The pigment that is added to a stain usually provides the UV protection. Paige Murphy, you are right. Otherwise, the wood would turn gray much sooner.  Im sorry,I have not used those liquids before to make a wood stain. The only experience I have had in making my own stains were using inexpensive acrylic paints mixed with water to make a translucent stain for over wood. After thinning the paints with quite a bit of water,it brushed onto wood nicely,showing the wood grain through the stain. 20 views ·. View 1 Upvoter. Natural pigments, food compounds, are responsible for the colour of the products. These additives can impart, to deepen or renew the colour of the product, if it has been lost while processing. They also improve the taste of the product and facilitate its identification. It is hard to imagine today's food industry without the use of pigments. Presently, more and more conscious consumers are demanding products to be coloured with natural pigments or any pigment added to the final product. Artificial pigments are considered to be harmful and undesirable so food manufacturers focus on the us. Ceramic pigments, often referred to as ceramic stains, have vastly opened up the color possibilities for potters. And as we all know, adding color to your ceramic art can be a tricky proposition. Unlike working with paints, the raw glaze you put on your prize pot or sculpture often looks completely different from the fired result.  A good starting point is either using some of the published recipes or using frits. Because pigments are expensive to manufacture, their cost is higher than that of ceramic oxides, but you’ll find most suppliers will sell ceramic pigments in quantities as small as ¼ pound.  When used as underglazes, surfaces coming into contact with food must be covered by a food-safe transparent glaze, and glazes containing pigments should be tested for food use. Do Pigment stain for wood recipe need to finish in any way before whitewashing it? I like to use a quart of Zinnser Bullseye but if your piece is laminate or veneer, go with something a little more hardcore like Zinsser Cover Stain. High-quality paints are formulated to grab tenaciously to masonry surfaces. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Also, the gel stain comes in lots of color options so you can be sure that the color you pick will be the true color of the piece when you are done.

Some websites I see say that whitewash is diluted paint. Is that true? Is a primer necessary if I decide to paint? Does anyone even whitewash before or is that just something that Tom Sawyer did in the classic book Huckleberry Finn? Terri W. They're hijacking a time-tested coating process that's far superior to paint.

The advice on the other websites is wrong if they say to use paint. High-quality paints are formulated to grab tenaciously to Pigment Stain For Wood Youtube masonry surfaces. But be aware that once you apply paint or any other film to brick, you begin a vicious cycle of periodic maintenance and cost.

This is a typical can of paint. Read the label and see how little water you can add to it. Add more and you dilute the glue too much.

Copyright Tim Carter. I'm going to do what painters did hundreds of years ago. I'm going to put on traditional time-tested whitewash! The biggest problem I have with paint is that when it dries, it creates a film on whatever it's covering. This film can, and will, peel off eventually. It also chips and flakes. High-quality house paint that does stand up longer than cheap paint can be very expensive. Even a small house might take hundreds and hundreds of dollars of paint.

Your desire to make your home look better and do it with little future maintenance is possible if you consider a coating that has almost been forgotten. Whitewash Recipes and Pigments. Real whitewash made with lime and salt works because it is nothing more than a thin coating of hard rock. I had the joy of applying whitewash to a large brick room addition I built years ago for a client.

This inexpensive but durable coating looks as good today as the day it was applied. A little-known fact about whitewash is that it can actually be tinted a light color if you don't like the brilliant traditional white color.

You can tint the whitewash any color you desire. I had to tint the slurry I applied different shades of gray to match the dirty whitewash on the existing home. We did such a good job that no one knew the giant room addition was new!

Whitewash, since it doesn't produce a thick film like paint, can last 20 or 30 years with no maintenance. There are many different recipes for a whitewash but the basic ingredients are the same. The most basic formula is simply a combination of hydrated masonry lime and regular table salt. The whitewash I used was made by mixing:. This is great hydrated lime. It's label for use on farms, but believe me, it's GREAT to use for brick, stone mortars, and whitewash.

Here's a giant bag of salt. You may need two or three depending on how much whitewash you mix up. You can tint whitewash any color using dry pigments. These are the same pigments used in paint. If you don't tint the whitewash, when it dries it's a brilliant white. It's as white as the freshest snow you've seen or as white as puffy gorgeous clouds on a summer day.

The best tints to use are the pigments used to tint brick mortar. These pigments are a fine powder that blend easily with the hydrated lime. Then go from there as far as the molding at the top. You can also practice on an old piece of trim before starting so you can get confidant with the technique.

This has been very useful! I want to apply this as I paint my old paneling in the den. I want to subscribe to your blog! Do you think a light sanding over that white will be enough to go ahead with this method? There are a couple changes you might make when redoing laminate.

Let me know if you have any questions Desiree! Great tutorial, looking forward to painting a tired piece of furniture I inherited from my parents. Thank you. Thank you Christine! I used your amazing technique to refinish the back stairs and landings at my Victorian home in Appleton Wisconsin.

Previous owners painted the stairs and landings a Titanic grey and were horrible. That is absolutely stunning! You did a great job of adapting the technique to your own needs. Can I share this on social media and in the blog post? Awesome tutorial and idea! Is there a specific reason for using latex based paint?

Do you think it would still turn out the same? Really great results. Good job! I have built my kitchen cabinets, and decided I am enthralled with the creamy grain of white oak. I have veneered all my drawer fronts and doors with it. I had originally painted some of the face frames a really gorgeous cream, but now? Blah with the oak. Some reclaimed wood for the face frames is darker stain and I love it with the white oak.

I was looking for a wood grain tool, and all the hard stuff. I wanted to offer two thoughts: Citristrip will suck the stain out of wood, turning it into a BBQ sauce-like goo. A second application will bring it back to raw wood. Neutralize with water — no mineral spirits, because that will liquify any traces of stain back into the wood in horrible, bright colors. Like magenta. Ask me how I know.

Anyway… I work in my pajamas in front of the TV. No gloves, normal ventilation. The 21st century strippers are not flesh-eating chemicals. You work too hard to be messing with evil chemicals.

Another, less expensive invisible flat top coat is paint base. You know, the can of paint before they add pigment? It has all the UV and water proof properties. If you want to glue the chips down on chippy furniture, this is your answer.

Are the SW paint samples that you recommend at Lowes a good quality paint that can be used for paint only projects? Have you used them on anything that is not top coated with poly? The samples from an actual Sherwin Williams store are just for color sampling purposes only, not a paint that will hold up.

I want to paint my bathroom laminate countertop to look like wood. Do you think this process would work on laminate? Pam, Thank you so much for your sweet comment! I might be hesitant to use it on a surface that will get wet so often. If you go that route, use an epoxy clear coat that is meant for countertops. Another option that I have had a good experience with is Rustoleum Countertop Restorations.

We did this process on the kitchen in our old house. I am currently using your technique on my kitchen table. It came out pretty good for my first time! How do you recommend fixing it or is it too late?

Would you recommend sanding? I am worried it will ruin what I already have done. It was cabinets and was rather difficult on the inset part of the cabinet doors but I figured out if I cut a brush down so it just had a thin line of bristles then it looked less like brush strokes at the edges. Wow, great tip! Well done Elizabeth. Can you send me a pic to [email protected]?

I bet they look amazing! The table top is also much lighter than the table base and the settee so want to darken it up to coordinate better. I think your technique would be perfect for creating the same uniform, fine grain wood finish BUT the table top is assembled in a radiating pattern, like 8 pieces of pizza!

They are actually separate wood pieces with a seam where they meet. Does this make sense and would you recommend this technique or have another suggestion?

So, say there are 4 different triangles in the top. Now, tape two of the non-adjacent triangles and tape them so the tape is just outside of the seam.

Do the rest of the process on those two triangles. Let that dry and take off the tape carefully. I highly recommend yellow frog tape. Now, tape the last two triangles with the tape just outside the seam. Do the rest of the process on the last two triangles.

Let it dry and take off the tape and then put a clear coat on top all in one direction with a foam brush. The farmhouse table that JUST went on the blog has some fake seams and I did the same thing with the tape.

I will have the finish on the blog in a couple weeks but this is what I did with the tape. Let me know if you have any questions at all!

Do you have any suggestions on how to get a dark espresso finish? But I need darker than that dark walnut you have in your post. Hey Lindsay, You could still go with the dark walnut and go a little heavier with the glaze. It is really more of an espresso finish. Let me know if you have any other questions and bets of luck! Are there any other good brands that would work for this project? Look for a product called Flood by Floetrol. You should be able to get very similar results.

Thanks Rachel! I love this technique, but I have Minwax Polycrylic Satin Coat and want to use it- how long do I have to wait until the 2nd layer and put on the clear coat? Usually you can put on the second layer a couple hours later. This worked perfectly and the colors are spot on.

I went with the early American. Honestly I liked it was only two layers, but also I liked that color. I tinted my primer so it was super easy. The only thing I did differently was I brushed on the glaze let it sit a bit then wiped it with a folded blue shop towel. Fold it into quarters so you have a square then fold it once more and use that edge to wipe. Almost like a pad. I only did that because I am used to using general finishes glaze and I always wait then wipe it off.

Thanks so much for this idea! And the colors! Hey Donny, So glad this worked out well for you! Be sure to send me a pic. Thank you for your comment and tips! Hi Judith, I would wait about 2 hours before applying the topcoat. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you for info.. I painted our three end tables in our formal living room the Rustic Mahogany finish. They turned out beautifully… until I put the topcoat on. They are a couple inches in length and lighter in color.

I have not yet put the topcoat on the other two tables. Thank you again and in advance for your assistance. They said they will only tint paints, not primers. So I ended up having to get both. Ours always has. Thanks for your patience! Hi Karin, Do we need to prime bare wood first? My husband just built using a farmhouse bed and I want to paint it with the driftwood finish. Just start with the base coat!

Thanks Lorraine and let me know if you have more questions! Will this technique and materials hold up for outdoor use?

If not, could you recommend anything I could do or use that would make it better for outdoor use? Just want it to look a little better. I love the way your table turned out just by using the brush, but I would like to try out a wood grain rocker. Do you have any recommendations on which of your steps it would be best to use the tool to create the wood grain?

Thank you for your tips! Thanks Kelsey! Do you have to use the mixing glaze or can it be done without it. You have to use the mixing glaze to keep it from drying up on you. You can also get it online! Hey Sara, I like to use this process for a greyer stain. We went with the dark walnut color because we definitely want a dark expresso finish. We have put on the primer tinted base coat, harvest brown mix and the black bean mix.

I have a laminated partial board vanity that is currently a choloate brown and I would love for it to look like teak to get a mcm look. Do you think this technique will work? Sherman Williams does not have a color named Flaxseed. Is this another brand of paint for the Flaxseed that you specified for the Rustic Mahogany? I should have split up the word to be Flax Seed.

I hope this helps! Hi Karin. I used your driftwood technique on my coffee table and end tables. The coffee table turned out a lot darker than the end tables.

Is there a way to lighten the coffee table? The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard.

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Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. The Components Nearly all modern varnish contains a few basic components: oil, resin, and a solvent. Oil Types The most common oil used to make varnish is linseed oil. Resin Types Generally speaking, phenolic resins are best-suited for outdoor use.

Conclusion Generally-speaking, my preferred outdoor varnish would be a long-oil varnish made with tung oil and at least some phenolic resins and UV inhibitors.

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