Super FMT | Mortise and Tenon Jig Mortise Tenon Joinery

Table Saw Tenoning Jig — Tracks in the miter gauge slot of a table saw. Work pieces are clamped upright against rouetr vertical work support plate so saw cuts can be made in the end grain.

It reduces tear-out as the blade exits the work piece. There are many ways to cuts tenons. The right way is the way that works for you. Photo 1. Very common, and easy to make using a table saw. The panels fit in grooves cut on the inside edges of the frame stiles and rails. The rail ends have tenons that fit in the stile jog grooves. Tenons are cut on work piece ends, and then glued and pushed into mortises slots, or square holes cut on the edges of the mating pieces.

The beauty of this joint is that it creates a lot tenon jig router table ii degree face grain to face grain glue surface. The joints can be cut so the faces of the mated pieces are flush, or so they are offset to create a decorative reveal. Photo 2. Here's a "blind" mortise and tenon. There's no evidence of the joint when the parts are assembled. This joint is typically used on chairs, table bases, and cabinet face frames.

The generally acceptable method of cutting tenons and the method I used for most of my life, is to cut them on a table saw with a dado blade and miter gauge. You cut one tenon face, flip the work piece over, and then cut the other tenon face. The thickness of the routeg tenon is relative to the thickness of the work piece. This works perfectly fine if your project has only one tenon jig router table ii rail, but if you have tenon jig router table ii than one, the system breaks tenon jig router table ii. Achieving that, with even the best-tuned planer, is difficult.

I gave up on the cut, flip, cut method a few years ago, and instead decided to cut rouher tenons, mortises, and panel grooves all relative to one face so the work piece thickness is irrelevant. Doing so requires a tenoning jig, a well-tuned table saw, a quality crosscut blade, and a flat ground rip blade.

The alignment and fit of the tenons cut this way is infinitely more predictable. I like that temon look! Also, I try to center tenon jig router table ii tenons on the rail ends. Photo 3. Check the fit of your panel stock in the sample panel groove.

A good fit is jif where the panel slides easily and there's minimal play. I find it easier to start with my rails wide, cut the tenons, then trim the rails to their finished widths cutting tenon jig router table ii off tenon jig router table ii edge. That removes the tear out. Then I cut the panel grooves to match the tenons. The sample panel groove gives you a way to fit the tenons prior to cutting the final panel grooves.

Check the consistency of your panel stock thickness. It should be very close to all the same. Use one of the thickest pieces as a gauge for cutting the sample panel groove. You can cut, flip, cut; or cut, tenon jig router table ii the fence, cut. How you cut the groove, and how deep it is does not matter. Photo 4. Cut the tenon shoulders. Use your fence to set the tenon length. Set the blade height tenon jig router table ii almost cut the full shoulder depth.

You can cut, flip, cut unless your tenon is intentionally set off center. Cut the Tenons Cut the tenon shoulders using a tenon jig router table ii crosscut blade, a zero-clearance throat plate, and a miter gauge.

Test your setup on scrap wood. The cuts made with the tenoning jig later will finish the shoulder cuts. Cut a few extras for testing your tenoning jig setups later.

Photo 5. A flat ground rip blade is used to cut the faces of the tenon jig router table ii, as well as the panel grooves done later.

The flat teeth will square the routter to shoulder corners, and make flat bottom panel grooves. Photo 6. Make a spacer equal in thickness to your panel stock plus your flat ground rip blade.

Save your spacers so you can use them in the future to cut the same thickness tenons for other projects. Remember, this technique involves cutting both tenon faces relative rourer the front face of the rail. To do this txble will need to shift the rail in the tenoning jig. A spacer does the trick! Photo 7. Clamp the rail and spacer in the tenoning jig with spacer against the jig, and tenon jig router table ii rail front face against the spacer.

The rail end should be tight against the top of the riser platform, and the spacer end should be above the tenon shoulder. Photo 8. The first cut using the tenoning jig with the spacer in place cuts the front face of the tenon. Using a flat ground rip blade cleans up the corner of the shoulder at the same time. Adjust the distance so your tenon will be centered close to the end of the rail.

Set your blade height short initially. Wear a face shield when cutting your tenons. Small cutoff pieces can go flying! Make successive passes slowly raising the blade until the tenon face is cut and the shoulder corner is square and finished. Photo 9. The second cut with the rail oriented the same, but this time without the spacer, cuts the rear face of the tenon.

This shifts the rail tenon jig router table ii so the rear face of the tenon can be cut. Photo A good fit is made when the tenon goes in the groove with minimal force, but not too loose.

Too tight is not good either because adding glue will make it very hard to assemble the joint. Test the fit of the tenon in the sample panel groove. If your tenon is too tight, reduce the thickness of the spacer. Cut the panel grooves using the flat ground rip blade. Orient the faces of the stiles tenon jig router table ii rails against the tablee fence. This leaves a bit of room for glue on the tenon ends. The last step is to cut the panel grooves in the route and rails.

Make them fit the tenons, and align perfectly tenon jig router table ii the tenons. Set the fence so the first cut aligns with the front face of the tenon. Make this cut on all of your pieces, then shift the fence right, again orient the work pieces faces against the fence, then make the final cuts.

Cutting the edges of blind tenons is best done with a fine-toothed handsaw. Be careful not to disturb the side shoulders as you cut the edge shoulder. I like to error on the plus side leaving a bit extra that I then pare off with a sharp chisel. It seems every time I try and do that work with my tablle saw I create more problems, rather than save time.

Click here to cancel reply. Some great tips, Thanks. I just wish they would make these for left tilt saws. I have bench table saw. Tenoj jigs. Either with a tenon jig or with a dado blade. It would be slow but it would get the job done. Your glue surface would be a bit rough, so you could either clean it up with a shoulder plane or use a gap filling glue like polyurethane glue or epoxy. Hi Nice share. In my opinion the most stable cccam are those from Fishbone cccam I would like to see more posts like this Thanks.

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With the Leigh Super FMT Mortise & Tenon Jig plus a plunge router, any woodworker can easily produce the incredibly strong and versatile mortise and tenon joint with amazing speed and accuracy. The Super FMT's design is based on the original and incomparable FMT Pro. Aug 14, - Explore Fernando Z.'s board "Router Jigs", followed by people on Pinterest. See more ideas about router jig, router, woodworking pins.

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