Outdoor Lighting. Repeat all this on the bottom, making deoot to cut notches for the handle. Indoor Lighting. I eyeballed this one, and it looks fine, so don't worry too much. Bottom Line. Kitchen Faucets.

Sledge Hammer. Ball Peen Hammer. Dead Blow Hammer. Soft Face Hammer. Rubber Mallet. Drilling Hammer. Brand see all. American Hammer. Grace USA. Handle Material see all. Forged Steel. Handle Size see all. United States. Brass Filter Applied. Blade Material see all. Features see all.

Color see all. Bristle Material see all. Condition see all. Open box. First, measure the mallet's head. Take two pieces of foam and put them on either side of the hammer; 4" side goes parallel to the handle, 3" side goes perpendicular to the handle, 8" side goes parallel to the head.

This is your basic shape. Let me give you this advice before we move on: Foam. You will end up with foam dust and foam pieces all over you and your floor. If you do not use a drop cloth or put down newspaper, you will severely regret it. Using these pieces, carve out a shell on either side for the mallet.

This is easier if you score the foam before you start scooping it out. This, clearly, is not precision work, but no one will see it, and if it stays it plays. For the area around the handle, do not carve all the way down. Carve only enough to go allow the handle to pass through.

Try to make the hole as tight as you can left-to-right as well. Note here in these pictures that only one side is cut close, because I did the first one before I figured out what I was doing. When these are carved out, put the mallet inside and glue the pieces together. You don't need to worry about putting the handle straight up and pressing the sides together.

The mallet makes this all very stable from all sides, so you can lay it on its side to dry. Take two more blocks of foam and put them lengthwise at the ends. You don't have to bother with whittling them down like I did, as that idea got nixed.

You can also just use one block of foam cut lengthwise. Glue them on. At this point, I cut the sides down, because the whole thing was just too long.

I left about an inch of the extra foam on on both sides, making sure to measure from the handle and not the ends. Step two turned out to be mostly optional, but it helped anyway and it illustrates what we'll be doing next, so I'll detail it here.

Paint and gesso will not take on floral foam, so we need something that will hold paint and smooth the floral foam out. Craft foam works perfectly for this application. So cut craft foam to fit and glue it onto the floral foam, remembering to put the glue on the craft foam side.

Press together, let dry. You don't technically have to do this right now, but it made things easier later. At this point, I put on a layer of gesso, thinking this was how the thing was going to look. It looked like a shoebox on a stick, so we moved on to step three. So the problem we face after step one is that our hammer looks like a shoebox. We did NOT come all this way to make a shoebox, my friends. The solution I came to was to add another inch on the top and bottom and carve it off.

You will only have two floral foam blocks left. Take a block and carve out 1" pieces on both sides- DO NOT cut a 1" piece and then cut another one from the side you just cut. Go over to the side where you haven't cut and cut a new one, so that you have two flat sides.

Do this with both blocks. Put the foam blocks on the top, right over the shell blocks. You could glue them down at this point, but because I already had that craft foam, I just pinned them in, making sure to stick the pin way down in.

You'll need to cut another piece of foam to cover the last bit; pin that in and level it off with the other two, planing it until there's a smooth surface. It does not have to be level, just good enough for the craft foam to go over it. Repeat all this on the bottom, making sure to cut notches for the handle. Now we can make this hammer look a little more hammer-shaped. Carve off the edges to give it a hammer-y shape.

I eyeballed this one, and it looks fine, so don't worry too much. That done, do the same thing we did before: cover up the floral foam with craft foam. The slanted edges won't want to stay, but you can pin them down- sticking the pin in only a little, not up to the head- and then pull the pins out later.

Don't worry about the edges of all these foam pieces meeting up, because they're just not going to unless you're some kind of foam-whisperer.

We'll take care of that in the next step. This is where the fabric comes in. Here, we'll make a nice little fabric wrapping for the box, which will even out all those corners. The basic idea is to take the fabric and wrap the box up like a present. Make sure to keep your fabric under even tension. This is why you should have flat-headed pins. Learn from my fail. At some point I just decided that if they'd have had rivets in Asgard, they'd have used them, so I just pinned stuff down.

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