If the hole is drilled too deep, there is "play" in the adjustment. I added a piece of leather to the top of the clamp carriage for extra protection for the bottom edge of material being worked on. I trimmed the back side of all 16 blanks stopping just short of the knob at the top. C-clamps from Ivy Classic and Bessey parallel clamps set 91 are forged from high-tensile steel to hold heavy objects in place. Many sets come with a handy rack that can be mounted on a pegboard above your bench. This jig allows for the binding channel to be cut AFTER the fingerboard and neck have been glued together. Loosen the wing nut on the slot and turn the handle on the adjustment screw to exactly where you bessey parallel clamps set 91 it.

Once material is clamped in the toggle clamp, it doesn't move. Chris Wolf's Low-Angle Miter Saw Fixture A miter saw or miter gauge will cut angles of 90 to 45 degrees, and a typical tapering jig is good for angles up to about 15 degrees, but how do you make cuts in that in-between range, 15 to 45 degrees?

This fixture mounts on a miter saw to hold a workpiece for those cuts. The fence is slotted so it doubles as a T-track. The fixture mounts on the saw with its fence and the workpiece at 90 degrees to the mitersaw fence. The workpiece is held by a toggle clamp mounted to a small piece of wood which slides forward and backward along the fence in the T-track. Mounting the clamp on T-track serves two purposes: 1 allows you to position the clamp in the best location for each workpiece, and 2 allows the use of spacers to raise the clamp for thicker workpieces.

Photo 1 shows the fixture in place on the saw with the saw adjusted for a A curved notched Fence that is clamped onto your bandsaw table. A curved Sled that rides against the Fence. Perfect identical arc cuts every time with no pattern tracing or free hand cutting! Frank Hamilton's Miter Sled This is a miter sled I use on my tablesaw to cut the segments I glue together for making segmented bowls and plates.

I use the toggle clamps to hold the small pieces safely to be cut on the tablesaw. I also use toggle clamps to hold my stop on this same jig. It runs parallel to the saw blade by means of a hardwood strip that fits in the miter gauge slot. Handplane handles keep the hands safely away from the blade. Harold Holmstrom's Combination Jig This is a combination jig I designed and built to drill rung mortises for a Shaker style chair that I built.

The Destaco clamps hold the leg in position during the tenon drilling operation. The 2nd part of the jig is designed to allow the use of a router with a guide bushing to mortise the slots for the back slats. Again the Destaco clamps hold the leg in position to accurately hold the leg in position. Matthew Anderson's Template Jig This is a really simple jig but its adaptability has made it a lifesaver.

Size the spacer block under the clamps to fit the project. I have a picture of the jig routing a replacement guitar bridge. After roughing it out with a bandsaw I fastened the broken bridge to the new piece with double stick tape. Rout one side and then turn it around! I also use it for making kitchen pullouts.

This time with a bottom bearing bit. Fred Kachelhofer's Sled for Cutting Small Pieces When trying to cut small pieces such as pen blanks in preparation for drilling, I was always uneasy trying to hold the piece in place safely.

Now turn on the saw and slide the sled forward to make the cut. Repeat as necessary. It was time to build a miter jig that has adjustable wings on both sides.

I can now dial in 45's with extreme accuracy by adjusting the angle on each wing. The blade gets buried in the center rail for safety. The toggle clamps are adjustable in and out to accommodate varied stock width and height. The fence stretches both left and right of the saw. The top has a measuring tape attached for setting the cut length.

The edges have UHMW to make durable and accurate stop references. The stop has two adjustable acrylic plastic strips with hairline indicators on them, one on each side, so the stop can be used on either left or right of the saw, and be independently calibrated. The acrylic strips are in a dado so they are close to the measuring tape on top of the fence, but do no rub or wear against it.

Finally, a toggle clamp is used to hold the stop in place on the fence. The inside face of the fence has pressure-sensitive adhesive sandpaper on it to help hold the stop from sliding. The clamp foot has been replaced with a larger plywood pad to increase reach and allow a non-slip surface to be attached to it to provide further resistance to sliding.

The toggle clamps allow me to cut small pieces of stock and keep my fingers away from the blade. If I am making multiple small pieces the same size I use one of the toggle clamps to hold a stop block and the other to hold my work. One of my favorite projects is a Mission Style Coat Tree. When making the vertical base portions I utilize toggle clamps to hold the wood in my jig, making the work safer and more accurate on the router table.

A guide rail slides in a groove on the backside of the jig. With this jig the full length of the bit can be used for deeper mortising capability than some other jigs allow. The larger size of this jig makes for easy mortising setup of small and large work pieces alike. Large vertical base plate and vertical slider plate 18" square each remove for easier storage.

Jig top plate is made from a scrap of Corian solid surface material. It's dimensionally stable and the router base plate slides very easily on it and it looks cool to me. Bench vice and dogs could be used to secure the jig as well. An adjustable toggle clamp fixture is used to allow any work piece size to be clamped firmly near center. This significantly reduces any movement or vibration when routing and makes for very accurate and perfectly fitting loose tenons.

Lateral stops to limit router travel side to side is very easily set. Ability to cut mortises on the edge of a board as well as on the ends. No additional base plate is needed to be attached to the router only an edge guide. Amazingly fast, accurate, clean, and repeatable mortises. Overall: a joy to use. I find the table saw too dangerous for box joints, I don't like my hands close to the blade.

This jig keeps your hands away from the router bit. It slows things down but it makes it a lot safer. Just align your mark with the inside kerf in the sled, clamp down on the jig and your all set. Great way to keep your hands away from the blade. Simple, safe and easy to use. Danny Hellyar's Sliding Board Jack This jig is a sliding board jack to assist in holding stock to the front of my work bench for working an edge with a saw, hand plane, etc. I designed this using two Bessey adjustable toggle clamps, one to hold the stock against the workbench plus an in-line toggle clamp on the opposite side near the floor to secure the board jack snugly to the floor.

All measurements are included in the drawings. Photo 4 shows the fixture with a spacer inserted to raise the clamp for a thicker workpiece. David Springer's Clamp for a Sliding Miter Saw I really like my Makita sliding miter saw, but the hold-down clamp has very limited range and capability.

I wanted more options for clamping. So, I decided to make my own clamp with greater range and options for holding wood. I drilled a hole through that piece of wood. I inserted a hold-down bolt through the hole, long enough to span the distance from the frame below the miter saw and through a small platform that rides on the saw table.

I screwed a knob onto the bolt. I made the platform wide enough to attach a toggle clamp. Craftsman bar clamps are ideal for holding wood pieces together while glue dries or securing a work piece to your bench when drilling or shaping. They come in a range of lengths up to 3 feet, and their grooved jaws easily hold flat and round materials.

The jaws can be reversed, and this turns the clamp into a stretcher or spreader. C-clamps from Ivy Classic and Westward are forged from high-tensile steel to hold heavy objects in place.

Their plated-steel screw is very durable, and the pin handle gives you the grip for secure clamping. Spring-loaded clamps are inexpensive, and you'll find many uses for them at home or in the shop. Clamps are used for a wide variety of household and automotive projects. For instance, a C-clamp always comes in handy when you're replacing brake pads on your car.

Clamps also are needed whenever you use a miter box with a saw. This is essential when getting a precise angle on your cut is important. You'll find miter boxes from Mintcraft and Task Force that are made from tough plastic that resists scoring.

Using a clamp with a miter saw is helpful whenever you're cutting wood or PVC so you can make cuts up to 45 degrees right or left. You'll find many uses at home or on the job for nut drivers. We carry sets of seven to 14 nut drivers in standard, metric or both. A full range of traditional c-clamps.

Light duty to 40, lbs of load test. Highest-quality pliers with unique applications. Edge clamping can be tough. Bessey has a variety of solutions to meet your needs.

Simplify face frame construction. For smooth use with rail guides. Laminate flooring tools.

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