This wood finish can hold up to pets, heavy traffic, and more. Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain. I really finiehes by what I said, they are so worth it. General Finishes, it is! They key is try and get sample sizes of products and do experiments on boards for your project.

Today, many outperform their oil-based competition. They have easy to apply Wipe-on Oil based top coats that come in gel or liquid form. They also have a few pre-stain conditioners and lots of other urethanes, urethane combos, and other conditioners for your projects.

Furniture always gets scratched up. If you have a piece that just needs a little touch up this is your line to check out. If something is professional grade but available to us DIYers it seems like a no brainer to go with that. Your time- say you spend 8 hours building a console table, you spend another hour sanding it, and will spend 2 hours staining and General Finishes Gel Stain Instructions Network finishing it minus dry times to do a proper job. Seriously friend, you could have had one for your mother in law for Christmas made already in the time it took you to fix your cheap decision.

Even if you are brand new at this, you General Finishes Gel Stain Application Model are gaining skills that will last a lifetime. I am so grateful for this post.

I have been agonizing over which paints and top coats to use for furniture refinishing. I was leaning toward General Finishes, but my wallet was leaning toward cheaper brands. This post really helped me to make my decision. General Finishes, it is! Thank you. Love that color! And, because they don't run or splatter, they're especially handy for applying to vertical surfaces.

Nevertheless, gel stains do have certain drawbacks. We avoid them on projects with lots of tight corners and crevices because the stain collects in these tight spots and is hard to remove. Thin-bodied stains don't have this problem because they wick into tight spots and the areas adjoining them. And, because gel stains don't penetrate as well as thin-bodied stains, they don't bring out the "depth" of the wood grain as well as thin-bodied stains.

That's why we prefer thin-bodied stains for porous woods such as oak, ash, mahogany, and walnut. Nonporous woods. Species such as pine, maple, cherry, and birch have relatively nonporous surfaces that don't absorb stains well. These woods have areas where edge or end grain pops to the surface.

So, when you apply thin-bodied stains to General Finishes Gel Stain Colors Grey And them, you can get splotchy areas of light and dark staining because of uneven absorption. As shown in the photo below gel stains help you achieve uniform coloration on these woods. Although you can buy "conditioners" specially made for sealing hard-to-stain woods prior to staining with thin-bodied stains, that combination did not give us as good a result as gel stains did.

In the photo above, we treated the left side of this birch board with conditioner and a thin-bodied stain. The right side, where we applied a gel stain, shows much more even coloration. Woods of different species or grain appearance. Some-times you can't avoid combining woods of slightly different coloration or mismatching grain patterns in the same project surface. For example, various red oak boards may vary from pale white to pink in tone, and they may have flatsawn or quartersawn grain patterns.

If economics dictate that you must use such boards together, you can help give the surface a uniform appearance by using gel stains. Wood graining on man-made surfaces. Today, you can buy fiberglass and hardboard doors with a wood-grain embossed surface, and steel doors with nonembossed surfaces. Gel stains help you give both types of surfaces a grain-like appearance. With embossed surfaces you simply apply a gel stain.

Because it doesn't spread out, the stain stays on the flat surfaces and collects in heavier amounts in the embossed crevices of the grain. This same nonspreading quality makes gel stains ideal for applying artificial wood grain to flat surfaces, such as steel doors, with a wood-graining tool. I only have 50 BF of that left and once it's gone i'm not going to buy more. Yeah I understand. I'm just amazed how much coverage you actually get out of even those tiny cans of minwax stain.

I suppose if I was making dressers or bigger pieces, they would use it more quickly, but still, stains go a pretty long way. Also, I imagine stains in general are normally used to achieve colors wood appearance that a person couldn't otherwise acquire or afford. I'm still working with the real thing, but have noticed my local walnut prices are climbing a lot, so if someone wanted a nice walnut look, but couldn't afford it, I don't begrudge them staining something cheaper.

The other use that people don't talk about much here is using stain as a way to hold color. It was part of a four step recipe. I don't normally use stain but in this case I was looking for something specific in the final color. I was real happy with how the stain went on. Dyes are either a fine pigment, fully-dissolved like Transtint , or a chemical concoction that reacts with the wood to change its color like iron acetate or potassium dichromate.

On porous woods like red oak, pigment stains really build up in the pores, making them contrast with the surrounding wood, while dyes seems to color more evenly. All I'm going to add is that I've done this for a long time and my best finishes were definitely post Minwax.

I use a lot of pro waterbourne finishes these days. I use a mix of solvent and water based stains and dyes. General makes some of the best stuff available retail. It takes some practice to learn how to use it. General Finishes Cinnamon dye.

General Finishes Black Cherry stain. General Finishes High Performance topcoat. They are water-based. The best way to achieve this color is to spray the dye. Seal that down with General Finishes high performance.

Glaze with black cherry stain. Spray another coat of high performance and glaze with another coat of black cherry. If you're going to hand apply, the problem will be getting the sealer down high performance over the dye. Hand applying the high performance over the dye can redissolve and remove color making things messy. This is minwax dark expresso gel stain over cherry. I use it to match the crib in the room. I applied it to the raw wood no seal coat.

I tried several sample boards before deciding on the end result. Boy, you guys are way above my paygrade when talking about stains and finishes. This is exactly why I like this site. I am going to learn so much. I have already read about ARS which I didn't know about and just ordered.

This is the best site!!!! I have been reading on here for months an the help an info here is so much better than any of the other sites I've been on.

This can be beneficial on woods that tend to blotch, as it gives a more uniform and even color. You are also able to darken the finish by adding additional coats until you get the color you need. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

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