Turning Tools (Hand Tools).  Food Safe Finishes. Oils. Paint Removers & Other Chemicals.  Food Safe finishes designed for wooden toys, cutting blocks, butcher blocks, salad bowls, wooden spoons or serving trays. Sort by. Featured Best Selling Alphabetically, A-Z Alphabetically, Z-A Price, low to high Price, high to low Date, new to old Date, old to new. Filters. Butcher Block Conditioner - Howards - 12 oz - Food Safe. Great sources for wood bowl turning skill and knowledge building. This board is for everyone who is a maker of wooden bowls or even thinking about turning bowls! Wood Turned Bowl Green Wood – Pecan Handheld Video. () Wood Turned Bowl Green Wood – Pecan Handheld Video - YouTube. Wood Turned Bowl Video – Old Oak Rock Hard. () Wood Turned Bowl Video – Old Oak Rock Hard - YouTube. 4 Bowl Gouge Techniques — Push Pull Scrape Shear Cuts Video.  My Favorite Food Safe Wood Finish for Tried and True Original Finish non-toxic wood bowls Video. () My Favorite Food Safe Wood Finish for Tried and True Original Finish non-toxic wood bowls Video - YouTube. Bowl Turning. Woodturning Tools. In this video I turned a Maple coffee cup on the Lathe. If you make this project I’d really like to see it, you can always share your projects on my website. Here’s a link to some of the tools I used in this video, www.-   Found a Food Safe Finish Recipe: Beeswax is the most basic and commonly used is for butcher block or wood salad bowls etc. where the polish needs to be food grade. In a double boiler add 40% beeswax to 60% food grade mineral oil like what you find at the pharmacy. You can just reheat and add more mineral oil to make the paste smoother. For non food safe finish use a double boiler again add 1 lb Beeswax (1 pint melted) 1 pint turpentine (odorless preferably) and 1 pint boiled linseed oil. Reply this comment. The finish penetrates and bonds with wood cells creating a food safe wood for turning games protective layer. As an adolescent, I always enjoyed watching how my late grandfather worked in his small woodworking shop. You should always have good ventilation in your shop, and I would recommend that you also purchase breathing protection. All are sanded to then get 3 coats of Tung oil at which point they feel smooth as glass. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer. Simplicity seems to be a theme with this product.

Beeswax can be reheated and reused, virtually forever. Tried and True, for me, is one of those products I must have. When my can of Tried and True Original gets low, I always order a new one before the old one is gone. I use it that much and dread thinking about not having it on hand. Tried and True Original is available online through Amazon. I initially tried a quart and then immediately jumped to the cost savings of the gallon can of Tried and True Original.

Per ounce, the gallon size is a better value in the long run. This food safe wood finish has incredible coverage since only a thin coat is needed per application. Tried and True Original is one such product. I love the ease, speed, and simplicity of applying Tried and True Original wood finish to my wood bowls. The elegant, understated low-gloss luster of a wood bowl finished with Tried and True lets the beautiful grain speak for itself.

If you are interested in creating a high-gloss quality finish, be sure to read this article that will teach you how easy it is to spray lacquer! Let me know if you use Tried and True Original food safe wood finish and what you think of this product. Please leave a comment below.

Happy Turning and Finishing , Kent. All are sanded to then get 3 coats of Tung oil at which point they feel smooth as glass. I think the biggest thing to consider is that the Tung oil is completely dry and cured first. Then, you should be fine. I just purchased Tried and True Original after reading your analyst.

Very interesting about sanding to Thank you for all your wonderful instruction. Being able to be instructed remotely during this isolation crisis is a real blessing! Ellen, So glad this helped you. Sometimes I use shellac first, but usually on trouble wood with punky end grain.

You might consider my Courses found in the top menu. Happy Turning, Kent. Thanks so much for such great information! It will be used for tea and what not. Thanks again Luke. It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used. Hi Kent, great information! I bought a lovely wood tray. It has been stained and sealed using a lacquer sealant. When I have wiped it with a sponge, water penetrates the wood, which is not good.

I asked the maker of the tray and she recommended sealing it with poly. Would Tried and True be water resistant enough to be a wipeable surface or do I need to use something else? If so, can you recommend a specific product? I would recommend not to use the poly. Instead, I would recommend sanding off the lacquer and applying the Tried and True Original. New follower, great videos and unlimited information. Thanks Frank.

If not it can be recoated. Over time the finish can dull, but it is easily rejuvenated with a quick coat. I am making a charcuterie board for my daughter out of African Mahogany a limb from one of their trees.

It has cured a few years now. I love the various coloring and shimmering look. It has a glow BUT it will have food on it. I considered lacquer but think oil is a better choice because the board will probably have cheese on it with little knives to cut. So, 1. Do I need to resend down to and 2. If I use this oil will it take away the variant colors in the wood and 3.

Will it darken the wood? I had used on a sample piece of the same wood Howard Butcher Block Conditioner oil which is food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, beeswax and carnauba wax but it darkened the wood and took away the beauty.

I appreciate your thoughts. First off, any finish is going to change the appearance of the wood. Raw sanded and prepared wood is usually dull and dry in appearance and finish revives the color and life of the wood. This is the best you can apply to the surface. You can also use the Tried and True Original which is linseed oil and beeswax, again with zero additional elements.

Hello, Fantastic article and great questions by the readers. I learned a lot. My question has to do with wooden cooking utensils, cutting boards, etc. Im researching new wooden utensils for cooking. Part II of my question. Im trying to determine which type of wood is best to buy for health safety and durability. There is a lot of controversy and information out there. Based on what Ive read, Im thinking about Teak, Beachwood or Bamboo; although open to any suggestions.

I am leaning toward a set of Beachwood utensils made in France that are quite reasonably priced. Teak tends to be overpriced and I personally find it hard to determine if a bamboo product is safely processed given how many brands are out there. And lastly, then I will shut up and listen… lol I read an article that is really bothering me.

Is this correct? Is this guy bonkers? I know that wooden kitchenware needs to be treated regularly with oil, not soaked in water or dishwasher, … but carry bacteria? Would I retreat occasionally? The Tried and True Original can be applied once and will last a long time. Tried and True Danish can be applied with multiple layers like the mineral oil to saturate the wood. Interesting take on wood. I have actually heard the opposite. Wood has anti-bacterial properties and is safe for food, safer than some other materials.

Film finishes, like lacquer, can be bad for bacteria if they chip and food or debris gets in and under the cracked area, they can develop bacteria.

But oiled boards are fine. For the final buffing stage with Tried and True, do you think Scotchbrite non woven pad could be used in place of steel wool? The pad is rated at The finish should rise from a dull to semi-luster when the surface is burnished.

Perhaps, try both and see if the Scotchbrite is similar. My guess is, the results will be similar. Do you happen to know of another finish that I might investigate and use?

I hope this is the product I need. I have a huge vintage Dansk teak salad bowl. It looks beautiful but the salad dressing leaks out. The seams are not obviously separated, but the leak is substantial. Would this product seal the seams? Thank you so Food Safe Wood For Turning 2020 much for sharing your expertise. If there is a visible gap or crack, that would need to be repaired. However, you could also be referring to leaking through end-grain.

If the wood is porous enough, you could have leaking through the end grain fibers. Yes, Tried and True Original with linseed oil and beeswax will begin to fill some of that porous area. I am hoping that the Tried and True will be a nice finish. They do not have a dishwasher, so my only concern is that they do their dishes once a day in the evening, the rest of the time the dirty dishes are left in a water tub to soak. Sounds pretty cool, CNC printed cups and bowls.

Wood is a celluous structure that absorbs and sheds moisture all the time and soaking will ruin the wood over time. The Tried and True Original, which has beeswax, will repel some water, but it is not waterproof. Thanks so much for the article. I am working on refinishing an outdoor wood table that would need to be food-safe. Would this be a good product to seal it with following wood stain?

Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Yes, you can apply Tried and True over a wood stain. Thanks for a great article. I have 2 questions. Someone even said that it is the consistency of honey.

Does it flow on evenly and easily or is it thick and sticky? I need something that I can get into nooks, crannies, and crevices and then be able to wipe off the excess. Also, I made up my own beeswax and stand oil heated linseed oil wood finish, as recommended by Chris Schwarz…1 part beeswax to 4 parts stand oil. It gives a nice finish on flat pieces of wood, but is too hard and stiff for my needs detail work.

Have you ever worked with or made this type of finish and if so how could I thin it down and soften it to make it more suitable to my needs without introducing turpentine or another solvent?

Again, thanks for a great article and any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Jim Hipp. See this video of mine to view the application. If you are seeing the product on the wood, you have applied enough.

Then you wipe any thick areas off after an hour. And after hours come back and buff it out with a clean cloth. I use this product on delicate thin turned pieces and it works great. Thanks Kent…. From the video, it looks like this finish is probably a good consistency for my carvings. Thanks again….. I use them interchangeably and they blend perfectly.

The finish will add a bit of warm color to the wood. My son in law is making a small table for my grandchildren to eat on when they are at my house. I need something to put on the wood to keep it looking nice in the face of, well, grandchildren eating and playing on it!

Will this product work or is there something different I should use? I have been researching but frankly I am starting to get confused. I am also a novice at doing this kind of project. Thanks in advance for your help. Yes, this product will work great. Also, if the grandchildren damage the wood somehow, simply sand out the damaged area and reapply this finish.

It will blend in and match without any effort. Hopefully, the grandkids will be kind. Can I spray lacquer over tried and true? This does not have to be food safe for the use intended. Thank you. Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. Because of this, the surface will not shine or appear glossy. In order to appear glossy, micropores and crevasses needed to filled and made smooth so the surface reflects light.

The best way to get a glossy finish is to apply several thin layers of lacquer. You can apply lacquer over Tried and True Danish linseed only Oil without any problems. I have sprayed it over Tried and True original and have had good results for the most part. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer. Here are a few comments that might help. You read that right. It is no joke. Some people keep a jar of water nearby and put the finish-soaked rags in the water.

The problem with that is how do you dispose of the finish-water in a responsible way? Sure Tried and True may be okay, but what about other oil finishes with metallic driers or other undesirable chemicals? My solution is to put the oily rags outside on an isolated paving stone, put a rock on them to hold them down. Leave the rags for several days until they are completely dry, then put them in the trash.

You can use gray 3M or gray other-brand abrasive pads in the place of steel wool. The abrasive pads look like kitchen cleaning scrub Food Safe Wood For Turning File pads, only gray instead of green. The green pads are too abrasive compared with the gray ones. Steel wool can leave bits of steel behind in the wood to rust and leave dark spots. The gray abrasive pads do not. I use both, but tend to favor the gray pads.

If you buy steel wool, consider Liberon or Briwax brands of steel wool. They are oil-free, and less likely to stain or leave spots on your wood.

You can buy the gray pads at Home Depot, Lowes, and other household hardware stores. Woodworking stores sell them too. I found the Liberon steel wool at Rockler. Woodcraft sells Briwax steel wool. You can buy Tried and True finish in quart cans at Rockler and Woodcraft stores, and probably other regional and local woodworking stores.

You can find Rockler and Woodcraft stores in many states in the US. Rockler carries both Original and Varnish Oil. I know, because I bought them both at a Rockler store. The difference is subtle at best. Sometimes it is more about the texture, where finishes with beeswax seem to have a more natural feel. Some oil finishes tend to darken the wood more than others, but the difference is not that pronounced.

I have asked finishing experts and they do not understand why some products cost so much. Ultimately, it comes down to how much you buy into the hype of the expensive brands, the effort it takes to apply and burnish, in some cases , the number of coats required, the time it takes to cure, the safety factors, and personal preference.

Thanks for your detailed input. Yes, I do think it is the beeswax texture that makes the Tried and True Original Finish my favorite as well. What would recommend using to make it as water resistant or waterproof as possible?

Thanks Kim. There are resin products made by West Marine that come highly recommended. Although I have not used them myself yet, I would consider them to be best suited for your project. Let me know if this helps. Great article! I have been using Tried and True Original Wood Finish and also Tried and True Danish Oil either together or alone for the past 6 months and they both provide a great finish.

Simple and clean to use and virtually no clean up. The product is available in Canada through Lee Valley Tools. Hi I wanted to use it for copper plate to protect from tarnish especially in rainy seasons. I am in Delhi India where pollution is high affecting copper utensils , and let me know if anything available in India or any sample I can get in India.

Thanks Dave. Thanks for writing. Hi, great article. There is a difference between drying time and curing time. Wood finishes that are pre-made will often list a drying time on their label. This is the amount of time the manufacturer suggests you wait before applying additional coats.

The surface layer will feel dry to the touch with most products, but the material under that dry surface will not have dried. Pre-made products will also list a curing time for each product.

This indicates the amount of time you need to wait before using the finished item. It will be dry from the surface to the deepest spots of penetration. The first area of concern when it comes to toxicity is during application on your projects. You should always have good ventilation in your shop, and I would recommend that you also purchase breathing protection. Most woodworkers think of dust masks when contemplating protection.

These may work great for keeping wood particles out of your nose and lungs, but they will not protect you from chemical vapors. You need to get a respirator that is designed to pull harmful chemicals out of the air that you breathe in through the respirator.

Another concern for many is the toxicity levels on treated wood items used for food and toys. Boiled linseed oil and tung oils are the least toxic finishes you can use.

Shellacs and water-based finishes are the next best options in this regard. Finally, finishes like lacquers represent the most toxic finishes you will use.

Most finishes, no matter what type they are, will be usable on wooden dishes if you are applying them as the manufacturer suggests as well as making sure they are completely cured before use. Each product is different, even if they are made by the same company. Most companies will list products that meet government standards for food safety. Again, there will be two scenarios to keep in mind here. The first concern is the temperature range the product should be stored and used at.

Chemicals can break down if they stored at too low of a temperature or may combust if kept at a temperature beyond the recommended range. Secondly, you will want to consider the temperature that the utensils will be used at. Items used for cooking like spoons or spatulas will be used on hot cooking surfaces.

Verify on the label if the finish will tolerate these extremes without breaking down or melting as you cook. In many cases, you will want to apply a finish that produces a hard surface. There are times that you may want to avoid this, such as finishing a cutting board.

If the wooden item will be cut or hammered on, you might want a softer finish that gives a bit to avoid flaking that can cling to your food. The durability of a particular finish should also be considered with the shape of the item. Boards or utensils with sharp edges will likely wear out sooner than they would with a beveled, or rounded, edge. Grooves and indentations can also be problematic, becoming a collection point for bacteria or grease build-up.

Softer finishes may become more susceptible then harder coatings as they will be more porous. Unwanted build-up can penetrate the surface, making it impossible to clean off and forcing you to strip down the finish and re-applying it. There is a surprising variety of wood finishes that are available to us today.

I started with the products that my grandfather used while supplementing them with others that I wanted to try out. The following finishes are worth considering, especially on your wood projects that need to be food-safe.

These oils are often made from distilled petroleum or other mineral sources. That may be an important consideration for woodworkers who desire a natural look for their cooking ware. Mineral oil does not smell and will not add an odor to the food items that it comes into contact with.

They work well as an overcoat on wood stains that are water-based but should be avoided if your stain is oil-based. You should find mineral oils for a cheaper price point when compared to many types of finishes. This product provides a soft finish that will work well on cutting boards or wooden countertops. It lacks a bit in the durability department, however, and will require regular maintenance that will include re-coating your projects.

If you are considering mineral oil as a finish, it is important to understand that these products are available in crude or refined products. Crude mineral oil is often used in industrial settings and should be avoided if possible. Instead, look for refined mineral oil, as the FDA lists them as safe to use in cosmetics and food.

This product has been used for centuries as a finish and polish for wood. It is natural and lacks harsh chemicals that are less desirable. Many woodworkers prefer this material made by honey bees due to this benefit. One thing to keep in mind is that beeswax will require a bit more work to use when compared to some finishes.

You will need to melt it so that it becomes soft enough to work with. Beeswax will harden quickly, so many joiners mix it with an oil tung oil is often used to extend its working time.

Another trick that users do when applying this material is to add lemon essential oil to provide a pleasant scent. Some people claim that the lemon oil also acts as an antibacterial agent that will benefit food-related wooden items. Beeswax provides a decent level of protection on wood surfaces, but it will not penetrate as deeply into the wood as other products can. It will require regular re-applications often in order to provide the best protection.

This natural product is non-toxic and should be safe for use by most people. When it is applied and buffed, the wood will take on a warm look that highlights its natural colors. It also creates a surface that feels silky smooth when you touch it, a quality that differentiates it from hard and smooth varnishes. European readers may be familiar with this finish that is often used by French woodworkers.

It can be applied on decoration pieces by mixing it with mineral oil, but it should be used pure when applying it on food-safe items. Food utensils will see a lot of use, so they will require at least six coats of walnut oil for optimal protection.

It provides great protection from liquids, including alcohol and water. Keep in mind that this product can have adverse effects on people who suffer from food allergies. It will penetrate wood grain nicely and should help to highlight multi-colored wood. Walnut oil will require that you do touch-ups on your utensils, but the level of maintenance should be less than with a product like beeswax.

Carnauba wax is derived from the Brazilian palm tree. It is considered food-safe as it is a natural vegetable-based wax product.

This wax is often mixed with beeswax as it can be difficult to achieve a consistent look when used pure. This wax will require Food Safe Wood For Turning Model two to three coats to provide the best coverage possible. It will not penetrate wood grain, a characteristic common with all wax products.

This material will provide a bit more durability than beeswax will in many cases, but it will wear over time and needs to be re-applied. It offers a soft feel when touched and generates a satin-like shine.

Many woodworkers will apply another protective product over carnauba wax but it can offer you a coating that is non-toxic. A popular selection for many joiners is this product made from nuts of the tung tree.

Part of this popularity is due to the durability of this finish, a trait that offers hardiness as well as lower maintenance. It also supplies wood items with decent water resistance, something that is required for food-related wood items. Is tung oil safe for food, though? Tung oil makes my list here as it is food-safe after three days of curing and repels food particles that can stick in the pores on wood surfaces. This protection will need monthly re-application to offer a high level of protection.

When looking at tung oil products , make sure that they are pure. Oil and varnish blends, as well as wipe on products, contain solvents that most woodworkers want to avoid when using on food-related items. This product is one of the oldest finishes, used by ancient Egyptians on their wooden items.

Linseed is often used by Europeans but has been supplanted by flaxseed and other products in North America. It has gained in popularity, especially with beginners, as it is easy to apply.

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