Out oor Stock. There are also different size planes meant to do different jobs in addition to the jointer plane bevel up or down under up and bevel down variations. I have never had a situation where it made sense to use a low angle setup on my jointer plane. First and foremost, when buying used planes make sure that all of the parts are present and that they are in working condition. Call for repairs or replacement parts.

This style of plane positions the irons bevel down and creates the cutting angle by the irons placement in the tool. The iron is generally set at a 45 degree angle. This kind of iron is great for specific jobs and, due to its longevity, there is a large used market for them.

When it comes to a smooth finish bevel down planes are king. The higher cutting angle and chip breaker allow for the nicer finish. Going along with this a bevel down plane is far ahead of a bevel up plane when working along the grain. In addition, the blade depth adjustment knob is within finger reach while you are planing.

This means that expert planers can adjust the plane on the go and stay in their rhythm. Bevel up planes require the user to stop and adjust the blade. The grip used when working with this type of plane uses three fingers with the index finger extended.

Some users argue that this acts as a cue for the brain and allows one to more easily guide the plane. Bevel down planes work in a lot of situations; however, they do not have the jack of all trades quality that bevel up planes have. They will come up short when working on smaller surfaces, as the plane is slightly harder to control. This is due to the higher center of gravity. In addition, they lack the adaptability of other planes and will struggle with certain woods.

Like I mentioned before the chip breaker can go either way. It is a constant source of controversy and can be listed in every argument. Finally, while it is easy to make depth adjustments, adjusting the throat is a process that takes a while. Some users just keep a supply of planes with different throat openings in order to alleviate the time it takes to adjust them.

In comparison, bevel up planes can be adjusted rather quickly. There are also different size planes meant to do different jobs in addition to the bevel up and bevel down variations. The three main types of planes commonly used today are the jack, jointer, and smoothing plane. The different bevel types have positive and negative effects on each process.

First, fore planes are used to take off larger amounts of wood and begin the flattening process. This is one step in which the bevel down planes high center of gravity is an advantage.

This is because the height exaggerates any discrepancies in the wood. Next, jointer planes are used to continue smoothing the surface of the wood. This is the middle ground and most commonly found plane.

It is also a great place to use a bevel up plane especially if it is your only plane. You can get away Jointer Plane Bevel Up Or Down Image with using different irons to get different results. In contrast, the bevel down plane is more job specific at this point. Finally, smoothing planes finish the surface of the wood. Like I mentioned earlier bevel down planes get a superior finish in most smoothing situations.

However, if you are working with exotic woods or are just looking to try something different a bevel up smoothing plane can create some incredible results. While both styles of plane have their pros and Jointer Plane Bevel Up Or Down Voltage cons they both benefit from proper maintenance and tuning. Planes require very little maintenance aside from the occasional tuning; however, cleaning them can make a surprisingly large difference if you have put off the task.

Cleaning a plane is a simple task. First, simply disassemble the plane, make sure to remove every screw and knob. Then with wire brushes clean all of the threads, both inside and outside. Last, assemble the plane using light machine oil on all of the threads and adjusters.

This will result in a plane with exceptionally smooth actions for months to come. There are two main parts to tuning a plane. The first of which is the sole of the plane.

If the sole is uneven than the tool will not work as well. To test the sole slide it across medium grit sandpaper. Any spots with excessive scuffing indicates a high spot. If there are high spots than some tuning is required.

To do this lay sandpaper on a flat surface and wet sand the sole working down from medium to fine grit sandpaper. When you have completed this the sole should have a polished and smooth surface. Next, it is important to maintain the iron or the cutting blade. A sharp iron will not only make the work easier, the results will general be of higher quality too.

There are three basic steps to sharpening an iron, polishing the backside, honing the bevel, and polishing the bevel. Start by polishing the backside, non-beveled side, of the iron. Using water stones, work to a fine stone until the iron has a mirror-like quality. Next, using a honing guide and a coarse stone begin to reshape the bevel. Generally, you will have to touch up the backside again after honing. After you have finished honing you can polish the bevel in the same way as the backside working down to a fine stone until the iron is sufficiently sharp.

Lie-Nielsen Bench Planes except for the No. In addition, the construction of the frog is unique — it features a fully machined fit between frog and body, adjustable from the rear without having to remove the blade and cap.

This allows you to easily change the mouth setting from a coarse to fine cut for difficult woods or fine smoothing passes. To advance the blade, turn the adjuster nut clockwise. It is always a good idea to finish adjusting the blade by a forward adjustment to take up backlash and to prevent the blade from moving. In order to be able to adjust the blade easily, do not overtighten the lever cap screw.

To adjust the mouth opening, loosen the two locking screws at the back of the frog; then turn the middle adjuster screw. Observe the opening in front of the blade. When it is correct, set the locking screws again. You should never need to dress this surface, but if you do, use a very fine stone and be sure to maintain the angle. Iron tools are cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse.

These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. The blade is A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell and double tempered.

Our heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The thick blade provides solid chatter-free cutting. The cap is Manganese Bronze. All Bench Plane bodies are surface ground flat and square to a tolerance of. Tools with Iron bodies should be kept lightly oiled or waxed to prevent rust.

We recommend Jojoba Oil , a plant based oil product that is non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. Jojoba Oil and abrasive handblocks are available from us.

A light oiling on the threaded rod, the Brass adjuster nut and the lateral blade adjustment lever will keep them moving freely. Many people like the patina that Bronze gets with age and use, but if you wish to keep the finish bright, a little brass polish is in order.

The Cherry knob and handle are oiled and buffed with wax to produce a natural finish. Wipe with oil as desired to refresh.

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