One at each end and centered on the bar It was easy to do and would not affect the operation of the clamp. The one thing I HATE about the Rikon is, the lower wheel shaft is adjustable and, if out of adjustment, band saw for large logs 01 cause the blade to pulse, band saw for large logs 01 drive belt to rub against the housing and so on. If more pressure was needed, it's time to sharpen or replace the blade, or adjust the saw set up. You get a powerful, highly competent band saw, which is a minor league version of its bigger brothers, without sacrificing essential features and functions as well as a few extras. One advantage I can think of for working to the right side of the blade is the ability to install a screw jack between the table surface and upper wheel support. Buy on Amazon.

This lathe is mainly used to horizontally cut or slab-cut log s of a large or middle diameter or re-saw timbers into slabs and square log s of various specifications and It smoothly runs at a high efficiency In com Sawing Width mm Max. Its operation is efficient and balanced. With comp Brenta log band saw - Flywheels mm Brenta log carriage - electric clamping - electric thinkness setup. The log feeder from the feeder can be adapted to any band saw model to which hydraulics have been installed.

In case the saw is not equipped with hydraulics, delivery including a hydraulic distributor on the maga Second hand machine: Block band saw horizontal Year of manufacture: approx.

Second hand machine: B With the possibility of e Advanced filters. Show more options. Show listings Reset filters. Used log band saws - listings. Advanced Filters. Hide Advanced Filters. Hangzhou, China. MJ High Efficiency Desktop Band Saw Machine inch This lathe is mainly used to horizontally cut or slab-cut log s of a large or middle diameter or re-saw timbers into slabs and square log s of various specifications and It smoothly runs at a high efficiency In com Hardinxveld-Giessendam, Netherlands.

Log s hopper with feeding to PP-1 band saw The log feeder from the feeder can be adapted to any band saw model to which hydraulics have been installed. The clamp is only needed to stabilize the log, so it doesn't roll. If the log is allowed to roll, it will destroy your blade and could be dangerous, if your hand were anywhere near the blade and pulled right cutting on the right of the log or left cutting on the left of the log into it.

When using this jig, if you make your initial cut using the fence and cut to the left of the blade, on the side where the clamp secures the log, the blade will push the fence down, against the table. So the log cannot roll, if the clamp is secured adequately. Of course, you must make sure the blade will clear the clamp. If you make your first cut on the right side of the blade, the blade will want to pull the log down on the right, thus trying to lift the jig.

In both instances, like feeding wood through any saw, you should maintain control of the log and Band Saw For Large Logs Zero jig. I make most my initial cuts on the right side of the log. Merely holding the jig, at the fence, has been adequate. If more pressure was needed, it's time to sharpen or replace the blade, or adjust the saw set up. After that, , then reconnect the jig to allow me to get another straight line cut off the fence, ninety degrees off the first.

After that, the sled is no longer needed. To build this jig, or sled, you need: 1 A bar Horizontal Band Saw For Logs 01 clamp long enough to clamp Band Saw For Milling Logs Table both ends of the logs you are going to mill into boards this doesn't ruin the bar clamp and it can be removed and used for other things. Keep in mind, equipped with a three foot clamp, this jig can be closed down to hold a log only a few inches long. As such, you can use a four foot bar clamp, if you don't mind the excess. If desired, the sled could be modified to use heavier duty half or three quarter inch pipe clamps.

Since your pipe clamp jaws do not reach out as far as the bar clamp jaws, it would be easier to cut some logs on the left. However that would add weight and be more difficult to handle. I also glued mine, but, with screws, that shouldn't be necessary. Regarding the two pieces of plywood used to build this log cutting jig, the clamp will rest on the first pieces and the second is only to keep the clamp away from Band Saw For Milling Logs 64 the fence, so it doesn't catch.

More specifically, the second piece of plywood provides the smooth surface needed to move the log along the fence. The bar portion of the clamp will lay on the edge of the plywood and will be secured to it at both ends. Because the clamping parts of the clamp stick out from the bar, a notch will have to be cut out of both pieces of plywood, at the non-moving edge, sufficient to allow the bar to sit flat on the plywood and so that the shim piece of plywood can mount flush to the pieces supporting the clamp.

Similarly, a long notch must be cut for the moving part of the clamp, so that it can move up and down the length of the bar. Leave at least an inch and a half " at the end, for the end of the bar to rest on. Question 1 year ago on Step 3. Did you have to drill a hole through the bar? Answer 1 year ago. Good question. I drilled a couple holes. One at each end and centered on the bar It was easy to do and would not affect the operation of the clamp.

The farther toward the ends of the clamp the holes are drilled, the better, since the holes will be where the clamp mounts to the wood and their position will determine how far the clamp opens or closes. Here is another photo to allow you to see where I put the mounting screws for both ends. Richard, I have a Powermatic saw and like it a lot.

Part of that is because of the Carter Tension Release, the brushes for the tires, the bearing blade guides and the mobile base that came with it. Of course, these things can be added, and things like the bearing guides get argued about on woodworking lists. I did move the light to the bracket holding the upper guide bearings. Before, it was difficult to position and got in the way during blade changes. After, it was perfect. My friend saved about six hundred and went the Grizzly route.

He's had it a few years and is very happy with it. It can be upgraded with the equipment I noted above, including a riser block. I bought my buddy's nearly new Rikon to dedicate to re-saw work.

I swapped the stock guide bearings to the quick adjust, which I recommend. The one thing I HATE about the Rikon is, the lower wheel shaft is adjustable and, if out of adjustment, can cause the blade to pulse, the drive belt to rub against the housing and so on.

It's a bear to get adjusted, which mine was not the belt kept running to the case and rubbing against it. If I go to a bearing supplier, the same bearings cost me about twelve bucks, including shipping, for eight. EDIT: Regarding the lower wheel adjustment, after looking about, this is quite common on large saws. After, seeming, endless attempts to get the lower shaft adjusted right, I got there.

By then, I was so disenchanted with the saw I used that as an excuse to sell it it's new owner is very happy with it, now that I worked the bugs out the factory should have caught and bought a 17" Grizzly GOF.

It, also, has an adjustable lower wheel shaft, as do many of the bigger saws. A friend has a Grizzly and thinks it's the cat's meow.

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