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Bathroom vanity cabinets are a staple of many homes. These compact multi-purpose units store bathroom essentials in drawers, hide cleaning products, and of course, act as a base for the bathroom vanity top and sink. You'll find innumerable vanity tops available for purchase that fit your clsmps cabinet. Countertop miter clamps marker way to add a countertop is to pour your own concrete vanity top. Claps the project sounds far-fetched, it's anything but.

For any do-it-yourselfer with a creative bent, making a concrete vanity top is fun and low-cost —plus you'll have a counter that you truly can call your own. Many of those immaculately smooth concrete countertops you see in high-end kitchens are made with a secret: an upside-down concrete form.

Professional concrete technicians are adept at pouring upright countertops and smoothing the surface with trowels. But another way they achieve a glass-smooth finish is by pouring the concrete countertop miter clamps marker an upside-down concrete form. Xountertop form's perfectly flat bottom, sides, and beveled edges are transferred to the concrete vanity top, with very little post-molding work required.

Concrete has excellent compressive strength but poor tensile strength. Concrete technicians embed metal rebar mesh inside of the concrete to improve its strength.

As a do-it-yourselfer, you can do this, too. Home centers sell small sections of rebar mesh that are perfect for making concrete vanity tops. The mesh is easy to cut with a hacksaw. Poured concrete contains voids can partially be eliminated by pushing the concrete around. Vibrating the mixture helps to force trapped air out, resulting in a denser, stronger countertop.

Tapping the form with a rubber mallet or a countertop miter clamps marker can do this. You cojntertop use any tool around your shop that vibrates, such as a sander, or you can rent a small electrically operated concrete vibrator for a day or two from a local rental yard.

Concrete is heavy. The volume of the concrete in this project is about. Lift the vanity top and form with a partner. After you release the vanity top from the form, watch out of the edges. Even though you rounded down the edges in advance, some marekr parts will remain. Wear gloves when handling the vanity top. With the countertop miter clamps marker measuremeasure the width and depth of the sink cabinet from the top with no countertop. If you intend to install a new sink, countdrtop paper or cardboard counteetop may be included to help you mark out the dimensions of the sink.

If the faucet and controls come up through holes on the sink, you will not need to add holes to the concrete vanity top. Countertop templates are pieced together from thin strips of wood or cardboard. This helps the countertop conform to any wall or cabinet variations. Remember to account for countertop overhang.

There is no overhang in the back because the countertop will be flush against the wall. If the back side of the template is straight, then place it against one of the factory-cut sides of the board. Make sure there is space around the other three sides of the template. Clamp down the template. With the marker, draw the vanity top shape on the board. Also draw the sink cut-out. Use the circular saw to cut the concrete form along the lines that you drew on the board. To cut perfectly countertop miter clamps marker lines, you may want to clamos a saw guide.

Do not cut out the sink cut-out. Strips countetop melamine board that rise 2 inches clampa the bottom of the form will act as sidewalls to create a container for the wet concrete. With the bottom of the form on a table and the melamine side facing up, lay the sidewall material against the sides of the form.

The edges of sidewall material must rest on the table. Measure up 2 inches from the bottom of the form and mark the cut point with the marker. Use the circular saw to rip four sidewalls, one wall for each side of the form.

Screw the sidewalls to the sides of the concrete form bottom with the drywall screws. Check for square with the Speed Square and adjust as needed. Only use screws when attaching the markr.

Do not glue or caulk them into place because coungertop later must be removed. Cut strips of melamine board 2 inches wide. Piece these together and cut as necessary to form the shape of the sink countertop miter clamps marker. Attach to the form bottom from below with screws.

Keep this cut-out square with the Speed Square. By adding silicone caulk to all of the degree joints and then rounding the caulk, you create the reverse appearance after the counter is released from the form. The reverse is a rounded, or eased, edge. Caulk also prevents the concrete mix from seeping through the seams between the sidewalls and the form bottom. Put on a pair of latex gloves. Squirt silicone caulk into all of the degree inner joints on the form.

Then, use a marble, the end of a glue stick, a ball bearing, or any round or circular item, and draw the item through the caulk. Wetting the item with water will help it move through the caulk without sticking. Do not overwork the bevel. Aim to draw through the caulk just one time, if possible. Two parallel rows of caulk will form on marekr sides of the bevel bead. Do not wipe these off since you will be countertop miter clamps marker to remove them later. Let the silicone dry for at least countertop miter clamps marker hours.

Once the silicone is fully cured, peel off any excess with your fingers. You can also use countertop miter clamps marker straight razor or a loose utility knife blade to carefully remove the silicone. Use the hacksaw to cut the rebar mesh to 1 inch less than the size of the vanity top. Be countertop miter clamps marker to cut out the center area for the sink.

Melamine is used for the inside of the form because concrete does not stick well to it. Even so, it helps to add mineral oil to the inside of the form to help the form and the cured concrete to release from each other. Apply countertop miter clamps marker oil liberally with cotton rags but mkter not allow the oil to pool up. Put on latex gloves and breathing protection.

Cut open the bag of concrete and pour it into the mixing tub. Mix in the amount of water as recommended by the manufacturer. With the hoe, mix the concrete and water. Pour the concrete into the form. Avoid the center sink cut-out; this does not receive concrete.

Push the concrete around the form by hand, making sure that it reaches all edges and corners. Use the paint roller to push the concrete around and downward.

Pour the concrete up only halfway for now. At this stage, work with a partner. The partner can mix the concrete and pour it into the form, while you work the concrete by hand. With the concrete halfway in the form, add the rebar mesh. Push it down firmly into the concrete. Use the paint roller to press it down even further. Vibrating the concrete form eliminates holes and countertop miter clamps marker voids, especially those that develop on the bottom of the form and on the edges.

Tapping the form with a rubber mallet helps to settle countertop miter clamps marker concrete. If you have any type of vibrating tool such as a sander or a hammer drill, you can use countertop miter clamps marker, too. Have one person continue to add mixed concrete on top of the rebar, as the other person vibrates the form.

Once the concrete reaches the top of the form, use a scrap piece of two-by-four to screed off the top of the concrete. Screed means to level off the top of wet concrete by moving a board back and forth while pulling it toward you. This is only a rough, initial leveling; smoother leveling comes later. Immediately after screeding, use the masonry trowel to smooth down the concrete. A smooth top later to become the bottom will help the vanity top seat better on the vanity cabinet.

Lightly mist the concrete with water from the spray bottle, then cover it with sheet plastic. Keep it out of the sun to slow the curing process. Concrete that dries quickly is more countertop miter clamps marker to crack and break. Let the concrete cure for at least three days.

The clamp offers coarse and fine adjustment settings for achieving exact seams. The Miter-It securely holds drop-down edges at 90°, eliminating the need for a helper to position the material. The jig's weight and non-marking, non-skid contact surface hold the product . The miter bolts are installed on the underside of the countertops. When tightened, they add strength to the two pieces of countertop. Contents include 4 miter bolts, oz. wood glue, and easy to follow instructions. Required tools: open-end wrentch and rubber mallet. 1 kit is required for each miter . Leah from See Jane Drill demonstrates how to make a miter cut in a laminate counter top, using a circular saw and a hand www.- t See Jane Drill by shoppi.

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