Then do build this dust collector using a Harbor Freight 2HP dust collector, cillection environmental filter cartridge, trash can, trash can cyclone lid, dust collection hose, and custom hose clamps. Use a lot of scrap wood to build the complete structure model. This is easily the most difficult part of the project and requires a good deal of finesse. The vollection needs to be cut to match the curve of the side walls, and any gaps will result in pressure loss and a sloppy joint that requires a lot of hot glue to seal. On the inside saw dust collection system diy project the polycarbonate, mark out the location of the inlet port with a permanent marker.

So this is my baseline. Now I want to show you the readings when I run the Garage Dust Collection System Diy Jacket saw using my regular shop vac setup. The first solution I want to implement is adding a dust cyclone to my shop vac. The first step is to trace and cut out the hole for the cyclone to fit onto the lid.

I cut out the circle using a utility knife, and drilled the six holes for the bolts. After lining up the gasket with the holes, I positioned the cyclone and used the provided washers and bolts to attach the cyclone to the lid.

Next, I drilled a hole through my workbench using a 3 inch hole saw. I threaded the extra hose I purchased through the hole, and hooked it up to my miter saw using a Bosch 35 mm adapter. Underneath the workbench, I connected the hoses to the dust cyclone: connect the shop vac to the top of the cyclone, and then connect the other hose the one that goes to the saw to the side of the cyclone.

Just connect the saw and the vac to the indicated receptacles, and make sure to set the switch to auto. Now the shop vac will automatically turn on when the saw is activated, and will stay on for 6 seconds after the saw stops to clear the hose. Totally worth it. The second solution I want to implement to improve the dust control further, is to build a dust hood behind the miter saw to trap as much dust as possible.

Due to my miter saw's configuration, I needed to cut out 2 slots to make room for the knobs at the back of the fence. I positioned the rail flush up against the back of my fence. I noticed that the knobs reach right to the top of the rail. Since, I want to make a groove where the doors will slide, this is a problem. An easy fix is to add another piece of wood to build it up.

Okay, with those minor adjustments made, I now want to mark out where I need to cut the groove so that the doors will slide right up against the box. I made another rail for the top and cut out the same groove, and attached it, making sure that the groove lined up with the front edge of Ridgid Table Saw Dust Collection System 20 the box so the doors could slide in.

After cutting the doors, I did a few test fits and adjusted until I felt that they slid nice and smoothly. I want to be able to close the doors as much as possible so I made a few cuts outs for the handle and the motor. I just eyeballed it, but you could make a cardboard template first and then use that to cut out your door. After making a few different cuts and tests until the saw moved freely in the 90 degree position, it was time for another air quality test to see if this dust hood makes a difference.

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Your choice here will be recorded for all the Make: Community Websites. Skip to content. Share via. The idea is to create a slot for the lip of the trash can to fit inside.

If you are using a bandsaw to remove the middle, fill the slot in the ring with scrap and trim to fit. Step 2: The Top The top of the separator connects to the vacuum or blower and provides a path for air to leave. In the center, cut a hole to match the outer diameter of the pipe you will use for the outlet.

Step 3: Side Walls By using polycarbonate for the side walls, you can see how well the collector is working without lifting the lid. Form a circle with the polycarbonate and insert it into the base ring. Using a marker or knife, mark the point at which the polycarbonate makes a complete circle.

Trim the polycarbonate to length. There should be no overlap. I used a tool designed for scoring plastics, but you can also cut it with a saw or utility knife. Step 4: Assembling the Body This step involves some tricky drilling, so take your time and work carefully. Insert the bottom of the polycarbonate walls into the base ring.

Drill pilot holes every 4—6 inches as needed from the inside. These holes should NOT be countersunk! Attach the base to the polycarbonate walls with pan-head screws.

Insert the lid into the polycarbonate. Use the masking tape to hold everything in place. Drill and screw the polycarbonate to the lid. Again, do NOT countersink these holes! Step 5: The Inlet and Outlet Port This is easily the most difficult part of the project and requires a good deal of finesse.

Cut the two DWV couplers in half just to one side of the inner seam. If using different pipe, adjust accordingly. Conclusion At this point, your separator is ready to use.

Make: engineering interns Anthony Lam and Jenny Ching built this dust separator based on a design by Ray Mowder, who was inspired by the original cyclone baffles by J. Phil Thien.

March 4, , am PST. Raymond Mowder I'm a California based career software engineer, but my real passions have always been learning new skills, and making new things. We use cookies to optimally design and continuously improve our websites for you, as well as to display news, articles and advertisements in line with your interests. Our websites use cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the Make: ecosystem. Allow Non-Necessary Cookies.

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