If your blade is set right and parallel to your table this gauge is perfect. The link to Precision Miter Gauge System has been copied. Poor design for accuracy and longevity. Place one fender washer over a wheel bolt, add a wheel, and then add a second fender washer. These next steps will have to be adjusted to fit kreg miter fence 101 saw. Now, this peg won't actually fit into holes anymore, and the turn-to-tighten handle isn't strong enough to hold an angle.

Countersink the holes so the screw heads will sit flush when you attach the Top and Shelf to the Base in the next step. Position the Top on the Base so it is flush on each side, as shown. Then position the Shelf, and attach it, as well. Every miter saw is different in both size and shape.

These next steps will have to be adjusted to fit your saw. Place your saw on the base and center it side to side. Adjust the position front to back to where it feels comfortable for you. With a pencil, mark the location of each mounting hole in the base of the saw.

Place the saw back on the base, and then secure it with bolts and washers. We used wing nuts so we can easily remove the saw if we need to. The challenge here is that every miter saw is different—some are wider than others, and the saw tables often sit at different heights. That means you need to customize the wings.

Our design makes that possible, by letting you cut the parts, and then adjust their mounting positions to set the placement and overall height of the wings. Just be sure to take your time and measure carefully as you cut and fit your wing parts. Next, hold or clamp the Angle Brace in position. Repeat this process to create the other wing base assembly.

From a 1x6 board, cut two Fence Backs to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pilot holes in the Fence Back, as shown. Then align Fence Back with the base assembly, as shown. Repeat this to attach the other Fence Back. To provide a flat, straight fence surface, you need to align the Fence Backs with the fence on your miter saw.

To do that, first slip one wing assembly under your saw, as shown. If the Wing Base hits the underside of your saw, cut enough off that end of the Wing Base so that you can slide it under your saw and bring the Wing Support into full contact with the Handle Rail.

With that done, use a long ruler or reliable straightedge to align the Fence Back on the wing with your saw fence. Then clamp the Wing Support to the Handle Rail. Finally, cut Wing Stops to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pilot holes in two of them, and mount the Wing Stops so they fit tightly against the edges of the Wing Support, as shown.

From a 1x4 board, cut the Fence Top to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then, from a 1x6 board, cut the Fence Front to length, as well. Using a jigsaw, notch one corner of each Fence Face, as shown. Repeat for the other assembly. Mark where the Fence Top intersects the Fence Back. Now mark where the Fence Front intersects the Wing Base.

With that done, you can separate these assemblies. Repeat this to align the fence on the other side of your saw. The wings fit snug, but you may want to add a screw on either side of the Angle Brace that goes into the handle rail. If you want to remove the wings later, just remove these two screws in each wing. With that, your miter saw station is ready to use. Before you put it to use, though, you may want to wipe on a coat of oil finish, like we did.

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Scores filter All Score all. Images filter All All reviews. Show 23 Reviews. Clear All. Updating Results. Verified Reviewer. Review by Anonymous User. Was this review helpful? S Scott Verified Reviewer. Projects Completed Annually: Up to 5 projects per year. Product Recommended: No. Poor design for accuracy and longevity. Review by Scott on 28 Nov review stating Poor design for accuracy and longevity Immediately after unboxing nd initial assembly, I wqs already having trouble with the tiny plastic set screws used to eliminate the play in the miter slot.

The holes were too tight, so multiple screws were stripped just trying to drive them. They also wore out incredibly quickly, and needed to be replaced multiple times over the past couple if years of use. In addition, there is a peg that you put into holes to secure the gauge into a number of preset angles I tried twisting it with pliers with no luck, and tried tapping it out from behind to no avail.

Finally, I ended up having to pull it out with a claw hammer, mangling the head, and slightly bending the miter bar in the process. Now, this peg won't actually fit into holes anymore, and the turn-to-tighten handle isn't strong enough to hold an angle.

Unless you are super-duper delicate, the flip down portion can tilt sideways, making the cuts in accurate. As of a few minutes ago, I ended up spending more money and ordered the Incra SE. It's design eliminates all of the issues I mention above, and I will be tearing down the Kreg basically just for the t-slot bar to make something else out of the parts.

On Precision Miter Gauge System. E Eman. As I tinker with wood. I found this gauge to be accurate as well as making my processes easier an

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