I have messy pets and the kitchen will also be tiled. If tabpe house flipper installed directly onto the subfloor one layer only then that is completely wrong no matter what kind of tile is installed. You are very much going about this correctly. Have I gone crazy??! Sort of like a weave pattern.

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Dezeen Awards early entry closes 31 March. MN, USA. On my way to WW as soon as I'm done with work, thanks for the heads-up! CT, USA. This helps when using the Walmart App or Brickseek. I've already started clearing out the local walmarts. I've gotten 25 box of the Federal I haven't been able to find the 12gauge shells or shells.

There is perfecta for 5 bucks. Perfecta at 7 bucks. James Dempsey Jr ban pens, not swords. CA, USA. I always see these threads at work. I just know that everything will be picked clean by the time I try to go by after work. Must be nice to be retired or have a super flexible worl schedule to spend a ton of time checking walmarts. Last time I got in on some clearance ammo was aboutb12 years ago for 9mm Blazer Brass case 9mm for 5 bucks per I drove to 4 walmarts and cleared them all out between 11pm and 1am.

I was surprised they sold to me at that hour. Member of the Free Colorado Resistance. WI, USA. Nothing around here. LA, USA. What are the sku's? AZ, USA. Your local might be able to order it in. That is a very logical and clearly stated opinion. Just a hint: that's not really what we do here -- Cyborg OH, USA. Nothing at my Walmart. Did buy a pack of Federal. FL, USA. I stumbled on this.

Might want to check your local walmart. Originally Posted By evnash: Seems like every two days we get a new walmart ammo thread. I chatted with a manager and she said a large reset is coming to the ammo section so much more will move to clearance in the coming weeks 1 - American Eagle.

Didnt they used to carry federal. That was it. No ammo at all on sale. Like this one Care to share the SKUs? Some tips for those looking. They usually know what is on clearance and sometimes have overstock in a cage. AR, USA. Originally Posted By jnfuga2: Got 10 of those last night. Ive been out of the 22 market for a while, is it officially back? Stop the violence Turn, draw, and engage. Nothing on sale around here.

Where in AL? KY, USA. Wanted some 12ga,. We are going to have a contractor lay wood like tile. Does a shorter length tile pose any issues? Are there any questions we should be asking or contractor? Typically the longer the plank the more difficult the installation. This comes from two different angles. The longer planks are harder to cut lengthwise so it will depend on what equipment the contractor has to make cuts.

Longer planks are bigger, more awkward, and harder to work with. Shorter tiles are a little easier. Ask your contractor what kind of thinset they are going to use. They should answer with some sort of large tile mortar. Versabond LFT is good. What is your opinion? Have you seen this type of tile laid in herringbone style? Also, what is your opinion on porcelain vs ceramic tile?

I have messy pets and the kitchen will also be tiled. Thank you so much!! It is reasonable to add more tile to the order- especially as compared to doing a random overlap. I have a hunch that the contractor simply may not be comfortable installing a herringbone pattern. NTCA recommends spreading mortar with the short side Table Saw Blades For Sale 2021 of plank tile, but everything I see is always lengthwise with tile. Is there a preferred method?

The part that is really bugging us is that we have areas where there is noticeable lippage. Sounds like you are saying that he may not have leveled the floor well enough. I think I am getting on his nerves now but, want these 3 areas to get fixed if possible. Am I being unreasonable? They all happen to be in major high traffic areas. Now i will probably need to buy more tile to get these straightened out. What you are asking is probably not unreasonable. These areas can be fixed but oftentimes when you fix one area the adjacent area is now uneven.

I am really grateful to the series of posts. I was wondering what kinds of tiles would look good for my bathroom. I intend to run the planks lengthwise because I feel it would look better.

Is there be any reason to consider running them the other way? The best orientation is whatever will look the best. We will be installing the tile on concrete after we remove carpeting. The room has two doorways; one leading to an outdoor porch, and the other leading to the kitchen. Currently, the kitchen has linoleum installed over concrete.

The plan is to do this one room before we move into the house, and eventually to do the rest of the basement, including the kitchen, with the same type of tile. What is the best way to transition to the current kitchen floor, that will leave us the option of continuing the tile at a later date? The best way would be to leave the edge of the tile.

Those are nearly impossible to remove after-the-fact. The bag of mortar states not to mortar over expansion joints. Am i stuck running the tile along the short side? The expansion joint needs to be honored in the tile assembly. You could also run it the other direction but would still need to cut every tile exactly where the expansion joint is. Also the joint needs to be caulked or a metal profile used such as Schluter Dilex. I just went under contract on a house that was flipped by an investor.

It appears that he did most of the work himself and in a hurry. My question: I paid for a full blown inspection. In the findings, the inspector noted that the newly tiled bathrooms on the second floor would not last more than 6 months. It states they were installed without a proper backer-board and directly onto plywood. In addition, he noted several pictures w tile planks that were already split in half and grout crumbling away from walls etc.

This all went into a sales addendum with other repairs requested. The seller responded with this: The inspector that did your inspection is incorrect about the tiles on second floor. First of all they are porcelain, not ceramic and secondly, they do not require a backer-board when they are porcelain.

They have agreed to change out the broken tiles and when I called the inspector, he said that they may very well not be ceramic but I could hear the cracking and grinding when walking over the tiles and with new replaced tiles, that will get you through until you move in on walk on the floor. What is standard in installation of porcelain plank tiles on a second floor? Is it okay to lay directly on plywood? So confused and about to withdraw my offer. Any professional advice would be greatly appreciated.

House flippers almost never do anything correctly. Instead, every decision is based on costs- and the lowest cost wins. In regards to being installed on plywood: It is considered to be acceptable to install tile, both porcelain and ceramic, on certain types of plywood. The subfloor is also a type of plywood or OSB the stuff with big wood chips in it. Ask the inspector to clarify this.

If the house flipper installed directly onto the subfloor one layer only then that is completely wrong no matter what kind of tile is installed. You might try to get some sort of guarantee on the workmanship of this home.

Good questions and I will have to do a post on buying a flipped house at some point. Sounds like you have a good inspector! We laid it on top of our existing ceramic tile. After the job was done and dried, I noticed that the edges of the tile are not completely flush with other tiles. The job is done and I noticed that the floor is not completely smooth.

We did not use a leveler and the installers did point out that the planks were not completely flat before installation. Is this normal in wood plank tiles? Is there any remedy once the times have been laid and grout is set and dried? If you have some leftover tile you can lay them next to each other and see how much variation there is between them.

Keep in mind that this is the best case scenario and there does need to be some allowance for a bit of variation beyond that. I took your advice an filled in the mat before laying the tile. As I am laying out the tile I realize that the finished height will be much higher than expected. I am trying to limit the finished height but not looking to cut corners.

Is the smaller trowel too small? I can test a tile for coverage. I am assuming you still want a measurable thickness of thinset under the tile. Also the tiles will be back buttered with a thin layer of thinset. One other additional question. When I filled the mat I used an unmodified thinset from my local tile shop. The tile shop said the thinset is high quality, which i believe, but the Kerabond T is recommended for large format tile. Do you see an issue with mixing these and setting the tile with the Kerabond T?

The purpose of the trowel is to get an even and appropriate amount of mortar underneath the tile. You call probably address this by applying more thinset to the center during the back buttering process. Can you give me some advice or informations about putting the wood tile on the electric heating system. I have to put this wood tiles in kitchen. Please let me know a little more specifically what your questions are.

We have an garage we are turning into a little gift shop and want to put tile planks on the floor. Currently we have concrete floor that 1. Has glue from carpet that was previously installed 2. Unlevel and chipping concrete I know that if the subfloor is t level we will have issues with the tile. What do you recommend to do with the chipping concrete and the parts where there are big chunks of concrete missing Particularly near the walls.

Would you recommend a concrete board overtop the original flooring before laying the tile to be safe than sorry? Home Depot has a similar product but the brand escapes me. This would be for the big deep holes. This will flatten the whole floor. If you are doing this yourself then try to read up and get as educated as you can with self-leveling techniques.

There is a learning curve to it. Honestly, with all the money spent on self-leveling you might look into your area and see if you can find some skilled tile installers to do the floor prep.

Depending on where you live these types of installers may be difficult to find. From there grinding the concrete is the best way to prepare the floor for tile. I put down 3 and had to pull them up. Then three more and pulled them up too. I am trying again. These tiles cut really nicely. Have I gone crazy??! Otherwise I might have to change to some other tile and cut my losses.

I have successfully done a lot of 10 Table Saw Blade Lowes 45 other tile sizes… Help. Opening up the grout joints is a good idea. Your tile may even have a recommendation on them somewhere as to what grout joints size to use. So you could have offsets of 4,6,8,10, and 12 and mix then all up so that the rows start at different random spots. This will help things significantly. The best thing to do is what I explained in my post about getting one row flat across before running the next row.

You may have to keep picking the tiles back up and adjusting them. But the flatter you get the rows the easier it will go. Perfection may not be possible. But try to get the main walkways and areas that are visible as flat as possible.

Thank you for answering so quickly. I really appreciate that. I will take your advice and continue with the one run and I will vary the sizes so they are more random.

I will like that look. I also have a problem keeping the thin set batches consistent and then working fast enough. On to the tub to shower tips next. Great tips there too. Thank you for such helpful information. The new floor was completed yesterday and I have a couple of questions. The tile Italian porcelain, wood-look-alike was bought and installed by a local company which seemed to have a good reputation.

The edges are 8 x 32 rectified. Is this a defect in the tile? Is this a common problem? The floor is quite uneven. The sides are lower than the middle. I expected the 8 bags of self-leveler to be put down first, and tile installation the following day.

Is this the usual procedure? Side to side seems OK i. If I run a straight edge from one tile to the next on the 8 in side , it will be stopped, i.

Sometimes the left side of the tile will be OK but not the right. The crack suppression membrane is good. Ideally, the crack suppression membrane would be located as close to the tile as reasonable, which is on top of the self-leveling. The proper procedure is to flatten the floor first and install tile after that unless the floor was already flat enough. This is highly unlikely. Plank tiles oftentimes have a bow, or a crown, to them. Hello there. We were told if entering through the front door the tile should be placed in a vertical pattern, is there any truth to that?

I my self like the vertical look I feel I can appreciate the wood like grain in the tiles, being that there is direct sunlight shining on the tiles. Placing them horizontally it looks to busy and chopped up. Should I be factoring in on the fireplace being my focal point and perhaps running the tiles towards the fireplace?

Or, laying them down towards the window vertically? This blog is about the installation end of the tile world. Yes, you can randomly stagger the joints.

Now you, as the homeowner, can choose to exceed that maximum if you like. But check with the tile manufacturer to see if they have a different recommendation. I am having wood look tile installed throughout my home soon and the contractor wants to sand the floors, meaning we have to move everything out. Please tell me there is a better way? I read every article and all your information answered any other questions I had, thanks so much.

See my comment above. Schluter just came out with a product for this. They have dust controlled sanding equipment now. Now called Floor Dozer. How do you recommend doing expansion joints with wood look tile if the tile is run horizontally but the expansion joint has to be ran vertically across the room?

So the by-the-book way to install movement joints is to run them right across the room in a straight line- pattern, or not. With that being said, a zig-zag does perform better than simply grouting the joint. They should be wider than they are deep. Backer rod helps to accomplish both of those things. I live in the Seattle area and buy my backer rod locally from a store called Master Wholesale.

But you could call them and have them ship it to you. These articles are absolutely fantastic. I will be doing about sq ft. I appreciate your help. Hi Mark, and thanks for your comments about my blog. I was doing some research on wood-look porcelain tiles and the warpage issues and came across your site. Thanks for all of the excellent info.

Am I correct in understanding that the best way to adjust for lippage is by adjusting the floor prior to installation? I have fresh mud.. Most of the tiles layed out dry are flat, however, by the inside wall I notice the lippage in a particular area. Yes, the best way to start is to have everything flat before tiling.

The work done prior will pay off with a faster and better looking tile install. Parallel or perpendicular to the front entry? Can 6 X 24 tile be laid tight against a tub in a bathroom? Not so with a tub. I understand your apprehension. Quick question! The manufacturers reco is not stagger by more than 20cm Ceramica Rondine.

I was thinking whether it could make sense to use 3mm spacers between them on the long side and only 1. Any thoughts on using different size grout lines? Second we plan to the tile run perpendicular to the front door. I pray you are on your computer recovering from New Year as they want to get our pattern tomorrow and i just came across your great blog today! Happy New Year!

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