Originally Posted by stephen thomas. Done well, a scraped surface can easily be within. Naturally, this jointer needs a lot of work before it can be used. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side. I like to have the sides perpendicular to the sole so it is possible to lay the plane on its side and adjust a board to good perpendicular shape. The process can be started on a budget, making marking medium jojnter oil and flattening jointer plane sole 90, or certain types of artist oil paint clean flattening jointer plane sole 90 carefully each pllane if you choose this route :.

The shaving will not get thinner and the wood will not get smoother. I typically stop at grit. Email Address. Skip to content The question of how flat a sole of a hand plane need to be comes up all the time. All notes are for pictures below them As I start flatten on this, we can see a hollow where the arrow is.

We will want to get that out Note how this hollow follows through to the mouth. Not the hollow in the back is now gone. We are making progress. Its getting smaller. Share this:. The first step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface.

A workbench is preferred , but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work. A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane.

An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side. This could work, but will not be very efficient. Be sure to note the direction of the grain, and plan to plane as much as possible along that same line.

Grip the back handle with your rear hand, making sure that your index finger does not try to find a place to rest on the iron or chip breaker. Pressing against these can knock the lateral adjustment out of whack.

Make sure your forearm is in a straight line behind the jointer plane following the direction of the sole. With the front hand, hold onto the tote, or front handle, with a comfortable strong grip.

Lean forward, putting the strength and stability of your body behind it. Push from the back hand while pressing down with the front hand, keeping the sole as flat on the surface as possible. Forward strokes should be straight, while bringing the jointing plane back to its original position is often easier to do in a half-arc.

On a wide, long surface, you can perform this action in a rapid, but smooth, motion. For narrow edges and ends of planks, use a slow, steady motion. Asked 2 years, 11 months ago.

Active 2 years, 11 months ago. Viewed times. Fellow woodworkers, Recently, I bought a semi-professional 7 jointer plane, which doesn't mean much by my country standards, since we get Chinese rip-offs that are sold under famous brand names and prices.

Here are the photos of the progress of flattening, taken about once every hour. Improve this question. J R J R 2 2 silver badges 6 6 bronze badges. First off, bravo for what you've achieved so far!

I don't want to add an Answer as scanny has pretty much covered it as I would have, but I did want to address a couple of issues. IF you decide to continue you can do it using abrasives by localised sanding but I highly, highly recommend you switch to filing or scraping, and to help decide on that I think what you should do now is check how the plane works as it stands.

What brand is this by the way? Silverline, why? Silverline don't have a great reputation as you know, but as with all Flattening Jointer Plane Sole Data cheaper tools there are better and worse examples. They're a little more expensive but I'm a fan of Faithfull as I have two and a friend has one and all three were great, needing at most basic fettling to be usable.

Faithful are not imported in my country, unfortunately We have just Silverline, Stanley and Irwin, but unfortunately, Stanleys and Irwins are just Chinese rip-offs sold under these brand names and prices, but they are little better than the Silverline.

I checked Show 3 more comments. Active Oldest Votes. There are several others if you search on "metal scraping". The process can be started on a budget, making marking medium from oil and pigment, or certain types of artist oil paint clean off carefully each time if you choose this route : A scraper that kind of works can be fashioned from a file, but something with at least high-speed steel on the cutting edge is much more effective.

Improve this answer. Thank you for your answer. Very useful. I guess I will go this way. I searched and was unable to buy marking blue for steel anywhere in my country. You said I can make it myself from oil and pigment? Could you please tell more about it?

What kind of oil, what pigment should I be looking for? The recipe is detailed at about in the third video. The oil probably doesn't matter too much, I expect motor oil would work fine. Probably not vegetable oil though. Oh, thanks, I was just halfway into the second video.

Will check it out. Thank you again for your answer, this info is extremely useful. In several of the videos you posted, people say that oil based marking medium is a poor choice.

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