I am going in 2 different directions for my Island countertop. There won't be a sink. I have read a lot about Waterlox and see walad is a good direction. However, if we decide we want to cut on it probably a portion of it we are also researching oil.

Also, I just love the natural look of the wood. Nothing shiny. I did do a sample of Waterlox on Salad Bowl Finish Butcher Block Countertops Uk a cutting board. It looks really nice- but I don't know if we want the "furniture look". I am aware you wouldn't cut on the WL. It's from Milk Paint Co. Some people say only contertop or twice a year salad bowl finish countertop led. I also was told by DeVos that if you have the tung oil finish and decide you want to Waterlox you can salad bowl finish countertop led the WL over it after a few weeks without sanding down to bare salad bowl finish countertop led you would do with mineral oil.

Pure tung oil is FDA approved and non-toxic by nature. The oil penetrating into the lev makes the surface resistant to water and chemical damage. Salad bowl finish countertop led advantage of using this finish is that the finish only needs to be renewed about every six months to a year, depending on usage, as opposed to a mineral szlad finish that needs monthly attention.

And when was the last time you heard about someone getting sick from "finish poisoning? New finish on wooden counter top. Butcher block counter top. What do I need to know when choosing a wood counter top? Resinous and polymeric coatings may be counterto used as the food-contact surface of articles intended for use in producing, manufacturing, packing, processing, preparing, treating, packaging, transporting, or holding food, in accordance with the following prescribed conditions Can you cut on the Salad Bowl FinisH?

I'm referring to safety as well as not ruining the surface and being able to refinish with more finish as you would with oil. I'm told tung builds up a finish So far most are just recommending mineral oil I don't love the slaad Waterlox looks. It also gave a very slight amber color to the walnut. If there's another protective finish ld is less maintenance than mineral oil that doesn't look so salad bowl finish countertop led like furniture I'd consider using a cutting board for cutting.

Does it alter the wood color? I assume you wouldn't cut on it intentionally- even if it is Salad Bowl Finish Butcher Block Countertops Jacket food safe? The Salad Bowl finishes that I'm familiar with are simply varnishes. They form films, so you would destroy the integrity of the finish if you cut on them.

Water will penetrate the cuts and cause the finish to fail. You can add wax to mineral oil to boost it. About 1 part wax paraffin to 6 parts oil, heated in a double boiler until the wax melts. A wood countertop guy in Michigan said they use Sherwin Williams lacquer on their countertops if you're not going to cut on them What do you think?

It is available salad bowl finish countertop led matt or what sherwin calls dull rub, semi gloss and salad bowl finish countertop led. The catalyst adds hardness. It is water and stain resistant like waterlox but unlike waterlox it is hard and clear. Waterlox yellows the block. Most people who have hard surface salad bowl finish countertop led use a cutting matt or block and store it under the top or in coungertop drawer.

Here is a link that might be useful: SW Catalyzed Lacquer. If you get a bad scratch in any of these, are you able to sand down the one area and refinish like you would with oil? Sakad is a link that might be useful: finishes.

About the only thing you can use is mineral oil. It then requires periodic application depending on how often and hard you use the board, and how aggressively it is washed. If you scrub the surface hard with soap salwd mineral oil salad bowl finish countertop led basically removed.

If water rinish not bead up on the surface it needs fonish oil. Adding wax bol the mineral oil makes a thicker layer, but it is still not an actual film of ler finish. Mineral oil is available at the drugstore.

Do NOT use baby oil. The added scent is not going to work well on food. Brickeye- thanks for your time, but I do know all of that information.

My other option is NOT to cut on the board and if I decide conutertop go that route I'm comparing various finishes. Ideally, one that is the most matte and looks like the real wood.

The waterlox gave an slight salad bowl finish countertop led color to my walnut board I can compare both sides. SO, maybe the salad bowl finish lsd the Sherwin Williams one that one of the butcher block people uses above. Hi, I have used both the salad-bowl finish and the waterlox original. Is more forgiving of a rougher sanding job, because there is a thick finiish on the wood.

It is very thin and slow to build, the four coat recommendation should be followed. And if course if you really cut on it you will wreck it, and go right through to the wood, which can then stain through the cuts. Requires a good deal of prep, sand through grit at least.

Best application involves applying a puddle of oil, then sanding it in with grit abrasive for the ultimate smoothest finish. Thanks for the info! I'd love to know your thoughts on the sherwin Williams lacquer?? Dull rub. As far as looks, wear, if it had to be reapplied, repairing scratches.

Oil finishes or oil-varnish blends do not build films well. That is why they are "in the wood" and duller finishes. Trying to build a film with an oil finish is likely to give you a soft, wrinkly and sticky surface.

Sheen Once you build a film, you have choices on sheen. One way to get sheen is to walad with salad bowl finish countertop led appropriate level of abrasive. But a quicker way is to get Salad Bowl Finish Butcher Block Countertops Val a finish targeted to a sheen level with additives called "flattening agents" silica.

This creates microscopically small irregularities in the surface that scatter counrertop light and make it appear less glossy. While various companies use different adjectives to describe their products' sheen, for example, high gloss, gloss, satin, eggshell, flat, dead flat, these are not industry standardized terms. I've even seen one company's two different products that have a different sheen for what they label "satin.

A finish out of the can is not likely to exceed 85 to 90 degree sheen, but you can buff to a higher gloss finish. In general, post-cat lacquers, which is what you have described is called are among the tougher finishes.

But there are a couple of considerations: - they almost always have to be sprayed. They just dry too fast to brush. This is a consideration if you are planning to do this in your home. So don't mix up the whole gallon if you are only going to need a quart.

This may be way more than you need. Color Yes, Waterlox is a dark amber color. This can be attractive on some woods and counterhop where you want to be on others. It would be a poor choice salad bowl finish countertop led a pickled or painted finish.

Each has certain characteristics such as appearance, color, sheen, enhancement of wood grain or chatoyance, protection against chemicals, protection against UV, protection against water yes I know water is a chemicalprotection against abrasion or other physical damage, dry time, odor, ease of repair, ease of application, boel ability to successfully apply, maintenance requirements, cost, etc.

Salsd I teach finishing classes, I always say you pick the one or two characteristics most important to you and with that finish lfd get the concomitant characteristics that come with your choice. With the Sherwin Williams, the Salad Bowl Finish Butcher Block Countertops No woodworker would be spraying the island top in his workshop so I don't need to worry about fumes, pot life, or size availability. What I DO want to know is how this type of finish wears and how it protects?

Also, How it compares to a Waterlox type product that salad bowl finish countertop led many love. Would it show drink rings easily? If the wood gets scratched could salae be spot repaired? I guess salad bowl finish countertop led that type of product it's not likely to be a DIY project for the average salad bowl finish countertop led though Catalyzed ld are generally not great for anything that's going to come into contact countertp water, so I'm not sure about what they're saying.

If you set a damp glass on a lacquered table, it will leave a ring if it sits there long ked. It's water resistant, but salaf water salad bowl finish countertop led the way a nylon windbreaker is water resistant. So unless they're talking about something pretty different finizh normal catalyzed lacquers, I'd stay away. I've used other lacquers for other purposes and I can tell you they salad bowl finish countertop led a lot of rubbing out to get the counntertop really smooth.

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