The epoxy is spread along the surface and driven into the cracks with a putty knife. Watco exterior wood finish over stain using lacquer, you can finish a complete mahogany project in a few hours. Check Price. I have a piece of furniture that I am the fourth generation owner. They are outside and by the ocean salt water. Could I use a very light oiling to these pale areas to restore their color to match the rest of the ceiling? I am building an outdoor dining table and will be dtain the top out of red cedar.

Any help will be gratefull. You can oil the jarrah hardwood sleepers. I would recommend using an exterior wood oil or decking oil for the best results. This teak oil by Minwax or this Australian timber oil by Cabot is a good option. Thank you Donny. Both of these oils are great options. Most people use mineral oil to keep a natural look to the wood. If you use too much mineral oil you might get a slight gloss look.

Danish oil might darken the wood a little unless you get a natural color Danish oil or a color close to the wood you have. In your case, I would go with Mineral oil but both would most likely achieve what you want.

Hi William, We just purchased a used draw leaf table made in Denmark. And any pointers to determining whether it might be teak or white oak? To tell what type of wood it is look at the grain. Teak wood usually has a straight grain that looks like streaks or lines of darker color.

If you really want to know what type of wood it is, you can buy a white oak test kit. As far as trying to bring out the color in the wood without it yellowing or darkening too much, I would suggest using tung oil, teak oil, or even danish oil. Tung oil is considered to be the finest and most natural wood finish but it leaves a wet wood look. Teak oil is suitable for both exterior and interior surfaces.

It beautifies the wood and protects the wood from sunlight and water. Danish is the fastest to dry and can protect the wood against chemical damage, heat exposure, and surface scratches and stains. All of these oils are good, it just depends on what look you want and protection. Looking to refinish yellow cedar window frames. They are outside and by the ocean salt water. Any recommendations? Hi Lisa, to repeat the finish it is good to know what the old finish is.

For example, if it is a varnish and you want to apply oil, it is good to remove the old varnish beforehand or to re-apply the varnish on the same base of course if it has worked well so far. If the windows are treated with oil, you can simply apply a little. Teak oil like this is very suitable for your case like this one by Star Brite , which is a cleaning kit with which you can restore the wood if necessary , works well for both teak and other tree species.

In addition its resistant to saltwater can be used in a boat above the waterline. I am a bit undecided on how to treat my wenge bathroom cabinet — it has cracked along the veins and looks like it could use some love, but I am afraid to apply an oil that is going to leave it shinny. Similar to Alexa here-above, I have a black wooden credenza — very grainy and matte — which has been cleaned with some sort of detergent maybe windex?

Is Osmo the way to go? Yes, Osmo is a good brand proven over time. This oil has a matte finish so it will not make the surface shiny. For a black wooden credenza after washing well you can apply oil with black color and then transparent top oil for better protection.

What would you recommend using please? Hi Rebecca. I also like the natural look of the furniture, I congratulate you for wanting to keep your table in its natural look. You can use oil no. It also gives good protection. It is good to apply periodically or at the first signs of wear. What would be the best to use?

Hi Barbara, you can use oil number one on the list. Boiled linseed oil adheres well to old coatings, renews them, and gives good protection to the furniture. I have a Restoration Hardware dinning room table made out of distressed pine. What kind of oil should I use? Thanks Kathy. Hi Kathy. This oil will do a great job it has very good resistance and as we know the dining table is subjected to a large load. For an excellent result, you must remove the old coating to wood, sand to smoothness P and apply the Oil at least two coats.

If you want a different color you can apply oil with color and then protect with the oil mentioned above. If you do not intend to remove the old coating, this oil can be applied to natural oils or wax. So if the old coating is different the oil of the eighth is not a suitable option. You can refresh an old oil-based coating with boiled linseed oil , it also provides good protection but needs to be renewed more often. Hi Tucker. You probably used raw linseed oil, it really has an unpleasant odor and dries slowly.

Once it dries and the room is ventilated, the smell will gradually disappear. Under normal conditions, drying takes days but there are other factors that affect the drying time: — how thick the applied layer is — room temperature and ventilation — what is the basis for applying raw wood or coated wood — Is the oil diluted?

Provide good conditions for drying, ventilate well and throw away the application rags so that they are not in the room be careful the rags are flammable and soon you will not have an unpleasant odor. Hi Dan, you can apply Sunnyside oil to your floor will protect the wood from water and pollution.

For low traffic floors, it would do a good job. Keep in mind there are a few flaws: Flaxseed oil is not the best for floors because of no high wear resistance and hard coating. If the floor is exposed to heavy traffic, you may need to renew the coating frequently. Until it dries, it has a slightly unpleasant odor and also dries relatively slowly, it is good to ventilate the room well. Another option is to apply oil suitable for wooden floors such as this one by OSMO.

It has greater hardness and durability. Or an idea on the next best way to treat the wood and not have a lot left over. Thanks for your help! I would recommend using turpentine oil and linseed oil like this one by Sunnyside. If you are on a budget use the above product on a spray bottle that is nonreactive to chemicals like this one by HARRIS , which is great.

Just make sure to clean your carving of all the algae and detritus if any before applying the coat. Feel free to ask questions if you have any confusion. What finish should I use for Hickory furniture? However, when I wipe the pieces with a wed cloth, the colour changes to shades of very pale to white and a deep red. I want to keep the furniture to the shades of pale to mid brown if possible.

We have an unfinished oak coffee table that I was considering using linseed oil on to protect the wood. The Sunnyside website had some product information about diluting the linseed oil with mineral spirits for deeper penetration. Do you recommend this? Also, how many coats of linseed oil should I apply? I have just had some new very expensive ash internal doors made. Some of the doors will be used in bathrooms so I need something that is water resistant. Can you help please.

Your email address will not be published. Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Introduction There is certainly no shortage of toxins in the world, and it seems that new ones are being discovered all the time.

When it comes down to it, there are a lot of things in the Skip to content Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. Top pick. Faster drying time than raw linseed oil Brings out wood grain without changing the color Strengthens existing finishes Repels water Both interior and exterior. Not a one and done operation. It will require some periodic upkeep Reapplying the varnish year to year darkens the wood color Only interior.

Penetrates hardwood deeply to protect from within Dries quickly only about eight hours Water and UV resistant Suitable for above the water line marine use Exterior and interior. Great for wooden floors Uses both oil and wax to create a satin finish Low VOC and emissions compared to other similar products The finish lasts a few years.

Somewhat expensive Routine maintenance is required to prevent scratches Indoor use only. Low gloss option is better for surfaces with multiple imperfections Complements an existing finish Water and mildew resistant Dries clear.

Not recommended for floors Only for interior use. Good for hardwood grains Matte finish with a single coat and increasing sheen with multiple coats Moderately UV and water resistant. Solvent based, so you need ventilation Takes a long time to dry. It uses a solvent, so make sure you have plenty of ventilation. Penetrates wood deeply to condition Water and mildew resistant Easier to refinish later than pure varnish More durable than pure Tung Oil. Suitable for indoor pieces No harsh, toxic smell and no VOC Ideal for food preparation areas Suitable for surfaces with some imperfection.

The biggest benefit is that this one is definitely food grade. Food grade conditioning oil can be used in all your food prep areas Water repellant Resists dirt and grime, making it easier to clean Low odor Satin finish suitable for imperfect woods. Only comes in a half liter size. It can be challenging to smooth excess because of the driers in the formula.

Make sure you work with small areas a time to get the right amount of product in place. Not pure Tung oil Solvent based and will need ventilation. Very easy to use Time-honored solution Seals and finishes in one step Imparts a warm, golden color No need for curing.

Must be repeated more often Both toxic and flammable. Hi, Ryan. Thanks for the comment. I should give this one a try. Hi there. You may try different options and then stick to the oil which works the best for you. Hi, Joan. Hello Catesby. Hi Jane. Hi Lyn.

Hi Martin. Hi, Shakey. Hello Judy. Yep, you can use Watco. You may use mineral spirits to clean the wood before applying oil. Hi Alan. Hi Karen. Hi Peta. Hi Brian. Hi Alexa. Hi Elaine. Hi Sheri. Thanks for your comments, it will be very helpful for others. Hi Paula. Hi Pat. As I am just learning about all the available options, I was hoping I can ask for your thought. Thank you again, Li. Hi Alison, Oil or sealer would be a good choice but they add a bit of tint to the wood.

Hello, I am looking into turning an old antique english manogany end side table cabinet into a vanity sink. Hi Tiffany, Sunnyside oil is well suited for antique wooden pieces, check it out. Hi, It depends. Hi Charles, Lemon oil is a cleaning solution and polish rather than finish in most cases. Do you agree with this recommendation? Hi Chris, There are many options available for your situation but I recommend Watco Danish Oil since it has many colors you can choose Watco Exterior Wood Finish Instructions from to enrich the color of your cupboard.

I am not sure on the stain or oil to use to keep the top water resistant. Hi, If you chose stain you would also need a sealer because stain colors the wood but not waterproofs by itself. Hey William, Great article! What do I use on wood sculptured art? Hi Josh, Choose Sunnyside. Hi, Osmo Polyx is an oil specially designed for wooden floors.

Fantastic resource — glad I found your blog! I am a bit undecided on how to treat my wenge bathroom cabinet — it has cracked along the veins and looks like it could use some love, but I am afraid to apply an oil that is going to leave it shinny Similar to Alexa here-above, I have a black wooden credenza — very grainy and matte — which has been cleaned with some sort of detergent maybe windex?

Thanks for any input. Hi James, I am happy to know that I have been useful to you! I am worried that linseed oil will always have a bad smell to it, have you had this experience? Hello Michael. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Continue Reading. It is meant for only interior. Re-application of this product darkens over the years. This can be tackled with constant reapplication to prevent the surface of your job to dry out completely.

It has low VOC. Application is very easy. It dries very easily, 6 hours after application. Creates a natural warm finish. It protects against peeling, chipping, abrasion etc. Most users complain about opening the product. Although this product seems impossible to open, it still serves as a quality oil for wood which is natural and protects your wooden project from harsh conditions. I do recommend this product. It is boiled to cut down the drying time.

It is waterproof. It prevents chalking. Brings out the beauty of the wood grain without changing it. It is applied to existing finish to strengthen it. It is used for both exterior and interior surfaces. It has a strong odor. It is not safe for products that are meant for food one way or the other. One thing we loved about the Sunnyside Corporation S Boiled Linseed Oil is that it is used for both interior and exterior surfaces. Although it is safe for most furniture and antique finishes, it is not safe for food-based products because the agents used to speed up drying is not safe for consumption.

It is resistant to Ultraviolet rays and water. It can be used in both interior and exterior spaces. It dries quite quickly. It is suitable for above the water line. It penetrate and form a deep coating on the grains of the wood. It is not to be used on softer woods. It is not food safe. It has a lovely warm finish but constant use over time can darken the surface of the product it is used on.

I recommend this product. It has no metal heavy driers or solvents. The final finish would shine without a glossy appearance. It is very durable. It is a true all purpose oil for wood. It is advised to be used only in interior surfaces. It has a lasting awful smell. It is natural and it helps seal your wood protecting it from different conditions.

Users usually complain that the odor of this product seems to be too strong and it also last for a long period of time. This oil for wood dries clear.

It complements an already existing finish. It is resistant to water and mildew. It has a low gloss option which is okay for grains with imperfections. Used only for interior purposes. It is not suitable for wooden floors. The Formby Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish has a low gloss option which is suitable for imperfect surfaces giving it a hand-rubbed finish. This is because due to the more glossier the surface is, the more first and scratches can be noticed, so it comes in various choices that fit your taste.

I totally recommend. It is moderately water and UV Resistant. Sheen increases with coating. If you purchase or create your own mahogany furniture piece, you'll want to coat it with either a lacquer, penetrating oil, polyurethane, or shellac to truly make the piece pop. When it comes to the best stain for mahogany, lacquer is a top choice. Lacquer dries fast, is durable and doesn't have that plastic feeling that is left over when shellac or varnish is used. With only two coats of lacquer, mahogany is sealed permanently.

The first light coat of lacquer seals the pores. The second coat of lacquer builds on the first coat to provide a semigloss to the mahogany that is not too shiny. By using lacquer, you can finish a complete mahogany project in a few hours. Use penetrating oil to provide superior moisture protection in one step with one huge advantage; additional coats of penetrating oil can be added at regular intervals such as every six months, or even every year.

According to The Home Woodworker , penetrating oil is marketed as Danish oil, tung oil or even linseed oil, and gives mahogany clear finish.

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