Click here to cancel reply. There's joiners mallet 600 wrist movement when I use it. I use one for finesse work such as tapping chisels and carving tools, as well as more blunt force actions like banging a carcase together or forcing a panel flat during glue-up. I did this by sighting down the hole, comparing the lines of the top and bottom cut joiners mallet 600 cut-lines as I went. Neither mallet has ever split. You koiners see it now.

Then just the 4 to smooth the other sides. I also like to put a very heavy chamfer on all edges. This is easily done with a block plane or spokeshave. This is a very personal step so everyone has a preferred grip. It is meant to be held up close to the head unlike a hammer. But I just put a chamfer on the 4 corners where my hand connects with it.

Then chamfer the edges of the bottom and top. My preferred finish for hand tools is Boiled Linseed Oil and paste wax. One or two coats of BLO then apply a light coat of Paste Wax let it set for 20 mins or so then buff off the excess.

I have a whole video on the process here. Reply 4 years ago. Most of my tools are self-made. Beautiful mallet. I have been meaning to make one of these for my shop. You have inspired me to get to work. Also, it turns out we're neighbors I'm in poplar grove.

Verry cool! I am looking forward to seeing what you make. I have been wanting to do a Wood by Wright hang out one of these days.

By placing the dividers on the crossing of the center lines on the mallet, transferring this measurement was easy and direct. I used the combination square to mark lines based on these marks. To help define the mortise area, I used a chisel to lightly cut the start of each mortise, staying on the inside of the lines and marks. Next I verified that my auger bit will also cut within the lines of the mortise.

In order to bore holes in the mallet head, I secured it a bench top fence with clamps. This is important for a tight fit. In a mortise this size, waste has to be hogged away before chopping with a chisel can start. An auger bit makes quick work of waste removal. The first holes were bored into the top of the head.

Each time I drilled just over half way. The bottom of the auger is headed toward the center line. This was so I could follow the tapper of the handle when I chopped the mortise. The second hole broke through into the hole of the first so it is canted toward the center line even more.

This inward angle isn't critical since it is removing waste away from the center of the chop. The final walls of the mortise will be chopped and fine tuned with chisels. Since these two bore holes converge toward each other, the material of the outside walls of the mortise are still intact, ready to be chiseled away.

Next the bottom of the head is bored. In this case the angle of rake is the opposite from this procedure on the top. I set the auger bit to cut from the center axis outward.

This follows the layout of the tapered handle. Picture these two bore holes flaring away from each other. After the holes were bored and the debris removed, I started to carefully chop the waste away with a chisel. I removed the waste closest to the inside first and slowly crept closer to the layout cut lines. I took my time, flipping the head from top to bottom and vise versa until chopping these mortise cut-outs met.

After I had chopped through, I refined the squareness and taper of the mortise channel, keeping in mind that the critical part of the joint is where the top and bottom of the head meets the handle. In reality I couldn't be sure what was going on deep in the mortise. I probable cut that area inside the head wider than it needed to be. But I preserved the stock at the top and bottom mortise until the very end. These are the two places that make the joint tight.

Since I knew my top and bottom layout lines were correct, I slowly trimmed these opening so top and bottom lines were parallel to each other, getting closer and closer to the layout. I did this by sighting down the hole, comparing the lines of the top and bottom cut out cut-lines as I went. I watched and never chopped beyond the layout cuts I made in the last step.

This was not a time to rush. As I carefully made the mortise hole lines parallel, I also repeatedly checked for the fit of the handle at the top and bottom of the head. When I reached a snug fit, I tapped the handle in from the top as far as it would go.

Then I noted how wide the handle was were the mallet stopped, and determine a few shavings with a plane would help it fit closer to the top. I planed a few strokes and tried the fit, repeating this until I was satisfied. Then I removed the handle and chamfered the handle edge from where the head stops to the bottom. I rounded my handle a little more to fit my hand.

The weight feels good. Unlike most that are made from hard plastic, the head on mine is rubber on one side and metal on the other. I am really interested in seeing how the domed side of the head will work. I am looking around the garage, what I have for scrap is what I will use. Just so happens we have alot of pine fencing slats, that actually might work. Thoughts on this idea? If anything I wasted time and got plenty of practice making the basic cuts and assembling them.

Generally pine is too soft and light for a joiners mallet. It would be good for practice however. I have scaled the drawing so that the handle is four feet long, and the dimensions are shown in the diagram we will email to you.

We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips.

We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership. Thanks for any help that you can throw my way. Hi Adam. No need to taper the tenon. The tapering will happen when you drive the wedges into place.

Was wondering if shortleaf pine would be ok for the wedges. I only have one hardwood on hand, but I wanted to have a contrast.

It will be on the soft side, so it will get dinged up, but it will be beautiful and will work. For durability it would be better to use a harder wood such as maple or oak.

I made this, and it was a great, affordable way to learn by making mistakes. All the mistakes. And somehow it still came out beautifully and ready to whack stuff. Thank you for sharing! This project forced me to learn more about and adjust my bandsaw, and it was my first wedged tenon. Thank you, too, for the very detailed instructions. Remember me. Lost your password? Privacy Policy. LOG IN. Search for:.

Become A Member. Glue up the mallet head Apply glue to all mating surfaces and clamp the mallet head together. Angle cut one end of mallet head With the blade angled 2-degrees left of degrees and the small side of the tapered mortise facing you, trim one end of mallet head to a 2-degree angle. Round edges of dome Using a stationary or hand held belt sander, carefully work to smooth over all corners of the dome head, leaving a smooth hemispherical surface.

Tenon time The next steps will guide you through the process of building a tenon that will slip into the mortise that you created in the mallet head, and be locked into place by two wedges.

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