I bought a well used but complete Stanley Bailey #8 jointer on eBay. Join me as I tear down and restore this tool for its future use building guitars and. • Jointer planes have a sole that ranges from 22″ up to 30″ (in wooden-bodied planes). The primary job of jointer planes is to straighten the wood, a task it excels at by virtue of its long sole (the longer the sole, the straighter the resulting work). The jointer plane is used after the fore plane but before the smoothing plane. Smoothing Planes.  I’ve found that the No. 8 works like a freight train. Once you get it started, there’s little that will stop it. This is useful when dealing with patches of tough grain. The No. 8 just snowplows through. The extra weight does come at a price: Surfacing boards can be more tiring. And you have to keep the iron sharper than you do on the No. 7. All the extra mass and width makes the No. 8 harder to push around when the iron gets a little dull. Jointer plane. Quite the same Wikipedia. Just better.  The jointer plane (also known as the try plane or trying plane) is a type of hand plane used primarily to straighten the edges of boards in the operation known as jointing. A jointer plane may also be used to flatten the face of a board. Its long length is designed to 'ride over' the undulations of an uneven surface, skimming off the peaks, gradually creating a flat surface. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the jointer plane is usually preceded by the fore plane or jack plane and followed by the smoothing plane.[1]. Jointer planes are typically 20 to 24 inches ( to mm. Working both across the grain and in all directions, the Try plane leaves a perfectly flat surface that requires only final touch up with the Smoothing plane. Second trade-off: lateral-adjustment controls. When changes have been made to the number 8 through its history, these no 8 jointer plane meaning have been classified in terms of historical reference as 'type' refinements. The no. Stanley no.

Longer planes exist, but they are often mounted on tables and not manually moved back and forth. A general rule of thumb is that a hand plane can flatten a piece of wood that is about two times its length.

What makes a jointer plane so effective in flattening long surfaces is its long Lie Nielsen Jointer Plane Review Meaning sole. The sole of a plane is the flat area that rests against the material that is being planed. You will realize after a while that many parts of a hand plane are named after parts of the human foot. The long sole of the jointer plane creates an extended base that feels the inconsistencies of the board it is moving across.

As long as the sole is true, the cutting edge of a jointer plane will do its best to create a flat surface, cutting away any excess material that does not match up with the long, flat plane that the sole is following.

There are quite a few parts of the jointer plane, but we are only going to go over the most important ones, with a few of the less important parts listed only because of their interesting names. Before starting any project , always make sure there is enough room to maneuver around the object you are working on.

Since we are working with a non-powered hand tool, safety equipment like eye protection or gloves is not necessary , but still recommended. Keep in mind that the cutting edge, the iron, is extremely sharp, so take the necessary precautions when moving your fingers around that area. Any hand plane must be adjusted before every use. Hard use, incorrect storage, or just simple jostling can change the alignment of the plane.

Some vintage or custom made jointer planes may have different methods of adjustment, but we are following basic plane adjustment ideas here. When starting your planing project, set the initial cutting depth so that it takes off very little material.

Starting out too deep can jam up the plane and cause unwanted marks on the wood surface. How to use a Jointer Plane?

During the the Stanley number 8 plane's long production period, the design of the plane barely strayed from its original design. When changes have been made to the number 8 through its history, these alterations have been classified in terms of historical reference as 'type' refinements.

This helps with the referencing of a plane design. In terms of classifying these changes for historical classification, these refinements relate to which 'Type' the plane is e. The Stanley number 8 is made with an iron body, frog, lever cap, cap iron, cutter, lateral adjuster, rear handle and front knob.

The body is constructed from grey cast iron with machined and ground sides and sole. The machining and grounding ensure the plane body is flat and true. The top-side of the plane body is finished with the black finish which is synonymous with the Stanley plane range.

The frog face is set at 45 degrees, therefore the blade is set at a 45 degree angle. The frog can be used to adjust the mouth thickness at which the shavings pass through.

This is adjusted by turning the frog adjusting screw which is located at the base of the rear of the frog below the brass blade depth adjusting wheel. Note: ensure the frog screws are loosened so the frog can move backwards and forwards when the frog adjusting screw is turned the frog screws are the two screws located in depressions on the frog bed where the blade sits.

This lever pivots side-to-side which in turn adjusts the cutter side-ways; this is useful for aligning the blade to ensure it is not skewed. The plane blade is stiffened with the use of a cap iron. The cap iron helps reduce chatter and assists in curling the shavings to prevent splintering the work-piece, particularly when working against the grain.

This notch locates with a gap in the plane blade and is controlled by an adjusting wheel usually brass found at the rear of the frog. The depth at which the blade is set is adjusted by turning the adjusting wheel, this in turn regulates the thickness of the shavings. Turning the adjusting wheel towards the frog raises the blade, and turning in the opposite direction towards the rear handle moves the blade downwards.

Note: ensure the lever cap is loosened before making adjustments to avoid damage. The plane blade and cap iron are locked in position with the lever cap. It was really too short to joint an edge accurately.

The cutter width was the same as a No. I also have one set up with a scraping insert. So when you go to plane down the tabletop, you run into lots of grain reversals. One way around this problem is to change planing directions several times while working the top. That can be tough sometimes. And with a scraper plane that is long like my No. The good news is that No. Thanks Patrick! I want to buy one premium handplane, and I want it to do the most tasks possible because I cannot afford a whole set of tools.

Which tool should I buy? The answer is to buy one of the bevel-up jack planes. Yes, there are trade-offs see the section above on the bevel-up smoothing planes , but these bevel-up tools are extraordinarily useful, versatile, adaptable and easy to use.

If you buy a couple extra irons, you can have a longish smoothing plane with a high cutting angle. And you can put a straight iron in the tool and use it for shooting the ends of boards. No other plane that I own can do all three things like the bevel-up jack planes.

The longest tools in the bench plane No 6 Jointer Plane Meaning family are designed to straighten and flatten the work. They are one of the most important tools in my kit, though many woodworkers go their entire careers without picking one up.

Some woodworkers use a No. Woodworking legend Alan Peters is said to use a No. Like my experiments with a No. I was surprised how easy it was, once I got used to the weight of the tool and balancing it on small pieces of work. In a traditional shop, the No. It is used for shooting the long edges of boards to form them into a wider panel.

And it is used for dressing the faces of boards to make accurate surfaces for joinery. I dress my stock using the machines, and then I further refine the faces and edges with a jointer plane. Sound fussy? Try it some time. Most machinery can get your boards only so flat. A jointer plane can take them one step further. I also use it to joint the edges of boards for glue-ups.

The jointer plane allows me to add a spring joint to a panel glue-up. A spring joint is where you plane the middle section of the edge a wee bit hollow. When you close up the joint with a clamp at the center, it closes the ends tightly. This allows you to use fewer clamps and keeps the ends of the joint in tension. This can be helpful with some stock because the ends of your panel will lose and gain moisture more rapidly than the center.

So the extra pressure keeps everything together when the dry season hits. Some like it straight. Some like it curved. And when I plane the faces of boards, the curved iron reduces the chance that the Transitional Jointer Plane Meaning corners of the iron will dig into the work.

But in reality, the No. There seem to be some tipping points when it comes to the sizes of planes, and the No. Some people really dislike the extra weight and width of the tool. Other woodworkers love it. Though I use a No. This is useful when dealing with patches of tough grain. The extra weight does come at a price: Surfacing boards can be more tiring. And you have to keep the iron sharper than you do on the No. All the extra mass and width makes the No.

Not so much. The bevel-up jointer plane is easier to use than its bevel-down cousin. And it is less expensive. The high center of gravity of the bevel-down jointer plane makes it easier for me to sense when the tool is tipping to the left or right. Other than that detail, the trade-offs are the same when you consider a bevel-up vs. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.

We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. It is my go to plane when jointing a long edge. It is not monstrously heavy, but it will tame the tool marks from a big box store piece of lumber in a heart beat. It can be set-up to take anything from a thick shaving to a wispy gossamer shaving.

I would encourage anyone with an inkling to make your own handplane to give this one a try. Has anyone tried that? Keep trying to find one for a bargain that is in rough enough shape I would mind modding it. I would think the narrow width would lend it to work well there. I followed Paul Sellers advice and it took about 15 minutes to reprofile and sharpen a 78 iron into a scrub plane.

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