They both were made with carpenters mallet dimensions code hickory handle and a chunk of Osage orange that started out as a piece of firewood. Set your miter saw or miter gauge on a table saw to a 2-degree angle and cut each end of the board. These mallets come in two head diameters, 70 mm and 90 mm. I am definitely carenters to build one of these. The head, in a durable polyurethane nallet unbreakable and because of its elasticity, without being too soft, is in use extremely quiet and effective.

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I built my joiner's mallet when I was just getting started in woodworking. I hadn't seen too many mallets before then so I went with my gut instincts on size and dimensions.

The result is a very hefty mallet made of hard maple and ash. This mallet works well for me and I barely have to move it to drive a chisel. I've used it for long periods of time with minimal fatigue. But I have to ask, is there some advantage I'm missing out on that a smaller mallet has to offer? A physically smaller but still heavy striking implement hammer, a lead-weighted mallet, or one made from lignum vitae or another heavyweight wood could provide some benefits in some specific situations, purely as a matter of size and access.

I can't see the picture but I can just guess from.. That's quite the mallet! That size could cause some hardships If it is really big then you can have potential issues if you are trying to make delicate taps on a chisel or some other tool like a punch for small pieces.

Sure, you could choke up but having a smaller mallet would be easier to handle I would say. If you are comfortable with the changes in force relative to the size of the tools and application then this might not be a concern. I can't think of a scenario for this but it the mallet is large you might have trouble getting into smaller or awkward spaces.

Now that I have seen how big it is I could also see a problem with viewing your strikes. While you might not need to I would see the need to try and look around the mallet to see where I'm striking. That is mostly personal preference though. There is no one telling you that you can't have more than one mallet! Build all the things. Also, you say that you have used it for long periods of time with minimal fatigue.

That could be subjective. I don't know what a long period of time is to you or how often you use it during that period.

By Graham Haydon. In Shop Blog , Woodworking Blogs. Joinery , Joint , Mallet. Graham Haydon is a Joiner based in the UK, working in the same woodworking business his great grandfather started in alongside his father, brother and a small team of craftspeople. The business makes custom architectural joinery, simple furniture and custom kitchens along with a variety of other woodworking projects. During his spare time he enjoys woodworking mainly with hand tools.

BobGroh August 3, BLZeebub July 28, Ditto on Mr. Roseville Rob July 28, What is the Angle of the face? Thanks for the plan. Now to build a raised panel door so I can use it to set my joints!! Just made this today with some scrap maple, and it went together perfectly. Thanks for the article and the fun! Thanks so much for the tutorial. I am definitely going to build one of these. But I have a question about the mallet head: Why not reverse the direction of the grain from what you have here so that the striking surface is long grain instead of end grain?

Do you see any downsides to this? In general my feeling is that end grain is more robust and better suited to sustain the blunt force of repeated blows, but I think you will be fine either way. When I compare the mallet that I made for this article with the traditional carvers mallet that I made where the strike surface has grain oriented as you describe, the carvers mallet is much more dented up. Neither mallet has ever split.

Thank you for the article. But felt like I needed a long chesel to make the ones I have seen. I do believe the end grain is the best way to accomplish the goal on the head. Would you make a reverse bevele 2 deg. Yes, I suggest a 2 degree angle cut on the non-domed end. This makes it a more natural striking angle. The angle would be oriented so that it tilts downward when the mallet is positioned vertically. Most of the mallets I have seen have weights. Hi, Richard. When I wrote this article I built 4 different prototypes.

I did drill out the middle portion of the head and put lead shot into a couple of them, but I found the additional weight unnecessary for my purposes, and made the mallet a bit unwieldy for regular use. The domed head is the unique attribute that really sets this mallet apart. I find that I use the domed side when striking objects that are larger than the mallet itself, and the flat side when striking objects that are smaller.

This mallet is one of the most frequently used tools in my shop. Would there be an advantages or disadvantages to making the handle and the center potion of the wood sandwich as one piece?

Very interesting idea. Hi, Michael. Yes, you may print these instructions. If you have any further questions, please contact us at I feel like I missing something here…. The 2 degree cuts on the inside of the center pieces form a tapered mortise. When the handle is put in and wedges are driven in, that creates a joint that tightens when the head tries to move away from the handle when you strike something with the mallet.

Made one this weekend out of maple. I rounded my handle a little more to fit my hand. The weight feels good. Unlike most that are made from hard plastic, the head on mine is rubber on one side and metal on the other.

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