Never in my life have I had so much difficulty with a paint!!! Was turned sher-wood project 8 to BM Advance and what a nightmare, the paint is great but it was a total lack of knowledge given to me by the owner of the Bm paint store. The Problems Sher-wood project 8 2 biggest things were 1. BelgradeMontana. I am currently doing the drawers because the unit is installed and the drawers are the only part left to do. I am just so fearful of having a chippy mess?

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To get the job done quickly, I use a sander with 40 grit paper. Afterward, I repair dings and dents with wood filler. Next, I sand the surface again with 80 grit, then grit and grit. The step is priming. If the primer does not coat evenly — guess what?

You did a crappy job sanding and left some of the original finish. After applying two coats of primer. I let it cure for 24 hours before lighting sanding. Then I apply the Advanced paint using a spray gun. I painted my kitchen cabinets two years ago, and they still look flawless. The same goes for my desk and built-in bookcase. I did a lot of research and landed on using Advance. Based on the online recommendations and the store manager recommendations here is what I did:.

Took off all doors and drawer fronts. I was meticulous in my application. I used thin coats. I was patient. And it absolutely paid off. My kitchen is stunning. Some added benefits — there have been a couple places that got scratched… from pointy objects. I just sand, apply a dot of primer on any of the base wood that is exposed and follow the same methodology with applying, drying, sanding, applying 2nd coat.

I used satin finish on all of my cabinets. My advice — advance is the best product out there for kitchen cabinets. I have GF milk paint on my cabinets currently and would like to change the color. I am looking at the BM Advanced. Do I need to completely remove the GF milk paint first or will sanding and priming be enough to achieve a good finish? I am doing the same thing. Did you get an answer to your question?

Did you finish you project? Depending upon the retailer, you may not have been given the recommended steps. Others decide not to follow every step and improvise on prep recommendations and products.

The very best recommendation is Stix Bonding Primer which is a thinner primer used for adherence of the Advance or Fresh Start which has exactly the same adherent properties as Stix in it, however also has the benefit of higher hiding qualities to cover darker colours or to provide a thicker coating and fill in very minor imperfections or minimize wood grain. Both of these primers act much like double sided sticky tape, adhering to the item being painted and to the Advance paint. Without it, the Advance will be at high risk of chipping.

After you apply this coat, you will have to be very patient as the second coat must not be applied for at least 16 hours. It is a longer wait time, but the longer wait time is due to it being a waterborne alkyd paint with the benefits of a soap and water clean up.

It is very important to note that the product does not cure to a hard, enamel-like finish for 30 days. After that time, you should end up with a durable, chip-free, peel free finish that will last for years to come.

Items that are placed on a shelf prior to the full 30 day cure are likely to leave permanent indents, again because of the self-levelling properties of the product and the product not being fully cured.

If you are having issues of colour coverage, you also have the option of using a tinted primer. This is usually a rare issue noticed with very bright or deep colours and can also be resolved with a third coat. You can also return to Benjamin Moore to have the product adjusted with more tint. The only people not too many I have ever seen return with disappointment in the product omitted one of the steps or just disregarded the advice about the use of the product altogether.

Almost every customer I have sold this product to that followed the directions has returned to either tell us how pleased they were, buy more for a different product, or has referred friends and family to purchase the product themselves. I have followed these steps as stated by the Benjamin Moore sales person, with the only issue being the primer used. I had already used a Kilz oil based primer before I purchased the paint, and mentioned that before purchasing it and was told it would be fine.

Hopefully they will be. My question though is if I can use a top coat with this and what kind. I am assuming a polycrylic would be ok? Please help no one not even Benjaminmoore can tell me weather to use a oil based or water based poly or acrylic to coat this paint. Leslie, definitely a WB poly, however make sure your paint has cured a spell before applying.

The paint and poly dry at different speeds so uncured paint can shrink and cause your poly to craze. If using general finishes high performance topcoat on Advance, how long does it need to cure before topcoating? Been reading the comments here and saw the one about Emtech from Target Coatings. Best part is he custom matches BM colors. I usually order direct by phone, but I think you can order online too. I sanded it was an antique primed with an oil based primer and painted with a sprayer SW paint, waiting 24 hours between coats and sealing with polycrylic.

It was still tacky and peeling off weeks later. I went back to SW to see if they knew anything that could have resulted in this outcome. After calling a few of their troubleshooters, they came to the conclusion that it was a bad batch of paint. I did notice that it had a strong odor but was not the usual paint smell.

Next time I smell something that doesnt smell like the usual paint smell, I will return vs using. Hope this helps! I had the same problem with the oil based trim paint. It has been 4 weeks since I painted trim in my house with Sherwin Williams ProClassic alkyd interior enamel, and it still smells bad. I cannot use the room after waiting for a month. Moreover, the paint is peeling. There is something very wrong with that paint.

I love BM Advance. I have been painting furniture for years and the durability, shine and smoothness is incredible. I started using it because I could eliminate a top coat.

I use a hvlp gun and wait 24 hours between coats. No humidity here. I think the SW is better constancy, sprays easier and dries a little faster while the BM is slightly and I mean just slightly harder. Supposed to dry hard re-coat in 30 minutes and usable in 12 hours although the person NOT SW employee said he always waits Best feature is water only cleanup.

I just ran across your post this morning — thank you for the detailed review! I painted all of my kitchen cabinets with Advance 2 years ago. That said, they were knotty pine cabinets to start with the original shellac on them. I sanded and primed every single surface before painting. Not sure if that made the difference or not. No problems there. I wonder if part of the problem is in mixing the deep colors? I am in the process of painting a bathroom vanity cabinet in a lighter grey color — again, in Advance — will update on how that turns out.

It is a urethane resin. First I have to say thank you Reeves for posting your experience with Advance. I have had very good success painting furniture in the past using flat latex acrylic and a poly topcoat but thought, like you, that eliminating the topcoat would be convenient. I needed a darker black to match pieces already painted, I thought black was black, but BM Advanced black looked grey in comparison. Now the blackened paint first coat with the same paint pad was ugly and showed primer paint streaks.

So sorry to hear that all of your effort and money went into the project and your results were not as you desired. I have used all sorts of paints for furniture and front doors for over 30 years I am 56 and, hands down, for finish, luster, pop and durability, there is NO paint that can compete with Fine Paints of Europe Hollandlac.

A few years ago I used Advanced on primed kitchen cabinets super smooth crappy laminated dark wood cabinets that were not sanded but just primed with ziesner smart prime I believe. It came out Ok, never had a problem with it not curing but I did leave the doors out in the harsh CO sunshine so they dried nicely. I end up using KILZ primer on some of them. Not a glass like glossy finish but they look OK for the cost and first time effort.

I may try spraying Advanced with the bottom cabinets I still have to do in the next few week, who knows!? I have not had the issue you spoke about it went in a dried I too allow to dry 24 hrs to ensure it is dry. I have used the Behr alkyd enamel and had issues with it being tacky and was worried this might be the same as it is an alkyd.

I am currntky using in a kitchen table but will try a polycrylic top coat to ensure durability. I have used Advance on several large built-ins, dining room table and chairs, and other items. All were sprayed with a Fugi 4 system and primed with BIN. Most were shades of white but the colored pieces turned out the same. Namely wonderful. I live in a low humidity area and that may be helpful because they cured quickly and were hard after about 3 weeks.

And any finish that that takes days to become non tacky is quite possibly a defective batch. The house trim was brush painted and this product smoothes out beautifully. Their is a learning curve both for spraying and brushing and directions should be followed about curing times etc.

Fine Paints of Europe finepaintsofeurope. They seem to have excellent results, and they provide reams of advice and instructions etc to get the optimum results. I think the difference is all the pigment they have to put in the color to get it that bright.

I use other products and it takes a long long time to cure. The paint went on like a dream and has been as durable as the sales person promised it would, hardening very nicely. I cleaned the brick prior to painting, but because it was already newly coated with a flat white paint, I did nothing else to prep the surface. More recently, I used Advance to paint some newly installed, pre-primed baseboard. Again, went on easily and, so far, has done very well.

Somehow it seems that to have so many comments both happy and disappointed on a highly touted, very expensive, major brand product is not actually a win for BM. I have never been unhappy with the product. It takes thorough prep and meticulous painting I paint with a brush and it comes out perfect every time with perfect leveling, coverage and durability. I was also tempted with the thought of easier clean up. It was a mistake. I had 19 double cabinets: 40 doors, 13 drawers, along with book shelves and a coat nook, and of course trim.

Being the ridiculous perfectionist I chose to paint the insides and out of each drawer and cabinet. Prep: 1. Repeat 7 for a third coat. The finish looked great. The doors and drawers started chipping almost immediately. NO, not the insets, the edges where the outside frame of the doors are joined. Then, dings started showing in any places where there was human contact. I was devastated. I feel burned by Advance.

I need to fix all of the cabinets and have no idea whether to repaint with oil, to try to fix with advance only to be disappointed again for an effort wasted, or to burn down the kitchen and move.

I have been using Advance paint for over a year! I started using in kitchen and bathroom cabinets! And have been doing furniture. With that said. But I am able to hang doors after a day dry time, with no tacky ness. I live in Michigan. And I did do a job in Florida and I think the elevation and humidity play a part had a harder time with that application! My paint store guys told me Advance is not recommended to spray!

Prep is key. Gotta degrease and sand with grit before priming and always wipe clean with denatured alcohol! Which I used to do with GF milk paint and high performance but it yellows on whites and off whites for me! Leigh Hi, fellow Michigander. Reading your post in August, Painting my oak dining room table and chairs with Benjamin Moore advance paint. Like clarification on your procedure for painting furniture.

Did you use two coats of primer and two coats of paint on all surfaces? I roughed up the surface of the furniture,Then Used a liquid sandpaper product. Wiped down and let dry, then brushed on Stix primer.

Wondering if I should now sand, and paint on a second coat of primer, or go to the first coat of advance. Can you please clarify? Also, what primer did you use? Paint rep at the store said I only need one coat of Stix —but your post makes me think I should do two coats. Please let me know. Thank you. I used the Advance in a pearl finish color white for all of our interior doors, baseboards and cabinets and it turned out great.

Great to hear! Since this post I have used Advance in Satin on interiors doors, trim and laundry room cabinets. The lamp black to me seems more of a very dark charcoal rather than a true black. I am very reluctant to move away from my topcoat of choice, and wondering if I can blacken the GFMP using something like Sumi ink. I have added quite a few different tints to the GF paint in the past, to make my own colors. If you have an opinion on this please fire away — thanks, Suzanne.

Oh — regarding Gen. These were on built-in projects in which the client had used the product already in the home.

One paint that used to be very good was Muralo Ultra. With Muralo Ultra it did in fact dry as hard as oil, but was a standard 4 hour dry time paint, with only days or so to cure to rock hard.

Truly was amazing stuff. Hi my name is Bill. I enjoyed reading your post and wanted make a few comments which I hope might help. I sell paint for a living and wanted to give out some knowledge of paint.

For the most part there are three main bases of paint white, medium and deep. The last two may have different names but are the same thing. All three bases start out as the same thing, deep base no color Added a clear base. The amount added varies by manufacturer.

Also being an expensive colorant makes the price go up. Now another important part of the issue, the colorants added at the paint store. Colorants are made by suspending pigment powders into a medium. Too much of the colorant added to the paint will make the paint not dry correctly, stay sticky,tacky, chip easy,peeling, and a host of issues.

This problem is more common in darker colors, so paint problems may not equate to a bad paint but instead bad formulations! White paint usually not a problem, because white powder not suspended in the liquid medium is usually directly added to the base paint.

These are going to take a lot of coats. Would General Finishes Milk Paint be good with their topcoat? Do I need to do anything special with the oak grain before painting?

I am just so fearful of having a chippy mess? Dry time is long between coats. I sprayed doors and drawers. TIps: 1. I used Insl-x Stix primer and it is amazing. I used 2 coats, mainly because I really was avoiding sanding. I switched to a shur-line velour roller and it was perfect. Are your cabinets painted already or they raw? So I called BM about their Advance and they suggested applying a waterbased polyurethane on a table top about three to five days after painting with a light sanding in between.

That is contrary to what everyone has posted. Any opinions on that? I have always loved using Muralo paint. It dries rock hard, sprays and coats beautifully. I was recently convinced by my local Benjamin Moore retailer to use Advance, because I was having difficulty with color matching a dark navy color. The results were disastrous. The entire library is still a sticky tacky mess 2 months later.

I really wish I could get a nice solid dark color mixed with the Muralo. I painted my kitchen cabinets last year, with Advance satin. They look marvelous and not a single issue with dings or paint not adhering, as in the main post. Anyone that is painting wood stained cabs that have a shellac or varnished finish, you absolutely must use a shellac-based primer. Using the Advance primer is not going to give the adhesion that is needed on finished wood cabs.

Use Zinsser B. Never in my life have I had so much difficulty with a paint!!! I gave the door a light sanding with grit before attempting to paint.

Let it dry for an hour before trying to paint again. The can was shaken when I first got it, but that was over a month ago. Always the same frustrating result. I notice there alot of conversation on painting furniture with wall paint. There are beautiful paints put there designed specifically for painting furniture that are worth exploring and may reduce your frustrations.

In my opinion I find the best paint for furniture is Fusion Mineral paint. I think what it comes down to is use the paint designed for the job! Hope this is useful. Have been a painter for over 30 years and have painted hundreds of cabinet doors and drawers using sherwin williams , never had any problems. Was turned on to BM Advance and what a nightmare, the paint is great but it was a total lack of knowledge given to me by the owner of the Bm paint store. That being said i will make this short and sweet, do all of your normal prepping however you desire.

It will appear as someone tossed sand into your paint job. Trust me this was a very valuable lesson. Will probably go back to using SW products pro classic …. I wish I had read this article 3 weeks ago.

My project was painting my kitchen cabinets. I was determined to spend the money an expensive paint, in order to obtain a great outcome, and initially I was looking to buy General Finishes, but the sales person recommended Benjamin Moore Advanced as a better paint for cabinets.

Using this paint was a nightmare! I tried thin coat, I tried thick coat. No matter what I did, it still dried with brush marks. The paint starts drying fast, but it takes a long time to totally dry, so after one week, the doors of the cabinets still stick to the cabinet frame.

I ended up applying up to 3 coats of paint over coats of primer to try to obtain a nice smooth surface I used a satin finish , sanding after each coat of course, and I was still unhappy with the outcome, to the point that I ended up using a polyurethane top-coat! Very disappointed! My guess is that because it is such an intense orange the Gennex and employees should have suggested a deep base primer to help with coverage and even durability. Especially outside. Aura semi gloss has great coverage with vibrant colours and durability.

I used advanced paint and very happy with the results. I painted my coffee and end table that are heavily used. I was told to sand and prime then paint. Wait at least 24 hours before applying the 2nd coat. THEN I would wait at least 2 weeks before placing anything on them. Yes my paint was a cream colour. Love the durability. I use a wet cloth to wipe it down when I clean. My husband always has his lap top on it. I will now paint my fireplace and t.

I am currently using advance in satin. My issues are bubbles in the paint. Still bubbles. All my cabinets are flat. I was thinking rolling this paint on would be a breeze. Even when I open the can, bubbles everywhere. Even before mixing. So upset. Is there a different cabinet paint I can go over With?

Or what am I doing wrong. I cleaned, sanded and primed the cabinets. Very upset. I used BM advance in semi gloss Bavarian white on book shelves and would never use it again. I am a diehard BM user primarily because they have almost no odor but this one was extremely stinky. It took over 3 weeks to cure and the smell was horrible.

I was leaving doors and windows open in March to get the smell out. It does seem to be quite durable and non-sticky once it cures. Never had any issues with advance.

You have to follow the instructions on the technical data sheet available on Benjamin Moore website. Use correct primer since this paint is not self-priming. I personally like to use STIX primer. I wanted a glossy and very hard finish. I have stood on it with my shoes on it several times — to fix the track lights that I installed above it — and zero marks or scuffs. Works great on trim and doors, but I would never put it on furniture unless I put a 2k poly clear over the top.

I built my daughter a dollhouse bookcase as well as re-finished an old family dresser and nightstand for her. The entire project was a LOT of work but I loved doing it because it was for my daughter.

When it came time to paint the BM salesrep recommend the Advanced paint. I stumbled on this thread after just finishing the final coat for both and am a little horrified a made a big mistake because of all the effort I put into both pieces.

Would anyone recommend applying a coat of poly over top of the Advance to avoid any of the issues people have been having? Colours are white and light grey. I painted my oak kitchen cabinets 4 years ago with Advance satin. I cleaned them and very lightly sanded.

I primed with kilz water based stain blocking primer. Then I gave the cabinets 3 coats of paint, waiting at least 16 hours between coats. They still look like they did when I finished painting them. I have touched up a few tiny dings.

But these stand up to wear and cleaning amazingly well. It absolutely shows no brush marks. The grain of the oak is slightly visible but in a good way.

I would highly recommend. Used BM Advance in gloss black on my piano. It was terrible. So thick and crazy ridges with every brush stroke, even after I took it back to the paint store and they thinned it with water. I ended up sanding off the texture [not fun] re-priming, sanding again [ugh] and using Rustoleum enamel paint with Penetrol.

Advance is no bueno. Hi, I know you wrote this post a couple of years ago so you are probably tired of hearing about it. I googled reviews and your review pops right up. The title of it says it all. So they pick and choose the key elements. They just took away all the negatives. I just had someone this morning wanting to buy a dresser and she wanted to know the paint brand, type etc. If someone else wants to know, and they see that almost feel like telling them I used a different brand.

I have used Advance only once to repaint a bathroom cabinet. A few things pertinent to paint. First is that normal wall paint has a full cure time of 30 days. Contrast that to a dry to touch time of 2 hours or recoat in 4.

Advance is an alkyd resin in a waterbased suspension. Alkyd is the resin of old school oil based paint. The benefit of alkyd resin is hardness and the drawback is the tendency to yellow.

Alkyds have those characteristics whether water or oil based. My cabinet had excellent leveling in the paint and a very smooth finish. I would give Advance high marks for that. You will have problems if you overwork the paint- once you lose your wet edge resist the temptation to go back and brush more. Using the correct extender can help with that.

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