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We provide affordable writing services for students around the world. Contact us for cheap writing assistance. Tuned the drive and no way can I stop the spindle at minimum speed. Now I can tap with leaving it in high gear and the floating head barely moves.

How is the motor attached? If you can, change pulley ratios that you have more rpm in low gear or less rpm in high gear. Reminds me of my old F that liked to hunt for a gear between fourth and fifth when driving at the speed limit. I will say that even a drive without any of the fancy modes or tuning should give near full torque at any speed, but you will have full slip at full torque regardless of speed, so you may need to increase the volts per hertz at low speeds to account for this, but be careful.

Consider that a rpm motor has rpm of slip at full load. Now set it to rpm and you will only get rpm at full load. The motor may appear to be stalling out but is totally within its current limits, assuming it has an external fan for cooling. Not to say that the features of the VFD shouldn't be used fully, but you can certainly work without it. If you are concerned about torque, neither of those will be your friend.

DC motors are awesome but require good drives to work to their full capacity, which aren't as cheaply available as VFDs. To regulate speed on a DC motor you just need IR compensation in the drive, whereas AC motors need some combination of voltage and frequency adjustment Lathe Tools New Zealand 2019 to keep them at a certain speed.

Alternatively, you may be able to switch between a 2 pole or 4 pole motor or vice versa if you have no control of the drive ratio. One factor to consider with running motors at full torque down to low speeds is that the cooling fan RPMs drop with the speed of the motor. Heating could become an issue. In industrial applications where motors are expected to run at high torque across their full range of speeds, independent auxiliary blowers are installed.

Originally Posted by GeorgiaDoc. I have a lathe that I bought used several years ago. RdR24 liked this post. Originally Posted by thermite. Originally Posted by Just a Sparky. Rocking the old school speed control. I dig that. You don't see too many DC drives anymore.

Stupid simple, dead reliable and loads of torque all the way down 'till they're on their knees just about to stall. Just a Sparky liked this post. So, a little research on my machine late last night, still cannot get in back to see the motor plate So current plans, change the motor to shaft ratio I appreciate all the comments, showed me where to research and what things to look for.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Loss of torque at low speed is an issue inherent to induction motors on VFDs Jim McIntyre liked this post. At hz the torque will still be more than what you have currently. The motor is rated in hz reduction and up to rpm.

Variable Speed Motor in Lathe So, I have done some investigation and have a few pictures to share of what I am working with. All the power snd motor wires go into the VFD, and it appears that all of the switches all also go into the VFD by one wire. So it looks to me that these are just controllers off the VFD. As far as the motor itself, it appears to be the original 2hp motor.

I am including pictures of the original setup I got from manual and the current setup. I have no idea how this speed control mechanism worked. There is no warning. That is most likely a cheap chinese inverter The motor is a reasonable size, and proper speed for modest general-purpose work The belt reduction you have there, is substantial. Unless that VFD was programmed for, and capable of substantial overspeed like The original variable-speed drive consisted of two V-belt sheaves that have articulating sides.

One was spring-loaded closed, to run the belt way out in diameter, while the other had a mechanical or hydraulic actuator that shoved it's articulating side towards the opposite face.

When the faces there were wide, the belt ran very low small diameter while the other pulley's spring action would squish them close, running the belt at large diameter. Cranking the manual pulley in, made it effectively larger, and the spring-faced pulley would open up, resulting in smaller diameter.

Clever idea, used in snowmobile and other types of constant-velocity transmissions Yes, those controls are just direct extension of the VFD's speed and direction controls. Your VFD is not set up right, or it's not working properly.

Both are equally necessary for proper performance. I would not be surprised if the VFD is bad So, current plan is to replace the VFD and controls first. Then tackle the pulley and speed issue after I get the electronics proper then decide on ratios that get me from current max speed in low gear to the machine rated max speed in low gear.

Then high gear should be correct too. Does that sound like a workable plan? You had what amounted to a Reeve's drive so the belt ratio was variable between the two adjustable pulleys.

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