We highly recommend practicing the technique before you attempt to stain the entire door. Apply Stain Stir the stain thoro- ughly to ensure color consistency. It looked beautiful with just stain. Please advise as to reasons for fiberglaas coating the inside. Remove Excess Stain With the cloth provided, remove excess stain from the coated area. Its unique non-drip formula makes application easy for vertical surfaces. Debra Collins.

For additional color depth, a second coat of stain can be applied after 8 hours. Dry time may also be extended due to excess stain application or lack of stain penetration. Cleanup Using a cleaning solvent, such as paint thinner or mineral spirits, is recommended for cleanup. The use of paint thinners or mineral spirits may violate VOC compliancy in your area. Check with your local government agencies to ensure proper compliancy. However, this stain can be top coated with most clears.

If a lacquer Gel Stain Application On Fiberglass Door Fa topcoat is desired, test for compatibility before using. When applying water-based finishes, allow a minimum of 24 hours before top coating. Old Masters uses only the finest ingredients to create the highest quality stains available today. Old Masters stains can be used to:. Stain Scrap test piece Stir stick Drop cloth Bristle brush, synthetic brush, foam brush applicator, cheese cloth, or rags Lint-free cloth Mineral spirits or paint thinner Rubber gloves. Gel Stain.

Available colors:. Aged Oak. American Walnut. Carbon Black. Crimson Fire. Dark Mahogany. Dark Walnut. Early American. Golden Oak. Natural Walnut. Pickling White. Red Mahogany. Rich Mahogany. Spanish Oak. Special Walnut. Vintage Burgundy.

Weathered Wood. DANGER: Rags, steel wool, sanding residue, and other wastes used or soaked with this product may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. No ignition source is required for these wastes to start on fire by themselves.

Immediately place rags, steel wool, sanding residue, and other wastes used or soaked with this product in a sealed, water-filled metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations. Learn More. Why Stain? Old Masters stains can be used to: Add rich color and depth to a variety of surfaces, including wood, fiberglass, metal, and composition surfaces Change existing colors on previously finished surfaces Match color tone on different kinds of woods and non-porous surfaces, such as fiberglass.

Suggested Supplies. Graining Base. Continue brushing until one section is blended into an adjoining section. Removing excessive stain with the brush, wiping the bristles on a rag to remove stain, can control the color intensity or a second coat can be applied after the first has fully dried, typically 24 hours. The rag technique is very similar and is a good option. With this technique a rag is dipped into the stain and rubbed onto the surface. Rub in the direction of the grain.

The brush is used to remove excess stain and blend one section into another. Excess stain on the brush is removed with a clean dry rag or paper towels. Allowing the stain to dry for several minutes before removing the excess will darken the color.

Experiment with both methods and consult with the door manufacturer to determine the best method for you. If primed, staining and finishing is an option but painting looks better.

Staining sidelights can be done after the door and the sequence is the same. A clear topcoat must be applied after staining a fiberglass door. Two application methods can be used, brushing or spraying. Both methods will produce great results, with the use of an HVLP sprayer producing the best results possible. Multiple thin coats are better than two thick coats.

Plan on coats of clear finish depending on application method. Provide a dust free environment. Do not sand between coats when finishing fiberglass doors. Dust can be removed with a tack cloth before application and between coats. Before beginning stir the topcoat well. Never shake the can, as this will cause fine bubbles to appear in the finish. Brush Application Apply a thin first coat so it just wets the surface.

Quickly work the brush into the grained texture. Apply the finish in the same order as when staining. Observe the door for any runs or drips and quickly correct with the brush.

Do not over brush. Over brushing could loosen and lift the stain. If this occurs, wait until the finish is dry then gently wipe the area with a tack cloth to remove any balls of stain and finish. Carefully repair any damaged stain with a small brush then recoat the area before proceeding with the next coat.

Allow the first coat to thoroughly dry then apply another coat in the same order. Three coats are recommended for the best protection. After filling and priming the sprayer test the sprayer pattern, pressure and volume on a piece of cardboard or plywood. Apply the topcoat in a sweeping motion, first in one direction and then in the opposite direction. Avoid spraying a heavy coat as drips or runs can occur, correct drips with a brush before the coat is dry.

Allow the first coat to dry before proceeding with the following coats. The second application needs to be sprayed the same as the first. Follow with one, or more, coats sprayed in one direction only. We have a wood grain fiberglass door that has been painted white. Can this door be stained with a gel stain so that it will look like a wood door?

And if so, how would I do this? This will be the background color for the gel stain. Now stain and finish as usual. Be careful to choose a fiberglass safe paint stripper. I want to use gel stain on my fiberglass wood grain door the molding is a primed from Factory can I use the gel on the primed Factory molding and what kind of oil should I use? Yes a gel stain can go over the primed molding. Any good gel stain will work, Old Masters is a good brand.

Do we have to use a clear coat? Or can we just use the stain? A clear coat must be used over the stain. Gel or wood stain alone has very little protective power and must be protected from the elements with a suitable clear coat.

Yes, they are the same thing. Varnish, polyurethane, etc are all suitable clear coats that can be used on top of a stain. After staining and applying top coat, my husband noticed that the stain was darker on one side than the other. Can I put another coat of stain on top of top coat to darken the door? Yes, a second is possible. Make sure to wait for the first coat to dry completely, typically several hours or overnight.

If you apply the second coat to soon it could reactivate the first coat smearing it around. I need to strip the stain and top coat to restrain my 3 year old fiberglass door. I used gel stain and a polyurethane topcoat over factory base. What is the best product and process to use to strip topcoat and stain?

Klean-Strip Fiberglass Paint Stripper is one of the best and is fiberglass safe. Finish up with a washing with plain water. You might need to use Lacquer Thinner after the washing to remove some stubborn spots. Do you recommend one or two coats of stain? I just worry that with 2 coats it may just look painted. Is one coat durable enough with the urethane coat? Thanks Tiffany. More than one coat of stain is just about the look.

You can use as many coats as you feel is needed to get the look your after. I would do two coats of urethane for a more durable finish. What type of urethane would you recommend over a fiberglass door with gel stain finish? The Helmsman spar will work well. I would stick with an oil base product for its ease of application but waterborne urethanes also will work, make sure what is used is recommended for exterior use.

Is it possible to get a light oak finish over the tan base of a fiberglass door, or will I have to prime it in a buff tone? Seems that mid tone and darker gel stains are all that I am seeing applied successfully. Also, does the interior side require a top coat? The light oak color is very difficult to achieve over typical dark tan fiberglass.

The buff color will be needed. Try to choose an eggshell sheened oil base paint if available, easier to stain over. Plus Old Masters makes the best gel stains, in my opinion. The lower section of our fiberglass door was weathered. I use a wiping stain instead of a gel stain. Color is fine but not sure what else to do or if I have to remove??? All you need t do now is apply a clear coat to protect the new stain color from the elements.

Any exterior rated finish will work; varnish, polyurethane or water based acrylic. I have tried re-applying, using a touch up stain marker, with no success. Is there a touch up product for scratches on a fiberglass door? It is possible the scratches are into and damaged the embossing wood grain. It is impossible to fix this type of damage. Try an artist brush and the gel stain, carefully apply to the scratch only and reapply when dry if needed.

I have a thermatru wood grain front door that is under a porch roof, never receives sun or rain and the original mahogany colored gel stain was never top coated. To refinished this door I cleaned the inside and outside door with lemon pine sol as I read that this product did not require a rinse and did not leave a residue.

Then my painter simply restained the door with dark mahogany Zar oil based interior wood stain. One coat. The door is beautiful. My question is must I top coat? I would prefer not to because I may need to reapply another coat of stain and did not want to get involved with taking off the top coat.

How long would this finish last without a top coat? You should get a couple good years out of the new stain before recoating. Just put the top coat on yesterday. It looked beautiful with just stain. Can this be fixed? Need a little info; What top coat was used, how was it applied and what was the weather conditions? Plus, is the door finish cloudy? This will help figure out what happened and how best to fix. It was the Therma Tru top coat that came with the Therma Tru stain.

It was brushed on. The weather was mid eighties, clear. The door finish is not cloudy. It was beautiful. The top coat turned cloudy within an hour after applying it. If I remember correctly this finish is a water based exterior acrylic urethane. Brushing is very difficult Gel Stain Application On Fiberglass Door Free with this finish, dries too quickly. Applying it too thick could cause this problem. This is a very helpful thread. I have a Jeld-Wen patio door fir texture that I need to stain. I need to test some colors on fiberglass to be sure I have a good match but there was no sample included with the door.

I wrote to Jeld-wen but have not been able to get a response. Is there a way to get a sample of fiberglass from some other source to test my stains? Can I test them on a different surface, like a board painted to match the base color of the door? Also, what do you recommend for a durable, long lasting outdoor top coat? Thank you. Using a painted board is your best bet. It is probably the toughest exterior clear coat you can get.

I had the glass replaced in my fiberglass door and need to know how to stain plastic glasss trim to match stained door. This is on the interior side as we had exterior painted. First you need to prime the plastic trim then paint it a medium tan color, this will match the original color of the door. Could also use a tinted primer, ask you local paint store if they can tint it to a tan color. Now you need some gel stain or heavy bodied wiping stain that matches or comes close to the door stain color.

Application is by brush, might take more than one coat. Protect the rest of the door with blue painters tape and masking paper or news paper. After the stain is applied and dry apply a coat or 2 of sealer, polyurethane or varnish.

Might be a good time to re-coat the entire door. I just had a ThermaTru fiberglass entry door installed. I painted the outside to avoid the weathering of stain. However, I wanted the wood look inside, so I stained it and the sidelights with Varathane gel stain, Ipswich Pine color, two coats. It looks beautiful now, before I have topcoated. I see someone commented that the inside needs to have a topcoat.

Please advise as to reasons for top coating the inside. A clear coat will protect the stain from fading and damage. Applying a clear coat, varnish or poly, can be a challenge but careful and apply only thin coats problems can be minimized.

I would choose an oil base finish, fast drying polyurethane is good. Water based finished can present problems as they dry too fast and are harder to apply by hand. I have just had a therma-try door installed. I stained both sides of the door yesterday afternoon and it came out nicely, other than having to pluck hairs off from the brush supplied with the Therma-try recommended Same Day Stain Kit. Do I need to remove more, even though the door looks good, or will it eventually dry.

If I let it go too long without putting on the top coat will there be a problem? Thank You! Let it dry.

With high humidity and somewhat low temps it could take a few days. Keep check it and when dry apply a clear coat to protect the good looking stain. When I stained my Therma Tru door, even though the stain can said 24 hours, it really took more like four days for it to dry to not tacky at all! But it did eventually dry completely. Do I need to sand between sealer coats? I tried and it started taking off the stain? At most a light careful sanding with or ultra fine sanding block.

If you are taking off the clear coat, and getting down to the stain, then stop and apply more clear coat. All your looking or feeling for is having no dust on the door. I have a fiberglass front door that was stained and covered with an unknown type of top coat.

The sun has impacted the door and I want to refinish it. Should I sand the door to get the existing top coat off? Thank you for your assistance. Exact procedures depends on the door. Sanding is great for flat areas and solid wood doors. Intricate details are hard to sand. These areas will require using a paint stripper.

The same paint stripper could be used on the entire door then sanded later to finish up with a smooth surface ready for stain. No need to use a special exterior stain. Ant regular wood stain will do since you will be protecting it with a clear coat. I do recommend McCloskey Man-o-War spar varnish, good results over many years of use. It will do well applied over any proper wood stain.

Hello — fiberglass front door had some damage from dog scratches. Planning on stripping and re-staining, but wondered if there was any solution to make sanded areas where scratches were better? If this is a smooth fiberglass door then the Bondo will work. But, this sounds like a door with a wood grain texture.

Good Luck! Everyone on here is talking about staining but I was wondering what kind of paint is best to use on a fiberglass door. It is a jeld-wen door. The type of fiberglass, epoxy or poly, is irrelevant as the door will need priming anyway. A good universal acrylic primer will work well. Any type of paint can be applied to the door, the same type as your house is fine.

Better the quality the better looking and longer lasting is the paint job. My fiberglass door is stained with gel stain and finished with poly sealer. Do I have to strip before restraining? Not necessarily. If the existing stain and finish is in OK shape then just 1 a good cleaning, 2 very light sanding to remove any embedded dust, and 3 final cleaning with a solvent deglosser is a good base for the application of more oil based gel stain and then finish.

Did you stain and treat the white trim around the window the same as the door? We have new doors with full length windows with the white trim. Yes we did. Just apply the stain as usual. With this door the trim was a light tan color. For white trim an extra coat of stain might be needed. I have a PlastPro fiberglass sidelight and the stained insert only has peeled off three times since its install in

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