I agree with your fof idea. The works of this fence is the same as the Incra Ultra router table fence. Jimbob 5 months ago. Write Comment You must be logged in to write a comment. Go to Home Page.

That's a benefit when using large pieces. Downside being, guards, blades and such have to be moved out of the way. Nucraft used to make a steel or cast iron one.

It was very expensive. I haven't seen them advertised in a long time, don't know if they are still around. Thought Veritas might make one, but it isn't on the Lee Valley website.

Veritas does make a steel table that could be made into one pretty easily. I'm not aware of anyone else making one prepackaged. Great TS fence but when they came out with the Wonderfence, I decided to put a router table on the right side of my saw. I built an oak frame to hold my Veritas Steel router table which bumps against and is Router Table Attachment For Ridgid Table Saw Co flush with the top of the saw table. Since the Veritas table is only 16x24, I then extended the formica until it supported the full length and width of the saw's capacity.

In essence, the Veritas table is a really big insert [img]smile. The formica gives me a 2" border front and back plus the extension required to reach the fence when fully retracted. Therefore, the stock is fully supported for all saw operations.

It works great and I can use my Grip-Tite magnetic featherboards for both table saw and router operations. The veritas table simply sits on the frame so I can simply tilt it up to service the router using a wood brace that I attached to the frame. The frame is bolted to the saw using the standard bolt holes with the far side being supported with 45 degree oak braces attached to the saw frame.

I did this to keep it mobile. The Wonderfence attaches directly to the TS3a fence so I can move from saw to router operations in about 10 seconds. I did the former with a jigsaw and the latter with the table saw, then fixed the frame in place using flat-head screws in the holes that were already there.

Drill holes and drive screws through the frame into the underside of the table to fix it in place I used 6 , and mount your router. The way this is set up I can either use the fence that came with the router or the fence on the table saw if I need to rout a larger workpiece. The whole setup works very nicely and it was just a quick job.

Reply 5 months ago. Reply 1 year ago. Sounds simple enough so maybe there's an intructables or a video? Why didn't you do this? Yup - love the portability of those saws. I managed to snag one of the last cast topped tables before the switched them to the new material can't recall what they make the table tops out of now. Just one little tidbit to add - you will want to add some sort of angled brace from the outer edge of the router table insert to the table saw base to prevent any strain on the TS rails over time.

Doesn't have to be anything fancy - just to take the load off the rails. Handiest upgrade you can make to any table saw - and your router table will actually get used more! Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. This one has a cast iron center with pressed steel wings. It's still heavy, but not compared to a cabinet saw. I thought about bracing it, but the router is not all that heavy and the rails are very solid. The brace may also make it a little tricky to store I tuck the saw under the my workbench when not in use.

May have to reconsider if I detect any signs of strain. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Am in the process of building my router table add on. Great idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it to your saw. I just purchased this saw. The center section is still cast iron. They no longer make either wing out of cast iron.

And am in the process of building my router table. What a cool idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it into the table. I agree with your support idea. I think this idea is great but I would be concerned about stressing the rails. By putting all of the difference along the front, I avoided having to shim on both sides. I used my digital calipers to measure how far the front of the wing casting stood proud of the centre section of the table saw and stacked stainless steel shim stock to sit between the front fence rail and the table top.

It came out to be about 0. In retrospect, I probably should have put the error along the rear rail instead of the front but it seems to work OK. After re-installing the front fence rail, I discovered that I needed to drill a hole through the wing casting to accept the fence rail mounting bolt. Drilling cast iron is easy — lubricate and drill with progressively larger drills to reach your desired size. In the pictures, you can see my new router lift. There was nothing to installing that beyond following the instruction manual.

My initial impressions are really positive. Doing this has had the desired effect of eliminating my free standing router table. I bought them at the same time. Installed and […]. Thanks again, Derek! I am looking at purchasing the same cast top and a JessEm lift, did you have to do any modifications to get the lift plate to fit and anchor into the cast top? The dimensions of the plate opening on the casting and the dimensions of the lift plate are theoretically the same. The first time I installed the JessEm lift, it was quite a snug fit, but it went in.

As for anchoring, the lift plate sits on several grub screws, and I never felt a need to anchor it down beyond gravity and friction. I suppose if you want, you can drill the cast iron and use the countersunk holes at the corners of the plate with a machine screw, nut and fender washer.

Digital Talking Tape Measure Analysis Digital Laser Tape Measure Uk Test Rockler Cnc Machine Jacket