top surface matters as well as the fit. Polish may not be essential but sharp 45 deg edge does.

Blunt edges cause choking. This query is for David Charlesworth. First, I love your three books on wooodworking, the set, that is. Do you use a scrub plane, which would normally use an even more pronounced camber? I think Rob Cosman uses it in his Rough to Ready video to thickness boards.

Your question is a can of worms — just search some of the Internet forums to get a clear picture of the debate. Smoothing plane: Just a slight camber to keep the corners from digging in. Jointer plane: A little stronger camber so that I can use that to correct edges that are out of square. Fore plane: A pronounced camber an 8" radius so that I can hog off material by working across or diagonal to the grain.

My question is simply do you camber the blades of all of your bench planes? I start with the Odate stone you recommended, which quickly gives me a great and centered starting point. I have to agree with Wesley. The fit to the back of the blade must be good and the top surface should be well polished at not more than 45 degrees to the back of the blade.

This work on the cap iron is quite difficult and needs precision. I routinely set mine as close as possible to the blade edge for fine finishing, maybe as little as 12 thou". I never actually measure the camber and agree that it is really a matter of getting to know what "looks right".

It works with both.

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