Кондуктор Pocket Hole Jig для создания различных соединений с потайными карманами по шурупы. 11 видов соединений. Толщина зажимаемой заготовки - от 16мм до 38мм, мин. ширина заготовки - 38мм, расстояние между отверстиями - от 29мм до 63мм, диаметр сверла.  Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. Кондуктор Trend Pocket Hole Jig, для угловых конструкций. p. Набор KREG KPHA используется с приспособлением Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig при деревообработке. Данный набор позволяет легко устанавливать необходимое расстояние между просверливаемыми отверстиями. Параметры упакованного товара Единица товара: Штука Вес, кг: 0,08 Длина, мм: Ширина, мм: Высота, мм: There are other pocket hole jigs out there as well but the Kreg is so well made and reasonably priced that I have stayed with it. If my boxes were going to double as engine stands then I might consider investing in a biscuit joiner. But with a little planning all the pocket holes can be made in the inside of the box. The holes can be filled with wood dowels but I like Bondo auto body epoxy. If you need to make a pocket hole that will show then it is easy to match wood or use contrasting wood to plug the hole and it is invisible or stylish contrast, your choice. Perplexed1ne. View Public Profil   I love my Makita Biscuit Joiner and my DeWalt Router. It's like air-conditioning. Once you have it, you can't do without it. I like the fact that no clamps are viscuit with pocket screws once the joint is assembled. With all pocket hole jig vs biscuit joiner version new style joinery bits now coming out on the market, I would like to see an article involving their use and or practicality. So for me the Domino and pocket vedsion method has saved me time and in the long run money. As an aside, I do own a dowel-jig, and I depend on it far more often for both strength and for alignment, for superior results. BiscuitsPM. Sometimes there is not even the need for glue.

It's my preferred jointery technique, and I have been known to re-engineer the project so Domino joints will work better. I haven't yet done a project where I was worried about the Domino joint not being strong enough, though I suppose there are those situations. JSands Posts: Sometimes I prefer a little slop, so I can assure a flush surface with clamps The one thing often overlooked about standard biscuits is there thinness I was edge joining some 8mm thick boards last week, sure glad I had my biscuit jointer I know this is not the norm, but its a classic example of using the ideal tool for the job.

Yes, biscuits offer less strength, but in many cases, mainly edge to edge glue ups, they add more than sufficient strength for the end product, so after you pass the desired strength threshold, who cares Dowels assure very precise alignment I use them for precise set-ups As with most tools Festool makes, if it involves cabinets, bookcases, built ins, etc.

But other ww projects fall outside this domain. So as others have pointed out, all the loose tenon joinery methods have a place, with the domino prob. Hi, Jsands, the thinnest Domino now available is 4mm. Might be useful to you. Wow, is that new? Yep, this thin domino now is stealing what little thunder the ol biscuits had remaining :- I fear buying one now Ken Nagrod Restricted Posts: I wanted to start making mitered cabinet doors, so I have a biscuit jointer that I havent really used, Im sure a domino would do the trick but to spend buck for a tool when I own one that will work didnt make sense so I performed this test Saturday.

Experiment: In order to verify whether biscuit joinery can successfully be used to make mitered kitchen cabinet doors. Titebond II was used as the adhesive and collins clamps were used as the clamping devices. I used my Kapex to cut 2 ea 45 degree miters in the sampled. First experiment was testing the miter using a 0 sized biscuit. The slot was cut and The Titebond was applied to the jointed surfaces, slots in the materials and the biscuit.

The collins clamps were then attached. The glue was allowed to dry for 4 hours. The collins clamps were removed and the miter joint was then struck repeatedly with the plastic hammer. The joint easily separated after a few blows.

First experiment was testing the miter using 2 0 sized biscuits. Note the joint due to the limited clamping pressure of the collins clamps could not completely close. The third experiment was testing the miter using a 0 sized biscuit. The third experiment was testing the miter using 2 ea 10 sized biscuit.

Surprisingly the 2 ea 10 biscuit did not hold held the joint together as tightly as the single 10 biscuit. Conclusion: When applied with proper clamping pressure it appears that a appropriate sized biscuit can securly and tightly hold a miter joint together for a kitchen cabinet door.

However over the course of the long term the tester feels that the strength of the biscuit is unconclusive. Because I didnt use the proper clamping pressure.

But I noted that in my report. I feel I put much more stress on the joint. I noticed the single 10 biscuit didnt fail. I think it was because it did have the proper amount of clamping pressure. However it would be stronger and the same with the double 10 biscuit joint if I had used the proper clamping pressure. I also feel if I would of used a different type of glue such as gorilla glue which is water activated would of increased the strength of the joint by virtue of the water swelling the biscuit more and quicker then Titebond does.

I do feel that the the biscuits would work over the long term but I cant make that conclusion based on my experiment. I started with biscuits. Somehow, they never really worked for me.

Everything was always fractionally misaligned, not perfect. I'm a hobbyist, so it could be down to practice, but I aways found myself breaking out the sander. I got a domino, and I'm not more careful and precise with it occasionally I'm downright sloppy , but the joints are better. I have no idea why. The range of uses is immense, I've used it to knock together ply boxes that are too thin for biscuits, making frames I still have the biscuit jointer, and I use it for the natty hinges that Lamello make, and for edge jointing thin ply.

One advantage of pocket screws when used without glue is that the joints can be disassembled, so if you are working on something temporary, or something you will later take apart for storage You could probably still cut either biscuit or domino slots and glue into one side only to help with alignment in that situation? TealaG Posts: I'm a hobby woodworker with simple skills.

I've been using Pocket screws with success. But I have hit my last straw after having the screws in the way when I needed to drill a hole into the screw yeah yeah.. The pockets are indeed ugly. I'm having lots of trouble aligning the pieces before attaching. I've tried many clamps and techniques. Could I ask whether the dominos are faster or slower than using pocket screws?

I built my pocket screw station with foot pedal and I felt that it sped up the process without having to invest in a Foreman which I don't like anyway. With experience, will a Domino be a similar speed - speed of creating the mortises and assembly vs drilling pocket holes and assembly?

I should have mentioned that I make very simple projects - a box with a shelf or two, I want to make small crates to hold my yarn, little wood trays to hold my tools.

Nothing fancy, not "heirloom", or "craftsman". Simple utilitarian things in custom sizes that you can't buy at the store. Is one better then the other? Tags: None. I own kreg's pocket jig, and I've borrowed a biscuit joiner a couple of times. I wouldn't say they do the same thing; but I would say IMHO , a biscuit joiner is not a 'must have' tool.

As I see it, it does not add much strength to a joint, and is more used for aligning the two parts and even that is not absolutely exact ; on the other hand, pocket screws do add quite some strength, and at times can be used to build whole projects.

IOW, biscuits are good for say face-frames and such, while pockets screws could work there, and for other structural strengths too, say the whole cabinet.

As an aside, I do own a dowel-jig, and I depend on it far more often for both strength and for alignment, for superior results.

It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Comment Post Cancel. I have both a biscuit joiner an old model made by Skil and a pocket screw jig from Penn State Industries. I think they are very different joints. Biscuits are useful when edge joining boards like for a table top mainly to help with alignment. I also use them sometimes to reinforce miter joints.

Pocket screws are, to me, a quick and dirty joint to use where it won't show. Wood magazines tests showed pocket screws to have more strength. I don't think their tests were entirely fair to biscuits they used narrow boards and small biscuits but I was surprised at the strength of pocket screws. I like having both. Pocket screw jigs are relatively inexpensive. I use both. I just never got the hang of pocket holes for this. Both of my problems are probably due to the angle the screw goes in.

I think one of those pocket hole machines that cuts nearly parallel screw pockets would work better But I do use the pocket hole jig to attach assembled face frames to cabinets. And I've used it for all sorts of other things, too. I once used pocket holes when I had to open a bathroom wall to add a support for a pedestal sink.

I wanted to be able to fasten the horizontal brace without having to open too much wall and it really did the trick. I will add that my first biscuit jointer was a Ryobi where the blade cut too wide a kerf. That thing was useless. I upgraded later to a Makita, which I think worked great. But now I have a PC, which I think works the best of all. I also do a lot of biscuiting on my router table. Originally posted by Eagan View Post.

Like why do cooks have more than one pot? I sold my biscuit joiner and kept my pocket hole jig. They don't do the same thing, but there is some overlap in their capabilities Others opines may vary, however for a bar stool, I would use dowels. Unless you can get a pocket hole jig big enough to handle coach bolts, I'd stay away from it. Do it properly and use dowels, it's a good skill to have anyway. Pocket hole screw jointing is for those that have no idea and no skills, too lazy to learn how to do real joints.

The person who never made a mistake never made anything Cheers Ray. Maybe they are not the sort of joinery I'd use on an ebony and burr walnut stool, but you'll get your pine or Australian hardwood stool knocked up in a weekend or two. If you can afford the time to do dowels, you can afford the time to do proper mortice and tenon joints! Originally Posted by rwbuild. Thanks for that, my dowelling skills do need improving Cheers.

Thanks, I was going to ask that question about strength, from what I have read they said the pocket hole joint was a very strong joint, the test results would beg to differ.

Interesting thought, if I was to screw the timber together wouldn't that be stronger joint than a dowel joint, yes you would see the screws but if they where like a feature. So you would think that a pocket hole joint would be just as strong. However, it seems that length of the screw is less in the hole part of the timber than the mating part hope that made sense, without pictures , hence the lack of strength. It's very rare that you find furniture that has broken in service due to people loading it with steel rams.

It's hard to translate to normal use scenarios. Over time, I'd expect the lack of face grain to face grain contact in a glued dowel to cause the glue line to break as the wood went through seasonal movement, eventually leading to the dowels becoming loose. As even hospital grade equipment fails under that sort of weight, I don't see it as much of an issue.

Of course, that's assuming either bare feet or sneaker-type footwear, but my imagination fails me at the concept of someone weighing kilos in stiletto heels sitting on a bar stool, as that sort of point loading makes even concrete and granite cry. I have seen some dinning chairs constructed with pocket holes.

From the very cheap set of dinning chairs to the very expensive ones.

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