This basic plan can be modified to make accurate hole cutting jig for router of almost any size. Bole all the way through, using the full thickness of the plywood to anchor the pin. Thank you for sharing it. It's easiest to start at the center and work around the the hole clockwise, sneaking up on the final size with a few light passes. Also test rokter cutting speeds to find the best technique for hole cutting jig for router wood you're using. A hole saw is probably best for larger holes, but I used a twist bit, and it caught and made a pretty messy hole.

Set the diameter of your cut by loosening the knurled locking nut and turning the adjusting screw. Use the guide ruler to watch the change in adjustment this ruler is only a relative guide, since it references the center point of the bit, and the bit may be of any diameter.

Firmly tighten the locking nut so that your setting doesn't change while cutting. Set the depth of cut on your router base to match your purfling, leaving the inlay slightly "proud" of the surface—to be sanded or scraped flush after installation. Don't rout too deep, or your inlay will sit below the surface of the guitar top. For orders from other counties except the United States, We ship your order from China, Shipping time is about business days to arrive for most countries, and we also have Express shipping way if you want it to be faster, It takes around a week to arrive.

All shipping methods are trackable. We will send a shipping email with the tracking number to you once your order shipped. We have a day return policy, which means you have 30 days after receiving your item to request a return. To be eligible for a return, your item must be in the same condition that you received it.

To start a return or you have any return question, please contact us at elmerguitar gmail. Damages and issues Please contact us if the item is defective, damaged or if you receive the wrong item, so that we can evaluate the issue and make it right. Please remember it can take some time for your bank or credit card company to process and post the refund too. This rosette cutting jig is awesome, works wonderful.

Only small issue, description says indexing scale for quick setup, however no scale exitists. Both items I ordered arrived well-packed and in reasonable time. Very reasonable prices. Quality of the tools are as described and as I expected. I highly recommend this supplier of guitar tools and will be ordering again in the near future. What's not to like! Great Dremel base and rosette circle cutter.

Both parts work just as they should. Build quality is very good and far better priced than the StewMac ones. Highly recommended. Log in Sign up. Cart 0. Soundhole and Rosette Routing Jig 5 reviews. Free Shipping. It will allow me cut circles up to about 46" in diameter. Use a pencil to mark the screw mounting holes, the center hole, and trace around the outside diameter. A plunge router is preferable for this, but not neccesary. I already had the fixed base router that will be used in this jig out, and didn't feel like taking my plunge router out of my router table.

Unplugging the router anytime you install or change bits is a good safety habit to practice. Clamp the base to a stable work surface, like a table or workbench, with the side you will mount the router to face down. Then clamp a straight edge scrap of plywood in this case to the base to act as a fence, or guide. Line up the straight edge with the outside edge where you marked the baseplate, and parallel to the length of the base.

This will ensure that the slot will be centered in the base. Using the straight edge as a guide, route a slot between the mark 1" from the baseplate, and the mark 1" from the other end of the base.

If as you look at it, the fence is to the left of the router, start at the end closest to you. If the fence is to the right of the router, start on the end furthest from you. This Circle Cutting Jig For Makita Router will pull the router into the fence, which not only Circle Cutting Jig For Plunge Router makes it easier to make a perfect slot, but is also safer. With the fence still in place, rout the smaller slot the in the same way as the first one. Drill holes for the mounting screws, making them just a little bigger than the diameter of your screws.

Flip the base over, and using the holes as a guide, trace the baseplate on this side too. Choose which side you want to moun the router on, and chamfer the mounting holes on the opposite side. You want the chamfers just deep enough that the screws will sit beneath the surace.

Drill or rout out the center hole. It just has to be slightly bigger than the largest router bit you might use. A hole saw is probably best for larger holes, but I used a twist bit, and it caught and made a pretty messy hole.

It won't really effect anything other than aesthetics, but next time I'll take the time to get the correct bit out. I did clean up the hole a little with the router later. The mounting screws are most likely much too short to reach all the way through the base material.

We could buy longer mounting screws, but unless you have a set of really long router bits, the thickness of the base may limit the depth of cuts you can make with the finished jig. To solve both problems, I reccomend routing a recess in the base for the router to sit down in.

After clamping the base to a work surface with the router mounting side up, rout out the baseplate area, using the line you traced as a guide. It's easiest to start at the center and work around the the hole clockwise, sneaking up on the final size with a few light passes. Now the baseplate can be removed from the router, and the router can be installed in the jig using the baseplate screws.

Make sure all the screws sit flush with the bottom suface of the jig so that they won't catch on anything. While the easiest thing to do is buy a t-handle or star handle for jigs, but I'm too cheap to do that, so I make my own.

It takes a piece of scrap wood, a t-nut which costs just a few cents, and takes just a few minutes to make. I make them in bulk to use in all of my jigs, and I won't go into the process here. It's easy enough to simply cut out a shape you like, drill a hole in the center to accept the t-nut, and hammer it in place.

I didn't have any threaded rod, so I just cut the head off of a 3" bolt. Screw the nut onto the center of the threaded rod, and then place the washer on.

Slide the portion above the washer up throught the slot in the base, and then screw the handle on to the top. Alternatively, if you have access to a metal lathe as I do, you can cut the threads off one end of the threaded rod, making a smooth post of a specific size.

That way you can use a drill bit that matches the specific size, and always be sure to have a nice tight fit.

The threaded rod with an appropriate sized drill bit should work well enough for most applications though. This step is entirely optional, but I thought it might make it slightly easier to use.

The base had quite a bit of uneccesary wood, so I decided to cut it off, and round the corners. I also slightly beveled the edges on the bottom side with some sandpaper so that they wouldn't catch on anything as they slide around the circle. The first step to using it is setting the post height.

Measure the thickness of the material you'll be cutting a circle in. Adjust the nut on the post so that it sticks out slightly less than the material is thick. Mark the center of the planned circle, and drill a hole that the threaded rod post will fit in snugly. Set the post at the desired distance from the router bit, and tighten the handle on top to lock it in place.

If you are cutting all the way through your material, make sure to hang the portion being cut off the table, and keep rotating the material periodically during the cut to keep from cutting the table.

You could also put a sacrificial piece of scrap underneath the material instead. It's generally safer and easier to cut outer edges of circles in a counter-clockwise direction, and inside edges clockwise.

If you don't want a small hole in the cener of whatever you're cutting, you can use a sacrificial piece on top. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap, and use doublesided tape to secure it to the workpiece with the hole at the center of where you want to cut the circle. Then just increase the depth of cut by the thickness of the sacrificial piece, and cut as usual. Alternatively, if a hole would be acceptable on the underside, but not on top, you can drill the hole only part way through the material, and cut from the bottom.

Have fun, and be safe! I have the same fixed-base Porter Cable router and made a circle-routing jig for it.

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