The shocks are the original but have no signs of leakage and are full of fluid. Also, I only have a three eared gear puller style puller, can Copmany pull the wheel hub off with this or need a more specialized tool? John Thank you very much John, I appreciate your advice. It's very rare! Unfortunately, the rear axle oil level ran low due to leaking seals at the wheels and the outer wheel bearings got hot. God Bless! Thanks, Jeff.

Also, you can hide your joints to make the furniture look presentable by joining the different pieces with screws. A pocket hole jig is helpful in drilling a straight hole without any hassle ; it also helps in holding the material which is to be drilled in a perfect position. Nowadays jigs also have guide holes which help in achieving precise straight drill hole effortlessly. Both of these pocket hole jigs are user-friendly, portable and can be used with the help of the guides provided with these tools.

To choose between these jigs factors like usage, the thickness of the material to be drilled, etc. Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. We went through all the products available in pocket hole jigs and found the two best ones in this category Harbor freight pocket hole jig Kreg Jig In this article, we will see the features of both these pocket jigs and also look at the differences between them.

Harbor Freight HF pocket hole jigs are made up of anodized aluminum whereas Kreg Jig has a plastic body. Kreg Jigs have solid metal drill guide as compared to HF jigs which have hardened steel drill guides for aiming the maximum precision. Now comes the part that needs finesse. Reinstall the flange, fit the nut, then begin to tighten the nut, constantly feeling the restriction to movement of the front flange. You are searching for a pre-load, or resistance to turn, of about one foot pound.

The "feel" is a very slight tightening. Further, you should not use an air impact to turn the nut as there is little control. But, you have to keep the flange from turning, so you'll have to make up a tool that you can bolt to the front flange. You could bolt this tool to the front flange, but then you wouldn't be able to feel the preload. Tighten, feel; tighten, feel; tighten,feel. Eventually you'll begin to draw the two taper bearings close together and achieve this very slight resistance to turn.

I'd be pleased to review this with you on the phone. Of course, it would make a good addition to our YouTube videos.

BTW, don't forget to refill the diff with oil! I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special tool" and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove. You have seen my restoration photographs and are aware of my efforts to accurately build an historic SCCA rally car on an as original platform.

Within this thread we are examining two points of originality whether the bolts and seals of the front inner fender flitch were painted; but also of the rugated paint found in that area; on the underside of the monocoque; and along the bottom of the cockpit; floor pans; and transmission tunnel.

This was not a rustproofing to our knowledge but Lloyd Faust has suggested it to be soundproofing which is quite plausable since it is found in sound transmittal areas within the car's interior. The paint does contain upon examination a tar like substance within the raised areas. John- What do you know about the inner fender panel- was it painted at Pressed Steel then added to the car in Abingdon?

This would account for the unpainted bolts and rubber seal. As far as the sound deadening paint- examples suggest application as early as throughout the production range. Lloyd Faust provided a example.

What are your observations here? Our efforts are aimed at perhaps establishing a restoration manual for the MGB encompassing the years of production and as many aspects as we can. Would you be willing to become a reference for this effort? It would require email correspondence periodically as different aspects of the production are confirmed and documented. Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter. God Bless!

Tony Brown RN mgbbrown. Tony, The cars were delivered to Abingdon painted with the hood fitted. My best guess here is that the splash panels were fitted after the fenders were fitted, hence the unpainted bolts and Phillips screw at the bottom. But the goop on the bottom? I would guess it to be rust preventative as the sound deadening was handled on top. But again, this is only my best guess. Tony, you know that I have an extensive library of factory publications, and most but not all of the confidential service memoranda sent to the dealers by the manufacturer BMC, BL, JRT.

So, yes, I would be pleased to be included in this effort. Do not forget the incredible knowledge within the British Motor Trade Association britcar. I noticed you still have Caroline listed in the address. This past Saturday was the third anniversary of her death. Thanks for all your work to ensure that our cars are original! I purchased the car many years ago because it is virtually rust free and I have never liked the colour. I have the engine out to rebuild and am considering painting the engine bay with a new colour so that when and if!

I repaint the car, that work will be already done. Peter, Some guys like redheads. Some guys like blondes. Citron is one of those rare earth colors like mirage, aqua, limeflower, or tundra. In the day it was called snot yellow 'cause it's not green and it's not yellow but with all these years passed, it is rarely seen and fascinating.

I can tell you that changing the color the car is a very difficult job to do correctly. The trunk must be changed and the interior has to be removed to cut in around all the door jambs etc. I'm "Mr Original. The factory code is BLVC You were referred to me as someone whom could possibly help with a paint code question.

I've gotten paint code charts on the internet for DuPont that's the paint my body shop uses. According to the chart Tartan Red is Dupont I went to the Dupont automotive paint distributor yesterday to get a "sampling" of the paint and they said that did not come up in the computer.

Their Tartan Red for British Leyland was I am confused. I want to paint the car the right color but I am not sure of the info I have. Can you direct me? Thanks for your help, Gaye Hanley. It would appear that there is a typo in the information that you have. I would trust that the paint supplier will provide the correct color. The vagaries of on-site mixing, even with "computer controlled mixing" will result in different colors, let alone the temperature of the spray booth, humidity, etc.

Hope everything works out well for you! Any idea how to get the hood open? Thank You Clarke. Good luck! While you are having some difficulty with this, imagine the problem of a TR6 owner whose cable has broken. His problem is truly horrid Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System Harbor Freight Company as the bonnet opens from the back and the cable and latch are totally hidden from view! John, Thanks for answering my Questions about restoring my existing Wire Wheels. I have a few more questions and would greatly appreciate your response.

Who do you recommend purchasing after market bumpers from. Scarborough Faire, Moss or Victoria British? I have been told Scarborough Faire has the most original looking bumpers on the market. Moss told me they just re-tooled their bumpers for a better fit.

Do you have a preference for fit and finish? Who do you recommend purchasing the front grille from? Moss or Victoria British. Of the three parts suppliers do you have a preference on all the chrome pieces. Vents, badges.. I called British Wire Wheel and they told me about tubeless sealing on certain wire wheels.

Do you recommend tubeless sealing or sticking with tubes? Can you give me a recommendation on tires. Thank you Cliff. I do have over messages in my in box, if you can believe that! We do most of our purchasing from Moss and our generally satisfied with their parts, but the chrome parts from any source are problemsome.

Buy the repro overriders if the costs of re-chroming are exorbitant. The same goes for the grille -- especially the grille!! The new grilles are not formed properly so the body MUST be fitted to the grille, not the other way around. The smaller parts are more easily purchased new rather than chromed, but the original parts are ALWAYS of better quality. The windscreen frame must be rechromed, as new parts are not available.

I prefer the Michelin XZX, but those are not easily available. Hello John, I really enjoy your MG web pages. I have a technical question. The trunck lock on my 74 MGB roadster is broken. The botton pushes in but there is no spring back and the latch doesn't relaease. Thanks in advance, Kevin Gervais. You may find the first option, as disgusting as it seems, to be the easier. Just DRILL out the center of the pushbutton -- then by wrenching the guts of the pushbutton completely out, you can gain access to the lever in the latch.

The second operation requires a lot of finesse. One upright is about four inches, the other upright about three feet. The base of the "U" is the distance between the left reverse light and the latch. Remove the left reverse light, and work this tool into place. Fiddle for two minutes or four hours, trying to press the latch lever rearwards. It's helpful to have another MGB around the continue to look at and practice on another MGB whose trunk opens normally, of course.

Our most difficult opening job was Rita's MGB -- she had no less than 20 pairs of shoes in the trunk! John - I am seeking some advice regarding sheet-metal fabrication to replace some rusted panels on my YT. I have purchased new sills from NTG in England, but the resemblance between those and the originals is not totally clear to me. At best, they don't quite replace all the material that needs repair. While I've done a fair amount of welding on the B having recently reconstructed a badly rusted '65 pull-handle shell the YT is a whole new kettle of fish.

I am committed to doing this work myself, even if it means learning how to fabricate compound curves. So far it appears the problems are in the sill areas and below the spare wheel opening - the wings and running boards appear to be in excellent condition - although I've only removed those on the left side. Time is not a factor and I am only interested in learning to do it correctly.

Two questions: 1. Do you know of a newer address for Jerry Keller? Do you have some other advice or suggestions? I can do this on my own - Pocket Hole Jig Kit Harbor Freight University and if necessary, I can figure out how to do it without advice, but it seems a shame to re-invent the wheel.

If somebody out there has the experience and advice, I'd be happy to pay for it. It's a case of "Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach him how to fish and he eats for a lifetime. In all cases, I have asked for the same advice. I have also asked for advice on the MG list mgs autox. It seems nobody has had this experience. You've always been so helpful - many thanks for any advice you can give me.

Allen Bachelder. We just happen to have a YT in the shop right now. If you want some digital pix, I can send them. Good luck, Allen! I am searching for a radiator grill shell for a MGTD. Do you have one or know of someone who may? Thank you, Hubert Talley. Also, visit www. John, Thanks again to you and your staff for the technical seminar. What more could you ask for in February! I talked to Lisa about what I had found in the area of painting systems and she suggested I cover you with the specifics for you files That got me looking around since my B was previously painted New Racing Green and I wanted to repeat the color.

I found ICI--can't remember if it's Imperial Chemical Industries or Imperial Coating Industries, but was told that they are a British firm and that they were the paint supplier to MG as well as most other British automotive manufactures. They had what I was looking for and told me they could provide virtually any color used by MG. The closest distributor to me and probably you also is an outfit called Single Source in Troy, Michigan. Their technical man is named Brian and he can be reached at Don't know if this is new to you but thought you'd want to know if it is.

Ted Barron. I am having a tough time finding a spot welder to economically rent or purchase. Thanks John Bries P. Your website is great! Grind off the excess. Now the weld is just as a pot weld, very strong, and the draught excluder will fit.

Contact him for the good stuff. No one else's really fits well. There is always something more to do. Do you restore wiper motors for this vintage car? John Schmale Mahomet, Illinois. I have been successful in rebuilding the wiper motors. I have yet to wind an armature, but that will probably occur this winter, as I have several which need that degree of repair. Send yours up and I'll take a look at it. Hello, John.

Thank you in advance for taking the time to respond to my inquiry. I am at the end stage of the restoration of a MGB roadster. I have located, restored, and painted an original Works fiberglass hardtop as a part of this restoration. I have searched far and wide for a source for the following seals for the hardtop: i the rubber header rail seal; ii the rubber seal between the hardtop and the rear deck of the car; and iii the seals between the hardtop and the windows of the car.

Everyone seems to have the header rail. No one seems to have the other two. Any ideas or suggestions? Perhaps you have one for sale? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Greg Chait Atlanta, Georgia. They advertise heavily in the British Magazines, and I've found that they have many, many items not available here. Perhaps they have a website? Don't know. Find them through www. Rick Gregg. My experience with MGA and T type floorboards is that they are marine plywood with either five or seven plies.

It's been a long time since I've tried to cut any -- I buy them from Moss, now, as the new ones come sized correctly, they look nice, and they're chamfered and routed where they should be. I have no idea what wait I'm looking at lifting and supporting.

Can you give me a ballpark estimate of the weight? I will need the body to be supported by saw horses that will allow the chassis to move out from under the supported body and back again for storage. What height clearence do I need for the saw horses? Your help will be appreciated. Thanks Marty Schlining. While we have four MGAs at the shop in various stages of disassembly, including one coup? Let me "guess" at the clearance you'll need -- three feet on the underside of the saw horses.

We support MGA bodies all the time with saw horses, so there's no problem here. You'll need six healthy, virile men to left the body off the chassis -- all wearing gloves to protect their hands from the sharp edges.

Marty, this is the best advice I can give you on this MGA. One part at a time. I've been at this for thirty years; I've seen a lot of home restorations started and many fewer completed. Time is the most precious commodity -- don't waste it trying to remember where things go. Rebuild one part at a time. Need complete chassis measurement specs for CarBench chassis straightening mahine. Car's chassis number is GHD G.

I do have a set of measurements for the MGB, but cannot send them easily on this machine don't know how , but would be willing to fax them to you. However, I have technical seminars starting next week Wednesday and those last for three weeks -- it's combat time for me and I won't have an extra minute. But, if you send the number, I'll try to get it out to you on Monday.

Can you tell me the correct color of green for a mgb. I am going to paint it usun enamel. I believe your car is Mallard Green, which has some blue in it. This was the official green for Dear Mr Snake Even though your car was "totally" painted, there are sections, notably under the dash, that were not covered with the BRG. You have limited choices here.

The first is less expensive: find a paint shop that will go the distance for you in finding the correct code. I know that PPG, the parent of Ditzler, has a color library in Detroit or Cleveland, and they will give you an "eye match" from your old color to a modern mix. I expect other manufacturers can provide the same service.

The second is to have someone outside California get the color mixed, spray it onto a panel, and send that panel to you. Then your paint shop can match a modern mix to the older lacquer color.

Let me know. Your unsigned letter using no capitals was difficult to read. John: As much as I would like to load my '72 MGB on a flatbed and have it driven to Grand Rapids to have the true experts perform some much needed body work, at the present time, my wife simply will not allow it.

I am wondering if you have any knowledge of a reputable body shop in central Illinois or the St. Louis, Missouri area which has experience and a good reputation for restoration work on MGs. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer. Brett K. Contact John Mangles who operates a body shop in the greater St Louis area. He's known throughout the MG clubs there. John, I'm looking for a Sebring Lightweight body kit. I know that I have seen them in magazine articles. I have a '68 B-GT that would be perfect for this.

Can you help me locate one of these kits? Thanks in advance for the help, Mark L. I am sorry to be of no help whatsoever. Hi John: I have another very basic TD questions? I have looked through my meager collection of books on T Series MGs and cannot find a photo showing three blades. But the claim seems to have some merit. The arm that extends from the motor to the connecting bar, that sweeps the left and right wiper blades, has a holder that is similar to the left and right arms and seems might accommodate a center blade.

Is there suppose to be a center blade? I would like my car to be as original as possible. Stu Keen. The British owner of your local classic English shop is mistaken. The centre placed wiper motor still carried two wipers, just as the RH placed motor. However, it is possible, and some prefer, to fit three blades on the two speed motor too slow, or too fast!

I need three captive nuts for the safety catch on an aluminum MGB hood. The nuts insert into the receptacles on the hood and are twisted 90 degrees to be retained for mounting the safety catch. Please advise if you can supply them or know of anyone who can.

Thank you, R. Mr Watson! I would try to find a shop who can fit "Riv-nuts". We use these to repair the fixing points on the body which accept the fixing bolts for the top bows on the MGA and MGB. Call around to some body shops. John, I am doing some minor home restoration of my "67 B-GT.

I am repainting the "trunk" space under the rear deck. Was the factory color the yellow paint that I am seeing? My memory of the color has faded. I've seen this colour only several times.

It's very rare! I am certain that the factory did not paint a bright yellow in the spare tire area! The bodies were primed and painted at Pressed Steel and delivered to Abingdon with doors, boot, bonnet, and the tops fitted. The only place I know to find the "School Bus Yellow" yellow, is on the fan and pulley.

Wish I could offer you more! I am doing my best at catching up with a LOT!! The original fender welting on the MGA has a "T" cross section. I like the Volkswagen black T fender welting myself -- I believe it looks better in almost all color combinations than the original gray stuff.

Any other colors? Well, try a VW supplier. Of course, you can always have fender welting made, but then it is a rolled type folding material over a piece of small diameter hose or plastic filament. If you've already found something, let me know what do happened upon so the next time someone asks it won't take so long to answer! I plan on hoisting off, lifting at four points, but the box beams under the doors are seriously rusted out and I don't trust them for strength and don't want the body to clamshell on me.

I will brace across the doorways at top solidly. Door posts are in very good shape. Any thoughts about this? Remove the front and rear cockpit surround. Cut two pieces of electrical conduit or water pipe, just long enough to fit across the cockpit, front to rear. Run the threaded rod from the back, through the pipe, and secure it on both ends with nuts under the dash and under the rear "shelf".

Use washers to achieve a good fit so you don't pull the cowl or rear! Now the car is really stiff and you can lift it away without damaging the sills any further.

Achieving a good fit on the MGA body is a quest rarely completed. Remember, the doors do not lie! All fitting comes from the Pocket Hole Jig Kit Harbor Freight Version doors and the front door posts. Weld in the repair sections for the post, the inner sill, the outer sill -- as much as possible BEFORE removing the body from the frame. After the body is off, complete the welding on the inside. Twist Does the fact that your company has achieved British Motor Heritage Approval mean that Heritage body shells are available thru your company?

They are now one of two approved workshops in the United States and one of about a half dozen who are authorised to display the MG logo in North America. There are two types of Heritage Approved Specialists -- one type me can use the logos; the other type Moss, Victoria, Roadster Factory can purchase Heritage and Rover parts at a great discount.

We are a service shop and have no mail order parts -- we do sell parts from the front counter. You know that a body shell rebuild requires a fantastic amount of work! Good Luck!

Hi: I am going to put a new top on my MGB this coming week end and in the instructions it says to glue the top to the front bow. Could you tell me what type of glue to use? Thank you. Dennis Vallier. We use two types of glue in the shop: and , both made by 3M. The is the better glue, as if, by some reason, you make an error, you can peel the top away from the top bow.

Use the BTW, be certain to shake out all the old rivets from the hole on the left right? Hey John: Thank you for the fast reply and for the tip about the rivets. I'll be sure to get the glue because I'm not that good at getting it right the first time. I just put in a new windshield 5 tries but I did get finally. Thanks again! Well, we live on Buttrick, just three houses north of 28th Street. Not the 28th you know and love, but the rural one with houses and barns. Our kids go to Thornapple Elementary.

The shop is on Fulton, just a mile west of Amway. Stop by if you come back up this way! I can't decide on what color the car should be , but I want it to be an original. I was just wondering if there are any other original colors that I can look into before I make a decision.

Please write me back soon to let me know. You've got the colors down, alright. That Carmine Red is a slight derivation from Damask Red, a maroon, used from ! If you want a good looking engine compartment, my personal favorite is Inca -- it makes the underside and underbonnet areas "electric. Russet Brown is, well, an "earth" color. Leyland White is as brilliant as a refrigerator! I tell people who are considering a color change to go out to a car lot -- drive around, look at the cars, and choose a modern, color.

After all, it's YOUR car -- you can paint it what you want -- purple with pink pokadots if that's your fantasy. If you do not completely strip and repaint the underbonnet area, then the car will always look AWFUL when the bonnet is up! If you need assistance with color codes, etc, write back. Here goes: I couldn't easily print the list here, so I've sent it as an attachment in Microsoft Word. I hope you can receive and read that format!

Moss Motors has an excellent supply of the parts you'll need. My preference is to use a BRG but I want to be historically accurate. This car is not intended to be a concours car but rather a regular driver. Any recommendations? A couple of notes about the colours: British Racing Green is like the word "tree. So it is with British Racing Green.

My wife's research shows a BLVC 22 code. That New Racing Green is very dark and very nice, but it's not correct. It's your car! Paint it the colour you want. Mallard has a lot of blue in it -- it's a very nice colour! Twist, I would like to install a canvas top on my MBG. I notice in the Moss catalog the they are available for - only. What would I have to do to install one on my car? What do you think of the canvas tops?

I appreciate your help. Sincerely, Wilburt Easom. My computer was down for a while, and I got sooooo far behind. Perhaps this will help at this late date. There are three types of soft top frames -- all of which will fit all MGBs from There is the stow-away variety which separates in the middle, stows in the boot, and allows for a great amount of room in the cockpit. There is the scissors or knee action, designed by a sadist, which was fitted from about - Then, there is the wonderful Michelotti incorrectly, but commonly pronounced Mich a lotty -- instead of the correct Italian Mick a lotty which will accept the zip out top.

I prefer the vinyl tops, but those fabric tops certainly look nice! Hi, I have a 77 MGB tourer, and was wondering if you knew where to ge the suspension conversion kit to take my 77 rubber bumper and convert it to a chrome bumper MG, I can't find anywhere that has it.

Mike Smith. You wrote last April so you've probably already received answers and have decided on a course of action. My advice, at long last, is to leave the rubber bumpers on your car.

If you want a chrome bumpered car, buy one -- don't try to make one! Model: Login to Write a Review. Login to Add to Toolbox.

Review Summary This is a decent jig that's capable, but with limitations, including a drill bit that dulled quickly in our testing, creating lots of tear-out around the pocket holes. The aluminum drill guides wore away during testing, allowing for bit wobble; they are replaceable. The toggle clamp worked effectively, though it did take trial and error to get the right amount of clamping force when changing workpiece thicknesses. This jig works best when mounted to a substrate, where you bring the workpiece to the jig on a benchtop.

You do not get a driver bit with this jig.

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