Wood carving and its varieties are some of the oldest forms of woodworking. Even though it has been a hobby practiced for thousands of years, the methods and technology have remained relatively the same. It’d still a highly popular form of art that continues to grow. Though it may look intimidating when you first begin researching it, wood carving is not that overly difficult if you are willing to learn the different tools and techniques. Any new hobby takes patience, practice and persistence. Wood carving is no different. The nice thing about this hobby is that you can get started with a begi. Carvers need to be able to deal competently with both instances. The same relief techniques are used to carve letters from the Latin alphabet, such as this “D.”  I enlarged the kanji on my computer and printed the design on vellum, or transparent paper. The transparent paper allows me to orient the designs with the grain. Keep the strength of the wood fibers (the grain) in mind. We stock a broad range of wood carving tools from Ashley Iles. Every Ashley Iles carving chisel and gouge is beautifully hand forged and ground from high carbon Sheffield steel. Carving tool sets also available. Hard Wax Oils like the Polyx will take warm mugs being placed oill it for example, but always exercise care with wooden surfaces. It is obvious that bare wood has been exposed to weather at some point possibly for decades. I have cedar installed on the ceiling of compkter shower, and as trim around the windows. I should be able to finish carving and staining the computer wood carving oil panel tommorrow and also clean up the DVD drive cutout. That beautiful rocking chair your grandfather made. An exterior oil will be easier to maintain and repair should the need arise.

I also want to thank Thermaltake for sponsoring me with a awesome PSU power supply unit Day 1 I am using the metal frame of an old case I have, and plan to fix the MDF to the frame haven't quite worked out the details of that yet. I use the software AutoCAD to draw the design, then print out A4 sheets and stick them together so I have a scale of the design that I can use as a template.

Day 3: OK, here is Day 3. I have pretty muched finished the carving of the front panel, just need to sand it a bit. I have cut out the panel for the DVD burner.

The dvd burner will be behind a MDF panel which I haven't cut out yet. Day 4 : So far today I have just sanded the front panel and applied a finish to it. I used acrylic paint and linseed oil to get an aged look. I then wiped off the excess oil and paint with a rag.

I thought the next step might be to look at the wiring as I haven't quite worked out how I am going to do it. I also need to reslove how I am going to create a button for the DVD burner to open. I have made a hole but haven't worked out the details. I also need to work out how to attach the drive door to the panel.

Day 5: I haven't done a lot since last time in terms of the case itself, but I have designed the side panels and top panel using AutoCAD. The top panel will have a cut out for a fan, mm diameter. I have also trued up the front panel as it wasn't square. It's still not quite square but I've done the best I can. I made the mistake of carving the panel before cutting it out which is why it wasn't square - won't do that again.

Day 6: Today I have started on the top panel. I have the panel already cut out and have started the carving. I have also cut out a hole for the mm fan that will be fixed below. Day 7: Today I finished carving the top panel and also stained it. I still might need to sand around the fan cutout as it's a bit rough. Day 8: Today I have cut out the whole for the mm fan at the top of the case.

I went and bought some cutting discs for my dremel. I haven't cut metal before so it was quite an experience with all the sparks flying. I ended up using 2 discs to cut the circle. The first disc broke in about 2 seconds but the disc I used after that was a reinforced disc which managed to finish the job although it is quite worn down. I also drilled holes for the top panel and fixed the panel with brass dome head screws which I think match the colour of the case.

Day 9: So today I have started carving one of the side panels. I drilled some ventilation holes in the panel - not sure if they will be very effective though. Day Today I finished off carving the side panel which was starting to become a chore due to it's size. I was looking at ways to fix the side panel so came up with the idea of fixing a strip of aluminium to the existing case edges.

I bought pop rivet gun to help with this and it is awesome. Day Today I basically fixed some aluminium bars to the other side of the case with rivets and attached the fan to the top of the case. I have actually stuffed up the front panel. I realised when I put the side panel on. It's not square and if I was to square it up, the panel would be asymmetrical. I can't live with that so I am going to do a new front panel with a new design. It wasn't a total waste though, I made some mistakes on the initial front panel which I have learned from.

Day I have started carving the new front panel. The first 2 photos show the panel leaning against the case. I should be able to finish carving and staining the front panel tommorrow and also clean up the DVD drive cutout. Day Not a lot done today, but I have finished carving the front panel and cut out the hole for the USB ports.

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Make Money Carving Learn how to start your own CNC wood carving business from home with this page guide filled with advice from our customers who have done it themselves! Get the Free Guide! It dries quick and leaves a nice smooth finish. I use the satin Deft instead of gloss which eliminates the shine. I use that also over my woodburning.

The key to sprays is to have thin coats so you don't get runs. Good Luck! Comment Post Cancel. Re: Beginner question on wood finishes for carvings Tung Oil is a nice finish, you need to saturate your piece, let soak in for 10 min. Repeat this treatment three or four times, over three or four days, leaving 24 hours between layers.

You can finish off with a spray sealant, like Deft, or a wax, paste wax or liquid wax. Polishes up real nice. Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, let them pipe: "Up Spirits" one more time. If so the answer in NONE!!!! You never want to wood burn through any finish or paint. Wood burning should be done on the clean wood after all of your relief work is complete. Then any painting steps are worked followed by the finishing steps.

Danish oil is a beautiful, easy to use finish that leaves a soft shine to the wood and especially good for decorative carvings. Tung oil is as well and best used on a surface that needs a "harder" finish as on furniture. Both work very well to enhance the wood burned accents. As for the urethanes and poly finishes you can find them in high gloss, semi gloss and matte finishes.

I, however, seldom use any of them whether in brush on or spray as I feel they leave the wood carving with a stark, hard look compared to the softer oils. Re: Beginner question on wood finishes for carvings I use tung oil or Danish oil on my decorative carvings that get a natural finish.

I rub out the last coat of oil finish with steel wool, which kills the shine, then finish with Bri-Wax past wax. The wax does not leave a hard shine, just a nice luster. For a spray-on finish, satin Deft works very well, and again, no hard shine.

Another benefit of Deft is that you can recoat quickly and don't need to sand or rub with steel wool betweeen coats. Afer woodburning, it's important to remove the char by gently wire brushing.

Otherwise, the char will prevent good adhesion of the finish. Re: Beginner question on wood finishes for carvings Thanks for the replies! I am referring to the final finish after the woodburning has been done. I used a satin spar urethane spray on the deer and it is still very shiny. Tried to take away some shine with steel wool, but wherever I used the steel wool it looked like it had a greyish film on it.

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