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12.11.2020Support it with your index finger and apply pressure in different areas to direct removal of the metal. Maintain the angle and move the tool up and down and side to side. Switch sides often. Use a grinder or sandpaper to bevel the back edge of the diamond stone and use the stone to shape the inside of the tool. Clean up the edge. Work your way up through grit, grit, grit, and 1,grit diamond stones.
As you sharpen, steel dust and slivers will obscure the edge. Force the tool into the endgrain of a piece of scrap wood to remove the dust. Work in stages. Remove a little metal, check the edge under a magnifying glass, and repeat until the flat spots disappear. Remove the hook at the base of the V.
This is left over from the shaping of the sides. Zachary - That's a good question; thanks for raising it!
I'm demonstrating the full possibilities for commissioning but it's not always necessary. You are trying to reach a particular goal: the correct edge and bevel profiles, and you need to exercise some judgement as to what's needed to reach that goal.
Sometimes, gouges or V tools need very little work rarely none, but that could be the case , as you - count yourself lucky! At other times you need the full makeover, which of course you only need to do it once; after that it's maintenance.
So, have a good idea what you are trying to achieve; check the tool and make an assessment; then do only what needs to be done. Zachary Shrout 20 November For commissioning a v-tool, what if the tool already has the appropriately low carving angle needed?
I it has both corners, is square, and has the needed low cutting angle, is there a need to commission it as there is no inside bevel?
Chris Pye 25 November Rebecca - Welcome on the path of woodcarving! I never had an electric grinder for the first 10 years I was carving so it's quite possible to get on well without one. Use the coarse stones just like the fine ones and see them as a step before, removing metal quickly. So square on coarse, polish on fine in exactly the same way.
Set the bevels on the coarse bench and slipstones, refine and finish on the fine ones. A grinder just speeds up the initial metal removal.
Rebecca Wood 24 November Hi Chris I am new to wood carving and finding out the first steps of how to sharpen my tools properly. You say if you don't have a grinder you can use a coarse bench stone. But the method is not shown here. Would you use the same principle of holding it vertically? Would you do this and pull backwards as in the next video about polishing? Chris Pye 14 February Robert - I have heard that and it does make sense.
It also begs the question, how hot is 'hot'? I cannot say I've ever noticed an effect, but then I never let the tools get more than finger warm.
Glad you are enjoying the lessons - take it easy on the others! Robert King 14 February I was told by a fellow carver that dipping a hot tool into cold water will create microscopic fractures in the metal. Anything to that? By the way, the biggest drawback to your lessons is that it makes me want to go around constantly correcting carvers on proper tool handling: Fantastic videos. Thanks Chris. All rights reserved. Strop the V-tool.
I use a leather strop to keep my tools sharp. Strop a V-tool the same way you strop a chisel. Place one wing of the tool on the strop with the entire bevel touching the stop. Pull the tool toward you with an even stroke. Repeat the process eight to nine times, and then use the same process to strop the other wing.
If you sharpen the tool properly, you do not have to do anything with the point or apex of the tool. Use a leather shoestring, slip stone, or piece of wood to strop the inside of the tool. Tags: sharpening. Share this post Tweet.
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