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02.05.2021Home Articles Box-Joint Basics. This article is from Issue 25 of Woodcraft Magazine. In the history of woodworking joinery, box joints sometimes called finger joints are a fairly recent arrival. They viewed box joints as harder to cut than dovetails. Plus, the joints required glue. True to its name, the box joint found its first practical use later in mass-produced boxes and crates for storage and shipping purposes.
Because the fingers multiply the gluing surface area, box joints are super strong, making them the perfect choice for utility boxes and tool chests. Their decorative appearance is a bonus, lending a unique design element to jewelry boxes and projects like the steak knife box on page The best thing is that with the right jig, you can fashion box joints quickly and easily with either the table saw or router.
You can buy a ready-made jig, but you may want to start off with a shop-made version that can be fastened to your miter gauge. This simple but still perfectly functional jig can be made and attached to your miter gauge in less than an hour. To build it router box joint account need a flat piece of stable hardwood for the fence, a short piece of T-track, and a handful of common hardware.
As shown in Figure 1. Screw the T-track in the groove and fasten the fence to your router box joint account gauge with bolts in the T-track and wing nuts. Next, install the blades you will be using and set your blade height to match the thickness of your box stock.
Adjust the miter-gauge fence so the right side is about 6" beyond the blade and make your first cut through the fence. This notch will be used for the registration pin. Next, mill a strip of hardwood about 5" long to the height and width of the slot. Precision is important; if you have one, use a dial caliper to sneak up on the exact dimension, as shown below. Make a practice box joint using your jig.
Use a caliper to compare the size of the pin and spacer strip to the first notch cut. It might help to remove the miter-gauge fence to test the fit. Set the pin spacing for the side by placing the spacer between the registration pin and the blade. Tighten the wing nuts to secure the fence to the miter gauge. Butt your workpiece against the registration pin and make the first cut. Use clamps to support larger boards. Place the notch you just cut over the registration pin and make your second cut.
Repeat the process until you reach the opposite edge of the board and final pin. Butt your workpiece against the registration pin and make your second cut. Router box joint account your joint. Box joints rarely come out perfect at first cut.
After cutting router box joint account practice boards, slide the pieces together and inspect the joint. Ideally, your joints should be perfectly flush, but this is not always practical. A slight amount of finger protrusion is acceptable and easily leveled with a sharp hand plane or a block of wood wrapped with sandpaper.
Conversely, if your fingers are too short, raise the blade. A loose joint not only looks bad, but also may not hold together no matter what glue you use. On the other hand, if a joint requires force router box joint account get it together, the glue will swell the fibers and make the joint impossible to assemble. Move the registration pin to the right for a tighter joint or to the left for a looser joint.
Note that wider workpieces require more careful setup because tiny errors multiply by each pin. If you plan on rows of box joints, you may want to consider a dedicated box-joint cutter. Neither setup requires shims. As an added plus, the tooth geometry creates perfectly square and smooth flat-bottomed joints. Your notches should have clean exit router box joint account like the first workpiece shown in the photo on the left. While dull blades can cause blowout, more often a worn fence is the culprit.
Two common ways let you make box joints with a router. One is on a router table with a straight bit and a miter gauge fixture that resembles the table saw jig; the other faster and easier way relies on a router dovetail jig with a box-joint template. Box-joint templates come packaged with some jigs. If not, you can buy them as a reasonably-priced upgrade.
The size of the jig will also limit the width of the boards you can use. Note: Unlike table saw and router table jigs, the tightness of a template-routed box cannot usually be adjusted.
If you use a good quality jig, bit, and guide bushing, this is usually not router box joint account issue. Each jig is a little different, but here we worked with one of the most popular models to offer a step-by-step overview. First, install the appropriate guide bushing and bit in your router. Now insert your workpiece into the vertical position and align the guideline on the template with the rear edge of your workpiece.
Clamp your workpiece and backerboard securely and rout the fingers, moving from left to right, as shown below left. Rotate the workpiece and cut the other fingers on the other end. The opposite side is made in the same fashion.
To make the adjacent sides, move over to the right side of the jig and set the right stop. Put a backerboard in the upper clamp. Insert your workpiece in the vertical position against the right stop. Secure the clamps and rout from left to right. When finished, you should have perfect complementary joint parts, as shown below right. Router box joint account must be logged in router box joint account write a comment. Log In. Find a Store. My Account.
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Woodcraft Magazine. Woodworking Adventures. Download PDF. Create Simple, Strong, and Handsome Corners In the history of woodworking joinery, box joints sometimes called finger joints are a fairly recent arrival. Build a barebones box-joint jig This simple but still perfectly functional jig can be made and attached to your miter gauge in less than an hour. As shown in Figure 1, mill a groove for the T-track so it centers over the screw holes in your miter gauge.
To make your first cut router box joint account the mating end, place your spacer between the registration pin and the workpiece as shown. Remove the spacer without moving the workpiece and make your first cut to notch the corner. Fine Points for Finer Joints Box joints rarely come out perfect at first cut. Protruding fingers Ideally, your joints should be perfectly flush, but this is not always practical.
Ill-fitting router box joint account A loose joint not only looks bad, but also may not hold together no matter what glue router box joint account use. Blown out Fingers Your notches should have clean exit cuts like the first workpiece shown in the photo on the left. Box joints with a router Two common ways let you make box joints with a router.
Rout into the ends slowly and smoothly to avoid blowout. Router box joint account D-handled router is easier to control when doing template work. Some jigs rout mating sides on opposite ends of the template; others use spacers.
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