Rcaftsman use mine like a dead man switch, so that I can turn the machine on and off without leaning down or looking away from the project. Now, I need a new router I wlth a shaper table crxftsman my portable Rigid table saw Yes, I have the very first year they made the saw about years ago and still craftsman table saw with router mount it. Which list would you like to add your item to? Constructing the tabletop assembly Note: The letters referenced herein refer to the illustrations on next page. I did craftsman table saw with router mount former with a jigsaw and the latter with the table saw, then fixed the frame in place using Craftsman Table Saw With Router One flat-head screws in the holes that were already there. It was quite a challenge: I had to buy a carbide drill bit and drill holes in the table to match up to the threaded holes on the table saw

Actually, if you haven't seen his site before, do yourself a favor and have a look around - loads of fantastic stuff there. If you got this far, doubtless you already own a table saw. For this project, you need a full size one with an extension - mine is the Ridgid R , which is probably the most affordable one of this type out there.

You will also need a mini router table, of the type intended to be mounted on a workbench. The one I bought came with a fixed base router and all the fittings. Beyond the table saw, I used a cordless drill, a hand saw, a jigsaw, measuring tape, square, wood glue, 1. The wood was all offcuts from spruce construction lumber from my woodpile. Measure the size of the hole in the table extension and the size of the table.

That meant I needed to extend the table by 41 mm at each end, but didn't need to do anything on the sides except provide support. I glued and screwed the frame together, put it in place and realized I needed to cut a rebate for the switch and slots on each end for the sliding miter gauge. I did the former with a jigsaw and the latter with the table saw, then fixed the frame in place using flat-head screws in the holes that were already there. Drill holes and drive screws through the frame into the underside of the table to fix it in place I used 6 , and mount your router.

The way this is set up I can either use the fence that came with the router or the fence on the table saw if I need to rout a larger workpiece. The whole setup works very nicely and it was just a quick job. Reply 5 months ago. Reply 1 year ago. Sounds simple enough so maybe there's an intructables or a video? Why didn't you do this? Yup - love the portability of those saws. I managed to snag one of the last cast topped tables before the switched them to the new material can't recall what they make the table tops out of now.

Just one little tidbit to add - you will want to add some sort of angled brace from the outer edge of the router table insert to the table saw base to prevent any strain on the TS rails over time.

Doesn't have to be anything fancy - just to take the load off the rails. Handiest upgrade you can make to any table saw - and your router table will actually get used more! Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. This one has a cast iron center with pressed steel wings. It's still heavy, but not compared to a cabinet saw.

I thought about bracing it, but the router is not all that heavy and the rails are very solid. The brace may also make it a little tricky to store I tuck the saw under the my workbench when not in use. May have to reconsider if I detect any signs of strain.

Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Am in the process of building my router table add on. Great idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it to your saw. I just purchased this saw. The center section is still cast iron. They no longer make either wing out of cast iron. And am in the process of building my router table. What a cool idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it into the table.

I agree with your support idea. I think this idea is great but I would be concerned about stressing the rails. I route heavy hard wood stock sometimes which requires heavy pressure against the fence to get a nice clean cut and I would be afraid of bending the rails and bringing my table saw out of square or worse.

Just completed this on my tablesaw. Instead of cutting out a dado for the switch, I removed it from the table and relocated it to the front edge of the support frame. Great instrucable, and your measurements were bang on! Important note: This table was built for a specific 10" saw model, so the dimensions and connections may vary somewhat for your saw. As a general rule, you should plan to make the tabletop as wide as the extension being replaced and as long as the front and rear rails can sturdily support.

Sometimes, the extension table can be slightly longer than the metal extension it replaces. Making sure the top edges are flush, glue and screw the strips to the tabletop. Sand the top surface of the banding flush with the top of the plywood tabletop. Using contact cement, center and adhere the plastic- laminate to the top of the tabletop assembly A, B, C.

Before drilling, double-check that the top surface of the extension table will be perfectly flush with the top sur face of your saw table. See the Front View drawing on previous page Craftsman Table Saw With Router Zoom for reference.

Fasten the extension to the saw table. Remove the extension table from the saw table and drill the guide- rail mounting holes where marked. See the End View for reference. STEP 4 Measure the distance from the top of the saw table to the centerline of the existing hole.

Transfer that dimension to the table extension. Drill the mounting holes through the banding. Quick View. Add to Cart. JessEm - Installation Template.

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