Its designed such that the legs can be taken off during transportation. This DIY outdoor table is functional, durable and attractive. That's before you even account for me with all of my DM shit taking up a chunk of surface area. Pink when the bard starts playing Barry White in woodworking plans gaming table design tavern to seduce wenches? It can be completed within a few days following the plan.

On top of that, the options I found that were remotely reasonable in cost were not what I was looking for aesthetically speaking. Now, I won't name any companies specifically, but I'll just say that if i'm going to get a gaming table that is to be considered in any way ultimate , it's sure as sh! The following is the process of building my custom gaming table, with notes and descriptions of what I did, in case anyone reading is interested in building one for themselves:.

The first thing I did was search around on the internet for plans for a gaming table build. Like I said, I had a general idea that I needed a fairly large, rectangular table with a gaming pit set down into the surface and panels of some sort that could be put in and taken out to convert it to a regular table when not in use, no break down of my game setup required. I found a set of plans that seemed fairly popular for people doing home builds of tables, which I will link to at the end so you can use that as an additional resource if you are trying to recreate this build.

The only issues I had with the plans and walkthrough video that the original creator put together was that they were a little vague about certain details, missing measurements in some places and the table he was building was only 4X4, and had a monitor mounted in it. I never claimed to be a competent carpenter, I think it's important that you remember that. I went through his plans, watched his walkthrough a couple of times while taking notes, and assembled my materials list based on what I thought I'd need to build his same style table at the dimensions I wanted.

Here is what I came up with:. It will save you a lot of effort sanding and prepping as well if some of that is done for you. Tools that I didn't have but would have been good: Miter saw. I got all my materials and set everything up in the garage.

I had an old desk in there that I used to place the plywood on while building the table, but if you have a couple of sawhorses or some other flat surface to work on, whatever will do. The first thing I needed to decide was exactly what size the table should be. Based on the size of the room I wanted to put it in, and the number of people I needed to comfortably sit around it, I settled on having the play area be 3'x6' with the total dimensions of the table being closer to 4'X7' with the added length and width of the area around the gaming pit that would have cup holders and dice trays set into it.

I cut my plywood down to 3X6 with s circular saw. The basic plan from this point was to build a framework on the underside to make sure the table was nice and sturdy, and then build up and out off the edges of the plywood on the top to create a raised frame around the center. In the original design, there was a cutout and mount for a monitor smack in the center of the plywood there, but I wasn't planning on doing that so I added a third support right in the middle to make sure it was nice and sturdy.

The two sides of this 'ladder' looking thing are the exact same length as the plywood, while the horizontal supports are 24 inches and spaced evenly, using the center one at the exact middle of the table as a reference.

WIth everything centered lengthwise and widthwise, I took a pencil and marked the outlines where the supports were and removed them. I took my drill and pre-drilled holes where the supports would be attached to the plywood. I always try to pre-drill, as it reduces the risk of splitting the wood, or stripping a screw half way in. The next step here would be to put on the first piece of framing, what would essentially create the border around the play area plywood surface.

This took some figuring as it was poorly marked on the original plans I had, and the walkthrough video didn't cover it, but this framing is done by cutting the two pieces on the long sides of the table so they extend past the end of the table, while the pieces on the short sides sit inside.

The thing that tripped me up was figuring out exactly how far out the two side pieces needed to stick. What I ended up doing was attaching the two short pieces to the plywood first, since I knew they were exactly the width of the plywood.

I then set it on the ground and laid pieces out to mock everything up so I could measure. Essentially, what you are starting here is the framework that the top piece with the cupholders and stuff sits on, the short piece that was just secured being flush with the 1x6 that creates that top. If that was confusing, sorry. Hopefully the pictures going forward will help you understand how it all goes together.

The next thing to do is cut out all these little nubbin boys here. They are made by taking 2X4's, cutting them once to make 5' pieces, and then cutting those lengthwise to shave off about and inch.

These are going to be the braces that go all around the frame we have put up and become supports to make the outer area nice and strong, since that's where people will be leaning.

I made 12 of them, and arranged them like this:. The long sides got four each, while the short sides got two. You can kind of see now how those long pieces create two additional supports on the corners. I probably messed this up a little bit with my placement on the long sides with these. I probably should have spaced them out more so that the corners had a support down right at the end just like the short sides do.

It all went together fine and seems sturdy, so I guess it's not that big a deal. This is where stuff started to get a little tricky for me in particular as I didn't have a nice table mounted miter saw for making 45 degree cuts.

I was working pretty much exclusively freehand. My hand circular saw did angle to make a 45, but I pretty much had to rely on a steady hand to make it even. Using the long pieces of the interior part of the framework as a guide the shorter edge of the angled cut lined up with the end of the other piece of wood I made the two of those with the 1x4s and attached them so that I could set my shorter pieces on top and mark where to make my cuts. The next step I outline, should be done before you put these pieces in place.

It will make your life much easier. Here it is assembled. The angled pieces get slapped onto the outside of the framework we've created out of our long inner boards and 2x4 nubbies. Two finish nails go into the board at the site of each support with wood glue to seal it all. I also put two nails in each corner to help pull them more flush. Like I said I was freehanding that sh t, so it didn't come out as perfect as I'd have liked. It's inexpensive. A tough, stable workbench that only takes an afternoon to build.

I have never regretted being picky about my stock selection at the lumberyard, but I have sometimes regretted not being picky enough. When faced with stacks and stacks of construction lumber at a ….

Coffee Table Upgrade! What's the job of a coffee table these days? Rest your drinks on? A stable surface for the odd TV dinner? Rest your feet on? How about storage?

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