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12.12.2020Due to its round design we have eliminated any work hardening zones in the gullet. Couple all this with our unique 6. They are. They also utilize the unique geometry of our PC gullet. These bands are primarily used in furniture industry. They have been designed to cut both fast and accurately in very thick wood such as stacked lumber. Woodturners use these blades to cut turnings out of large burls. Their applications are endless. Their performance is excellent if the thickness of your material exceeds 6 to 8 inches.
These blades are not meant to be used on any 3-wheel saw or for that matter any saws with less than a 90" blade length or wheel diameter less than 14".
The total overall set is less than. When you are resawing very expensive woods that are thick and you want as thin a kerf as possible, a super finish, and you are not concerned with speed, this is the blade for you. The variable tooth design reduces resonance throughout the blade; this combined with different size teeth produces a very clean finish almost polishing the wood as it is cut.
It is only. They are also very effective in plywood, particle-board and other similar products where tear-out is a concern.
The reason being it reduces wear and tear on the band saw tires, especially tires made of Timberwolf Bandsaw Sawmill Blades softer urethane, and it reduces stress on the blade. Good things for sure. I also learned that most newly manufactured band saws have a dedicated detensioning quick release lever, which makes the process very fast.
I would add one precautionary step to the detensioning procedure. Get in the habit of unplugging your saw every time you detension. That way the next time you start the saw you will be forced to plug it in and that should remind Timberwolf Bandsaw Blade Tension Data you to retension the blade. Otherwise, any benefit gained by detensioning will be lost to a much greater degree when you turn on your saw and the loose blade ruins your saw tires.
Click here to cancel reply. I am getting ready to do a bunch of resawing and have been looking for blades. Sounds like I found some. Like you, Bruce, I have never detensioned the blades in my decades of woodworking either.
What is the best blade I can buy? After reading this review, I ordered two timberwolf blades to see if I could get the same results on a Ridgid 14inch BS. It crosscuts a 4inch log much like a standard 6tpi would. So glad I gave it a shot. Jeff, I suggest you contact Timber Wolf and tell them about the troubles you are having with the one blade. I am unable to locate the answer to my question from last week.
Where would I find the answer to my question? We would be happy to answer your question. Please let us know what your question was, and we would be happy to answer it. What is your recommendation. Hi, Joe. You can call them at , or have a look at the web page. I do some very intricate cutting and need this size blade. What do you recommend. Hi, Mark. When the bandsaw adjuster is tightened, the wheels will pull on the hooks and the scale will tell you what force the spring is exerting.
You can do this even before the scale assembly is placed on the wheels. My spring had sagged a little bit so that this was no longer true as seen in the photo at the top of the page , so I removed the spring and shimmed with a washer to make this the case. With the scale assembly in place, start turning the adjuster. One slight twist is to divide by 2 when you label the marks, labeling this as 50 lbs rather than You can then get the tension on either blade segment by dividing 50 lbs by the blade cross-sectional area, without having to then divide by 2.
A small twist, but worthwhile. Continue tightening the adjuster until the scale reads lbs and mark the indicator, labeling this one as lbs. The lb mark should be twice as far from the 0 mark as the 50 lb mark; if not, go back and re-measure.
You can thus extend the marks to indicate and lbs on the gauge. In fact, by dividing lbs by the distance between the 0 mark and the lb mark, you can determine the compression rate of the spring.
For me, the distance between these marks was almost exactly 10 millimeters, so my spring exerts 10 lbs of force on each of the two blade segments per millimeter of compression. Our bandsaw now has a new scale, that shows the force exerted on the blade.
To determine the proper setting for a blade, we need to know two things:. The appendix shows the recommended tensions as published by some of the larger blade manufacturers, extracted from their documentation. The appropriate force setting is now just the recommended tension times the cross-sectional area. Measuring the width at the blade gullet with a caliper gives 0.
Thus the blade will be tensioned correctly if the tension indicator is somewhere between the and lb settings. To make this even easier and quicker, I created a spreadsheet to do the math and provide handy reference tables, shown below. The columns indicate the tension desired, and the rows the width of the blade as measured to the gullet.
The entries in the table then give the force setting needed. Each table is for a specified blade thickness; since I generally use 0. Remember that these tables are for the force marking as indicated above, where the reading on the scale is divided by two to give the force on each of the two blade segments between the two wheels.
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