An included miter gauge guides the jig across a router table or table saw. A pair of round plastic GlideLOCK adjusters snug its bar up for a perfect fit in the miter slot. INCRA’s page manual is thorough and well illustrated with color photographs.  Leigh includes a 3/8″ straight bit with the standard kit, so you can cut either 3/8″ or 3/4″ box joint patterns, plus many sizes of through and half-blind dovetails with other included bits. You’ll need to buy accessory bits for routing 3/32″ or 3/16″ box joints. It won’t cut other common box joint sizes like 1/4″ or 1/2″. Feb 23, - It can be used on most table saws and router tables with standard slots. Professional design, high precision, excellent workmanship! Oversized Clutch and can stay in the desired angle to meet your various needs! Is a good product for y. "Aluminum box joint jig fits for miter gauge woodworking tool. A board is placed against the flat section of the gauge and the entire assembly (miter gauge and board) is slid forward, allowing the saw blade to cut the end of the board at the prescribed angle." See allItem description. About this item. Postage, Returns & Payments. Best-selling in Other Garden Hand Tools & Equipment. See all - Best-selling in Other Garden Hand Tools & Equipment. GardenersDream GD-LITTER1 76cm Litter Picker Debris. Purchase this back issue. Start typing and press Enter to search. Attach one block to the carriage base. Use three hardwood keys to position the adjustable fence on the carriage. Butt the bottom edge of your first workpiece against the key.

Attach one block to the carriage base. Butt the second block against the first, with two pieces of paper between them. Fasten this block to the adjustable fence. The space between the carriage block and the key must be wider than your workpiece. Cut and fit a test joint. Butt the bottom edge of your first workpiece against the key.

Cutting the first socket creates a full pin at the bottom. I think box joints look best when the end pieces have full pins at the top and the bottom, so I always start with an end piece. Cut the rest of the sockets by repositioning the workpiece. The key indexes the workpiece, so the sockets are evenly spaced and the pins are all the same width.

Always make sure the end of the workpiece is firmly seated on the carriage before you cut. Cut sockets in a side piece. The setup is different, because the sides have sockets instead of pins on the top and bottom edges.

Flip the end piece over and hook it on the key. It now acts as a fence to perfectly position the side piece. Orient the side piece so its bottom edge faces the end piece. Cut the first socket. Remove the end piece and cut the remaining sockets in the side piece.

Test-fit the joint. The pins and sockets should slip together easily, without binding, but also without gaps. A dry fit that requires firm pressure is too tight; the pieces will be tough to assemble after glue is applied, because the glue causes slight swelling. Dial in a perfect fit with the micro-adjust system. First, remove the fence screws.

If the joint is too tight, remove a piece of paper from between the blocks. If the joint is too loose, add a piece. Butt the blocks back together and clamp the adjustable fence to the carriage. Drill new pilot holes and reattach the fence. Remove the clamps, cut another test joint and check the fit.

Check the socket depth. The ends of your test joint should be flush. If the sockets are too deep, the pins will protrude. Protruding pins make the joint difficult to draw tightly together for gluing. Recessed pins indicate sockets that are too shallow. Recessed pins allow glue to puddle, making cleanup after gluing more difficult.

Adjust the blade height as necessary. Beware of blow-out. Lowering the blade to make your joint flush creates a problem. When you cut the slots, the blade is likely to blow out the unsupported wood. On half of your box joints, this side will face out. This problem also occurs if you want to reuse your jig to make box joints in thinner stock. Install a subfence to prevent blowout.

Before you fasten this fence, cut an oversize slot to fit over the key. Now your jig is tuned and ready to cut perfect-fitting box joints. The jig has two parts. The carriage is attached to your miter gauge. The adjustable fence is attached to the carriage. One micro-adjust block is attached to each part.

These blocks butt together, separated by two pieces of paper. Made in USA, 3yr warranty. Use single rows of dowels or patterns in multiple rows for added strength. Sold in bags of ; use the selector below to choose from 4 popular sizes.

Includes iGaging flexible-arm magnetic base, detachable LED flashlight, and a mounting plate with hardware. Great quality construction, nice details, versatile design. Use these clamps to create customizable clamping tables and for attaching table extensions, sub fences, stop blocks, hold downs, and more to your machinery and work tables. For use with MatchFit Dovetail Clamps, sold separately.

The gauge records you blade kerf with a one-time cut, and then transfers that to your Dado Stop each time you set it to match a different material thickness. Order a couple to record your different kerf blades! T-slot in your machines? Includes 4 sets of nuts, knobs, and hardware. Miter channel not included. These unique knobs can be assembled either as female thru knobs by adding your own hex nuts or as male knobs of any thread length by using standard hex bolts.

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