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17.02.2021Home Articles Six Finishes for Woodturners. This article is from Issue 50 of Woodcraft Magazine. There is no one finish suitable for all of your woodturning projects. So where do you start when selecting the right one? While I cover several finish products here, be aware that many other quality finish products exist.
For an expanded look at products that can substitute for those featured, go to woodcraftmagazine. CA cyanoacrylate glues have proven ideal for small projects for quite some time. Recent developments have made some CAs more user-friendly and less likely to streak.
Combined with the abrasive mesh and polishing compound included in the kitthe multistep application process lets you produce a hard, durable finish quickly. And while the CA dries to a satin finish, it can be buffed to a high gloss. Be sure to heed the safety precautions mentioned at right whenever working with CA. Best Uses: CAs are especially good for pens, wine stoppers, game calls, and other small projects.
Downside: Take care when applying CA finish. Use nitrile gloves to keep CA off your skin and to prevent fingers from sticking to paper towels. Wear safety glasses or face shield.
Finally, ventilate the area as fumes can irritate. Buy a bottle of super solvent, just in case. Similar to other CAs by Satellite and Titebondthe finishing is simple. With the lathe at to 1, rpm, apply a few drops of thin CA to your project with a paper towel Photo A.
Then spray an aerosol mist of CA activator to cure the finish instantly and seal the wood Photo B. Sand the project lightly with abrasive mesh before applying medium CA finish Photo C. Using the same technique, apply three to five coats of medium CA finish, misting with CA activator after each application. However, the surface should be sanded with a sanding mesh to a uniform dullness or satin appearance.
Then, apply a small amount of satin CA polish with a paper towel Photo Dand buff until dry. Repeat with gloss polish for a gloss finish. General Finishes Water-Based Wood Turners Finish produces a rich amber tone that can be buffed to either a satin sheen selecting wood for turning level high gloss. It is food-safe, durable, and acid resistant. It applies easily and cleans up with water. More good news: it lets you achieve an attractive surface with only one coat for sealing and successive coats for a deeper luster.
It is not seen as selecting wood for turning level filler for open-grain woods. Best Uses: Use this finish on salad bowls, platters, salt and pepper mills, and other utility items needing a durable finish.
Application: With the lathe off, apply water-based finish with paper towels Photo A or brush it on with a foam brush. When applying multiple coats, the first application selecting wood for turning level dry in selecting wood for turning level to 45 minutes. Apply additional coats in 30 minutes. The final finish requires five to seven days to cure to be food-safe. Gloss spray lacquer produces a glass-clear coating that goes on quickly.
I prefer spraying over brushing. Selecting wood for turning level dries fast and lets you reapply it in 30 minutes, with no sanding in between. I like gloss lacquer over satin for building depth and because it contains fewer solids. Plus, you selecting wood for turning level repair it with a wax remover, light sanding, and another coat. Best Uses: Consider lacquer for small and large decorative turnings—vessels and other showy pieces.
Downside: Lacquer is flammable, and its fumes can be a problem. Spray only in well-ventilated areas and away from heat sources.
Application: Sand small hollow forms and similar decorative turnings through grit sandpaper before applying as many as five coats of gloss lacquer. Rotate the turning for an even coat all around. Once dry, use steel wool selecting wood for turning level clear Briwax to level the surface Photo B. Buffing with a buffing wheel and carnauba wax will bring out the shine. For a satin finish, skip the steel wool and wax and apply a final coat of satin lacquer finish.
Watco Penetrating Danish Oil, Natural, is a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish that penetrates, seals, and adds a low luster. While it comes in several shades, such as natural, walnut, cherry, and golden oak, I find that natural is the obvious choice for all woods. It applies easily, though it takes time to achieve the desired result. The final finish is relatively soft, somewhat durable, and repairs quickly. And while it dries slowly, it produces a warm amber tone. Best Uses: Watco Penetrating Danish Oil works well for general turnings and furniture such as the stool legs and seat shown below.
Downside: Watco Penetrating Danish Oil dries slowly, typically taking several hours. In fact, I like to wait 24 hours before reapplication. Take care to properly dispose of your oily paper towels to avoid a spontaneous combustion fire.
The product results in a satin sheen only. Application: With the lathe off, wipe on a full wet coat of oil using a paper towel Photo Aand allow it to penetrate into the wood for 15 to 20 minutes. Then wipe off the excess and burnish it into the wood with a dry selecting wood for turning level towel.
This is not the selecting wood for turning level as burnishing raw wood with sandpaper. Allow the coat to dry 24 hours or more, and then reapply to build three to five coats over the course of several days or weeks. When the piece is completely cured again, 24 hours after the final coatapply a coat of wax using steel wool Photo B.
Finally, buff the wood surfaces to achieve a pleasing satin sheen. One popular category used to finish the pepper and salt mills on page 38 includes friction finishes such as Hut Crystal Coat and Mylands High Build Friction Polish. When correctly applied, the end result is a glowing selecting wood for turning level, one-coat finish executed in record time. Downside: Because of its alcohol base, oils from your hands can degrade a friction finish over time.
Other ingredients include petroleum distillates, shellac, and waxes, making the finish highly flammable. Its fumes can irritate. To be safe, ventilate the work area, and stay away from any heat source. Application: Sand surfaces to grit or higher. Then, shake the bottle and add a few drops to a selecting wood for turning level towel. With the lathe turned off, selecting wood for turning level the friction finish on the turning.
Then, with the turned lathe on, hold a paper towel to the turning with moderate pressure. I found a 16 oz. It is colorless, odorless, tasteless, and totally inert.
It goes on easily, can be applied on or off the lathe, and is easy to repair. Add beeswax to it to add more protection and sheen, but not on art objects. It collects dust. Reapply as needed. Best Uses: I use the mineral oil and wax combo for selecting wood for turning level dippers, spurtles stirring stickssalad bowls, baby rattles, and other utility items.
Downside: This finish offers only low water resistance. It needs regular recoats and can collect dust. Expect a low luster only. Application: Apply mineral oil with the lathe running at a low speed Photo A.
A plastic pump bottle like the ones used for liquid soap makes a great dispenser for your oil. Use paper towels to make a pad, and pump a squirt or two of oil on it. Blot the oil to avoid a puddle on the pad as the spinning object will sling the liquid onto you and everything in the shop. As you apply the oil, burnish it into the spinning wood. The addition of beeswax over the mineral oil adds luster and a little more protection.
Then take a block of beeswax and apply it directly Photo B. Use a dry paper towel to buff the surface to a soft, fragrant finish. Nick Cook is a full-time professional turner whose home and commercial shop are located in Marietta, Georgia. In addition to turning anything from bottle stoppers to porch posts and everything in between, he is one of the founders of the American Association of Woodturners AAW.
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