With this planer, you get a block plane, wooden block plane plans youtube plane, and a scraper plane. Choosing between these two really comes down to your preference and strength. Put your tools away in cupboards or cases at the end of each work session. It shows many similar features as that of other Japanese tools and is still priced very less. This is made up of hard and tempered steel, making this tool very productive, wooden block plane plans youtube, and durable. There is a cam lock for quick release, which ensures the fast removal of the blade.

A Hand Plane is a specialized tool designed to hold a sharpened blade to accomplish a specific woodworking task. It is usually pushed or pulled along a surface to cut or smooth a piece of wood.

Prior to the introduction of motorized power tools, hand planes were needed to bridge the gap between rough lumber and finished projects. However, properly tuned hand planes can give you superior results when it comes to smoothing and other fine work. Using hand tools in conjunction with power tools is an advisable strategy to follow for most of your woodworking projects.

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Make sure to hold your iron up to the bedding surface and verify it will extend far enough to reach through the sole of the plane, even after sharpening a number of times. Some prefer to remove this trough using a router table with a straight bit, but I scribe mine by hand, and use my router plane to evacuate the needed material.

Scribe this setting on the top edge, so you know the depth at which to stop the router plane. Figure 5 - Center section showing trough on bedding at red arrow.

The next step is to lightly dry clamp the two sides to the center section. Make sure they are lined up with one end flush to each other, while sitting on a known flat surface. Lightly clamp the front section in this position and use a sharp pencil to draw the location of both middle sections on the wall area of both sides. The area between the two lines, on each side, is the glue-free zone.

On a flat surface, put down either wax paper or a thin silicon mat, which will be your reference surface for the glue up. Gather the clamps you plan to use in the process and set them so they are open enough to go on easily, but close without a lot of work. Get your glue out I use a good yellow or white glue and have a small brush or scrap of thin wood ready to spread the glue.

Set the plane pieces up on the surface, verifying one last time the earlier triangle mark matches on all pieces. Take the top edge of each side and push it away from the center section, so it lays on the surface with the glue surface facing up. Carefully stand the three pieces up on their sole area.

Put glue on the other side section, using the same procedures. Stand the second side up and carefully put it into position.

While holding the back center portion and sides flush on the flat surface, apply a clamp lightly to the center of that section. Do the same with the front section; again making sure the center section is in alignment with the two sides at the sole. Begin adding additional clamps over key areas, starting with just behind the bedding surface, down close to the sole. After all of your clamps are in place, verify that the bottom of both middle sections are flush with the sides, and quickly adjust them if they are not.

Let the glue set for a minimum of an hour with the clamps on, but if you have the time then you should let it set overnight.

I have tried both and luckily ended up with equally solid planes. Remove the clamps and clean up any additional glue that squeezed out on the sole. The other areas will not matter since you will cut them away as you shape the plane, so there is no reason to waste your time and energy. Using the sliding bevel gauge, set it so it matches the angle of the bedding surface.

Line the gauge up on the outside of a side, matching it with the rear of the mouth, and draw a line. While holding them in place, draw a small line along the back of the chip breaker in the area of the horizontal line drawn earlier. This small line represents where the back of the chip breaker will sit in the plane. Use an awl or another pointed tool to mark at the indicated point to help align the drill bit for the starting location.

If you wish, you can choose to glue a dowel into the through hole after the rod is in place. Figure 6 - Cross-rod holes actual rod at left with bed angle in pencil on side. Put the rod into the plane so it is at full depth, then make a little mark flush with the outside of the plane.

You can cut the mild steel rod with either a hacksaw or a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool. Just take your time and work around the rod, until there is a little section holding it together in the middle. With gloves on since it can be quite warm just bend it back and forth a few times and it should snap free. Use a smooth metal file to remove any burrs and clean up the ends before use.

Take the center triangular section from earlier and lay out the wedge so so that the smooth surface will be against the chip breaker. This will give you some choices. You can test out both ends of the spectrum to find what is best for you. Next, draw a line between the first and last mark. This is your basic wedge shape. You can cut it out so either it is just that the full length is the basic wedge shape, or you can make the top wider and round it over.

After choosing your style and cutting it out, it is time to verify that it works properly. This is accomplished by putting the wedge in with the iron, and lightly tapping the wedge. Remove the wedge and look at the contact it made with the cross-rod. If there is a shiny line all the way across the wedge, or shiny areas on both edges, you are golden. If not, grab some grit sandpaper and a small dowel or awl.

The concept is that the high points are those that make contact with the cross-rod causing burnishing, which result in the shiny surface. Take the sandpaper and wrap it around the dowel or awl, using a light touch, sand ONLY the small shiny areas.

Figure 7 - Wedge with initial contact sanded and ready for next test fit missed early stage photos. Re-insert the wedge, lightly tap, and check to see if any further adjustments are needed.

This will hold the iron consistently in the plane, making it much easier to adjust the iron and have it stay where you put it, without needing to wail on the wedge. Figure 8 - Wedge about finished with sandpaper around awl and alternate sander. This will put the plane body into tension, and provide the best results. If there are any section s of the sole that still have glue remnants, put some sandpaper on a known flat surface and take a few careful light passes.

Once all of the glue is gone, you can shift to using a jointer plane my preference set for an extremely light shaving, or you can continue using sandpaper. The main reason I prefer to use a jointer plane for this process is due to the control it affords, lessening the chance I might accidentally mess up the sole of my new wooden plane.

You can hold the plane body in the bench vise so you can focus a bit more on maintaining the correct orientation of the file and its controlled little movements for this process. Orient the file so the front tip is leaning slightly forward towards the toe of the plane, as this will provide the space for the shaving to pass when you finally have the iron reach through.

Make very small strokes with the file, starting at Wooden Toy Box Plans Youtube one sidewall and shifting over incrementally until you reach the other. At this point of opening the mouth, check the iron in the plane after every pass with the file. If you don't check often, then It's easy to accidentally remove too much wood and end up with a throat opening that is too wide.

Many times, one side of the iron will start to show through the sole before the other. If this occurs, completely avoid the area where the iron is already through and focus attention on the other sections, trying to blend them into the completed portion.

Stop when you finally feel the iron through the sole, all the way across the plane. If you keep the mouth tight, then it will provide the best support for the wood fibers you are about to cut, as well as the best surface.

Ultimately, with this support being so close to the cutting edge, there is less of a chance for tear-out. Figure 9 - Sole of plane with toe at left red arrow is where cutting edge of iron meets throat, with no visible gap. You can now either practice setting your iron, and then work on the shape of the body, or do this in reverse. I like to test the plane before going for final shaping; just in case some major issue is hiding that will prevent the plane from working.

To set the iron for use, start by setting the sole of the plane on a flat board. Place the iron down onto the bedding section and center it in the opening, remembering to also put the cross-rod back in place.

Now slide the wedge down into the plane and while pulling back on the iron slightly, push the wedge firmly into place with your thumb. From the top of the plane, look down through the mouth to see if the cutting edge looks parallel to the opening. It can help to have a bright light shining on a light colored board or paper as a backdrop behind the mouth.

Now it's time to start advancing the iron gradually forward, using a lightweight hammer, contacting in the center of the back of the iron. Carefully feel the sole to determine when the iron is through. When you can just barely feel the iron, set up a test board on its edge in your vise.

Push the plane down the board, with one side of the plane just barely on the board. Repeat with the opposite side of the plane. If one side is producing a heavy shaving, while the other has nothing, then use the lateral tapping of the iron to balance the results. If you are having trouble getting a nice light shaving and after adjusting, it goes from nothing to a thick shaving that almost jams, you might have a slight bump on the sole of the plane, just behind the mouth.

Check for this with a good straight edge, with the blade slightly retracted but with the wedge tight on the iron. If you do find a bump, a few light strokes with a block plane confined to the target area can resolve the issue rapidly. An alternative solution would be to back the iron out very slightly and again set the wedge, then take the plane to sandpaper on a known flat surface.

Scribble with a pencil on the area that is high, and when that is gone the sole is likely to be in good shape.

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