Weekend woodworker box 40 up today- this is a class you will not want to miss! I was compelled wewkend pick it up. Sharpening the tools will also be covered. We will begin with some history of cane, rush, wicker and a wide assortment of seating styles. I enjoy the process of taking that which has been neglected and bringing new life to it. If weekend woodworker box 40 we will at least discuss and demonstrate it.

Been there got the tee shirt. But, you are quite right, buying old tools can be more trouble than they are worth.

Occasionally I have found some tools which have proven themselves very worth while. Regards Geoff. This is some great advise. I have had some great finds such as 3 wooden rebate planes banded together for the price of one, but they had no irons or wedges.

I also bought a plough plane for next to nothing, why so cheap? It did work out but this is not something that the faint of heart may want to try. That would be a good laugh for a first timer! I do have to say I take my hat off to you, that must have taken a lot of patience. After watching YouTube videos of people making LH threaded rods and nuts and people using unbelievable complicated jigs, finally I contacted Bill Anderson and he got me on the right path.

Just spend a wonderful week near Salisbury and bought 2 old chisels 38mm and 30mm for 4 pounds each in an antique Shop. Heavy Sheffield steel, beautiful handles which show signs of a Long history of work. Took me 5 hours of work to restore them. My MHG chisels of the same sitze now live in a nearby community workshop.

Well done Richard that post contains such good advice………pity I did not see such advice before I built my collection of 50 moulders….. Wow for five hours restoration work. On two chisels! To me that equates to almost three sets of six new Marples splitproofs, one set at 25 for boasting out concrete oak, the second set fine and polished to shave the hairs off ones arm a very stupid thing to do.

And one spare set for the borrowing buggers. Admittedly they are not Ikeda Nomi. But then…..! Thinking, drawing and making is the joy……yes and restoring. A recently acquired cottage far off the beaten track in the Spanish mountains has taken me back 50 years, to my youth, with a handful of simple tools, a knocked up bench from pallets that straddles a wall, and I have re found that simplicity and adaptability of the ordinary;. Yes I sometimes return to my painty pointy workshop in the UK and wonder just what on earth all this stuff is for..!

My big idle Wakin babes actually look quite forlorn and forgotten.. Happy days. Yours aye Julian. I wish I was capable of building a workbench in a weekend. Working on saw horses using the same dovetail style joinery at the same time. The laminated legs and rails are ready, after machine prep. I find it interesting that you recommend avoiding second hand saws. I have found them to be a very cost effective method of obtaining great quality tools.

I enjoy the process of taking that which has been neglected and bringing new life to it. I have learned a plethora about sharpening through my restoration of old saws. It has carried me through the joinery for my modest hobbyist production of a dresser, six side tables, two stools, a sideboard, a tool chest and blanket chest, and it is still mostly sharp.

I learned this by buying both a Veritas dovetail rip cut saw and Lie-Nielsen crosscut Carcass saw, both good saws, and finding I prefer the Disston on which I leaned to saw.

I prefer it because I learned on it. I just feel that old saws are an easy one for beginners to get bogged down in. There are some very cost effective new saws that can see you through a lot of projects and teach you what a sharp saw should feel like.

I sometimes think that the old saws are so cost effective that you can easily start hoarding them. On the other hand, if the teeth vary in size, height, and spacing, then there is a substantial chance that a beginner will have trouble getting that saw to work, especially if it is a cross-cut saw.

A beginner should closely examine photos of goofed-up saws, e. I suppose you should sight the tooth line to see that it is reasonably straight, although some saws are breasted. My three favorite saws are rehabs. You only need two or three saws, and can go very far with two.

I must admit, I love restoring old tools as much as I do making things from wood. It really upsets me to see a good old tool misused and abused and then discarded, when it could so easily be resurrected to be better than many modern ones. Rusty irons can stay stained and shabby looking so long as the back is flat and the working edge is perfect.. That camber narrows the cut and the extra weight really powers through the rough stuff.

I have a lovely tenon saw that falls into the same category. I value your privacy and will protect it. You can learn about how I handle information I collect by viewing my Privacy Policy. Send me the Tool List. Learn More. I really love how he always places the focus on the project, not the tools. I am sort of a newbie woodworker and felt he had knowledge that I could benefit from. The design of the bookcase features a plinth base, adjustable shelves and decorative moldings.

This class is designed for beginner and intermediate woodworkers who are interested in learning techniques they can use in numerous home improvement projects. The bookcase utilizes common portable power tools that most homeowners would have or might be considering purchasing.

This class will provide you with the foundation skills needed for more advanced projects such as kitchen cabinets, storage cabinets, entertainment centers, counter tops and more. Sign up today. Space is limited. General Tool list will open in a new window.

This six evening class is designed for the beginning or frustrated woodturner and features extensive hands-on practice each night. Woodturning is a skill that requires some basic instruction and lots of practice. Students are turning on their own lathe most of each night of the class. Class starts with basic spindle and includes a few simple projects like a mallet and spinning tops. We then move on to face plate turning which includes some cherry and mahogany bowls and plates.

Along the way we spend time learning about tool sharpening and general information about lathes, tools, chucks and various jigs used in woodturning. This is a great way to safely get into woodturning and gives you a good foundation for other more advanced turning classes and projects. Have you been intrigued with the idea of learning to turn a bowl but are not ready to commit to a 6 week class?.

This one day class will get you hooked on turning— Guaranteed! Students will learn some of the basics of woodturning and will come away with a finished shallow cherry bowl and the new found knowledge to turn more. Who knows— you might even jump in head first and find a whole new passion!! Sharp tools are essential so we will be spending a little time at the grinder learning about sharpening bowl gouges and scrapers.

Techniques for sanding and finishing bowls will also be covered. This is a great class —even if you have turned a number of bowls already or have never even thought of turning a bowl.

Space is limited to the number of lathes we have 8! Many people have asked for a beginning turning class to be offered in a weekend format. This class will cover much of the same material as the six-night class but because of time constraints we will not be able to cover as much material in as much depth.

The class will cover spindle turning, bowl turning and basic lathe use, safety and sharpening. Students will have the opportunity to make a number of spindle and faceplate projects during the weekend including a mallet, a bowl and a small plate or platter. This is a great introduction to the fascinating craft of woodturning. Many students have asked for a class that offers the opportunity to turn bowls and only bowls. Students will have the opportunity to turn a shallow bowl, a deeper bowl, and time permitting- a third bowl or a plate think very shallow bowl….

Participants will learn to make jigs and fixtures that will be useful in finishing the bottom of any bowl. We will get into the use of a four jaw chuck as well as alternative ways to hold the work on the lathe without using a commercially made chuck. Sharp tools are essential so we will be spending time at the grinder learning about sharpening bowl gouges and scrapers. This is a great class whether you have turned a number of bowls already or have never even thought of turning a bowl.

Space is limited to 8! Turning natural edge bowls from wet local hardwoods can be great fun— and the material is free if you own a chain saw and have access to recently cut down trees….!

We focus on developing an eye for making a pleasing shape while incorporating the bark of the tree as the rim of the bowl. We touch-up your graceful bevel-guided cutting technique thus helping you to form the smooth curves of the bowl. This bowl requires a steady hand as cutting the rim is interrupted--you cut a bit of the high part of the rim then skip to the high part of the other side.

We focus on careful aim to get a graceful curve through this interrupted cut. We shape the outside of the bowl, remount the blank in a chuck and cut the inside. At home, the bowls will dry and can easily be sanded with a round sanding pad in a drill. This class does require some prior experience with woodturning.

Sign up today— class size is limited to 8. Zen of French Polish with John Coffey. French polish is a technique for putting shellac on wood as a finish. Shellac is perhaps the most versatile finish that can be used to finish furniture—it is hard and durable, it is restorable without having to remove it, and best of all it may be the most beautiful finish you could put on a piece of furniture!

One main benefit of French polish is it can be applied in less than ideal finishing conditions. Dust is not an issue as the polish dries almost as soon as it is rubbed on.

The polisher can stop at any time in the process and pick it up at a later date. Best of all, the technique puts very little material on a surface, even irregular ones. As an antique restorer, I am often required to put on a finish that preserves the color and texture of their surface—I cannot sand the surface. French polishing is uniquely suited for this task. The technique follows the undulating character of old surfaces, or handplaned surfaces, filling the grain until the surface is lustrous and polished.

In a two-day class I will show my technique for French polishing by assisting the student in their own project. The student can expect to be well on his way to finishing a small table or chest but, more Weekend Woodworker Box Pdf importantly, will learn the skill of applying shellac using a pad in such a way that only the thinnest of coatings will be between the observer and the object, allowing the natural beauty of the wood to show through.

The woodworker spends so much time selecting just the right board, perfecting his or her technique on cutting dovetails and tenons, why not make sure the work receives what it deserves—the best finish possible.

The old saw is never truer: while a good finish might be able to hide poor woodworking, a bad finish will take away from even the best work. Sign up today! This two day class is tailored especially for woodworkers who are uneasy about the finishing process and wish to master the basic knowledge and techniques that will enable professional finishing results using easily available materials.

The class is a mixture of lecture, demonstration, and has an emphasis on hands on activities that all students will complete using both sample panels and actual small project pieces. In the color world, students will learn the critical differences between pigment colors and dye colors and gain an understanding of how to decode the often confusing information found on the many cans and bottles of colorants. With this knowledge we will use both dyes and pigments in a classic finishing schedule including glazing and toning, and practice some simple steps to achieve rich colors, vibrant grain popping, and also to match existing colors.

Students will also complete some basic furniture repair techniques using epoxy, colored waxes and both oil and acrylic colors to match missing or damaged grain. In the world of topcoats, students will learn how to categorize virtually all finishes into one of five basic families, and how to successfully use products from each family by brush, pad and spray. Students will practice using the proper brushes for each type of finish, including shellac, oil based and water based, and also learn some basic spray techniques using commonly available aerosol products to achieve professional quality results.

In his upholstery work he divides his time between classic furniture and classic cars, while his finishing expertise is based on years of shop experience and the counsel and mentoring of some of the most experienced wood finishers in the industry.

He also writes for the American Period Furniture journal of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers and has completed several instructional videos on upholstery techniques. Sign up today— space is limited. Over the years I have done hundreds of classes which feature projects that teach particular skills.

The problem with these project classes is that the logistics of the class prevent us from spending sufficient time on any given new skill to really understand and gain any kind of proficiency in it.

In this 5 week 4 days per week class there is no project— Just skills, technique and practice. With no project to distract us we are able to spend days rather than hours to insure learning of basic— and not so basic—furniture making skills and techniques. When I changed the format of this class to no project, just skills- I really believe it has become one of the best classes I have offered in years. Everyone really learns a lot and has a great time!

Plan on spending two to three days on the basic milling process— a strong foundation is essential to more advanced techniques. Instead of learning just enough to get through dovetailing a drawer, plan on spending at least three full days— maybe four, on dovetails. With these new hand skills, cutting a dovetail or a tenon by hand turns out to be a pretty simple affair which you will be able to do!

FYI- You will be cutting a set of dovetails every day of this class. Machine set ups? I already know how to set up the machine— so in this class I will not set anything up— You will do that— after my demo and explanation of course. You will learn what it takes to flatten a tabletop— by machine and by hand, and glue up a tabletop— using one clamp and a handplane.

We will get into planning a project, basic wood technology, buying lumber, tool sharpening, cutting joints -by machine and by hand, along with basic finishing techniques. Ornamentation is a big part of fine furniture so plan on spending a few days on working with veneers, inlay and making decorative bandings. It is always good to get a second viewpoint so I have arranged for some guest instructors to spend a day or two with us. Will Neptune will be here to do a day of hands on carving and hopefully Mike Pekovich will be able to stop by to introduce you to some of his design ideas and techniques.

Plan on expanding your ideas on furniture making and design- and plan on taking a few field trips to inspect some of the finest furniture made in Connecticut- entirely by hand! Proficiency in handtools is essential in any high end furniture making and we will spend a lot of our time on just that— plan on spending at least a whole day - probably two- just on working with handplanes— and at least another whole day just on sharpening. Cheaper saws will just frustrate you and after using mine you will probably just end up buying it anyway!

We will emphasize the proper and safe use of common woodshop machinery such as the table saw, jointer, thickness planer, router and bandsaw. The school has a full complement of ready to use high end hand tools and power tools which you are welcome to use. These tools also will give you some experience and guidance in picking out your own tools which you will eventually need to acquire. This class is designed for the serious student who has both the time and the desire to commit to a comprehensive course of study.

It is NOT designed for beginners but rather someone who has done a bit of woodworking and is now ready to get serious and really learn some skills. Basic skills with the tablesaw, jointer and thickness planer are required!! If you are a beginner then you should sign up for the Fundamentals of Furniture Making, Intro to Cabinetmaking or the Woodworking I class.

If you have any questions then please contact me at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. This is an opportunity you do not want to miss. Building this introduces you to many of the techniques used to make a more complicated Windsor style stool, beginning with lumber selection, hand shaping, working with compound angles and all the way through to final assembly.

This class will introduce you to the basic handtools bused in any green woodworking project including drawknife, spokeshave, reamer, adze, scorp and scrapers. We will be laying out and drilling compound angles along with utilizing moisture content and grain orientation to make strong, long lasting chair joints.

We will also be using traditional hide glue for assembly. Join us in this unique class and get a taste of green woodworking and Windsor chair making. Due to the length of the class all turned parts will be provided. Space is limited to 8 students. Have you ever seen those faces with the leaves flowing from them? Join professional woodcarver, Mary May, in carving the traditional Greenman. You don't need any carving experience for this class, as Mary will walk you through every step from start to finish.

She will show you how to carve challenging facial features and curling, overlapping oak leaves. Bring a mirror so you can carve a self-portrait greenman!

If you have ever done any re-sawing then you know how cool a book matched panel can be. When you incorporate veneers into your work the possibilities for creating spectacular patterns are almost endless! Bookmatching is the simple one- but what about radial matching or parquet? Many veneers require a border to protect the delicate edges- so as a bonus we will explore a little inlay work and make a few different decorative bandings. Incorporating veneer designs into your work will open up possibilities that you may never have dreamed of.

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